You need to get blades specifically made for STLE

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Cool, thanks!

Just got my ST Pro and I am going to buy a color DMD. If I go with the LCD, do I need to buy the clear shield and spacers, or are they only needed for the LE? Sorry for the noob question - I think the spacers aren’t required, but unsure about the clear shield. Any PRO owners who have installed the LCD? Thanks in advance.

Mine came with a clear shield.

Mine came with a clear shield and the spacers, which are needed for the pro version

Mine also included a clear shield, which I didn't realize as I had already ordered one from Pinbits. Didn't need spacers tho since I got the LED.

Mine came with shield and spacers too, when I added the $24 "shield and spacers" kit....Other option is "Display Only"

Anyway...yes, you need the shield and spacers kit to install the LCD in ST.

Thanks for all the help guys. I will order the spacers and the shield when I order the LCD for my PRO.

Oops that's right the spacers kit was an add on. It's needed for a pro using and lcd screen. The led will not require the kit

I bought my #star_trek third hand and feel that I got a pretty good deal. It was well loved, but not in bad shape. The alpha quadrant ramp had some chips from punishing shots, so I bought and installed the metal ramp protectors. As I was installing those protectors, I noticed cracks in the screw hole and that the screw was actually glued in. I put in a nut and bolt instead, but the additional stress of the bolt and the protector over time busted out the plastic as shown in the photo. I really wanted to try and fix it instead of buying a new ramp, so I bought the PlastiFix kit from here: https://www.amazon.com/Polyvance-PlastiFix-Kit-Clear/dp/B0007LTXVY

I extracted the alpha quadrant ramp (what a pain in the rear) and preformed the following:
1. I cleaned up the break with a metal file and then sandpaper and cleaned out the crack with Naptha
2. I took a mold of an unbroken ramp (oh yeah, I bought one anyway in case this turned out to be a giant debacle). The mold is super important and I probably could've created it from further up on the broken ramp instead of off of the new ramp.
3. The PlastiFix is a two part process. The first part is a dry powder that you put into the mold, the second is a chemical that you apply with a dropper or needle. That is where I learned my hard lessons. I should have tested the process somewhere else to get a feel for the materials. What I ended up doing was filling the mold with powder and using the pipette to deliver too much solvent. It ended up overflowing and washing away to where I didn't want it. I think I could've taken a slower approach and done the repair in layers and applied the fluid with the needle which delivers the fluid with a lot of precision and control. I'm not sure if the layering would work, but they give you enough product to figure it out. At the end I had a big blob of new plastic. The new plastic will yellow slightly over time.
4. I took a rasp to the plastic to get it in shape. Then I went to the metal files for the more accuracy. Then I wish I would've read the internet for polishing scratches out of plastic. I sanded from 120 grit up to 240. Then I wet sanded through 400, 800, and 1200. This left a lot of the surrounding plastic cloudy as I was trying to sand off the overflow. While the finish is smooth, it is cloudy. I read that you should finish with metal polish. The next time I tear down the game, I'll give it a try. I reinstalled everything and it seems to be holding up. Since the majority of repair is under the ramp protector there is only a couple of square inches of cloudy ramp.

I hope this helps (or encourages you to buy a replacement ramp). If you do buy a replacement ramp, remember to buy the stupid sticker that goes on it as I forgot to and I don't want to pay the extra shipping for a sticker.

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So I'm thinking about buying this on the Stern Pinball Arcade, but I have one concern. Is there any swearing on this game? I don't want to buy it if there's any swearing.

Just damnit and hell. I don’t remember anything worse than that.

Pretty sure there is swearing for Klingon battle or multiball, but it's in Klingon so you should be fine

Pinball Arcade usually turns family mode on so I'm sure you'll be fine.

Does anybody still have hope that Stern will ever get around to finishing up and releasing the final code release for Star Trek that they promised around two years ago? If I remember correctly they were referring to it as the final "polish" update to fix the bugs.

At the conclusion of Vengeance Multiball I think I occasionally hear " I'll stun your ass....."if you consider that swearing.

I've only had ST a few months so 1.61 is all I have ever had... but I'm not holding my breath. Seems like newer games need (and are getting) the love more.

What's the matter with the current software? Not challenging your opinion, just honestly curious.

I picked up a huo pro a couple days ago. What has everyone done about the ball getting stuck on the screw behind the popper? I saw a old thread on this. Any new ideas?

I'm looking to rejoin the club with a Premium or LE if anyone is looking to sell.

Thanks.

There are a few bugs in the code. The game plays great with the current rules - my favorite game.

It's not so much "stuck on the screw" as much as the ball will come to rest in the pops area. Happens on alot of games tho, Iron Man got a warning out of me the other day because I didn't want to wait for ball search.

Mine also will sometimes come to rest on the post. But I just give it a little nudge and its back to flippn!

On mine the screw was screwed all the way into the playfield so based on someone's recommendation in this thread, I unscrewed it so there is maybe 1/8 in between the bottom of the head and the playfield. Haven't had a hangup since.

Mine gets held up there too every now and then. I have not gotten around to disassembling the ramps but I would think something like adding a post or just making the rubber a little uneven would do the trick.

Pretty Sure screw/hangup issue is covered adnasium in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-star-trek-summary-of-fixes

Sweet thanks, favorited

All of my Star Trek products are 5% off w/ Pinside match with free shipping only 5hrs left in the sale..

There's a setting that will make it more kid friendly and turn the swearing off.
My favorite is "Your mother has a smooth forehead". It's not really swearing, but funny. Klingon II

I backed out the screw a couple turns and haven't had any hang ups since 30 plays.

Joined the ST pro club a week ago. Anyone else have the warp ramp opto register periodically when their shaker motor goes off?

Nope. That'd be nice tho. I could use more warp ramps!

Your opto may be slightly out of alignment causing phantom hits with vibration.

Today marks the 2 year mark with my Pro, still find its gameplay to be smooth as butter , love the layout of this game . I'm not even into star trek movies or tv, and it's a lifelong keeper for me . On the fence? , buy it , great family pin . Smoothest shooting game in my collection , IMHO.
Joey

Definitely one of the greats!

Can anyone recommend what sound settings they use with say flipper fidelity or pinball pro speakers on their star trek? I have the FF 10 inch sub kit fitted which is great! Just tweaking it now. Currently I have music volume down (+10) and sound effects up (-40)

Interested to see how you guys have it set up

For reference if anyone interested. The above setting created a lot of distortion on the speech and sound effects. I've now adjust music volume to 30 and speech volume to 0 - thus making the sound effects and callouts really stand out.

I'd highly recommend this setting. It's transformed the game, improved clarity and can play higher volume with no distortion. Love it!

Now to apply the anti rattle tape that was provided - to the glass. The 10" sub is rattling it a fair bit when I crank the volume. Hope that'll sort it

Who sells playfield back panel art for STNG? Are these all after market or did the machine come with something there originally?

STNG did not come with "behind the Borg" panel artwork.
It's after market only.
Pretty sure any "blade" vendor sells them.

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/star-trek-the-next-generation-pinpanel has one with a star field.

http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/STTNG_Page.html sells one with a borg motif.

Meant to ask a Star Trek owner, when I play on location the away team for one of the modes (think it’s the standup targets award—very dangerous I know), but it causes all lit shots on the pf to no longer appear. Sorry if I’m late to the party on this. Bug?

Not a bug. Nero away team lights the stand up targets and those are the only things you shoot for. The regular shots are not lit and don't count towards shot awards.

Just joined the Star Trek pro club and I can’t wait to start exploring.

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Welcome aboard.

welcome, you need a nice speaker panel

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i have some LASER BLACKOUT MODS in stock, again

for PREM/LE

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-le-laser-blackout-mod

and some speaker panels in about 2 weeks

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What did you use to fasten yours with, I don't see any screws. I used a lot of the sticky foam tape to hold mine on and it still fell of and wrecked the EL tape behind the Star Trek words.

i used a standard double sided mirror tape

§M or something like that with 1mm

Try this:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-COMPANY-410P-Clear-Mounting/dp/B000GQ4IVA/ref=sr_1_8

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yes, thats perfect

Thanks, I found it on ebay for $5.99 a roll with free shipping from Il. The stuff I was using could only hold 2 lbs. Now I have to get that crap off the game and the panel without messing them up, the front of the panel stains even with finger prints. What do you use to clean the front if it gets stained?

Does this count?!?

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