Installed a Bird of Prey that lights with the spinner and finished the Enterprise topper on my STLE.

https://www.facebook.com/tresvogt/videos/10105017986786222/

Put the colour update in today. Like quite a few here I’ve had the colorDMD display in for 2 and a half years. Randy and team did a fantastic job on this. As much as the blue was good it’s nice to finally see it colorised. Hires looks awesome.

Any way you can post a couple of examples? I've been really curious to see what this looks like.

Just check it out on youtube.
However, these two videos are only of the LED version. I'm still awaiting a Hi Res LCD video.
Cheers!

Added over 7 years ago: Or Scan mode.

What about the scan mode?

Well worth the money!! Easy installation took about 10 minutes.

E1A4A885-4507-4A9F-872B-04AEB6274AFE (resized).jpeg

What's the difference between LCD and LED and how does one decide which to use?

When ever someone asked which was better for ST, LCD was mentioned....That's how I decided lol. Will be here on the 23rd, will know if I chose wisely then (Also, who knows what will happen in the future, maybe movie clips can be added (wishful thinking))

LCD is basically a laptop monitor and same as displays in newer games. LED is more similar to old dot matrix displays except in color. The LCD is more square (taller) than the rectangle displays so that causes some issues on installation for certain games. For ST and similar Stern games, you end up having to mount it further back with spacers because of how Stern built things. The LED as far as I know is the exact same size and direct replacement of old displays. It's needed for some games like CV where there is no extra room for the larger LCD display.

Which looks better is based on opinion. The LCD does give you several displays options which is nice. The LED is much brighter and more contrast than the LCD. I think the LED is too bright but someone said it can be adjusted. From what I have seen, I prefer the LCD. I wish it was a little brighter but more pleasing to the eye than LED.

I prefer the LED myself for the brightness, bolder color, better viewing angles and I think the smoothing modes on the LCD displays look kinda weird. Plus they fit like OEM.

BUT... they're both really good!

It seems like the majority prefer LCD on pinside. Still on the hunt for a ST Prem. Hopefully one day I'll be a member of the club!

Anyone have a video yet of the LCD version?

It's the no dots smoothing mode. I just don't get the attraction. To me, on most games, it just looks kind of unfocused.

On my LCD I use the Dots XL mode, it's pretty nice. But I have 3 LEDs now, they're just what I like, I guess.

No video (that I have seen anyways) but there are some pix about halfway down this page:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-game-66-is-star-trek/page/3

The thing I don't like is that the blacks aren't truly black with the LED version. When the screen is mostly black it looks gray because the off leds pick up the light from the pf so they are illuminated and look gray. A Bent Plastic helps but only blocks about 75 % of the reflected light so lower 75% of the blacks look truly black while the top 25% looks gray. I have an LCD on my Met Pro and right next to it is my T3 with an LED so it's VERY easy to compare. So if you get an LED a Bent Plastic shield is a must.

Yes it can be adjusted in settings, One of the only reasons why I got the LED. If it would not have been adjustable I would not have gotten it. I have mine set to 6 and seems to be good there!

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/replacement-parts-dataeast-dmd-cable-p-35.html

I never have noticed that, but I have a similar situation with a LED on Dredd and a LCD on TZ, so I'll look for that next time I play those games.

Got my ColorDMD LED in today... super happy!

012 (resized).JPG009 (resized).JPG018 (resized).JPGHey ladies.

Hard to get good shots in game tho!

Do you have a Bent Plastic guard you could put on it to see the difference in the blacks?

Not sure if you have seen the official one but here it is.

Watch "Star Trek ColorDMD" on YouTube

I do not. I'm not that sensitive to glare I guess.

It's not about the glare, it prevents the pf lighting from reflecting onto the dmd and lighting up the off led elements which makes the blacks look gray. Try it with a piece of cardboard and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Yeah, I get what you mean, but it still doesn't really bother me that the blacks aren't "BLACK" enough... I think I do need to drop my contrast a notch tho...

Should I be able to easily backhand the beta ramp on my game?

I thought the LED would have the best black levels. I'm thinking LCD now.

On Stern ST? Yes, both ramps are backhand-able.

Can’t figure out why my right flipper acts weak sometimes. It’s gapped properly. Replaced the sleeve. Adjusted the eos and button switches. Coil checks out. The game is level.

Check that the flipper bat bushing is not binding (has proper gap between playfield and bat bushing).

Yeah, it's gotta have a little up/down play.

It would be most awesome if you could post a video link from Youtube showing the HD Upscaling and Scan Lines modes of your LCD.
Cheers!

If you're really concerned with which to buy, just get the LCD. It will do everything the LED one does and have all the extra modes too.

Can you explain Dots XL?
Thanks..

The LCD is more expensive though, but not much..

Okay, so on a DMD you get more of a glow than you will on a LCD screen so things seem to connect better, right? At the cost of a little fuzziness anyways. Well DotsXL uses larger dots to kind of simulate that. Here's a vid that runs through all the different modes:

And yeah, the price difference is fairly nominal, so again, if you think you might want HIRES or SCAN modes, just get the LCD and call it good.

Are you talking about the gap between the flipper rod and the bushing? The bushing itself gets tightened right next to the playfield doesnt it?

You don't want the crank assembly binding with the bushing.

I know this is a williams flipper assembly but it should be the same.

The original Williams instructions show the tool being used between the Crank and the Flipper Bushing. It is much easier to put the tool above the playfield, between the Flipper and the Bushing. That way the tool is far from the under playfield clutter. If it is your first time adjusting flippers, you can rubber-band the tool to the flipper so you don't have to worry about it falling off.
Flipper Gauage https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=03-8194
Most credit cards are about .7mm thick. Cut a notch in your card and make your own tool. Don't cut through the magnetic strip or the embossed numbers, if you ever want to use the card again.

**Taken from Vid's Guide on rebuilding flippers.

Below I'm showing the Gap Tool on the Flipper Bushing NOT installed in the playfield, just for clarity.

541f6d3e4ce77b3c748806c4e360242de3054738 (resized).jpg

f69972de61401eb49ae41c215d50161dd969d049 (resized).jpg

Right. The flipper is definitely gapped properly. Thanks for the detailed answer.

I use a credit card

I can do it, but certainly not as easily as Alpha. I consider it a dangerous shot and rarely try it.

I just sold my ST and have some extra mods for sale if anyone is interested. Green laser upgrade, the black out mod that makes the PF go 50% or total dark during the laser show, and the light up BOP mod.

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/modifications-bolt-on-mods-stern-kbop-p-22.html

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/modifications-bolt-on-mods-star-trek-laser-upgrade-p-40.html

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-le-laser-blackout-mod

Pm me if you're interested.

My Star Trek Pro has just started registering random warp ramp shots but while the ball is totally elsewhere on the playfield. This could be linked to the right flipper but all happened quite quickly, following noticing the first few 'false warps' during play - I cradled the ball on the right flipper and the the game kept registering warp, warp, combo etc with the score increasing again and again.

Has anyone else experienced this? And any pointers on how I'd go about diagnosing/fixing would be much appreciated.

Thank you as always Pinside!

unplug & re-plug all optical 2-pin connectors at the boards under the playfield, insure the wires are twisted (to reduce noise in the signal) as well.

I fixed this for a friend of mine. Make sure that the optos on the ramp are aligned and that there's nothing blocking the IR beam. In his case, the chase lights had become unglued and were triggering the optos.

Let me know what's wrong, as I really want some freebie warp shots.

I'd look right at the opto board under the PF tho. Probably has a flaky connector or cold solders.

Do the red and black power wires as well. That was my problem.

Interesting you say that re the 2-pin connectors on opto boards (I assume you mean EVERY 2-pin connector under the playfield?), as just yesterday I re-seated the 'two' 2-pin connectors on the trough opto boards as the game was occasionally registering the ball as having drained (when it had not). This issue seemed to be fixed from my re-seating.... could this be linked?