When I purchased STPR it had the titan rubbers on it and they still look new! Will examine my post and see if there is any bending.

Agreed. Rubber ones were not lasting long at all when I first got my ST. Put superband minis on and think only one cracked. They are harder than rubber so not sure if that will help with bent posts. Never heard of that problem.

The previous owner of my ST Pro replaced the post with a stronger one and a superband ring. I'll go take a pic...

Edit: originals in the bag, new ones in the game. Don't know what ones he used but they don't bend anymore.

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If the post is already bent and you bent it back, it needs to be replaced. Put a new post, a polyurethane post rubber... and miss less often, huh??

I changed out a pretty fresh looking white rubber set with blue titans and was honestly shocked, as those ramp entrance rubbers take a beating. They'd just been pounded to pieces.

Nope no bending on mine!

Just thought id post these pics here since the original kapsreiter for sale thread is closed. Finally installed one of his stainless back board panels with add on LED lighting. Took forever to get the LE paper from China as every time it arrived it was damaged. Thought it came up pretty good. Pity the blues aren't matching on the speakers/LE paper.

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Looks great!

I see you screwed yours on, I had to use a ton of double sided foam tape to get mine to stay on, it just didn't want to stay stuck on the game speaker panel.

Yeh, was going to tape, but then I thought what if the EL paper needs to be fixed/replaced. So I used Velcro, then screws to secure- so the whole thing can be removed. I actually like the look of the screws. I figured no one would want to go back to the original backboard, so drilling wasn't a problem. You could alwys go back to the original decal and it would go directly over the holes anyway.

Was more complicated than I thought it would be, only because of the EL part.

I always try to keep the possibility to return to the original status without visable changes like screws and holes. Therefore I used small power magnets for my Panel. Just fix them in the backside of the panel und you can "click" the panel on the backbox. To prevent the Panel from moving downwards, I Secured it with a small plastic from the inside. Not sure if necessary when you use enough magnets.

I've got silicons on mine form PSA they are a bit bigger and work well.

Now that's a different approach. I like it.

Anyone wanna share what strategies you guys are using to score a lot of points? I've dabbled with nero 3 stack, and then doing the bottom three modes after that to double up on my point opportunities on the left loop. Anyone else??

What I've been doing for big scores is (default settings for extra balls, biggest gap outlanes, tight tilt, inclined a bit more than standard) - (playing like this has made me a much better player)

Klingon 1,2,3. Klingon 2 you can get the ball on the left flipper and wait for the double colored shot to be the left ramp and you can rep it for an easy, super fast gold medal. Klingon 3 I will try and play a multiball with. This makes the left ramp doubled.

Then I'll Nero Stack 1,2,3. Nero 2 try and get the third shot bonus jackpot on the doubled left ramp! Big points!!

At this point, Ill Destroy the Drill and Save the Enterprise. If you can GAT (galactic away team under upper flipper) on these modes the left orbit is always lit and you have it doubled. If you cant GAT on DtD, the left ramp and left orbit is almost always lit so you can rip those shots at double value.

If you can make your way to kobayashi maru from here you are set. tons of medals and if you can warp ramp 9.1 into it, yay all the points!

edit: even if you don't make it thru all of this you end up with big points. if you think you can get 2-3 modes done per ball, this is a good route to take. and if you can get your warp extra ball, even better. I don't always get the extra ball from vengeance 2, but its icing if you can. All the level 1 missions you can take your sweet time and time out the shots if you want to make sure you get to KM. Space Jump you can make a shot then GAT then make the center shot and the mode is done.

Yeh, also considered the magnets, but also wanted it to be more permanent/look stock. I move the game around a bit, so didn't want to have to worry about the panel falling off. Also had the issue of the EL paper wire meaning the panel would sit exactly flush. Had to allow for a gap between the panel and the back box. I figure it looks good enough no one will want to remove it in future. Ive also got a replacement speaker decal which is a really thick material. If 100% necessary, it will sit over the top of the holes and wont show at all.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-strategies-for-the-average-player

False.

Going 3 deep permanently lights the combo light for a shot. It does not double the shot.

A true double would be much more valuable.

isn't the combo doubling the shot value, hence its doubled? i dunno, i've never tested the value. I feel like everything I've read and from talking to people its always refereed to as the doubler when you stack 3 deep. either way i score big points with that strat.

Say the left ramp is worth 1mil.
The combo in ST is 2x. So the left ramp combo'd is 2mil.

If after you completed KB1-3, and the left ramp was really doubled, that combo would be worth 4mil.

It's not. You get 2mil.

This is a common misconception but it's important to realize that it's not the case.

It makes sense to go 3 deep, because it could still be valuable. Especially if you play a very slow controlled game. But where you get most of the benefit is from having completed more modes and hopefully collected more medals before you get to the wizard modes. Basically every medal you leave on the table before you get to KM are wasted points.

But if you combo the level 3 perma lit shot it's worth more aswell tho, correct?

Nope.

Still worth normal combo'd shot. That's the burn.

If anyone is thinking of leaving the Federation and owns a LE.... please let me know!
Thanks

hmm, yeah, they flash like a combo, assumed it comboed it. That's lame.

well, I put up 352 mil on my lunch break with a variation of the strat I posted, doesn't even get on my board ha. got the warp eb but not the vengeance 2 eb.

Okay I have a question of Pro vs LE. I have a Pro version, with shaker motor, Vengeance mod, plus a few others. I have decided Star Trek won't leave my rotation so should I be selling the Pro and finding a LE? Or should I just keep the pro version and save the difference in money for mods/more pins?

No question STLE is a rare machine, you find one you buy it! Trust me its worth it I love mine, transfer the mods over to LE.

I wouldn't call it a rare machine... I'm pretty sure it holds the records as the largest number of LEs manufactured unless Star Wars beat it.
What was it 800?

It is a nice machine, Glad I bought mine... I'm really enjoying creating all the mods for the game!
Now; I just need to pick the colordmd mission adapter project back up and get it working for TPF2018.

Depends how rich you are. LE is twice the price of a pro for the exact same game. I just can't justify that.

Oh but it gots da bling like no other game.

LE is damn nice. Plus you get that LED lighting, and the kickback. But is it DOUBLE a pro? Ehh, probably not.

I have a prem and I am totally happy with it! The LE is nice but was out of my price range. The pro is kinda lame to me, with it missing the VUK and jewel inserts, and the metal ball trails. A few other things as well.

Thanks for the input, if the opportunity arises to buy a prem/LE I'll probably bring one home

Got a problem pinsiders! Start a game ball kicks out to shooter lane and is immediately fired into play field. Does not let me select a mission. Just acts like it is a ball save and fires the ball. Game plays fine other than this. It does this through all 3 balls. Does not matter if it is a one player game or two player.
This is a Star Trek prem. Kinda confusing to me. Did the ball check in diagnostics and it reads all of them properly.
Need some places to check.
Was thinking it could possibly be a closed switch on the lock bar causing this but have not checked that yet.
Thoughts and ideas are greatly appreciated.

Something is registering that you don't know about yet. Maybe the punch it button is stuck. Maybe you have it on both flippers launching the ball and you don't realize it?

Check your drop target, that was exactly what mine was doing when my drop target would automatically trigger. Rebuilt it and it fixed the issues.

I will check drop target and the punch it button once I am off work. Oh and have a beer in my hand!

I would check all switches, especially the optos. Sounds like game thinks ball is in play because a switch triggers.

Anyone else just had the flippers go dead, like a tilt, but the game doesn't go dark?

I was playing Klingon Battle, no MB, just single ball play, gave the game a shake, got a double danger, was looking for the tilt but it never came, flipped, then on my next flip, dead. But the game never went dark and it never said "tilt" on the display? Any thoughts?

Ugh. I might have worse troubles. All coils dead, f8 blown. Must have been right after a vicious Vengeance hit because I replace f8 and the Vengeance locks on and down.

Well hell, as long as I'm in there it would be nice to spiff the place up!

Anyone know where you get this decal?

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Went through and checked some switches. Prod should sit down and read the owners manual!
So what does the boxes mean in switch alerts? I took glad off and went through and changed to out of service and now the game is playing fine. What did I do???
And that decal looks very nice by the way!!

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Looks awesome, but that's not mine, and I want one, lol.

Anyone know who sells or has sold it?

But more than that, anyone know why the Vengeance is in eternal fuse blowing freefall??

Back to not working again. Push start game automatically picks the mode it starts on and proceeds to launch the ball into pf. While I am in switch test the r/flipper button does nothing but works fine during game.
Drop target seems to work fine and registers when line is broken with my finger and not any other time.
Same with the leaf switch on the punch it button. Works fine does not look out of wack and has good spacing.

Weird, hit start kicked a ball into shooter lane let me change mode once then it just stayed in that selection. Would not let me change modes with either flipper.
Starting to look like a loose wire possibly?

Let's get a new movie going with Quentin Tarantino. He's got the right ideas:

https://trekmovie.com/2017/09/23/quentin-tarantino-is-open-to-directing-a-star-trek-movie-and-he-has-some-ideas/

Okay, honestly, I am into it. Cumberbatch - Khan was terrible in Into Darkness, and they could have gotten someone like Pedro Pascal to play the Mantalban - Kahn and have him be really ruthless.

I'm not sure what you mean that you "took glad off" or what you are changing to out of service. If you are disabling features/switches then that might get the game playing but not 100%. This is a picture of the switch matrix from my pro. The boxes mean that the switch is closed. Look in the manual and it will show you what switch belongs to each dot in the switch matrix. If you look in the manual, you can see that the 4 optos in the trough are all triggered because all 4 balls are loaded. Yours has a plus sign for one of the trough switches. I'm not sure what that means but probably due to you changing settings for those switches. I would get all switches back in service and working normally.

In the switch matrix, go through every switch in the game and make sure a square lights up in the switch matrix when pressed (or light beam interrupted for optos). Also bang on the playfield in different places and see if any optos go off. I had one opto get flakey - worked fine in testing but triggered on vibrations. Also note that the coils are not going to fire in switch testing. You are only testing switches. You can test coils in another part of the menu but that isn't the issue with your game. If a wire is off or a switch is bad, it will not respond or stay closed. Once you can determine which switches are not working correctly it gets a lot easier figuring out how to fix them.

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I went thru the coil test . I noticed there is a on my STARTREKLE a (kick back) Flash test all other flasers tested ok. But (Kick Back Flash noting happened . I sprained my wrist in cast. Can't lift up playfield to inspect . Does this flasher exist ? If so where ? Snap a photo if you can . Thanks a million, Peace

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Flash Kick Back #21 is behind/under the Vengeance kicker.

It does not light up as I stated . I was with the coin door open looking for it lower left out lane as that is where in my mind the kick back is on most pinball machines . The Rescue area . Thank you (gunstarhero) . Do I have to take apart the Top Of the Vengeance Mech. To get to the flasher ? I hope not . Or is It under the playflied 89 or 906 . Sorry to be a pain in the ass . Manual is (MIA)