I may have to do something with that shuttle. On mine I did an Enterprise complete with lightup nacelles.

I've also backlit the ladies and the amoeba.
Rand

More pictures here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/52968060@N00/albums/72157605111405030

I laser cut my own plastics to do that.
If you look at the Flickr album you can see the work.
Oh here's the worklog:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=80041

Incidentally; I have considered lighting the arches myself. I should couldn't put a drill to my arch plastics to get a good mount location.
One of these days; I do intend to get back to that mod.

Am I the only one that want to line the ramps with UV LEDs so the Pink accents really pop?

I haven't - but I'm about 90% sure you'll eliminate most of the noise if you simply "space" the fan away from the back of the backbox.
On my machine the fan is bolted to the very small oblong hole in the back of the machine. This means there are mms of space between the fan blade and solid wood. 60% of surface area of the fan is "blocked" by the wood.

Computer Case modding 101 says you need to put some distance between the cutting area of the fan blade and the rear of the case. This will reduce your noise by a massive margin.

One of these days; I'm going to design a simple Spacer bracket and give it a shot.

I forget what I did to adjust mine... I think I probably didn't do anything tbh.
Interested in what others think.

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/replacement-parts-dataeast-dmd-cable-p-35.html

http://www.cometpinball.com/mobile/Category.aspx?id=1838 would be my guess. Slow Fade in #47 maybe what you need.

My game is still wrapped from TPF'18... but I did look at the manual and it's #555 I think.
I ordered some of the faders from Comet pinball; but I'm unsure when I'll get the game unwrapped and find the time to try out the faders.

A ball save would be a good addition.

The center dilithium crystals are #555 wedges in thumbscrew bases.

Having some issues with my Right flipper on the game as seen during TPF. I posted about the issue here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/de-solid-state-flipper-right-flipper-holds-hold-voltage

I'd be nice to have a whole new set of modes.. but not sure that's possible.

For ball save; it might be a good idea for stdm from vuk drains. Unsure if that makes a game more or less tourney friendly tho.
Maybe have a "method" for lighting extra ball instead of just random. It may just be me not knowing the rules well enough.
Super Pops?

@chadh,
I was thinking while playing tonight that a fire VUK during ball search would be a good idea.
I've had a intermittent VUK switch that wasn't sensitive enough for every ball; so the ball would get stuck behind the VUK. Slapping the side of my cabinet usually makes the switch register and puts the ball in play.

Maybe not fire it every time; but every other time. IE first time; no VUK... if more no more switches before the next ball search time out; fire the VUK.

I haven't seen too many 128x16 DMD "replacements" so hopefully you can fix your existing DMD.

AS far as ramp; That looks correct to me - but it's not something I can quickly grab a picture of due to "in flight" projects.

I'd check the ramp mechanism to see if there is binding or some other reason for it to be stuck up.

I'm holding out hope for a ColorDMD setup. No, Dmod has not shared any plans for one yet.

Eeek... rubber, "magic smoke" (electronic parts), or burning coils?
My DEST had a big problem burning out "laser kick" coils... eventually; I traced it (after lots of debug) to a old/bad connector on the PSU board. Hopefully you aren't seeing the same thing.

Does it solder to the same lug in the background of your picture?

I'm not sure tbh. you should be able to investigate the lug to see if the wire snapped from vibration fatigue.
Get a flash light and inspect that lug to see if there are wire bits still in place.

I'm pretty sure the manual has an alignment procedure.
I've aligned my transporters a couple of times using that procedure.

I think the fact that you don't have the wood lane guides on it... is one of the reasons it's warping.

My Star_Trek: Mirror Universe PF had a little natural warp to it... I solved that by CNCing some lane guides out of 1/2" aluminum bar.

As far as value; I'm not sure there is a lot of value given the damage... as CPU did do a run of repo PFs a few years ago.
As a trekkie, myself, I just hold on to it.

Thanks for posting blacklight pictures... I had a feeling the PF was BL compatible... and this just proved it. ;D

There is information scattered around the internet... but AFAIK; no one has every built a kit. I have some info in my blog:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=673
I've considered it... but there hasn't been a lot of interest - so I haven't prioritized it among my other projects.

Brett, I think you can select on the that coil by changing the repeat for that coil.
Regardless; it sounds like you either have a continuity problem between the driver transistor and the coil... or the driver transistor is bad.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Solenoid_Issues
might be of use.

See page 28 of the manual titled "select Coil". I can't copy paste from the PDF but here's a PNG:
DE ST Manual pp28 - coil test

Announcing a soft launch of a new product I've been working on for the Data East Star Trek machine and is an embellishment for the Data East Star Trek machines to go on top of the "Red Alert" flashers:
Condition: Red (Alert)
This Data East kit comes with 4 "Red Alert" Decals for 7.49USD w/ free shipping if ordered alone:
Data East (example install)
Data East (incandescent flasher bulb)

These are in stock now and available for immediate shipping.
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/modifications-bolt-on-mods-alert-flasher-decals-p-46.html

I have only needed to remove the lockdown bar to remove my glass. Somethings wrong with your launch button assembly.

Contact CPR (https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/star-trek-de-2/)
Given KevinCPR announcement of their new business model; maybe they could just print you those two.

Although; you could do the same as you're asking... buy the set; use the two you need and sell the other as a partial set or individually.

absolutely. I have mine set to free play.
I seem to recall it's embedded in one of the expanded settings/adjustments.

Edit: See page 14 of manual.
Free play is Expanded Adjustments #32

Digikey?
Although; GPE has them at 50/c each.

I don't understand the question.
TIP122 is a TIP122... they are all speced the same. It's only when you need to substitute a part because it's no longer available do you need to worry about the specs of the new part.

exactly what Timerider said. Scroll down.
They are OOS on the TIP122s so you'll have to try another vendor like digikey or I'm sure someone else has a good suggestion.

Are they drop in compatible?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/can-i-use-a-tip102-for-a-tip122
seems to think so.

https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/TIP100-D.PDF
vs
https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/TIP120-D.PDF
seems to indicate they are pin compatible. So I agree that a 102 should work as a drop in replacement for a TIP122 as even the hFE and VCE(sat) seems to be equivalent.

Sadly tho; TIP102s are also OoS at GPE.

Is there a reason you didn't suggest the actual DEST cliffies?
http://www.passionforpinball.com/st25.htm

I put them on my DEST; and it's been perfectly happy since... Untold TPFs and it still working well.

Ah. Didn't realize that

check the manual.
I believe the locking button needs to be in a certain position (up or down) when you press the enter button.
One way enters diag mode; the other stats mode.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2356/Data_East_1991_Star_Trek_English_Manual_with_schematics.pdf
pp13 but after reading it... it's not clear to me at all.

pp21 is better. See "Entering Diagnostics". fwd/reverse is set to reverse (down) and press the STEP switch.

Cool. Sorry you missed Nimoy.

I got mine done before Nimoy passed:
but I am also missing Kelly and Dohan.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/52968060@N00/8133455475/sizes/c/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/52968060@N00/29690570092/sizes/c/

There during game.
Gone during multiball.
Back when you drain from multiball.

Pretty sure that enterprise plastic goes above the giant aemoba.

No. I used a RunPress Enterprise
which was more work; but readily available and had hull windows.

RunPress Enterprise

I've done mine piecemeal over the course of several years. Replacing mine with mainly comet for the switched inserts - especially the crystals. I still have my GI as incandescent because I think it looks more natural for a game of this era.

The board is actually pretty simple. IIRC it's a transistor array chip on the output.
As a result; it's entirely possible one of the transistors is bad in the chip.

Good work. I'm not a fan of the ending credits being so long... but it's your game and I'm still impressed.

Honestly; however, long it takes.
Chad - I'm assuming is a hobbyist with a day job... and maybe a family.
He probably does it for fun... so; it'll take however long he wants it to take. That said; it may never be available as he may never finish it.

Seriously; keep an eye out... and if the pinball gods smile on you an update will become available one day.

I didn't mean my comment to sound like a teacher exasperated by a challenging student.

Just being clear with the expectations - as I see them.

If you want to see how it's done... go follow applejuice 's in the RFM thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this
Honestly; he's better than Stern.

::bounces up and down in seat like a school kid::

Did you not intend to add a ball save timer? Or did I just miss it in the list?

What about a SDTM timer from the scoop eject option?

I thought it was my game... I NEVER see that light lit. Thought it was just bad - but haven't taken the time to debug it.

No.
Let me say this... I want the text to match the pf. If it's scanners it should say scanners. If it's crystals; it should say crystals.
It would bug me to no end (now that you pointed it out) if the dmd said one thing and the PF said another.

How hard is it to code both and have an option to set which to display?

That said; I'm pretty damn sure Scotty says "Crystals." So everything should say Crystals.

am I oversimplifying this?
I thought it was just a matter of matching the text on the PF.
How would the game rules change if it's only the text that's different?

Obviously; I'm missing something. Unsure how the game play changes if the text on the art is different.
I'm not seeing the connection from art to code.

I'm pretty sure the machines aren't electrically different between the two art packages. So I fail to see how the code would be different. Unless you're making it different in the update based upon a specific art package.

You're in the code ... I'm not; so maybe you have a better understanding what's going on.

My game has "lite Crystals".
I'm actually always hitting that scoop. Because I suck enough that hitting the drop targets is hard.

Something about the geometry that makes it hard to hit those drops with any accuracy. IE I can hit one usually; but not the one that's up.

Not possible (same flipper).
The diverter (Klingon metal symbol) on the ramp alternates the lanes physically. It's not under computer control.

Wrong universe. Vader is in Star Wars.

Looks to be in fair shape. Congrats.

Is there a exploded view of the crystal assembly?
IE how easy is it to get one of existing crystals out for "silicon mold making"?
I do not want to take mine apart; but I'm curious if its something that could be done easily for examination.
I'm also curious if it can be 3D printed with SLA type printers.

Celebrating Star Trek: Picard on CBS All Access -

A Star_Trek sale

The drop targets decals are available from Marco Pinball. Good luck with your search.

I'm interested... But have to verify I have the right eproms

ChadH
I have: CPU ROM (27C512)
For the Display ROM (27C010 or 27C1001)… I only have a M27C4001 which is a 4X larger chip. I looked at the schematic for the display rom; and the pinouts between the two are compatible. The only issues are that A18 and A17 are held high by the display board.
This means I'll have to quadruple the binary image to make sure the display rom works.

If you want me to give it a shot; send me a PM.

NDA.
Worth the wait.

Incase anyone wants to put a nice label on your new eproms:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=887
delables (resized).jpg

I'm personally waiting for Dmod (ColorDMD) to add support for 128x16 displays... but I get it; if you need a display because it's missing, you don't have a lot of options righ tnow.

Dmod just announce 128x16 support with a lofty goal of having Star Trek DE colored by the end of 2020.
I'm seriously tempted to buy now and may just do it.

http://shop.colordmd.com/h-led-128x16-replacement-display-sigma/

Agreed. What new frames did you add/change in v3.0?
If you can specifically list them... maybe someone on Dmod 's team can ensure those frames are colored.

That's disappointing. I assume it isn't this:
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/bumper-caps/9157/pop-bumper-cap-wide-clear-545-5199
but the more standard cap (I haven't looked closely at mine).

So it's this style:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/550-5027-33
but as clear; right?

"unobtainium" seems like the current trend.
I contacted my "team" of suppliers... Pinball.Center only carries the longer sided ones.

I contacted "Steve Young"s Pinball Resource - and they informed me the original part number was:
545-5225-01
and that Stern later substituted 545-5119-01 which had the longer side.

Has anyone tried the longer sides on a game?

If ya'll haven't already gotten the HLED 128x16s color dmd for this game... you probably should.

Game 107 -- ?Star Trek - Data East?
https://www.facebook.com/colordmd/posts/4157733650922259

I know it works with Chad's code... as that is how my machine was configured during the entire beta test on my machine.

CPR has everything for this game, I think

The larger enterprise is probably a gift to fill out a blank area.
Can't speak for the larger long piece either.

Have you repinned the large 6x6 ?cn6? Connector on the power supply board?

I had the same problem which I chased for years and it turned out to be that connector.

on my game; that only helped for a game or two.
One of the pins was so fatigued with age; that it lost it's springiness and had dark corrosion problems on both the pin and it's mating female connector.
Reseating the connector is only a short term fix.

I looked at the schematics. CN1 is the connector of interest.
It's a 12 pin connector (4x3)
This connector supplies all raw power to the VRMs on the power board.

I added details on this connector to pinwiki years ago:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Burned_Connectors

You might also check for bad connectors on CN6 since it supplies power to the Sound Card.

Sounds like a heat weakened CN1 on the power board. See post 653 above.

" This is to inform you that the part(s) referenced in this notice will be made obsolete
due to low demand and worn tooling " -- https://www.mouser.com/PCN/Molex_CustomerLetter_10728956.pdf
I guess someone is going to have to find an alternate part...

Molex 03-09-2121
would be a good start... but you're probably going to have to replace the wafer connector with a wire to connector configuration so that it can be used off board.
Shadily; I only have the one PSU board in my DEST... and hopefully the connector I have will last another 10years.

Cpr has them I believe.

Pretty sure they did at one point. I'm about 90% sure I have one in my storage shed for the eventual restore I will do on mine.
My assumption is they were now available via their digital process.
That said; google did not turn up any links... so maybe Its the STNG I'm remembering.

I'm pretty sure I have at least two different Star Trek PFs from CPR.
One is for sure Bally... so the other is either STNG or DE Star Trek.
Its in storage; so can't go confirm.

I will Never, Ever purchase a Mirco Peice of S... PF for any of my games.

Welcome, enjoy your stay... and avoid wearing Red while playing.

I thought there was a very clear set of theory of operation for the transporter in the manual.
There are no coils; only a motor and some switches.
Have you checked the manual?

Ah. my bad. I didn't see "ramp" before.
Carry on then.

Manual pp46.
Knocker shows
Banded side "Kathode"
Yellow-Violet +50VDC

pasted_image (resized).png

Do you not have a manual? If not; I'm sure ipdb.org has a copy in PDF form.

Looks like my statement is still true.
Same manual page (pp46).
pasted_image (resized).png

I doubt it. Not aware of any options for ColorDMD. Dmod

Somethings bad in hv PSU?
What does the manual say? .5 amp sounds low. But I may be remembering incorrectly

Or solve it by not needing high voltage at all.
https://shop.colordmd.com/h-led-128x16-replacement-display-for-star-trek-25th-anniversary-pinball-machine/

Sounds like bad power delivery in addition to something wong with the hv section.
Iirc, my game has a badly toasted connector at the power transformer.

I'd wager the hv caps need replacing on your board.

exactly. The scorch marks on the mating connector confirms this.

Expect to need to replace the top "sockets" 10, 11, and 12 in the housing.
Pin 1's socket on the board looks to be non-springy due to age. You should plan on having the board repairer replace that entire CN1 on the board with a new connector.

John

Connectors age.
The metal in the female socket probably lost it's spring forces ... Which led to increased resistance which led to increased heat which then more lost of connection strength.

Eweh. A homepin product.

Sounds like either a bad solder joint on the CPU board, or a bad pia on the CPU board

Had one go bad at tpf one year... @boryguard troubleshot the board, replaced the pia, and returning it and has worked fine since

I haven't. Sounds like either a shorted motor drive transistor.... or a bad switch in the assembly.

I haven't finished mine. Been just busy with other things.
Maybe one day...

I did years ago with my CO2 laser then promptly put it on backwards.
I'm not sure if they are available retail - curious myself.

Mine says "Launch Ball" but unsure of the font.
Photo torpedo is a mod; I think.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5410-02
is available so... I now question if later production games made the change as New In Box.

there is a special chase light board. But mine is missing it as well.
I'm pretty sure the manual had some details on the chase light board and it's cabling... but It's been ages since I looked at it.