Has anyone here replaced their dmd with the led display for $299 shown below in the for sale boxes? If so, is it any different or it's just a replacement part? I saw on the first page someone had a blue display.

Flipper help requested---
If I hold my left flipper button in, when the ball ejects from the scanner shoot-out and hits the flipper, it goes dead. Any helpful info would be great, thanks!

That is the downfall of the TY-FFASI system... Data East would later upgrade the flippers
and put back the End-of-Stroke switch, so as the ball hits back the flippers the switch
would re-trip the +50 circuit. Make sure the holding voltage is solid.

Finally finished up rebuilding and repairing the ST25 in my garage. What a nightmare of locked on transistors. The light circuit had 4 locked on transistors that made the resistors so hot from the voltage being 15 volts, that is melted the solder on the board so the resistors could be pulled right out.

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Anyone else have an inconsistent kickout? For example, one time mine will fire it out to the left flipper, the next time right down the middle and then the time after that it dribbles out. Visually, nothing looked out of place or loose. It's almost like I can hear the difference when the kickout fires.

Yes, and I rebuilt the VUK. Does it less, but still sometimes STDM.

yes I have blue - works lovely.

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Someone thought it was a good idea to spray paint the back of the translite lightly with some black paint.

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Actually, I've thought of doing something similar.
I got a translate off eBay, and was thinking it was a reproduction with a very thin "masking" layer. No matter what type of bulbs are utilized... incandescent or LED's... they really show thru. (like NeilMcRae's in the above post).
I was thinking of adding another layer, similar to the translucent wax paper behind the "Transporter" graphic... to soften the bulb "hot spots".

Guys
Do new Black stern legs fit this machine?

Nell

This is my basement. Do you know what this means?

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Looking good!!

To everyone who’s posted on here about an inconsistent VUK, I found this post from awhile back. Mine is very inconsistent, shoots right down the middle between the flippers over half the time. I will definitely be messing with those three screws later on today hopefully!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-de-st25-vuk

Hey there, I know your post was from last year but do you remember where you bought them? A couple of the nine crystals on my machine need to be replaced, color changing leds sound awesome!

http://www.cometpinball.com/mobile/Category.aspx?id=1838 would be my guess. Slow Fade in #47 maybe what you need.

Exciting ! Hope you are keeping well Chad

Awesome. I need to get in this club!

I want to order these, can anyone confirm this? I now know the difference between wedge and bayonet lol but I’m thinking the regular white leds in the pin are fast blinking

What changes would you all like to see with DE Star Trek code? Any known bugs?

My game is still wrapped from TPF'18... but I did look at the manual and it's #555 I think.
I ordered some of the faders from Comet pinball; but I'm unsure when I'll get the game unwrapped and find the time to try out the faders.

A ball save would be a good addition.

The center dilithium crystals are #555 wedges in thumbscrew bases.

Having some issues with my Right flipper on the game as seen during TPF. I posted about the issue here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/de-solid-state-flipper-right-flipper-holds-hold-voltage

For sure Ball Save will happen. Probably will incorporate the Shields Up/Shields Down that is barely used at the start of Multiball. There’s even a Shields Up animation which I think is unused (the Shields Down animation is seen during Attract Mode but never during gameplay).

I'd be nice to have a whole new set of modes.. but not sure that's possible.

For ball save; it might be a good idea for stdm from vuk drains. Unsure if that makes a game more or less tourney friendly tho.
Maybe have a "method" for lighting extra ball instead of just random. It may just be me not knowing the rules well enough.
Super Pops?

It would be great to have a lot more to do in this game. The ball save would be great.

You can light the extra ball with four or five (can’t remember lol) consecutive times around each ramp but it has to be left, right, left, right or right, left, right, left.

Also, the diverter on the center ramp that determines which down ramp the ball goes to has to be functioning properly. Sometimes mine gets hung up and the ball will go to the wrong down ramp just as I’m about to light the extra ball

@chadh,
I was thinking while playing tonight that a fire VUK during ball search would be a good idea.
I've had a intermittent VUK switch that wasn't sensitive enough for every ball; so the ball would get stuck behind the VUK. Slapping the side of my cabinet usually makes the switch register and puts the ball in play.

Maybe not fire it every time; but every other time. IE first time; no VUK... if more no more switches before the next ball search time out; fire the VUK.

I just checked and the VUK (Scoop) is fired during Ball Search. In fact, it is the first coil to fire in that sequence.

We just picked up this pin for our brewery's taproom in Minneapolis, and everybody's hooked – even people who have never played before. Looking forward to the creativity of @ChadH. A couple smaller details we've noticed - it shoots if you don't really quickly, which has been an issue for us when someone tries to get a beer in the middle of a four player game and it suddenly plunges. We wish there was more to the bonus: we max out at 10x 500k a ton.

We found a couple Kirk and Spock action figures that are mid-transport. Perfect!

Hmmm, mine seems like it will keep going and going until the button is finally pressed. I wonder if there is some sort of setting behind this.

Must be a setting, as the one we have doesn't launch the ball until you press the launch button. We reset ours to factory default before working on it.

I dont think there is any auto-shooting. How long before yours auto-shoots? I am wondering if a random faulty switch is triggering which is causing the game to plunge the ball. Can you go into switch test mode and see if anything is triggering occasionally?

Done.

Is anyone looking to sell their game? I'm in Birmingham, AL and would like somewhere within driving distance.

I was just playing and was thinking there should be a bonus of some sort for destroying all ten ships in video mode

I checked the diagnostics, and switch 29 was malfunctioning. Luckily I had an extra from last week's MSF repair, so i swapped them out. We still get the auto-launch, and it's consistent: 3 cycles of enemy ships flying by, and then it lauches. Strangely, after swapping out the switch, it now keeps the skill shot animation going, whereas before it didn't.

I don't see a setting for it in the manual.

My dudes, I found a game not 5 days later! I'm in the club!!! Only one more Star Trek game to go (Stern). Picked up this beaut for a really good price just down the street from my house!

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Nice pick up!! This was my holy grail game I wanted since playing it way back in ‘94, finally got a nice one last year. Welcome to the club

Good news and bad news. It fires up and will play a game but the outhole switch seems to be non-functional. Also the DMD is garbled. I've read I should replace R95 and see if that helps. If not, any recommendations on where to get a new DMD? the left ramp is stuck in the up position and there is a rather large gap between the two sections of the left ramp. Does anyone have any hi-res pictures of how this is supposed to look?

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I haven't seen too many 128x16 DMD "replacements" so hopefully you can fix your existing DMD.

AS far as ramp; That looks correct to me - but it's not something I can quickly grab a picture of due to "in flight" projects.

I'd check the ramp mechanism to see if there is binding or some other reason for it to be stuck up.

Does anyone have the green or white DMD in their game? I thought about just picking up one of those instead of busting my ass on a repair.

Boston pinball sells a sweet blue one

I'm holding out hope for a ColorDMD setup. No, Dmod has not shared any plans for one yet.

First off, thanks for all your help so far! I was able to sort out the issue with the left ramp. The switch that tells the game whether the ramp was up or down wasn't being actuated because it was on the wrong side of the bar that pressed it down. Works well now!

Can anyone snag a quick picture of the outhole switch? Mine is definitely not right and therefore not working correctly. It needs to be resoldered, but I'm not quite sure which lead to use.

Also, will I need to buy non-ghosting LEDs or can I get away with the cheapies?

Our ramp gets stuck up sometimes. It seems to be just a loose screw that blocks the mechanism. It usually fixes itself after a few cycles, or after we lift the table and put it back down. The scanner won't shoot out if it's missing a piece that goes on the end. Ours snapped in half, so we have a new one on order.

i stripped down ours last fall, took a ton of pics. Hope it helps.

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I did a thing! I put my DIY skills to the test and repaired my first DMD. I snipped the infamous R95 from the board and (sloppily) soldered a new resistor in there. You know what they say - the bigger the glob the better the job!

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Nice work!! Looks perfect now!

My dmd is still missing two lines. I bought a silver pen to mess around with but haven’t had time to try it yet.

I was putting LEDs in my game (color matched inserts with white GI, so don't worry) and I started to smell a burning rubber. I didn't see any smoke, but it was definitely pronounced. Any hot spots I should be looking for?

Eeek... rubber, "magic smoke" (electronic parts), or burning coils?
My DEST had a big problem burning out "laser kick" coils... eventually; I traced it (after lots of debug) to a old/bad connector on the PSU board. Hopefully you aren't seeing the same thing.

Also make sure your light matrix is working properly. The game I got in the fall had a few locked on transistors in the light matrix, sending 15 volts and higher to the 6 volt LEDs, smoked a couple before I realized what was happening.

Good question. I touched all the coils with my hand and none of them felt hot. I had coil burn problem with my STTNG before I did the tieback mod. This smelled very similar but was *much* more faint.

Was is smoking from the backbox? Mine smelled more like it was coming from the playfield/cabinet.