Have you repinned the large 6x6 ?cn6? Connector on the power supply board?

I had the same problem which I chased for years and it turned out to be that connector.

I'm having a similar issue where the sounds will eventually get off kilter. I can't even exactly figure out what's going wrong, but it's definitely all wrong. I'll try to reseat that connector. Thank you, Zitt.

on my game; that only helped for a game or two.
One of the pins was so fatigued with age; that it lost it's springiness and had dark corrosion problems on both the pin and it's mating female connector.
Reseating the connector is only a short term fix.

I looked at the schematics. CN1 is the connector of interest.
It's a 12 pin connector (4x3)
This connector supplies all raw power to the VRMs on the power board.

I added details on this connector to pinwiki years ago:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Burned_Connectors

You might also check for bad connectors on CN6 since it supplies power to the Sound Card.

Ditch the Rottendog power supply and get a Xpin or a refurbed original DE power supply.

Update: I've subbed in several sound boards with no improvement. Since I was losing 12v on the rottendog, I replaced the 12v regulator (7812). No longer losing 12v, but still not fixed.

Basically, if I hit multiple thumper bumpers rapidly, usually along with some other targets in rapid succession, the sound goes completely off, then returns with heavy distortion and/or weird noises and tones. Never happens during normal game play. Only during super heavy play with multiple targets being hit rapidly. Sound normalizes at next ball usually and always at next game.

So, still possibly the power supply board or maybe mpu? Pretty much ruled out sound board. No diodes broken or missing under playfield either.

Have you resented the sound board ribbon cable at the CPU board? CPU board can be a potential issue. I have seen more ribbon cable issues than CPU board issues.

Do you have any battery damage on your CPU board?

Sounds like a heat weakened CN1 on the power board. See post 653 above.

I'm going to look at CN1 more closely. I checked and Mouser has the replacement parts mentioned on Pinwiki as no longer available.

" This is to inform you that the part(s) referenced in this notice will be made obsolete
due to low demand and worn tooling " -- https://www.mouser.com/PCN/Molex_CustomerLetter_10728956.pdf
I guess someone is going to have to find an alternate part...

Molex 03-09-2121
would be a good start... but you're probably going to have to replace the wafer connector with a wire to connector configuration so that it can be used off board.
Shadily; I only have the one PSU board in my DEST... and hopefully the connector I have will last another 10years.

Another update: I looked at CN1 on the power supply very carefully. There are no signs of discoloration and the plug fits tightly to the board. Replaced the ribbon cable from the sound board to the MPU. No change. No battery damage on MPU although it, like the power supply, is a Rottendog.
Basically, the sound goes off and then starts playing weird noises when I have a multiball going and I manually hit any one of the thumper bumpers multiple times rapidly. It does not matter if I hold all of the balls in my hand and use my fingers to hit the thumper bumpers. Also, the sound does NOT go off when I hit the thumper bumpers during one ball play. Only during multiball, even if I am holding the balls in my hand and scoring with my fingers.
Further, I do not see and broken diodes on the thumper bumper coils or any of the trough switches! This occurs with two different sound boards and two different power supplies, and two different audio ribbon cables! This is driving me nuts!! Any suggestions welcomed!

Just out of curiosity, lets just say someone I know, not saying who flipped the ROM so that the notch was on the other side, what potential harm could be done other than it wont boot up even after placing back correctly.

You fried the rom, but shouldn't harm anything else. Get a new rom and you should be ok

Hi, I‘m working on my ST 25th restoration . Is there a playfield overlay existing for this pin?
Greetings from Germany
Roland

So what's the consensus on the Laser kick, should it be directed at the Scanner or the Doomsday shot? Mine's pretty consistent with the Scanner but I feel that's not right.

I'm recently replaced the old faded transporter picture with a new more vibrant one. Problem is I did not take good close up pictures of what it looked like before I started taking it apart or during the different steps to remove everything. I put everything back the way it came apart...I think, but its just not right. I have seen some videos of the mechanism working but they are to blurry to tell whats going on. I really could use some clear, detailed pictures of one of these being put back together. Any help, ideas, Anything would be appreciated.

Thanx

Do you have a picture of your setup as it is right now? It would make it easier to know what pictures you need for corrections.

OK, The first Pic is of the back glass only. The second is with both pieces installed. The third one is definitely off. Every video i watch shows the glass closer to the motor. and the last picture is the back glass mounting bracket on the right of the assembly. I know I completely messed those all up and am hoping its an easy fix.

20210518_205154 (resized).jpg

20210518_205150 (resized).jpg

20210518_205146 (resized).jpg

20210518_204853 (resized).jpg

And it put the pics backwards from how I had them organized. But You get it

Does the front (top) frame move freely? If not loosen the screws that hold the sliding frame, the springs should keep it against the eccentric on the motor which slides it so the crew disappear/reappear.

It does move freely

One more thing to mention. While trying to play the game, the motor for the transporter constantly turns.

Does your game still have the sliders on the bottom rail that the plastic sits on?

I only ask because mine did not, and I had to get a bit creative to over come this.

I had to extend the springs out further to the right, and remove the black plastic tabs up top to get it to work consistently. The game was also very particular about how much you torque the bolts down on the upper and lower rails. Just snug is enough, any more it tends to bind up on mine.

Check your switches on right right, if it is running non stop, it is not finding home.

Strange, because it should be sitting against the cam then.
20210519_084211 (resized).jpg

Your bottom switch looks jammed under the cam.
Inked28c5e707d4427d55cad805ccf38574a94a674f10_LI (resized).jpg

It's not. The Pic above that one is the same close up. As far as sliders in the bottom rail, there where 3 pieces in the top and 3 on the bottom. If something is missing it wasn't there when I bought the machine. The transporter worked perfectly until I took it apart to replace the picture. Are the switches supposed to contact the outer plastic on the end or should the be making contact someplace else?

No.

See posts 206 & 209 in this thread for additional info & the operation service bulletin.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-25th-data-east-club/page/5#post-4609144

Okay, if that's not it then it also looks like they are up against the edge of the glass?

I can do a video call with you if you want to look at mine.

I appreciate that but I stopped Pinballz and worked through it with their tech. Its moving working but it still needs to be calibrated. I have the manual and Ill fine tune it.

Cool, so do you mind saying what happened?

I came down to operator error. I was unclear how this thing worked. Once I understood why it wasn't working I was able to fix it. Lesson learned here is to always take pictures. I'm new to working on these machine. I'm learning a lot but I expect a lot more rookie mistakes.

Just installed mine today, LOVE it!!

Let's see some gameplay footage!

Anyone know where I can get a Data East Star Trek 25th playfield, mine is in bad shape, looks like someone used to marker to try and touch it up?

Thanks

Cpr has them I believe.

I wish, they don't make any yet, having issues getting inserts I heard.

Pretty sure they did at one point. I'm about 90% sure I have one in my storage shed for the eventual restore I will do on mine.
My assumption is they were now available via their digital process.
That said; google did not turn up any links... so maybe Its the STNG I'm remembering.

They said at one point all products would be offered digitally, so it may be worth reaching out just to see. They could also have one or two on backstock they may part with.

Nope. It was on their CPR preorder silkscreen list, where they were gathering interest before the digital printing was launched. No telling how long it will be until it is finally released.

Also, i have never seen STTNG ever on CPR site. Perhaps, you are thinking of Mirco, as they have released that title.

I'm pretty sure I have at least two different Star Trek PFs from CPR.
One is for sure Bally... so the other is either STNG or DE Star Trek.
Its in storage; so can't go confirm.

I will Never, Ever purchase a Mirco Peice of S... PF for any of my games.

For sure CPR did Bally Star Trek. No doubt, as they are in stock now. CPR is currently shipping DE Star Trek plastic sets, but never recalled a playfield for that title other than 'collecting interest'.

Say that it wasn't ever shipped as silkscreened, but I can see a digital printed one coming soon, same with other DE titles that they were collecting interest on back then.

If you do have a CPR DE Star Trek playfield, it will be interesting to know if it is labeled gold, silver, or bronze. That would identify it as a silkscreened playfield. If there is nothing, then it should be a digital print.

So my game is starting to give off the distinct ozone smell of cooking electronics when its on for a half hour or more. Any advice on common culprits getting hot before i start touch testing things? Game plays fine, no locked on coils or flashers as far as I can tell.

I also recently started experiencing this but instantly when I turn the game on.

Orders one of these floor mats a while ago to place in front of my machine. A few different titles to choose from as well.

9945E1F8-BCB7-4EE5-A64C-B81E9CFEC38A (resized).jpeg

I have an incomplete set of plastics for Star Trek 25th Anniversary if anyone is looking....

*sigh* I turned my game on recently and started smelling smoke in the backbox. Any common places to look? No obvious signs of damage.

Power supply board, old caps are common issue.

Could be a transistor shorted and a coil is bad. Do all your coils work?

It started to smell immediately on turning the game on. Newish Rottendog power supply - should have gone with X-Pin, but I didn't know they existed when I bought the new one.