Toronto, ON
Clean that corrosion all the way to the left side. From the pics, the green mask has bubbles under it. There is a thread on using toilet bowl cleaner to get rid of the corrosion.
(Topic ID: 176453)
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Star Gazer
Stern Electronics, 1980
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Quoted from Fytr:2. Left flipper seems okay, but pressing the right flipper button instantly shuts the game down, with no flipper movement. After rebooting I only get 6 dings from the AllTek and nothing but GI. I assume the fuse is toast, haven't had a chance to look. Bought a circuit breaker from Digikey and will craft a fuse mount for it before investigating further.
The wire in the housing of J3-12 should be re-done on the rectifier. 43v for flippers
Quoted from Fytr:Hi, can you clarify what you mean by "redone"? I assume you mean re-pinned?
Merry xmas, btw!
Correct and while your at it take a look at the rest of the wires and see if they need the same. J3 -1&2 could go in separate housings.
Quoted from Fytr:Okay, further inspection of the flipper coil shows that neither appears to be wired correctly.
I've redone them to match this diagram from Vids flipper rebuild guide thread.Now I have 43v at each coil lug and the F4 fuse blows as soon as the flipper button is pressed.
On a brighter note, I've updated the SDB with new capacitors, and removed a failed transistor for the knocker coil. I also implemented the best practice improvements noted in the pinwiki for this board.I also received my new molex crimper today and used it to separate out of the ground wires that had been doubled up on J3 on the rectifier board, and replace a couple of other pins that were not 100%. I had originally doubled up the ground wires as I didn't have enough .156" pins for all of them on hand - a temporary solution to try to get the game playing while I waited for parts to arrive.
Great news on the pins, rectifier and SDB. Keep up the good work.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Fytr:Thanks! I haven't done a lot of board troubleshooting (been lucky that way) but am trying to learn as much as I can now.
Looking at the schematics I see that Q13 drives the top-line segment of the display. What I don't understand is why only the Player 3 display is affected? If Q13 was failing wouldn't it affect all the displays?
Q13 on the #3 display. Each display has it's on own Q13
Quoted from Fytr:Looking at the schematics again (I'm using Seawitch ones none for Star Gazer) it would be Q8 as it's a 7-digit display, not 6 (Q13 would be for six).?
In any case, looking in the backbox I found this...Once I re-pinned that broken wire the top segments on Player 3 started showing up.
Seawitch does say Q8, I was working of an Elektra manual....should have know better!
1 week later
For the chips get them from Dave Astill in Ontario https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/astill
Get some ROM's too while your at it with Freeplay and Oliver's changes (http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html)
He might even have the regulator
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Tempe, AZ
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