I lost some pics due to a computer glitch. So I have to improvise.
I saw the copper tape usage in a thread and liked the way it looked ( I think it was one of Vid's threads ). This is the Quicksilver I am starting. The copper tape is used to feed power to all feature lights. I did this on my Big Game and have gotten good results. The advantage is you can remove any extra wiring from the harness. And you screw your feature lights tight to the copper tape and only have to solder the individual feature wire to each lamp socket tab. And if you need to change bulbs, instead of having to bend the socket backwards, now you can just unscrew it.
Some may value this, or not.
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This is the GI wiring for Quicksilver. When using the copper tape, it is easier to use fully insulated red and white GI wire instead of trying to insulate any points where bare GI wire would cross over the copper tape.
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This is Star Gazer. The wiring is complete. You can see the copper tape buried under everything. Shawn at TCP included enough wiring that I was able to roll it up and tie wrap it. Every wire has enough extra wire wrapped up so sometime in the future, if extra wire is needed, then clip some tie wraps and get the length you need to reach that switch etc.
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Shawn sent out this Star Gazer play field harness in 3 groups.
( I like to build things that can be disassembled easily. That comes from repairing too many car parts that were supposed to thrown away ).
#1) There was a separate harness for the feature lights. This is the harness that is closest to the play field. Following Shawn's instructions, I wired the feature lights first.
# 2) Next was the switch harness. It is now living in between harness #1 and harness #3.
#3) This is the solenoids harness. It sits on top of the stack. The pops and drops are Molex-ed. So if needed, all I would need to do is disconnect the wire at the slings and slo-blo fuse holder, cut a few tie wraps and peel the entire solenoids back to freely expose the switch harness. If you wish to unscrew all of the switches, then the switch harness can be peeled back to expose the lamps harness.
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Frying a solenoid coil and blowing fuses is no fun. Neither is trying to find the offending coil. Real quick, I learned to hate having to cut the yellow wires at the slo-blo fuse to see where the problem lies. So I double fused the solenoids. This way, if a slo-blo blows it is only going be be from one bank of wires. With Star Gazer, I have the left drop, left sling, top pop, center pop, and the top drop wired to one yellow wire. And I have the out hole, right sling, right drop, and right drop on the other yellow wire.
This will make it easier to trouble shoot just by pulling each fuse instead of cutting wire and re-soldering. To help with traceability, I have all right hand side yellow wire marked with small red tie wraps and the left side marked chartreuse/green tie wraps.
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Is all of this overkill? That could be argued as affirmative quite easily. Hopefully, the pin will never give me problems and I will just be able to play with abandon. However, at some time in the future, whoever owns this pin might benefit with this wiring set up and will thank "that guy" for building it like this.
I'm not all that great with electronics but I do like running wiring. Overkill or not, I had a good time wiring this up.