(Topic ID: 275633)

Star Explorer - The "Dont Get No Respect" Club


By clodpole

29 days ago



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  • 52 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by dudemo
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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There are 52 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 29 days ago

Hey, I've got "real" pinball tables, and I understand why lots of people hate Star Explorer and its 2-flippers-at-a-time cousins, but the games are cheap, light and still fun. For little kids, they are approachable and easy to learn. Sort of an entry drug for pinball! Anyway, am I the only one (besides Ken Layton) who cares?

#2 28 days ago

Very possibly yes.
There’s one in my town listed for the low price of $1200! Maybe for $50 I’d buy it

#3 28 days ago

$1200!

What I like about the little guy is that he's cheap (well, should be), simple and accessible. Seems like he has a role for beginner players as well as for fixer/restorers.

#4 27 days ago

Yes, this is a simple electronic game that would be a good learning experience for those new to pinball repair. Easy, lightweight cabinet that is small and easy to transport. Playfield is lightweight and easy to lift.

#5 27 days ago

I don’t hate star explorer for what it is. My girlfriend grew up with one jn her house and she talks about what a big deal it was dad Brought it home. It still worked even last year when her step mom gave it to a neighbor kid which is cool.

I do hate that star explorer is on every Craigslist in every state city and town and I just get sick of seeing it.

#6 27 days ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

I do hate that star explorer is on every Craigslist in every state city and town and I just get sick of seeing it.

Marijuana is legal here in Washington, but most smokers buy the illegally-grown "skunk" version, 'cause it's cheap. I get the same sick feeling every time I smell that smell. It gives me the urge to ask "why don't you at least smoke the good stuff?!". So, I accept what you say.

I have a Flash, too, and there are a lot of those around. Still, it's fun!

#7 27 days ago

Since this may prove to be more of a memento for people restoring Star Explorers in future years, I'm just going to document what I did to get my machine to work better. Not as a "how to", but rather "how I did".

First problem was that the left flipper was dragging and had made a narrow crescent scuff in the playfield paint. That was improved by disassembling the flipper connector bracket, cleaning everything, reversing the 2 bushings to get the better one on the left, and installing nylon washers on the flipper shafts. The new washers are 3 times as tall as the original metal washers and boost the flippers about 1/8" higher - just enough to not scuff while still low enough to contact the ball solidly.IMG_1549 (resized).JPG

Next, the plunger bracket is molded so that it has a tiny inclination to the left. As a result, the plunger tip scuffs on the sharp metal edge of the ball trough and cuts the rubber. Here's what that looks like:
IMG_1564 (resized).JPGIMG_1561 (resized).JPGIMG_1562 (resized).JPG

My next post will be regarding what I did to solve that.

#8 26 days ago

Did you stick a washer under one side of the shooter housing to correct for the leftward angle?

#9 26 days ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

Did you stick a washer under one side of the shooter housing to correct for the leftward angle?

More of a gasket, cut from inner tube (seen from behind, so backwards in the photo). The smaller one turned out to be enough:

IMG_1569 (resized).JPGIMG_1570 (resized).JPG
#10 26 days ago

Ahh Star Explorer, a game you don't hear mentioned much here on Pinside! I actually have 2 flyers for this game. One is made by Sentinel (1978) and is a Magnavox company. I remember having a Magnavox T.V but I haven't seen any Magnavox products in years. The flyer also shows a Flying Aces, Demo Derby and CB Charlie, the days of CB radios, convoy, truckers, the bandit movies etc. The weight on these was listed as 67.5 pounds.

https://nypinball.com/flyers/star-explorer-2/

But this one is also interesting, the Australian version made by Rapid, for the "family that plays together"

https://nypinball.com/flyers/star-explorer/

#11 26 days ago

Those are really neat flyers. The family that plays together has a very nice looking mom!

As for the 67.5 pounds total weight, my wife and I found that to be refreshing after coercing 3 "real" machines, including a tank of an EM, into our house.

#12 25 days ago

I have a Sentinel Flying Aces, and to be honest I love the thing. I can't use a full size cabinet because I'm a full time wheelchair user. This sucks for a few reasons. I just don't have the room upstairs for a full size cabinet, and I would have to modify the cabinet's legs to play it. However, the Sentinel Flying Aces is small enough to fit in my "game room" and short enough for me to play it in a wheelchair!!

First photo was taken by my wife. My wife bought it off a friend for like $50 because it was broken and had sat in their garage for years. She and a friend of hers brought it home and snuck it into the basement where she knew I wouldn't see it and that my daughter wouldn't see it. Later that night, she couldn't stand it any longer and told me about it. I immediately had my daughter help my wife get it upstairs.

Second photo is first play. At first, it worked. I played maybe 2 games on it and the display was messed up. The display worked mostly at first. After a few plays, the flipper buttons quit working and the start button quit working. Mr. Ken Layton's excellent information allowed me to track down that it was the transistors for the drivers and pre-drivers. I know a little bit about PCB soldering, but I'm not the greatest at it. Without a secondary board, I decided to replace these transistors.

The third photo is me with the driver TIP102 and pre-driver transistors out of the PCB successfully without lifting or ruining traces!

The fourth photo is after I got the new transistors soldered in. I was certainly proud of myself at this point but hesitant to call it solved until I plugged it in and it worked. So I plugged it in and tested it out. It worked!! The display was now basically tanked, so I sent it out to a local electronics repair shop who charged me a whopping $6 each to replace the IC chips, plus the cost of the IC chips. Ken was not wrong when he said that these IC chips are kind of hard to find. Unfortunately I don't have photos of this either.

I ordered a rubber kit and a new ball. While that was shipping out, I decided I would take care of the playfield. The metal rings around the bop bumpers had started lifting, so I grabbed my heat gun and used that to heat the original glue on them. They didn't use glue, they used some stupid kind of like, double sided tape. So, not wanting to remove that (the metal is FLIMSY!!) I decided to use some two-part epoxy to glue it down. Being very careful, I mixed up a small amount and smeared it on the metal ring I already removed. I then placed it back down and held it down for a few minutes. Then I stuck a bunch of small heavy objects on it to hold it down over night. It worked, but that takes forever. So I got out the good old Super Glue. Where it had pulled up, I glued it back down carefully. Don't use a lot of it. But that worked amazingly well, actually.

Next, I decided to tackle the slingshot pads. These hadn't pulled as much, so I glued down what had. The contacts looked tarnished for the rollover switches so I went at them with piece of emery cloth and that cleaned them up. I thought the rings around the bumpers and the pads for the slingshots were pretty clean, but when I played the game both the slingshots and most of the bumpers were kind of spotty. So, I went at those with some emery cloth too. Next I wiped them down with some electrical cleaner on a rag. Then, I went hard at the playfield with a vacuum and some mild temperature water. I felt pretty confident that this was OK because most of the clearcoat on my playfield was in good shape. Also, I didn't use a boatload of water. Just enough to dampen a rag.

Next I went out and got some good carnuba wax. I waxed that thing like 4 times, each time rubbing excess wax off. The playfield shines like new now. Ok, time to give this thing a try with all the cleaning I did. And guess what? Holy crap, the slingshots and bumpers work EVERY time now!! The wax had the added benefit of giving the ball a bit less "traction" making it easier to get the weak flippers to play the game.

I've added a cheap "spring saver" I made. I'll be honest, I saw this mod elsewhere on the forums and the other user did a much better mod, but I used his to modify mine in almost the same way. The other user here on the boards did this mod so that about 30% of the time, the saver would bounce the ball back into the field of play and save it from just being a dead ball. I figured that because this game has no other purpose than to bounce the ball off as many things as possible before play ends, having a massive dead zone and a 30% chance of save isn't enough. So I held a ball so that about 50% of the lane passages will be dead and 50% will be saved. Eventually I'll get a nicer one and replace it. But at least it keeps the ball in play more.

I don't mind the dual flipper action, because I'll be honest... I was one of those pinball players that flipped both flippers all the time anyway lol. What does bother me is how weak they are. I saw on the PinWiki that Ken suggests that Sentinel/Phillips/Wonder Wizard should have used Gottlieb 2" flat top flippers. Has anyone done this? Is it a direct replacement? Can I seriously just buy the flat-top white 2" flippers, the thin shoe/shaft, and the panhead screws and get genuine flipper action? I'd assume you also get more power because the flipper's would no longer be offset? I've taken some measurements and doing the 2" flipper conversion will add 1/8" to the ball drain size. Can anyone confirm more flipper power with 2" flippers and was the mod worth doing?

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#13 25 days ago

Hey, thanks for the detailed story! One of the many cool things about these games is that you don't risk ruining a $1000 game by trying repairs or mods for the first time.

#14 25 days ago

I think my eventual plan is to convert this to a virtual pinball machine. But I wanted the feel of a real cabinet, and this kind of has it. Plus I wanted my kiddo to feel a "real" cabinet before I toss her onto virtual pinball.

I know the Bally home models (Fireball, Evil Knievel, etc..) get no love either and I spent entirely too long looking for a cheap fixer-upper with no luck. When my wife showed me this I was super happy. Since electronic parts are scarce, I intend to play the crap out of this thing until I can't fix it easily and buy the parts to convert it to virtual while I play it.

The playfield and backglass are going to make cool looking wall art.

#15 25 days ago

The late 70's were a hot time for these home model pins, here's a few more flyers I dug up, any of these ring a bell?

Aspen (Brunswick/Briarwood): https://nypinball.com/flyers/aspen/

Big Top (Wico): https://nypinball.com/flyers/big-top-3/

Captain Fantastic (Bally): https://nypinball.com/flyers/captain-fantastic-3/

Fireball (Bally): https://nypinball.com/flyers/fireball/

Galaxy Ranger (Bally): https://nypinball.com/flyers/galaxy-ranger/

Rodeo (Brunswick/Briarwood): https://nypinball.com/flyers/rodeo/

Strike (Zaccaria): https://nypinball.com/flyers/strike/

Super Star (Brunswick/Briarwood): https://nypinball.com/flyers/super-star/

Multi-game flyer (Brunswick/Briarwood): https://nypinball.com/flyers/brunswick-home-pinball/

#16 25 days ago
Quoted from NYP:

The late 70's were a hot time for these home model pins, here's a few more flyers I dug up, any of these ring a bell?
Aspen (Brunswick/Briarwood): https://nypinball.com/flyers/aspen/
Big Top (Wico): https://nypinball.com/flyers/big-top-3/
Captain Fantastic (Bally): https://nypinball.com/flyers/captain-fantastic-3/
Fireball (Bally): https://nypinball.com/flyers/fireball/
Galaxy Ranger (Bally): https://nypinball.com/flyers/galaxy-ranger/
Rodeo (Brunswick/Briarwood): https://nypinball.com/flyers/rodeo/
Strike (Zaccaria): https://nypinball.com/flyers/strike/
Super Star (Brunswick/Briarwood): https://nypinball.com/flyers/super-star/
Multi-game flyer (Brunswick/Briarwood): https://nypinball.com/flyers/brunswick-home-pinball/

Yes. I've been looking for a Bally Fireball home machine for a long time now. I'd also take a Galaxy Ranger or an Evil Knievel too. Unfortunately, they're harder to find than Star Explorer or Flying Aces and quite expensive when you do find them.

#17 25 days ago

I give up on the display. Whomever wrote the PinWiki (I suspect Mr. Layton did, and his knowledge on this game is phenomenal.) was correct when they said the following:

"IC102, IC103, IC104 = 4433 led digit driver chips (obsolete and very hard to find)"

They are. The people I have near me that do board repair said they probably couldn't source these again and that they probably wouldn't last long. They didn't lie. The display worked correctly for exactly a week and now it is doing some funny things again.

Furthermore, the rest of the machine is acting up now too. The three images show what the display looks like when you push the "Start" button, when you let go of the "Start" button, and after a quick game.

The first picture is pushing start. The second picture is right after letting go. The third picture is after a very quick game.

The machine will kick out a ball immediately after turning it on. It never used to do this and would wait until start is pushed. It will kick the ball out when being turned off as well. Finally there is some pretty bad static coming from the speaker when the game isn't being played. It is playable, though.

I've already begun sourcing virtual pinball parts. I don't expect this machine to last long without sourcing spare parts and I can't find any. Easier to source screens and PC parts. I'll let someone know when the parts I have are available. I don't suspect it will take long to build a virtual cabinet. I'll mainly only have the boards because I'd like to keep the playfield as wall art, but that may change later.

Edit I'll probably just off the whole thing cheap. Like pay for shipping cheap. About the only screen you can get in the cabinet is like 20" because the playfield is tiny.

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#18 25 days ago

Forgot where I saw it, but there was a tutorial on how to make the flippers work independently. I believe you hit either button and both flippers fire. Might be worth looking into....

#19 23 days ago

Hey dudemo,

I'm sorry your repairs didn't "stick". My Star Explorer does some of the same behaviors - static over speaker, ball kicked out on power on, no ball kick out for 2nd and 3rd balls in a game. However, my display seems OK.

What was it you fixed with the transistor replacements?

...and tslayer71, yeah, independent flippers would make the game play more like a full-on pinball machine. In my case, the game is for a 2-year-old granddaughter, whenever she gets big enough to care. At first, I think the dual flipper action will make it easier for her to play, so I'm leaving this one as-is.

1 week later
#20 14 days ago

Hmmm... assuming I'm not the only one attending to this thread (remember Dr. Johnny Fever broadcasting to 4 or 5 people on WKRP?), I wonder if you have any suggestions regarding my little machine's current problems:

1) It counts balls (I think using IC 106 near the top of the display board, and at upper left on the schematic) correctly, but it pauses :15 - :20 between balls.

2) It activates the pop bumpers correctly, but doesn't score 100 points when it should.

Schematic is located at: https://www.ipdb.org/files/5642/Sentinel_Inc_Wonder_Wizard_CB_Charlie_Owners_Manual.pdf

#21 11 days ago

Has anyone actually been able to source the LED driver chips? Or a suitable replacement? 4433's don't exist and no replacement is made that I am aware of.

I have seen here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ic-cross-reference#post-5737658

Of course, by Ken, that 4093 is IC101 and 4013 is IC105. Is it safe to assume I can just replace all of the display IC's with these?

KenLayton can you at least confirm that I'm wasting my time?

#22 11 days ago

Have a star explorer sitting in the garage, perhaps with all this info I should try to get it going again.
Got it from a garage sale 3 years ago for 25.00

#23 11 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Have a star explorer sitting in the garage, perhaps with all this info I should try to get it going again.
Got it from a garage sale 3 years ago for 25.00

If you choose not to do so, I will happily buy it off you and pay shipping. Edit: oh boy, you're quite a ways away

#24 10 days ago
Quoted from dudemo:

Has anyone actually been able to source the LED driver chips? Or a suitable replacement? 4433's don't exist and no replacement is made that I am aware of.
I have seen here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ic-cross-reference#post-5737658
Of course, by Ken, that 4093 is IC101 and 4013 is IC105. Is it safe to assume I can just replace all of the display IC's with these?
KenLayton can you at least confirm that I'm wasting my time?

I can't even find a datasheet on the 4433 chips let alone the finding the chips themselves.

IC101 is definitely a 4093 chip and IC105 is a 4013. Don't try to use those in place of the 4433 or you'll let out the magic smoke.

#25 10 days ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

I can't even find a datasheet on the 4433 chips let alone the finding the chips themselves.
IC101 is definitely a 4093 chip and IC105 is a 4013. Don't try to use those in place of the 4433 or you'll let out the magic smoke.

I hate magic smoke. Thanks, Ken. I guess I will just deal with a bad display.

#26 7 days ago

With Ken's help (he's the patron saint of these little games), I'm down to 2 major problems that I know of - my game doesn't score 100s and it takes :10 - :20 to register a ball in the outhole and kick it out or increment the ball count. We've been working on the second problem first.

Capacitor C103 and diodes D102, D103 and D104 are associated with the ICs which do ball count and outhole kicker. Diode D104 (a tiny one!) passes voltage in both directions. So, maybe there's one component I have to replace - that is if such diodes are identifiable and available. It appears to be marked 161 -1 ITT or 181 -1 ITT.
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#27 7 days ago

I managed to find a person in Detroit that has a Flying Aces. It's in pretty rough shape. The flippers don't work, some lights are dead, and the plexiglass is broken. I am ok with all of that because as far as I can tell, the display works as it is supposed to.

I didn't get a great price for it, but it was a fair one considering what is wrong with it. I can fix the flippers and have new plexiglass made, but I think I'm just going to pull the working display board from it and put it in mine.

The first photo is in the daylight. The second photo is in the dark. Them double zero's look mighty purdy.

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#28 6 days ago

Congratulations! Now you have a store of spare parts as well!

#29 6 days ago

Yes. I'd like to send the bad display board to a friend I know who does electronic component testing. He can actually repair IC chips. It might not be cheap to fix the bad board, but hopefully I can get some more info from him otherwise.

The crummy part is that he lives in Seattle and is away on work for a few weeks.

#30 6 days ago

"Away from Seattle" is a good situation at the moment.

#31 6 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

With Ken's help (he's the patron saint of these little games), I'm down to 2 major problems that I know of - my game doesn't score 100s and it takes :10 - :20 to register a ball in the outhole and kick it out or increment the ball count. We've been working on the second problem first.
Capacitor C103 and diodes D102, D103 and D104 are associated with the ICs which do ball count and outhole kicker. Diode D104 (a tiny one!) passes voltage in both directions. So, maybe there's one component I have to replace - that is if such diodes are identifiable and available. It appears to be marked 161 -1 ITT or 181 -1 ITT.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Type 181-1 diode appears to be a common 1N4148 diode.

#32 6 days ago

I have some used ones on a Williams driver board; for expediency I'm gonna give one a try.

Wonder_Wizard_schematic.pdf
#33 6 days ago

Sounds like you're comfortable doing component level pcb repair. If you're stuck consider this....

http://coinopcauldron.com/

#34 6 days ago

I FREAKING WORKS!!!!

I got the new machine home and in the living room. The wife wasn't happy that I just dropped it in the living room but after a 6 hour drive and moving the unit, Tim and I were toasted. I set to work removing the back cabinet and pulling the display card.

Wife almost had supper done, so we all say down and had some grub. Afterwords, Tim went into the game room and pulled apart my cabinet. I put the new display board in and ran a test. It shows some funky numbers when you turn it on, but as soon as you push start the numbers go to double aughts. We had the plexiglass off, so I grabbed the ball and started rolling it across the 2,000 points mark. It racked up 2k points and I was already happy. So I did that for a while until I got all the digits to light up. Then I tested the ball display LEDs and the game over LED.

100% working. Isn't she beautiful? I'll get it all out back together and get more photos up. Bonus: the side rails and legs were in better shape than mine!

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#35 6 days ago

Congratulations!, and thanks for the photo. You can see diode D104 near the top center of your photo. Yours is the normal golden color; mine is blue and smaller. The two are equivalent spec-wise, but it's nice for me to see yours in place on the board.

Anyway, following on the above posts, I removed D104 from my display board and replaced it with one from a Williams driver board. No improvement.

New question: do diodes have to removed from the circuit before being tested? Both my D104 diode and the 1N4148 from the Williams read .6V in the forward direction and 1.4V in the reverse direction in circuit, but both read 0V reverse direction out of circuit. Same for the other 6 on the Williams board.

#36 6 days ago

Here it is on first turn on. After pushing start. 2nd ball lit. Game over/Tilt lit.

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#37 5 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Congratulations!, and thanks for the photo. You can see diode D104 near the top center of your photo. Yours is the normal golden color; mine is blue and smaller. The two are equivalent spec-wise, but it's nice for me to see yours in place on the board.
Anyway, following on the above posts, I removed D104 from my display board and replaced it with one from a Williams driver board. No improvement.
New question: do diodes have to removed from the circuit before being tested? Both my D104 diode and the 1N4148 from the Williams read .6V in the forward direction and 1.4V in the reverse direction in circuit, but both read 0V reverse direction out of circuit. Same for the other 6 on the Williams board.

Yes, one leg of the diode needs to be removed from the circuit.

There’s one of these listed about 2 hours from me for like $100. If someone’s wants to sponsor me I’ll grab it for you.

Also, dudemo there was a company back in the 90s who custom modified machines for wheelchair users! There was a thread about it a while ago.

You could definitely put out a WTB for one.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wheelchair-accessible-super-mario-bros

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-super-mario-bros-13

#38 5 days ago

I sourced a datasheet on the display IC chips. I also sourced a direct replacement for them. They're made by the same company, however I am positive a 3rd party such as Samsung, Qualcomm, or NEC make a compatible IC chip, we just have to find one.

Here is the datasheet (PDF): http://www.bg-electronics.de/datenblaetter/Schaltkreise/4426.pdf

Here is a direct replacement, made by the same company: amazon.com link »

I know I am not the only one looking for this info, so I'm getting it out there as public knowledge for all of you. Download the datasheet. Source 3rd party chips. We need them!

#39 5 days ago

Hey Dudemo, now that you've had 2 display boards in your machine, you can give me a clue or two. Did your machine kick out balls and increment ball count the same with both boards? And in each case, right away or after a delay?

#40 5 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Hey Dudemo, now that you've had 2 display boards in your machine, you can give me a clue or two. Did your machine kick out balls and increment ball count the same with both boards? And in each case, right away or after a delay?

As soon as the machine was turned on, it would kick a ball out. Even though the "Start" button was not pressed. It did this with both display boards.

When you sunk a ball and it was time for ball 2 play, it would hold in the ball chute for about a second before the kick out coil would engage and the ball would be kicked out into the plunger. As soon as the kick out coil engaged, the LED on the display board would switch. It did this with both display boards.

Now, nothing works. Bop coils are dead. Eject hole is dead. Flippers are dead. It keeps blowing the 2.1A circuit breaker. If I push that breaker, bop coils and slingshots work, flippers work, and the eject hole kicks for about 2 seconds. Then the circuit breaker pops again and nothing works. No matter what, it always scores.

Things I've tried:

- Replacing the good display board with my original display board. Nothing changes.

- Replacing my audio board with the donor card. Static went away, but the breaker still pops.

- Pulling the driver board and testing my solder skills. They pass, all drivers and pre-drivers are working.

- Pulling the donor motherboard and power supply and swapping it into my machine. It's worse. The breaker doesn't pop, but that's only because I suspect it is permanently broken. Regardless, the machine performed worse. It had no backglass lights, the flippers, bumpers, slingshots, and coils were all dead no matter what I did to it.

I believe I have a combination of bad boards that are not allowing me to play. I suspect BR104. Regardless, I know a few guys who can do board rebuilds pretty cheaply so that is my next plan.

#41 4 days ago

1st - thanks for the info.

2nd - your game was working, but now it just trips the circuit breaker and shuts off? But you didn't do or change anything?

#42 4 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

1st - thanks for the info.
2nd - your game was working, but now it just trips the circuit breaker and shuts off? But you didn't do or change anything?

No, I played a few games, set a high score, and shut it off to see if it retained that high score. When I turned it back ok, the eject coil kicked, the kick out coil kicked, and both held for about 3 seconds. Then the breaker popped and nothing works.

If I hold the breaker, the eject and kick out coil engaged and the bop bumpers/slingshots/flippers work but it will pop again in about 3 seconds and then nothing works again.

I'm also having a hard time finding literally anyone that will rebuild these boards. I've had 3 companies turn me down as soon as they saw the display board has 4433 chips. So yeah...

#43 3 days ago

Well it's strange that it changed (sounds like Neil Young!). Maybe a short, or another component failure?

BTW, I bought those 4433 chips you found. I need one for my "100" digit in the display. I just got the other ones in case, but would share if useful.

#44 2 days ago

Check the Facebook Marketplace for your area. I just found two more fairly close to me. One verified working fully (playfield is beat up and missing plexiglass) and one unknown.

$100/OBO on the unknown CB Charlie
$250/Firm on the working Star Explorer.

I'm about to own 4 of these.

#45 2 days ago

Count me in as someone who respects these “at home” pinball machines. The first pin I ever bought was a Briarwood-Brunswick Super Star. Paid $25 Canadian for it. It needed a few things fixed, but nothing too crazy. My son loved it. It really acted as our entry into buying pinball machines. I still have it, though it currently resides at my parents place. It’s a great pin for really young kids to play, so they like having it for the grandkids.

1B255180-FE81-4CB7-AD06-0CA7613B902E (resized).jpeg

#46 2 days ago

Yup, sixtyfourbits, our Star Explorer is gonna get used by grandkids with the same white stool as in your pic! They like it that the game is relatively simple and the flippers easy to work.

...and dudemo! What can I say? You're going to corner the market!

#47 2 days ago
Quoted from clodpole:

Yup, sixtyfourbits, our Star Explorer is gonna get used by grandkids with the same white stool as in your pic! They like it that the game is relatively simple and the flippers easy to work.
...and dudemo! What can I say? You're going to corner the market!

I actually have a niece who doesn't like my other pins, as there's too much going on and its over stimulating. So she plays nothing but super star now. I also find my kids and nieces/nephews who are 2-3, that they prefer super star as well. Its just easier to understand and track the ball, while still playing pinball like the rest of the group.

#48 2 days ago

I'm glad to hear that. I think the kids get a chance to feel like they can play, instead of just watch the ball go down the drain.

#49 1 day ago
Quoted from clodpole:

...and dudemo! What can I say? You're going to corner the market!

I like the game, and they're relatively cheap. My plan is to get a working Star Explorer and a working Flying Aces. I plan to keep the Aces stock but beef up the Star Explorer for independent 2" flippers and standard bop bumpers that don't require rings around them to work. Then I'd like to turn one into a "Bally Fireball" home model and the other into a virtual pinball cabinet with a 32" screen.

I'm also in talks with a company that can rebuild these PCB's. They go through and test components and then replace the ones that are failed or going to fail. I'm waiting on a quote. Hope it isn't outrageous. If the price is right, they're getting all of my boards so I have backups.

#50 1 day ago

I once saw a photo of a guy's game room, which had a sweet lineup of only kids' and home-use pinball tables. I thought "this guy's got style". I think you, dudemo, may be on your way to a similar game room. Way to go! You can line up 5 or 6 machines before you even hit $1000.

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