(Topic ID: 171588)

ST Pro no longer ejecting balls SOLVED


By PanzerFreak

3 years ago



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  • 28 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by PanzerFreak
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switch_1 (resized).JPG
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#1 3 years ago

So the other day I installed a couple mods on my ST Pro as well as Cliffy protectors for the shooter lane. For the shooter lane Cliffy protector I disconnected the wires for the ball trough and removed it. I later reconnected it and now the game won't eject balls...

The trough coil functions in the coil test menu but the clear trough test does not work. The mods I installed are basic, both light mods, one uses a Y connector for power and the other connects via alligator clips to a flasher connector. Both mods and wires to the trough look like they are connected properly.

Any tips?

Thank you!

#2 3 years ago

Remove what you installed and see if things improve.

LTG : )

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

he clear trough test does not work

Do the switches look OK in this test?

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Remove what you installed and see if things improve.
LTG : )

Quoted from stevevt:

Do the switches look OK in this test?

Heres a view of the trough test with 4 balls in the trough. I did remove the mod power connectors and still have the same issue.

I double checked the two connectors for the trough and everything there looks good. There doesn't appear to be any lose solder joints either.

One thing that did happen after I powered the game up for the first time after the mod installs was the screen saying "verifying image". I've had that scan happen maybe once before on the game but everything was fine.

20161020_191742 (resized).jpg

#5 3 years ago

Not clear if you aren't aware of this, but the circle will be solid when the switch senses a ball. So, yes, you have a problem or two.

You should confirm that both trough connectors look OK.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

One thing that did happen after I powered the game up for the first time after the mod installs was the screen saying "verifying image". I've had that scan happen maybe once before on the game but everything was fine.

Holding down the left flipper button when powering on a SAM game will force a verification scan on the code. I would guess you have an issue with the 10 pin connector for the trough switches.

#7 3 years ago

Thanks guys for the tips! Something must of came lose when I disconnected the 10 and 2 pin connectors for the trough. The trough opto does light up so it has power. Crimps of each of the wires look good too.

#8 3 years ago

Go into switch test ( not the trough test) and see if you have other switches out in same row or column.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

Go into switch test ( not the trough test) and see if you have other switches out in same row or column.

Switch test looks good, just EOS for the two lower flippers is active.

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Switch test looks good, just EOS for the two lower flipppers is active.

Did you test the switches in the column and rows related to the trough?

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

Did you test the switches in the column and rows related to the trough?

I'll do that next, thanks!

#12 3 years ago

Check the wires on the switches in the trough. Make sure a ground wire did not come off.
Check continuity of the ground wires on the switches and any wires down stream.
Recheck the connectors for the trough. Very possible by taking the connector out that a wire came loose from the connector.

IMG_1090 (resized).PNG

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

The mods I installed are basic, both light mods, one uses a Y connector for power and the other connects via alligator clips to a flasher connector.

I know this doesn't help you but the thought of having anything at all on a pin connected with alligator clips makes me cringe.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

Check the wires on the switches in the trough. Make sure a ground wire did not come off.
Check continuity of the ground wires on the switches and any wires down stream.
Recheck the connectors for the trough. Very possible by taking the connector out that a wire came loose from the connector.

Thanks Tom. I checked some switches on the game and noticed that the two outlane and two inlane switches are also not working. Switches above the outlanes for standup targets are fine.

I checked each of the wires connected to the ball trough and everything looks good. I'll take another look.

#15 3 years ago

Well, the entire switch row below is out on the game. I checked again that all wires to the trough connectors are not lose, everything looks good. Solder points to wires on the switches for each connector looks good.

switch_1 (resized).JPG

#16 3 years ago

Check each wire in the switch row for every switch looking for a broken wire. Start at the shooter lane and work your way right. If there are no broken wires then test Q2 on the cpu as that transistor might be bad. You might have touched something when installing your mods and shorted Q2.

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Well, the entire switch row below is out on the game. I checked again that all wires to the trough connectors are not lose, everything looks good. Solder points to wires on the switches for each connector looks good.

I have broken wires accidentally placing the playfield back in the cab. Sometimes the wires in the back can get pinched.
This is were a MultiMeter set to continuity will help - testing the ground wires on the switches in that row to the connector in the back.
You may have to follow the wire from the last switch in the row all the way to the connector until you find a break (if you are certain no ground wire came off one of those switches).

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from Chrizg:

Check each wire in the switch row for every switch looking for a broken wire. Start at the shooter lane and work your way right. If there are no broken wires then test Q2 on the cpu as that transistor might be bad. You might have touched something when installing your mods and shorted Q2.

Quoted from TomGWI:

I have broken wires accidentally placing the playfield back in the cab. Sometimes the wires in the back can get pinched.
This is were a MultiMeter set to continuity will help - testing the ground wires on the switches in that row to the connector in the back.
You may have to follow the wire from the last switch in the row all the way to the connector until you find a break (if you are certain no ground wire came off one of those switches).

Thanks guys for the tips. I checked every wire connected on that switch row and everything seems fine.

I did check for resistance with my multimeter set to continuity from the ground wires on the switches for the row back to J1 P3 and got a value on each. This problem has been a PITA but hey I'm learning something along the way, lol.

I tried to test the Q2 transistor but can't get a value from that one or any of the transitors. I have to put the probe from the mulitmeter right on the middle connector of the resistor (not the tab) to get a value, I can't get it for Q2 as its so close to the other transistors.

I keep going back to the 10 pin and 2 pin connectors on the trough as that is the only thing I removed. All the wires look fine though and the 10 pin connector cannot be installed backwards due to the pin configuration. Wires on 10 pin and 2 pin line up on each side.

#19 3 years ago

Reseat j1. Also test for continuity from the j1 p3 (gen red) harness to the first switch, if you get a tone move to the next one and so on.

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

Reseat j1. Also test for continuity from the j1 p3 (gen red) harness to the first switch, if you get a tone move to the next one and so on.

Thanks for the tip. I did reseat J1 but no luck. I also tested for continuity from J1 P3 to every switch in the row but everything checked out.

I'll try testing the switches again for continuity. My multimeter doesn't make a sound for testing continuity. By default my multimeter reads "1" for ohms and I've seen the value change when testing for continuity between J1 P3 and ground wires.

#21 3 years ago

If you go into the switch test and manually press the switches in the row that panzer highlighted do they all register?

The 21 and 23 switch is on an opto so it is strange that they are out at the same time as the manual switches 18-20

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

If you go into the switch test and manually press the switches in the row that panzer highlighted do they all register?
The 21 and 23 switch is on an opto so it is strange that they are out at the same time as the manual switches 18-20

Yup, even if I manually press the switches they are out. I'm taking a closer look now at all the grounds. Everything looks good still.

#23 3 years ago

This is odd. If I go to switch alerts every switch in the row that is out says "in service" just like switches in working rows.

#24 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Yup, even if I manually press the switches they are out. I'm taking a closer look now at all the grounds. Everything looks good still.

It is likely a bad transistor Q2 for that row if the ground wires test okay.

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

It is likely a bad transistor Q2 for that row if the ground wires test okay.

Seems like it has to be at this point. I'll try to test the Q2 transistor again. Could this issue be a symptom of a blown fuse or would that only be for a line with coils on it?

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

It is likely a bad transistor Q2 for that row if the ground wires test okay.

Well, I was testing the wrong Q2 transistor....lol. I was not testing the Q2 transistor right above the J1 connector. The Q2 transistor is reading over 1600 on my multimeter while the others near it are around 003 on the 2k ohm multimeter setting.

#27 3 years ago

For what its worth ive never had to remove a ball trough to install a cliffy eject protector. Ive done it on 4 sterns now and you can do it all from the top side under the apron. Couple wood screws hold down the top of the trough and then it pivots up and out of the way on the bolt on the top of the trough on the drain hole side. You may have to loosen that bolt/nut.

I know that is usless info now, and im not the guy to help debug switch matrix stuff. So sorry about that.

Im reading along hoping to learn. Good luck. Im sure pinside can get your game back soon.

#28 3 years ago

Yup, the issue was a bad Q2 transistor. Replaced it and everything works again. Thanks for all of the tips with helping me solve this.

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