(Topic ID: 32264)

SST Lost 20V / no flashers

By MES

11 years ago



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  • 8 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by MES
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#1 11 years ago

Went in to turn on the games and I noticed that the florescent tube in the SST backbox was off. Put in one from a working game and no dice. Took the SST one and put it in another game and it worked, so the light is good. Then noticed that the led for the 20v on the i/o driver board was out. Played a quick game to see if anything else had mysteriously broken over the night. Noticed the flashers were all out too.

What I have checked.
F7 out of the board, okay.
Cracked solder joints on J6, okay
No burnt or connector on J17 from xformer.
Tips, resistors and glass diodes for flashlamps, okay
Resistor 216, seems like it has been getting hot, but is still in specs.
Readings on BR2 based on Pinwiki's testing pics.
1. .438
2. .432
3. .431
4. .443

Thought it was just a fuse or a bad BR2, but now not so sure. Anyone have something else I should try. Tired of looking at it and need a "new" set of eyes to help me out.

Thanks for any suggestions.

#4 11 years ago

Continuity looks good and the fuse clips seem fine (pressed and no splits). Going to check to make sure that there is not a problem with the door switch for the 20V power. Forgot about that. Maybe the backbox light ballast/starter was just a coincidence with the 20V going out. Going to go check on it now, will post any findings.
Thanks guys.

Will buzz out the board again to see if I might have missed something.

LTG- all reading were done with the board removed. BR2 does seem low to me too.

#6 11 years ago

Put board back in and turned game on, had 20V for a few seconds then it went off. Good news is the tube light came back on!

BR21 is getting really hot and there is signs that F23 is also getting pretty hot by the looks of the board. H217, R215, R216 and R219 also seem to be getting hot too. U19 might also be getting hot as well. Checked the flashers in diagnostic and they all work.

Also forgot to mention that the battery pack had come off of the CPU board. Could this be an issue with the flashers? Have not had time to pull the board and put on a remote battery pack. Everything else seems to be working just no flashers during game play or in attract mode.

Have not looked at the connector from transformer in the cabinet yet. Will have more time on Sunday. Will check other voltages too. Any more thoughts?

#8 11 years ago

Looks like it is a flaky switch on the door. Turn it one way and the flashers work, turn it the other and they don't. By turn I mean the white plastic knob/rod (interlock). Now to track down the extra heat on the board.

Could the battery pack being missing be causing a draw on the 5V to the CPU logic? Just a guess at this point ( not really 100% sure what I am doing at any given time ). Will look for other stuff tomorrow when we are closed. JD needs a fuse again, WWF lost a flipper button ( people machine gunning) and still waiting on parts for LAH (come on Marco!). The joys of others playing your games, priceless.

Thanks for all the help. Will post any relevant info for others.

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