I plan to do a partial restore on a Spy next year. Nice pf with factory mylar and near perfect back glass. I got new plastics and a new set of cab decals from retro refurbs over seas. We added a checker board pattern for the front of the cab around the coin door that inspired by the side art. At he bottom front will be Spy Hunter wording below the coin door. I rebuilt the flippers before putting it in storage until after my move to a new house. I was also thinking of going with a blue or purple T molding to add some curb appeal.

I would email him and ask. IIRC, his name was Pete.

Classic arcades has the decal

None of the Bally games I have seen had a return spring. The Sterns of the same era do have a return spring. Of course you can always throw one on if you want.

The lockdown receiver looks great, where did you get it?

I think it is. Good backglass is rare for this game. MPU $200. If it has a nice PF, I would bite. I think Marco has new plastics for this game, just the tops, no clears. I think a guy in Germany sells the clears but are a little thinner than original.

He was selling them on ebay but I don't see them listed right now.

I have noticed sometimes on new EOS switches that when closed had a high resistance. I found that cleaning them up with alcohol seems to help. Must be some kind of residue on the contacts placed on them for protection from oxidation during storage of the manufacturing process? They should be around 2 ohms max.

Did this problem exist before the rehab? Take a look at the connectors and pins at the solenoid driver. Or any other connectors where the flipper wires go towards the pf or solenoid driver. Try a different solenoid driver, the relay might be bad. Also your left cab flipper switch contacts look kinda close.
BTW, nice job on the coil wrappers!

I just noticed on the 3rd pic down, not sure which flipper, but the tiny coil winding wires look like they're touching each other?

Yeah sometimes referred to as machine gunning. My Meteor is doing it on the upper flipper as well but I put in storage before looking at it. It might be a bad diode but unlikely. I do know that the upper flipper get's it power when the secondary (piggy back) EOS closes. So with machine powered down, measure the resistance of the EOS after manually lifting the left lower flipper bat. Make sure 43 volts is getting to the upper flipper.

I was assuming your flipper coils are new? I found this on rgp

https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!searchin/rec.games.pinball/flipper$20hammering%7Csort:date/rec.games.pinball/NXoLo3XS6g0/E0hUqdRNIREJ

Congrats!

Your game looks stunning? I have new cab art for mine but I can't work on my games since I'm moving and all my pins are in storage until Jan.

IIRC, SH has the IDC type connectors for the score displays. Score displays are .156. IDC are less desirable then the crimp on connectors because of heat tolerance and the inability to replace the connector inside the housing. When I do a full resto, I replace them with Molex brand connectors and housings. In fact I change out all IDC's in the entire game on Bally games. Board connection are mostly .100. On any old Bally/Stern game you want to re-flow the header pins on the score displays if you find an issue. Very common for cold solder joints on these. And then go from there.

Also re-flow the headers on the lamp driver and aux lamp driver since you said it's a connection issue for the non-lit pf lamps, could also be bad scr or transistor on the board. That is unless you replaced those boards with new Allteks? Also if the pf lamps that are not lighting are the ones under the green boards that have the screw in bases often fail to make contact, check those the connectors to those board panels.

Yeah SH is an underrated game. Keeps you coming back for more. About the trifurcon pins. I noticed that when I used Trifurons on long connectors like the 20 position, the connector was very difficult to push on and caused the boards to bend too much, especially on score displays. Now I only use them on the high current wires such as power and ground. I think it's overkill to use them on the thinner wires and now I just use the standard 1 sided connectors for those.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-52-0131?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtdAabcSkQOl2R5giuAW2KW

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/15-04-0219?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtVoztFdqDXO1XoW8ViOVzO

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-52-0072?qs=%2fha2pyFadujVG84b3AqCcnclSMMGw03waBtq4v%252bcATQ%3d

Glad to help, Yes Trifurcon is derived from tri which means 3, so the connector grabs the square pin on 3 sides as opposed to a single side creating better contact which is fine when the header is short. On a 20 pin, it takes alot of force to push the connector down when you have all trifurcon connectors. Not good for the PCB because it will bend too much.

Need help with some switches, I have a complete row not registering. Sling shot, S target, N target, saucer and boop ball. At first I thought is was at the connector, A4J2-12, brown wire common to all switches. I replaced the entire connector with a Molex type. No dice. I have continuity from J2 pin 12 to the all of the PF switches. Removed MPU and saw no cold solder joints and have continuity from the pin to the following resistor. Caps and diodes seem good by testing with VOM. Zero stuck switches in diag. test. All other switches are working.

Besides swapping MPU, any other ideas?

Color poll. I want to powder coat the lock-down bar and side rails. I'm torn between blue or dark red. I have custom made cab decals and added red checker pattern to the boring cab front with a new coin door skin. I want to match the powder color with the T molding.

LOL I know what you mean!

So here's where old age and poor eye sight take their toll. I put in a known working MPU (two bits board with fixit rom with game selection for all Bally/Stern games). Switch line is working now. So as per Pinwiki, I replaced U10 and 11 with what I thought were new spares that I had. Fired it up and MPU locked on 2nd flash. I took a closer look to make sure I didn't put them in upside down, I didn't but the U11 chip was a 6808. Shit! I put in another 6821 and still the same, so what did I fry? Hopefully not U2 and/or U6 cuz I don't have spares.

I also changed the 6810 U7 chip, still doesn't get passed 2nd flash.

I don't know how I did this but I screwed up twice. The second time I put a 6808 in the U11 socket. Now that the correct PIA's are in the correct sockets, the MPU now boots and the switch row is now working. It might be time to boost my readers to a +2 FCOL!

I'm finally getting around to the Spy Hunter cab. I don't think too many restos have been done on the god awful Bally/Midway cabs. Mostly I think because decals are not readily available?

So I saw some lifting on some edges so I just decided to peel the decals away. It seams that the decal material is different from head to base cab. I start with base cab, pulling the decals off and it only took minutes. No chemicals or sanding. Left behind is a whitish looking layer on the MDF that is free of glue or residue and very smooth except where there is damage to the wood.

The head decals were much thicker and harder to remove but was still able to peel it away, again no chemicals, sanding nor heat gun needed. But no nice finish left behind. Just plain MDF, some glue, not too much. Some of the MDF fibers were pulled away with the decals so I will need to fill that back in. Time elapsed between last 2 pics was 6 minutes.

Any suggestions as to what to use to fill in the rough MDF? Bondo goes on thick and I don't want to spend hours sanding it.

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