Spy Hunter
Bally, 1984You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Mancave.
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Hey Guys, just joined the hunter club. My machine isn't as nice as some in here but it should come up good with some lovin'. Anyone know if there was movement to recreate the back glass or a translite? Another question, is the shooter plate available anywhere? i couldn't find any reference to it but the Gottlieb one looks very similar in design and dimensions.
Quoted from Grizlyrig:No talk about backglass ot translite for sale but Marco specialties has the shooter plate,sure other sellers have it also. About $3.00
PLATE - SHOOTER COVER
#01-10136
New black baked-enamel ball shooter cover for most late model Bally/Williams pinball machines.
-Mike
Cheers Mike, hopefully they will be recreated one of these days, mines missing a few pieces, thankfully down low so not any of the major artwork is gone. I should have been more specific sorry, i meant the plate on the front of the cab that the shooter rod passes through. These Gottlieb one's are very similar http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-8831
although they won't have the embossed "Bally" writing. The one on my machine has one of the rod/threads busted off so it doesn't tighten up properly and also the plastic piece that sits behind is a bit flogged out also, Gottlieb part is http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-8834
Any idea if these parts can be used instead? as far as i can tell the shooter rod itself is the same diameter.
EDIT* Found the dimensions for the Gottlieb, definitely different sizing 
Ok, i found the plastic bushing on Marco's http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-934
looks like the plate ( #A-3830) is not available anywhere
Quoted from Grizlyrig:It may be an option to get a universal shooter assembly that looks like a Williams. Seen some on ebay for $20.00. Depends on if you care what it looks like.
-Mike
My brother has managed a temporary solution and has silver soldered the shaft/thread back on, it should hold i'm hoping as it's not under a major load, just gotta remember not to do it up too tight 
Good idea with the universal shooter assembly though, may end up having to do that. Cheers!
Quoted from epeabs:Mancave, what are you using to touch up the artwork?
The black is just straight satin black enamel house paint although i found it was a bit too matt to match the existing cab decals so i added a small tin of Humbrol Gloss enamel model paint and it worked out pretty much exact. The yellow is also Humbrol model paint...Number 99 Lemon yellow which was a really nice match to the original yellow (going off pics that is). The red i had to do some colour matching back and forth until i got fairly close to what was still there. I'm basically just masking up sections and using my Aztek model airbrush for the small work and a regular sized spray gun for the black. It's sure not perfect but better than what it was 
The blue is going to be the difficult part to match cause it's several gradations of colour.
Attached is the cab before pic.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I plan to do a partial restore on a Spy next year. Nice pf with factory mylar and near perfect back glass. I got new plastics and a new set of cab decals from retro refurbs over seas. We added a checker board pattern for the front of the cab around the coin door that inspired by the side art. At he bottom front will be Spy Hunter wording below the coin door. I rebuilt the flippers before putting it in storage until after my move to a new house. I was also thinking of going with a blue or purple T molding to add some curb appeal.
I didn't see Spy Hunter on his list of cab decals, know if he still has them?
Quoted from epeabs:Does anyone have a scan of the spinner decal? May just repaint the white on mine, but if I had a scan, I might print one out instead. Thanks
This mob have them also.
http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/spy-hunter-spinner-decals.html
Attached a new lockdown bar bracket and handle as the old one was rusted and crappy looking. Is there supposed to be a return spring on the handle? my machine didn't have one when i got it but i got curious when i spotted the hole drilled in the handle. I've also had a go at a fresh look on the apron playing cards, the surround could be done in other colours but i was thinking something lighter wouldn't be as over powering... Thoughts??
I'm also considering designing some target decals as well but first thing is to get the restore done and dusted
DSC03580 (resized).JPGDSC03582 (resized).JPGDSC03583 (resized).JPGQuoted from Lovef2k:None of the Bally games I have seen had a return spring. The Sterns of the same era do have a return spring. Of course you can always throw one on if you want
Cheers, yeah i just wasn't sure. Seemed to be set up for a spring with that hole in the handle, guess it was just for looks or weight saving 
Quoted from Lovef2k:The lockdown receiver looks great, where did you get it?
From this place here in Oz, it was the only place i could find them.
http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_297&products_id=3903
And remember, that's $140 in Oz dollars so at current conversion rate that's about $106 US.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I think a guy in Germany sells the clears but are a little thinner than original.
Got a link for this?
Quoted from Rando:Is there a flipper rebuild kit available for all 4 flippers, or would I have to buy two separate rebuild kits? Any recommendations?
Marco's have a full rebuild kit available.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/BFKIT88-2L2R
There is another place that has the full kit too..... out of Salt Lake but i can't recall the name of the parts seller.
Getting there with the machine restore I have finished adding everything back on to the top of the play field and now concentrating on cleaning, rebuilding and adding some new parts to the underside. About 5 hours work involved in polishing the drop target bank back to it's former glory, all those years of built up gunk and rust spots have cleaned up nicely using Autosol metal polish and a lot of elbow grease
DSC03728 (resized).JPGDSC03729 (resized).JPGDSC03730 (resized).JPGIs the normal resting state of the left lane gate closed (drains the ball) or open (diverts back to the lower left flipper)?
For some reason i didn't have a photo of this before i stripped the playfield. Thanks in advance
I've got my machine all back together and i will add some pics pretty soon but i've got an issue with the upper left flipper "fluttering", hold the flipper button in and it keeps activating rapidly. Apart from that and a couple of PF insert globe holders that don't appear to be getting power everything seems to be working fine. Can someone please take a pic of their left flipper button switch (inside the cab) and also a pic of the upper left flipper assembly. I'm pretty sure i have the wiring correct but somethings not right somewhere 
All switches appear to be making good contact and i re-wired the switches and coils how they were originally. When i got the machine all flippers except the top left were working, the top left was missing the plastic separator/actuator on the switch but i ended up replacing all the switches and doing a full flipper rebuild. First 3 pics are the Right > cabinet, lower flipper, upper flipper, last 3 pics are the Left > cabinet, lower flipper, upper flipper.
1 (resized).JPG2 (resized).JPG3 (resized).JPG4 (resized).JPG5 (resized).JPG6 (resized).JPGQuoted from Lovef2k:I have noticed sometimes on new EOS switches that when closed had a high resistance. I found that cleaning them up with alcohol seems to help. Must be some kind of residue on the contacts placed on them for protection from oxidation during storage of the manufacturing process? They should be around 2 ohms max.
Yeah i was advised to do that also which i've done to all of the new EOS switches (even the right hand ones which are working fine). I adjusted the gap on the double switch stack on the lower left flipper and even swapped the EOS from the upper left flipper to the right (just to see if the problem swapped to that side) BUT no luck so far, the problem still persists. Bloody frustrating after all the time taken getting the machine back together but hey that's Pinball
Quoted from Lovef2k:Did this problem exist before the rehab? Take a look at the connectors and pins at the solenoid driver. Or any other connectors where the flipper wires go towards the pf or solenoid driver. Try a different solenoid driver, the relay might be bad. Also your left cab flipper switch contacts look kinda close.
BTW, nice job on the coil wrappers!
When i got the machine the upper left didn't work but it was missing the plastic actuator on the blade so i can't be 100% sure about that coil either. The left cab flipper switch in the pic has the button pressed in i should have mentioned that earlier sorry.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I just noticed on the 3rd pic down, not sure which flipper, but the tiny coil winding wires look like they're touching each other?
That's the upper right flipper mech which works ok.
I'm a bit stumped at the moment i must say, don't think it's an issue with the EOS switches. Would a bad diode on the coil cause the same issue> basically what's happening is when i hold the left flipper button in the left lower flipper stays up as per normal but the upper left is rapid firing like crazy ( i called it fluttering earlier but that's what i was on about).
Quoted from Lovef2k:I was assuming your flipper coils are new? I found this on rgp
Thanks for this!! Between this info and the following i've got it tracked down. After chatting with a local(ish) bloke he mentioned a test to bypass the switch stack on the lower flipper, so basically a piece of wire with an alligator clip each end, ground the non power wire (solo wire on the right of the coil, Left upper = black with yellow stripe) to the ground wire of the cabinet flipper EOS (orange) which fires the coil. This did the machine gunning still so it ruled out the EOS switches on the lower flipper. The next culprit in line was the EOS switch itself on the upper flipper. Now i already knew this was a new switch and had been cleaned, etc so it came back to the coil. I just swapped the coils left to right and the gunning' has switched to the right side..... ergo one stuffed coil
It's taken me far longer than i expected but the restore is pretty much over the line now. The play field needs touch ups but i'm not gonna try color matching at the moment. I just wanted to get it up and running again. There's a digit out on the lower left display and a couple of PF led's but they are loose wire issues at the connector. Anyone know if the display and light board connectors use a Pancon .100 tool to crimp in the wires. I have the larger .156 Pancon but not the smaller one.
DSC03861 (resized).JPGDSC03862 (resized).JPGDSC03863 (resized).JPGQuoted from Lovef2k:Your game looks stunning? I have new cab art for mine but I can't work on my games since I'm moving and all my pins are in storage until Jan.
IIRC, SH has the IDC type connectors for the score displays. Score displays are .156. IDC are less desirable then the crimp on connectors because of heat tolerance and the inability to replace the connector inside the housing. When I do a full resto, I replace them with Molex brand connectors and housings. In fact I change out all IDC's in the entire game on Bally games. Board connection are mostly .100. On any old Bally/Stern game you want to re-flow the header pins on the score displays if you find an issue. Very common for cold solder joints on these. And then go from there.Also re-flow the headers on the lamp driver and aux lamp driver since you said it's a connection issue for the non-lit pf lamps, could also be bad scr or transistor on the board. That is unless you replaced those boards with new Allteks? Also if the pf lamps that are not lighting are the ones under the green boards that have the screw in bases often fail to make contact, check those the connectors to those board panels.
Cheers! I've got a 20 pin plug i can use for the display but i've run out of Trifurcon pins, pretty sure it's dodgy wiring on that plug but i'm going to check the header pins first. I have a new Altek lamp driver board so i could run leds on the machine. I have 1 led out on the larger light board and 1 on the smaller upper board, otherwise the rest is fine. Replaced the 2 top flipper coils and she's playing awesome
Quoted from Lovef2k:I think it's overkill to use them on the thinner wires and now I just use the standard 1 sided connectors for those.
Fair enough too. So which connector type would be better? Got a link for a 20 position one?
I was thinking of a different style connector for some reason but i see what you mean now. I did a little reading and realised that the trifurcon is a modern style of pin so i understand what you mean about the one sided connector now I know a bloke that has some of those original style pins so i will be able to get that sorted very soon. Thanks again!
Quoted from Corntaters:To Mancave, I had to put on the shades as the shine on your drop target bank was too brilliant for the unprotected orbs. And both of you have amazing restore on your cab sides. I'm afraid to ask if it was DIYed or shopped out
Cheers A lot of elbow grease in that drop target bank. For my cab sides i re-painted the areas that needed it which was all the surrounding black area, the yellow in the lettering and the red-yellow-white coming off the gun and also the red border. I touched up other areas where the artwork was missing also and to be honest the pictures look far better than viewing with your eyeballs. It's certainly not perfect but far better than when i bought the machine.
On another note TheCapn Which plug on the power section (mid cabinet) is for the coils? Every now and then when i turn the machine on the coils aren't working (mainly ball kick out and flippers). Seems the connector for the coils needs checking, just not sure which one it is.
Quoted from TheCapn:You may want to check the connector on the right side of the solenoid board. If the problem is intermittent then it points to a connnector. Check fuse clips too. The flipper connector should be the connector to the top left side of the solenoid board. I no longer own the title so I can't confirm, but you should be able to download the manual on ipdb.org. Although the scans I last saw were pretty bad - but you can get the "Kings of Steel" manual and the wiring is the same.
Cheers, got it sorted and yep was a loose connector. I took the opportunity whilst in the back box to take the sound board out and replace the volume pot as the sound has been scratchy and up and down in volume since i acquired the machine. Also put in a new pot on the back of the coin door as well and now it's working a treat
Quoted from Corntaters:Yes indeed. Had to adjust/fine tune the flipper at rest position, esp. left. Still enjoying the game. Noticed how close pf is to glass: i puckered up whenever the ball hits it. I guess it really is tempered.
Hahahahahaha oh yes definitely tempered and just as well too, get a LOT of glass smacks on this machine for some reason
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Clovis, CA