My game is really hard to backhand that. I've read it before so tried pretty hard to get a rythm going but the shot is difficult to impossible the way mine is set up. You need to go from left flipper.

Well, I let my SH go last month, but not before a friend and I had a high score battle. Good times. It was my first pin and I miss it.

Anyway, thought I'd share some instruction cards I had made a while back for anyone interested. Enjoy

Google Drive link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1z3qEV6NwjN-PYOEsKufccShqhE_CaLC-?usp=sharing

Spy Hunter - Instruction Cards.pngSpy Hunter - Instruction Card 2.png

I am still pretty new in the hobby and want to replace the rubbers on my Spy Hunter. Are the upper flippers supposed to have flipper rubbers or just a rebound rubber on them? Mine have the rebound (round) rubbers only. Just wondering what others have or what is correct. Also does anyone know the size of it??
Sorry if I used the wrong terminology.
Thank you!
20200126_140115 (resized).jpg

Mine has ones similar to yours. They are black, but the same shape. They seem to work ok, never noticed they were different before.

Thank you both for your help!!

If anyone is looking for a hi-res scan of the Spy Hunter backglass in order to print a translite, here it is. Big shoutout to Aurich for re-touching the scan along with another member here (forgot who, it's been 5 years), for loaning me his backglass to get scanned. Enjoy and hope this helps out those looking for a solution! I didn't realize at the time I needed a scan of the back of the glass as well (for masking), but it's better than nothing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t3nzy8rdf8ukkn7/Spy%20Hunter%20BG%20Front%20CMYK%20FINAL.tif?dl=0

SH scan (resized).PNG

Just got this game today for free out of someone's basement. Sat for 20 years

20201212_144449 (resized).jpg

Need help with some switches, I have a complete row not registering. Sling shot, S target, N target, saucer and boop ball. At first I thought is was at the connector, A4J2-12, brown wire common to all switches. I replaced the entire connector with a Molex type. No dice. I have continuity from J2 pin 12 to the all of the PF switches. Removed MPU and saw no cold solder joints and have continuity from the pin to the following resistor. Caps and diodes seem good by testing with VOM. Zero stuck switches in diag. test. All other switches are working.

Besides swapping MPU, any other ideas?

Color poll. I want to powder coat the lock-down bar and side rails. I'm torn between blue or dark red. I have custom made cab decals and added red checker pattern to the boring cab front with a new coin door skin. I want to match the powder color with the T molding.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Switch_problems

Take note of the section about disconnecting the playfield for testing. You can use that to determine if the problem is on the board.

Loving this lately.

Gotta love a game with no right outlane!

FuckingRightOutlanesEatMyBallsPunkin

LOL I know what you mean!

So here's where old age and poor eye sight take their toll. I put in a known working MPU (two bits board with fixit rom with game selection for all Bally/Stern games). Switch line is working now. So as per Pinwiki, I replaced U10 and 11 with what I thought were new spares that I had. Fired it up and MPU locked on 2nd flash. I took a closer look to make sure I didn't put them in upside down, I didn't but the U11 chip was a 6808. Shit! I put in another 6821 and still the same, so what did I fry? Hopefully not U2 and/or U6 cuz I don't have spares.

I also changed the 6810 U7 chip, still doesn't get passed 2nd flash.

I don't know how I did this but I screwed up twice. The second time I put a 6808 in the U11 socket. Now that the correct PIA's are in the correct sockets, the MPU now boots and the switch row is now working. It might be time to boost my readers to a +2 FCOL!

I'm finally getting around to the Spy Hunter cab. I don't think too many restos have been done on the god awful Bally/Midway cabs. Mostly I think because decals are not readily available?

So I saw some lifting on some edges so I just decided to peel the decals away. It seams that the decal material is different from head to base cab. I start with base cab, pulling the decals off and it only took minutes. No chemicals or sanding. Left behind is a whitish looking layer on the MDF that is free of glue or residue and very smooth except where there is damage to the wood.

The head decals were much thicker and harder to remove but was still able to peel it away, again no chemicals, sanding nor heat gun needed. But no nice finish left behind. Just plain MDF, some glue, not too much. Some of the MDF fibers were pulled away with the decals so I will need to fill that back in. Time elapsed between last 2 pics was 6 minutes.

Any suggestions as to what to use to fill in the rough MDF? Bondo goes on thick and I don't want to spend hours sanding it.

P6120021 (resized).JPG

P6120022 (resized).JPG

P6120023 (resized).JPG

P6120024 (resized).JPG

What did you do in order to get lights under posts by the “SHOT” targets on the lower right hand side? I don’t believe that is stock as mine doesn’t have light there and it drives me nuts!

That’s sweet. How did you do that? The original cabinet art is all label. Did you print that onto a big label? One side of mine is faded as hell and I’ve wondered if there are replacement labels out there or how it might work to recreate one.

Found something the other day:
Spy Hunter has a self-test position at #20 which is undocumented in the operating manual.
Setting it to '00' disables the organ sounding part of the Peter Gunn theme used in the game (eg. start of a ball). Any value of '01' or higher enables it (provided background sounds are enabled via self-test position #18).

I just found the cabinet decals at Pinball Decals EU --> https://pinballdecalseu.com/shop/spy-hunter-pinball-cabinet-decals-set/?currency=USD

What did you end up using to fill in the rough MDF?

Bally Midway Spy Hunter Pin Ball Glass for sale at auction in case anyone is looking for one.

https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/141791349_bally-midway-spy-hunter-pin-ball-glass

In the club. Looks like a fun game with a great theme and sound.

87E5DDE3-B07D-472D-9636-4F3A02B79DF6 (resized).jpeg

Can anybody out there take a picture of J3 on the solenoid driver board for me. I need to see a couple close up pics on the wiring. The schematics shows 20 wires total and I have 18. I believe there are 2 white/greens and 2 gray/green, but not sure how their connected. The board was hacked when I got it and I'm trying to figure it out. Thank you.

J3 wire/colors are pretty much standard across all Ballys of that time:
The Black-Yellow wire at pin 4 below is only on earlier chime games that have the knocker in the headbox.

SDB_J3_Wire_Colors.png

This is way better than the blurry schematics for SH. Thank you. The brown/green loop helps subtract 1 wire, but I’m not sure where the other one is missing. I now have 19 wires and the schematics shows 20. I’ll take a look tomorrow.

Thanks for the help. I got her back up and running again. The only problem I have now is a phantom pop bumper. I've tried separating wires, cleaning switches, looking for bad diodes, cutting the capacitor and replacing pins, but can't get the pop bumper to stop firing. It seems to happen every 10th time I utilize the left flipper. Any suggestions

I am picking up a spy hunter today that needs quite a bit of work. It plays fast and well. Are there any repro playfields out there or does anyone have on that they’d be willing to part with. The silk screen on mine is not in the best shape. This is my first true project pin and I’d really like to make this thing shine. Any and all suggestions and help are welcome.

I wonder if they make a hardtop? My Spy Hunter went in a swap so i am out of this thread.

Great game, but can't keep them all.