(Topic ID: 140962)

Spy Hunter thread


By TheCapn

4 years ago



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  • 151 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 24 days ago by punkin
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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There are 151 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 4.
#101 1 year ago
Quoted from Rando:

Is there a flipper rebuild kit available for all 4 flippers, or would I have to buy two separate rebuild kits? Any recommendations?

Marco's have a full rebuild kit available.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/BFKIT88-2L2R

There is another place that has the full kit too..... out of Salt Lake but i can't recall the name of the parts seller.

#102 1 year ago

http://actionpinball.com is the name of the Salt Lake site. Besides a great selection of hard to find parts it has some excellent resource pages.

1 month later
#103 1 year ago
Quoted from Rando:

Is there a flipper rebuild kit available for all 4 flippers, or would I have to buy two separate rebuild kits? Any recommendations?
Thanks.

Hello ! I just rebuilt all my flippers on my Spy Hunter. Here is the Flipper Kit page for The Pinball Resource. The Kit # KT-BFLIP04. You will need 2 kits to do all 4 flippers. If you are replacing the coils there is a different coil # for the upper flippers. http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.htm. Or Marco has a kit for all 4 flippers :https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/BFKIT88-2L2R . Also here is the switch stack for the lower flippers, https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A365-00046-0000 . If your flipper brackets are stripped out you can replace them with these: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-613-41 . My flippers were a mess, so I rebuilt them completely from the brackets up. Hope this helps you some.

#104 1 year ago

Getting there with the machine restore I have finished adding everything back on to the top of the play field and now concentrating on cleaning, rebuilding and adding some new parts to the underside. About 5 hours work involved in polishing the drop target bank back to it's former glory, all those years of built up gunk and rust spots have cleaned up nicely using Autosol metal polish and a lot of elbow grease

DSC03728 (resized).JPGDSC03729 (resized).JPGDSC03730 (resized).JPG
#105 1 year ago

Im pretty sure that it never looked that good - even off the factory floor...

#106 1 year ago

Is the normal resting state of the left lane gate closed (drains the ball) or open (diverts back to the lower left flipper)?
For some reason i didn't have a photo of this before i stripped the playfield. Thanks in advance

#107 1 year ago

The gate should only allow you to feed the left flipper if you get the skill shot and unlock it during gameplay. Most of the time that gate is open to drain.

1 week later
#108 1 year ago

Well that's all the mech assemblies cleaned, polished and replacement parts added, back on the underneath of the PF. I also did the coil wrappers while i was on the job. Still a bit more tidying to do here and there but it's getting closer to the finish line now

DSC03773 (resized).JPG
#109 1 year ago

looking damn sexy!

4 weeks later
#110 1 year ago

Does anyone know where I can find a couple new roll over buttons? Bally part # 0017-00042-0681

1 week later
#111 1 year ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

Does anyone know where I can find a couple new roll over buttons? Bally part # 0017-00042-0681

Are those the buttons in the weapons section?

#112 1 year ago

I've got my machine all back together and i will add some pics pretty soon but i've got an issue with the upper left flipper "fluttering", hold the flipper button in and it keeps activating rapidly. Apart from that and a couple of PF insert globe holders that don't appear to be getting power everything seems to be working fine. Can someone please take a pic of their left flipper button switch (inside the cab) and also a pic of the upper left flipper assembly. I'm pretty sure i have the wiring correct but somethings not right somewhere

#113 1 year ago

Check that your EOSs are making good contact.

#114 1 year ago

All switches appear to be making good contact and i re-wired the switches and coils how they were originally. When i got the machine all flippers except the top left were working, the top left was missing the plastic separator/actuator on the switch but i ended up replacing all the switches and doing a full flipper rebuild. First 3 pics are the Right > cabinet, lower flipper, upper flipper, last 3 pics are the Left > cabinet, lower flipper, upper flipper.

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#115 1 year ago

Looks good, but the fluttering might be when the coil fires into position it causes the leaf to vibrate (which is what causes the flutter) Also, you are activating the solenoids with your fingers, and that doesn't mean that they will actually actuate that far upon self power. Try raising the playfield and go into settings play with the flipper buttons and watch the flipper leaf contacts. hold a flipper button down and see what you get. Try applying a little pressure to the leaf against the contact when its powered to see if the fluttering stops. This is more than likely just some minor leaf switch tweaking that needs to be done.

#116 1 year ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Are those the buttons in the weapons section?

Yes the small white ones. I was able to get a orange rollover button as a sub but looks kinda screwy.

#117 1 year ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

Yes the small white ones. I was able to get a orange rollover button as a sub but looks kinda screwy.

I would 'mentos' it. lol. Basically make them all look the same. Take them all out and paint them white and then clearcoat them. Or hell maybe a different color. Red might look good. Photoshop up some examples to experiment.

#118 1 year ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

Looks good, but the fluttering might be when the coil fires into position it causes the leaf to vibrate (which is what causes the flutter) Also, you are activating the solenoids with your fingers, and that doesn't mean that they will actually actuate that far upon self power. Try raising the playfield and go into settings play with the flipper buttons and watch the flipper leaf contacts. hold a flipper button down and see what you get. Try applying a little pressure to the leaf against the contact when its powered to see if the fluttering stops. This is more than likely just some minor leaf switch tweaking that needs to be done.

I have noticed sometimes on new EOS switches that when closed had a high resistance. I found that cleaning them up with alcohol seems to help. Must be some kind of residue on the contacts placed on them for protection from oxidation during storage of the manufacturing process? They should be around 2 ohms max.

#119 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I have noticed sometimes on new EOS switches that when closed had a high resistance. I found that cleaning them up with alcohol seems to help. Must be some kind of residue on the contacts placed on them for protection from oxidation during storage of the manufacturing process? They should be around 2 ohms max.

Yeah i was advised to do that also which i've done to all of the new EOS switches (even the right hand ones which are working fine). I adjusted the gap on the double switch stack on the lower left flipper and even swapped the EOS from the upper left flipper to the right (just to see if the problem swapped to that side) BUT no luck so far, the problem still persists. Bloody frustrating after all the time taken getting the machine back together but hey that's Pinball

#120 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Yeah i was advised to do that also which i've done to all of the new EOS switches (even the right hand ones which are working fine). I adjusted the gap on the double switch stack on the lower left flipper and even swapped the EOS from the upper left flipper to the right (just to see if the problem swapped to that side) BUT no luck so far, the problem still persists. Bloody frustrating after all the time taken getting the machine back together but hey that's Pinball

Did this problem exist before the rehab? Take a look at the connectors and pins at the solenoid driver. Or any other connectors where the flipper wires go towards the pf or solenoid driver. Try a different solenoid driver, the relay might be bad. Also your left cab flipper switch contacts look kinda close.
BTW, nice job on the coil wrappers!

#121 1 year ago

I just noticed on the 3rd pic down, not sure which flipper, but the tiny coil winding wires look like they're touching each other?

#122 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Did this problem exist before the rehab? Take a look at the connectors and pins at the solenoid driver. Or any other connectors where the flipper wires go towards the pf or solenoid driver. Try a different solenoid driver, the relay might be bad. Also your left cab flipper switch contacts look kinda close.
BTW, nice job on the coil wrappers!

When i got the machine the upper left didn't work but it was missing the plastic actuator on the blade so i can't be 100% sure about that coil either. The left cab flipper switch in the pic has the button pressed in i should have mentioned that earlier sorry.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

I just noticed on the 3rd pic down, not sure which flipper, but the tiny coil winding wires look like they're touching each other?

That's the upper right flipper mech which works ok.
I'm a bit stumped at the moment i must say, don't think it's an issue with the EOS switches. Would a bad diode on the coil cause the same issue> basically what's happening is when i hold the left flipper button in the left lower flipper stays up as per normal but the upper left is rapid firing like crazy ( i called it fluttering earlier but that's what i was on about).

#123 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

When i got the machine the upper left didn't work but it was missing the plastic actuator on the blade so i can't be 100% sure about that coil either. The left cab flipper switch in the pic has the button pressed in i should have mentioned that earlier sorry.

That's the upper right flipper mech which works ok.
I'm a bit stumped at the moment i must say, don't think it's an issue with the EOS switches. Would a bad diode on the coil cause the same issue> basically what's happening is when i hold the left flipper button in the left lower flipper stays up as per normal but the upper left is rapid firing like crazy ( i called it fluttering earlier but that's what i was on about).

Yeah sometimes referred to as machine gunning. My Meteor is doing it on the upper flipper as well but I put in storage before looking at it. It might be a bad diode but unlikely. I do know that the upper flipper get's it power when the secondary (piggy back) EOS closes. So with machine powered down, measure the resistance of the EOS after manually lifting the left lower flipper bat. Make sure 43 volts is getting to the upper flipper.

#125 1 year ago

Thanks for this!! Between this info and the following i've got it tracked down. After chatting with a local(ish) bloke he mentioned a test to bypass the switch stack on the lower flipper, so basically a piece of wire with an alligator clip each end, ground the non power wire (solo wire on the right of the coil, Left upper = black with yellow stripe) to the ground wire of the cabinet flipper EOS (orange) which fires the coil. This did the machine gunning still so it ruled out the EOS switches on the lower flipper. The next culprit in line was the EOS switch itself on the upper flipper. Now i already knew this was a new switch and had been cleaned, etc so it came back to the coil. I just swapped the coils left to right and the gunning' has switched to the right side..... ergo one stuffed coil

#126 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Thanks for this!! Between this info and the following i've got it tracked down. After chatting with a local(ish) bloke he mentioned a test to bypass the switch stack on the lower flipper, so basically a piece of wire with an alligator clip each end, ground the non power wire (solo wire on the right of the coil, Left upper = black with yellow stripe) to the ground wire of the cabinet flipper EOS (orange) which fires the coil. This did the machine gunning still so it ruled out the EOS switches on the lower flipper. The next culprit in line was the EOS switch itself on the upper flipper. Now i already knew this was a new switch and had been cleaned, etc so it came back to the coil. I just swapped the coils left to right and the gunning' has switched to the right side..... ergo one stuffed coil

Congrats!

#127 1 year ago

It's taken me far longer than i expected but the restore is pretty much over the line now. The play field needs touch ups but i'm not gonna try color matching at the moment. I just wanted to get it up and running again. There's a digit out on the lower left display and a couple of PF led's but they are loose wire issues at the connector. Anyone know if the display and light board connectors use a Pancon .100 tool to crimp in the wires. I have the larger .156 Pancon but not the smaller one.

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#128 1 year ago

Those side rails really help this machine to stand out!

#129 1 year ago

Here is a photoshop of the the upper PF. Just to give a visual of the weapon warehouse if the buttons were red.

photoshop version of upper pf (resized).jpg
#130 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

It's taken me far longer than i expected but the restore is pretty much over the line now. The play field needs touch ups but i'm not gonna try color matching at the moment. I just wanted to get it up and running again. There's a digit out on the lower left display and a couple of PF led's but they are loose wire issues at the connector. Anyone know if the display and light board connectors use a Pancon .100 tool to crimp in the wires. I have the larger .156 Pancon but not the smaller one.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your game looks stunning? I have new cab art for mine but I can't work on my games since I'm moving and all my pins are in storage until Jan.
.
IIRC, SH has the IDC type connectors for the score displays. Score displays are .156. IDC are less desirable then the crimp on connectors because of heat tolerance and the inability to replace the connector inside the housing. When I do a full resto, I replace them with Molex brand connectors and housings. In fact I change out all IDC's in the entire game on Bally games. Board connection are mostly .100. On any old Bally/Stern game you want to re-flow the header pins on the score displays if you find an issue. Very common for cold solder joints on these. And then go from there.

Also re-flow the headers on the lamp driver and aux lamp driver since you said it's a connection issue for the non-lit pf lamps, could also be bad scr or transistor on the board. That is unless you replaced those boards with new Allteks? Also if the pf lamps that are not lighting are the ones under the green boards that have the screw in bases often fail to make contact, check those the connectors to those board panels.

#131 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Your game looks stunning? I have new cab art for mine but I can't work on my games since I'm moving and all my pins are in storage until Jan.
.
IIRC, SH has the IDC type connectors for the score displays. Score displays are .156. IDC are less desirable then the crimp on connectors because of heat tolerance and the inability to replace the connector inside the housing. When I do a full resto, I replace them with Molex brand connectors and housings. In fact I change out all IDC's in the entire game on Bally games. Board connection are mostly .100. On any old Bally/Stern game you want to re-flow the header pins on the score displays if you find an issue. Very common for cold solder joints on these. And then go from there.

Also re-flow the headers on the lamp driver and aux lamp driver since you said it's a connection issue for the non-lit pf lamps, could also be bad scr or transistor on the board. That is unless you replaced those boards with new Allteks? Also if the pf lamps that are not lighting are the ones under the green boards that have the screw in bases often fail to make contact, check those the connectors to those board panels.

Cheers! I've got a 20 pin plug i can use for the display but i've run out of Trifurcon pins, pretty sure it's dodgy wiring on that plug but i'm going to check the header pins first. I have a new Altek lamp driver board so i could run leds on the machine. I have 1 led out on the larger light board and 1 on the smaller upper board, otherwise the rest is fine. Replaced the 2 top flipper coils and she's playing awesome

#132 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Cheers! I've got a 20 pin plug i can use for the display but i've run out of Trifurcon pins, pretty sure it's dodgy wiring on that plug but i'm going to check the header pins first. I have a new Altek lamp driver board so i could run leds on the machine. I have 1 led out on the larger light board and 1 on the smaller upper board, otherwise the rest is fine. Replaced the 2 top flipper coils and she's playing awesome

Yeah SH is an underrated game. Keeps you coming back for more. About the trifurcon pins. I noticed that when I used Trifurons on long connectors like the 20 position, the connector was very difficult to push on and caused the boards to bend too much, especially on score displays. Now I only use them on the high current wires such as power and ground. I think it's overkill to use them on the thinner wires and now I just use the standard 1 sided connectors for those.

#133 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I think it's overkill to use them on the thinner wires and now I just use the standard 1 sided connectors for those.

Fair enough too. So which connector type would be better? Got a link for a 20 position one?

#135 1 year ago

I was thinking of a different style connector for some reason but i see what you mean now. I did a little reading and realised that the trifurcon is a modern style of pin so i understand what you mean about the one sided connector now I know a bloke that has some of those original style pins so i will be able to get that sorted very soon. Thanks again!

#136 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

I was thinking of a different style connector for some reason but i see what you mean now. I did a little reading and realised that the trifurcon is a modern style of pin so i understand what you mean about the one sided connector now I know a bloke that has some of those original style pins so i will be able to get that sorted very soon. Thanks again!

Glad to help, Yes Trifurcon is derived from tri which means 3, so the connector grabs the square pin on 3 sides as opposed to a single side creating better contact which is fine when the header is short. On a 20 pin, it takes alot of force to push the connector down when you have all trifurcon connectors. Not good for the PCB because it will bend too much.

5 months later
#137 8 months ago

Greetings fellow Pinside members! I'm honored to make this post because I just got the pinball bug last October of 2018; just joined Pinside; and my first pm project I acquired last December of 2018 is a Spy Hunter. (All I can say to the SH naysayers is that I'm glad, and they should be, too, that they didn't pay for my SH.) As a newbie I'm just glad to be learning and to have available the dialogues and camaraderie with other pm hobbyists.
Anyway folks, I need help. This is embarrassing: I feel like the guy in the commercial where he fixes the plumbing, but when he goes to turn on the light switch, water starts to pour out of the ceiling fixture. When I got my SH, everything was working. The real plus is that the backglass is in very good shape, and the pf and cab is in solid, fair shape. The usual superficial refurb of replacing all star posts and rubbers were done, as well as the pf and outer cabinet having been cleaned. Under the hood was a different story with all the OEM. So of course, within the first 2 weeks, my first pm/SH issue arose: left upper flipper stopped working. I hoped it would happen a bit later than sooner. Looking underneath I found the plastic on the cam broken in two. So I bought a pair of rebuild kits and used half of one to fix that upper left. Also bought 4 coils (and new switches) and only used one for that upper left. Now I'm back to having fun and having ad #18 (I think) adjusted to option 3 to enjoy the music b/c I grew up with Peter Gunn, and it wasn't a bad show either. To keep up the fun I decided to replace the lighting board along with the incandescents with LEDs and new LED driver. Also, I bought one plasma pop bumper from Lightedpinballmods for my other game, but it didn't fit (b/c I didn't double-check the clearance needed). So I installed it on the SH, and even there I had to shave down the bumper body to get it to fit under the playglass. But it looks good! Everything is working and I'm having fun playing again and felt good about fixing the flipper.
Not having really learned the game rules yet, e.g., does lighting up the rollovers in the bagatelle really get big scores at the risk of draining down the left? I notice that it also takes some skill to keep the ball from going INTO the bagatelle b/c when it comes down to the pop up, then there's half a chance it'll drain on the left, but only half of that half chance if one takes the time to utilize the plunger skill shot to close the inner outlane. Still learning, experimenting...
Now I'm feeling cocky and in retrospect didn't wait till repair was actually needed: I decided to rebuild the right upper flipper. In doing so I broke a foundational axiom: don't fix it if it ain't broke. I guess in the back of my mind I was thinking as in days of youth that when I'd r & r the headlight lamp, I wouldn't change out the other side even if it went out only a week later, only to maximize its lifespan. Didn't take long for that frugality to get old...and now I may go back. When I lowered the pf, I replaced some of the GI lamps to different colors now that I had them. Now the moment of truth as I turn on the power. Big disappointment. The GI doesn't stay on; it only comes on for the split second when I depress either of the flipper buttons. Even if I keep both buttons depressed, the GI will only blink. In less than a minute, the upper left flipper starts to drop down while button is held...then the upper right flipper starts to chatter/flutter when I hold down the right button. (I will check the EOS for good contact, as others in this forum have suggested. Thank you much.) At this point the only possible explanation to offer which I don't even understand the process, is that I possibly reversed the wiring of the outer 2 of the 3 lugs on the upper, right flipper coil. (I took pics and I had seconds thoughts on how I read my diagram, but haven't yet taken time yet to check the photos for correct wiring.) I even went into an initial, temporary denial of this current loss of proper operation: I thought well this is different, the GI blinks upon flipper button actuation, how unique! Well after a few seconds of this I went into the anger stage and said this looks like crap!
In closing it's apparent I'm no electronics expert, but I've joined Pinside as a grasshopper with open ears and a closed mouth to learn from the learned ones. So I thank you all in advance for any DIY fix-it tips you might offer. Moreover to TheCapn, I really like your LED color choices, esp. on the backglass. To Mancave, I had to put on the shades as the shine on your drop target bank was too brilliant for the unprotected orbs. And both of you have amazing restore on your cab sides. I'm afraid to ask if it was DIYed or shopped out. Either way they look great! The entirety of the SH Club forum (as well as Pinside in general) is fantastic b/c it inspires and helps me to maintain, develop and have fun with my new found hobby. By the way...for the time being, I'm not turning on the light switch as I'm still feeling wet.

1 week later
#138 8 months ago
Quoted from Corntaters:

To Mancave, I had to put on the shades as the shine on your drop target bank was too brilliant for the unprotected orbs. And both of you have amazing restore on your cab sides. I'm afraid to ask if it was DIYed or shopped out

Cheers A lot of elbow grease in that drop target bank. For my cab sides i re-painted the areas that needed it which was all the surrounding black area, the yellow in the lettering and the red-yellow-white coming off the gun and also the red border. I touched up other areas where the artwork was missing also and to be honest the pictures look far better than viewing with your eyeballs. It's certainly not perfect but far better than when i bought the machine.

On another note TheCapn Which plug on the power section (mid cabinet) is for the coils? Every now and then when i turn the machine on the coils aren't working (mainly ball kick out and flippers). Seems the connector for the coils needs checking, just not sure which one it is.

#139 8 months ago

You may want to check the connector on the right side of the solenoid board. If the problem is intermittent then it points to a connnector. Check fuse clips too. The flipper connector should be the connector to the top left side of the solenoid board. I no longer own the title so I can't confirm, but you should be able to download the manual on ipdb.org. Although the scans I last saw were pretty bad - but you can get the "Kings of Steel" manual and the wiring is the same.

#140 8 months ago
Quoted from Corntaters:

Greetings fellow Pinside members! I'm honored to make this post because I just got the pinball bug last October of 2018; just joined Pinside; and my first pm project I acquired last December of 2018 is a Spy Hunter. (All I can say to the SH naysayers is that I'm glad, and they should be, too, that they didn't pay for my SH.) As a newbie I'm just glad to be learning and to have available the dialogues and camaraderie with other pm hobbyists.
Anyway folks, I need help. This is embarrassing: I feel like the guy in the commercial where he fixes the plumbing, but when he goes to turn on the light switch, water starts to pour out of the ceiling fixture. When I got my SH, everything was working. The real plus is that the backglass is in very good shape, and the pf and cab is in solid, fair shape. The usual superficial refurb of replacing all star posts and rubbers were done, as well as the pf and outer cabinet having been cleaned. Under the hood was a different story with all the OEM. So of course, within the first 2 weeks, my first pm/SH issue arose: left upper flipper stopped working. I hoped it would happen a bit later than sooner. Looking underneath I found the plastic on the cam broken in two. So I bought a pair of rebuild kits and used half of one to fix that upper left. Also bought 4 coils (and new switches) and only used one for that upper left. Now I'm back to having fun and having ad #18 (I think) adjusted to option 3 to enjoy the music b/c I grew up with Peter Gunn, and it wasn't a bad show either. To keep up the fun I decided to replace the lighting board along with the incandescents with LEDs and new LED driver. Also, I bought one plasma pop bumper from Lightedpinballmods for my other game, but it didn't fit (b/c I didn't double-check the clearance needed). So I installed it on the SH, and even there I had to shave down the bumper body to get it to fit under the playglass. But it looks good! Everything is working and I'm having fun playing again and felt good about fixing the flipper.
Not having really learned the game rules yet, e.g., does lighting up the rollovers in the bagatelle really get big scores at the risk of draining down the left? I notice that it also takes some skill to keep the ball from going INTO the bagatelle b/c when it comes down to the pop up, then there's half a chance it'll drain on the left, but only half of that half chance if one takes the time to utilize the plunger skill shot to close the inner outlane. Still learning, experimenting...
Now I'm feeling cocky and in retrospect didn't wait till repair was actually needed: I decided to rebuild the right upper flipper. In doing so I broke a foundational axiom: don't fix it if it ain't broke. I guess in the back of my mind I was thinking as in days of youth that when I'd r & r the headlight lamp, I wouldn't change out the other side even if it went out only a week later, only to maximize its lifespan. Didn't take long for that frugality to get old...and now I may go back. When I lowered the pf, I replaced some of the GI lamps to different colors now that I had them. Now the moment of truth as I turn on the power. Big disappointment. The GI doesn't stay on; it only comes on for the split second when I depress either of the flipper buttons. Even if I keep both buttons depressed, the GI will only blink. In less than a minute, the upper left flipper starts to drop down while button is held...then the upper right flipper starts to chatter/flutter when I hold down the right button. (I will check the EOS for good contact, as others in this forum have suggested. Thank you much.) At this point the only possible explanation to offer which I don't even understand the process, is that I possibly reversed the wiring of the outer 2 of the 3 lugs on the upper, right flipper coil. (I took pics and I had seconds thoughts on how I read my diagram, but haven't yet taken time yet to check the photos for correct wiring.) I even went into an initial, temporary denial of this current loss of proper operation: I thought well this is different, the GI blinks upon flipper button actuation, how unique! Well after a few seconds of this I went into the anger stage and said this looks like crap!
In closing it's apparent I'm no electronics expert, but I've joined Pinside as a grasshopper with open ears and a closed mouth to learn from the learned ones. So I thank you all in advance for any DIY fix-it tips you might offer. Moreover to TheCapn, I really like your LED color choices, esp. on the backglass. To Mancave, I had to put on the shades as the shine on your drop target bank was too brilliant for the unprotected orbs. And both of you have amazing restore on your cab sides. I'm afraid to ask if it was DIYed or shopped out. Either way they look great! The entirety of the SH Club forum (as well as Pinside in general) is fantastic b/c it inspires and helps me to maintain, develop and have fun with my new found hobby. By the way...for the time being, I'm not turning on the light switch as I'm still feeling wet.

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2328

Scroll down and download the manual if you don't have one. It will give you plenty of help in fixing and understanding your game. Enjoy!

#141 7 months ago

Thanks for hollering back guys! I stepped away from the situation for a while to come back fresh. So yesterday not only with the EOS but all the flipper coil switches needed to be synced. Thank you. Just glad none of the coils fried, but the new switches sure got some wear. Also decided to re-solder the wires and jumpers to the coil and switch lugs b/c it's fun and practice makes better. In regards to the GI malfn, the solution was found by accident and I can tell you the whats, but not the whys and hows (which i'll read up on). No doubt referring back to the manual will help. Anyway, while I had the pf propped up with game on, my hand lightly brushed across some wires and as i did so, i noticed the GI coming on for a split second. So i wiggled the wires, and made the GI flicker. Sliding the top off the connector, there appeared one wire not fully seated, the third from left, brown/green wire. The blades were cutting more insulation than touching wire. That wire was reseated and reflowing the pins on this aux. driver was fun, even though there weren't any broken solders on this board. Spy Hunter is back on the hunt again and water flows from the faucet...many thanks!

IMG_20190411_231739 (resized).jpg
#142 7 months ago

Greetings! Not sure what you mean by perfect. After 27 yrs in building trades i've noticed that if i look at my "perfect" fab and install, eventually i'll find something i could have done "better" or differently. Then bossman murphy's law walks by and asks "what's the matter? are you having a seizure? Why aren't you still moving and building America?" Bottom line Mancave, if you like it, then i love it!
When i first scanned thru the manual that fortunately survived with the machine, i thought ok great, but whatever. Then the gi issue arose. So after wiggling each wire on the connector, took a look at the connection of the suspect grn/brn wire. (Thank God for little channel locks.) Then i go back to the manual and learn on p.23 this is the auxiliary driver board for the gi flasher and the 6 pin wafer connector is named J1. So now i enjoy an ah-ha moment of satisfaction and then on to enjoy playing the game once again. Thanks for the encouragement metalkatt. Moreover i now find myself more interested and less intimidated by those pages at the back of the manual, the ones that fold out. I believe they're called schematics--yeah baby! I attached a pic of flippers found on a parts website that sorta matches the adjacent pf plastics--not better than original, just different for the time being. Also experimenting with the lighting as i refer to the photos posted by TheCapn. (Man, nice photos.) By the way snyper2099, it was the outstanding artwork of the backglass and the theme that first drew me to SH. So kudos to the original artist.
So in the last 3 yrs, about 23 Pinside members posted questions/comments. In regards to the other 69 SH owners and the 29 wishlisters, i'm interested in their SH dealings. What say they?

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1 week later
#143 7 months ago

Yes indeed. Had to adjust/fine tune the flipper at rest position, esp. left. Still enjoying the game. Noticed how close pf is to glass: i puckered up whenever the ball hits it. I guess it really is tempered.

3 weeks later
#144 6 months ago
Quoted from TheCapn:

You may want to check the connector on the right side of the solenoid board. If the problem is intermittent then it points to a connnector. Check fuse clips too. The flipper connector should be the connector to the top left side of the solenoid board. I no longer own the title so I can't confirm, but you should be able to download the manual on ipdb.org. Although the scans I last saw were pretty bad - but you can get the "Kings of Steel" manual and the wiring is the same.

Cheers, got it sorted and yep was a loose connector. I took the opportunity whilst in the back box to take the sound board out and replace the volume pot as the sound has been scratchy and up and down in volume since i acquired the machine. Also put in a new pot on the back of the coin door as well and now it's working a treat

#145 6 months ago
Quoted from Corntaters:

Yes indeed. Had to adjust/fine tune the flipper at rest position, esp. left. Still enjoying the game. Noticed how close pf is to glass: i puckered up whenever the ball hits it. I guess it really is tempered.

Hahahahahaha oh yes definitely tempered and just as well too, get a LOT of glass smacks on this machine for some reason

5 months later
#146 48 days ago

Hi all, new owner here i bought mancave 's machine from him a few weeks ago and love it to bits.

Still occasionally has the glitch at start up with no flippers and ball launch, now i know what to look for.

I play this title more than any other here, just really enjoying learning it.

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3 weeks later
#147 25 days ago

I’m helping a buddy shop his game and need some pictures of the top side playfield. His game is missing the wire gates at the upper entrance and lower exit of the weapons area on the left. Can someone post shots showing the gates and the metal posts the gates use on the sides. Also looking for a good shot of the metal posts on the sides of the spinner. Thanks in advance!

#148 25 days ago

I’m helping a buddy shop his game that has a few small parts missing on his playfield.

Can someone post photos of the upper and lower wire gates for the weapons area on the left side of the playfield? Please show the metal posts on the sides of the entrance to the weapons area. Also need a closeup of the entrance to the spinner area showing the metal posts on the sides of the spinner.

I appreciate your help!

#149 25 days ago

Let me know if you need more;

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#150 24 days ago
Quoted from Corntaters:

So in the last 3 yrs, about 23 Pinside members posted questions/comments. In regards to the other 69 SH owners and the 29 wishlisters, i'm interested in their SH dealings. What say they?
[quoted image]

I had a spy hunter for a few weeks. Game has a major design flaw that makes it unplayable in competition.

All you do is shoot into right saucer, when ejected from saucer hold up right flipper to catch the ball. Then back hand saucer and repeat forever.

Watched a few people do it at my house for a long time over and over way to easy to do. Game got sold a couple days later.

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