I'm working on a Spy that has been sitting for 3 years. Was working prior. MPU led locked on. Cheap Squeak led also locked but will cycle when pressing red reset button. No sounds. I started with the test points on solenoid driver. Disconnected MPU. TP5 12VDC is running at 16VDC, should be 11.9 +/- 1.4V. Moved to the sound board. TP1 was 14VDC, should be 11V. Moved to power supply. TP3 reading 18VDC. I swapped out the rectifier board and got the same result on TP3. It should be 11.9 +/- 1.4V.

So is 16V enough to lock up the MPU and is 14V enough to lock the sound board? Should I be looking at the transformer? Do not worry about it and try another MPU? I have a spare with a NVRAM that has also been sitting 3 years and I don't want to risk burning it out until I'm sure the extra voltage is okay.

I appreciate any input.

Yeah I figure the reset section was bad, but I also thought 16V would have caused it. I had a xenon once that had an early version Alltek solenoid driver that was throwing out 17V and the sound boards didn't like it. So I'm leery.

Oh and the game is doing other weird stuff. At power up, the outhole coil jumps. not a full fire but just a quick nudge. And some of the feature lamps are locking on.

Ah! You just reminded me of the jumpers in the Amp connector by the main fuse. I think that's where the setting is for line voltage. now I have to find the setting in the manual.

Sometimes you need to smack yourself for being stupid. The empoms were missing from the mpu. I must have threw the board in the game when I was packing and getting ready to move 3 years ago. It's been so long since I did this, I don't even remember where the MPU came from. It does have the Bally/wms part number sticker attached so I got that right at least.

My first clue should have been the fact that all of the connectors were still removed when I first opened the head. Anyway, I set the trans jumper for 120V line voltage and got a slight reduction on the 12 circuit. Now reads 16.35V at the power supply and 14.45 at TP 5 sol board. So I was pleased w that.

I put in the correct MPU that Hibler fixed for me back then and I installed an NVRAM back then also. So game working now minus some switches. So now time to look at the connectors. My manual is a copy but a poor one for the switch matrix page as I cannot make out some of the switch names.

Quench thanks for the scan, just printed it. Yes voltage tested with solenoid driver connected, so yes 2 volt loss. Time for some re-pinning

Thanks again for the scans. I might take ya up on that later. I'm no stranger to re-pinning connectors. I have done 7 complete games, down to the coin door 24 pin connector. 3 EBD, 2 F2K, a Flash gordon and a Star Trek. I love yanking out those IDC's. It's a crap ton of work but makes your game so much more reliable. The issue now is finding a source for the housings. The 24 pin 062 and the 28 pin KK are really scarce now.

Thanks for the tip using the blank spots to double up the wiring.

13k of the molex .100? nice

I only have about 12 sets of the 24's