Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992Fuses test good
LED 1 is lit sometimes and game functions, then LED 1 goes out and the game locks up, on immediate reboot LED 1 remains out and can't access the test menu, TP3 reads 9 volts when this happens.
Feel like I could be chasing ghosts forever on this one
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Update and additional question(s)
I tested D1 and D2 Diodes, D2 was good, D1 was "Leaking", I wasn't sure if the diodes I had on hand were 1N4004's so I ordered some and will pull the board and replace D1 when the new diodes arrive.
My question is- would D1 being bad cause the flakey behavior I've been observing, some times the unit boots cleanly and 12 volts are present, a game starts correctly, and then suddenly the flippers go spastic, the LED#1 goes out, additional games are "started"(if the game is still on ball 1), then eventually the game locks up, the menu is inaccessible. (If the game has gotten to ball 2 before the flippers go spastic the game ends up in the help menu but locked here as well with no menu functionality.) If I reboot and the 12 volt LED#1 doesn't light I get the Check fuse F114 and F115 message. If I let it sit in the locked state sometimes the LED#1 relights and I can exit the menu and restart a game.
Anyone else have similar symptoms when D1 is bad?
Again, Thanks in advance
So...
You've got a whole lot of intermittent problems!
The first things I do when I have a lot of things that are giving me problems is to shut the game off, and then I:
Firmly press on the big square chip on the CPU board. If this is a little bit out of it's socket you'll have the problems you've been seeing.
Re-seat (unplug and plug back in) the following plugs on the big power board: On the right side, J101, and especially J102 (this is where power comes in for the logic, and bad power can cause all kinds of problems.) On the left side J114 (it's just below the big ribbon cable). This provides power to the CPU.
Reseat J210 on the CPU board (it's right next to the J114 on the power board that you just reseated). This is where the power comes in to the CPU.
Reseat every ribbon cable.
D1 is part of the battery backed memory circuit, but it should only be preventing the batteries from trying to power the whole circuit board. D1 is a 1N5817 diode, not a 1N4004. It also connects the memory chip to power when the game is on.
You could have a bad battery backed memory chip, and you have an ADDAMS FAMILY... Best pinball ever made!
It's WORTH it to put in a NVRAM chip in place of the original memory chip. That way D1 and D2 aren't as important, you never have to worry about changing batteries, you never have to worry about battery acid.
To put in an NVRAM memory chip is a difficult job, and unless you regularly unsolder IC chips and put them in sockets, you are going to want to send your CPU board and have this job done for you... but it's worth it, and if the memory chip stuff is the problem you will have both fixed the problem and made your game much more reliable.
Get the NVRAM memory upgrade, and have the technician who installs it for you check out the CPU... this problem is presenting as if you've got bad memory chip, bad ASIC (big square chip, problem might be fixed if it is squished in it's socket) or bad CPU chip.
You've got too good a machine to live with intermittent problems.
Let us know what you find!
Quoted from PinRetail:So...
You've got a whole lot of intermittent problems!
The first things I do when I have a lot of things that are giving me problems is to shut the game off, and then I:
Firmly press on the big square chip on the CPU board. If this is a little bit out of it's socket you'll have the problems you've been seeing.
Re-seat (unplug and plug back in) the following plugs on the big power board: On the right side, J101, and especially J102 (this is where power comes in for the logic, and bad power can cause all kinds of problems.) On the left side J114 (it's just below the big ribbon cable). This provides power to the CPU.
Reseat J210 on the CPU board (it's right next to the J114 on the power board that you just reseated). This is where the power comes in to the CPU.
Reseat every ribbon cable.
D1 is part of the battery backed memory circuit, but it should only be preventing the batteries from trying to power the whole circuit board. D1 is a 1N5817 diode, not a 1N4004. It also connects the memory chip to power when the game is on.
You could have a bad battery backed memory chip, and you have an ADDAMS FAMILY... Best pinball ever made!
It's WORTH it to put in a NVRAM chip in place of the original memory chip. That way D1 and D2 aren't as important, you never have to worry about changing batteries, you never have to worry about battery acid.
To put in an NVRAM memory chip is a difficult job, and unless you regularly unsolder IC chips and put them in sockets, you are going to want to send your CPU board and have this job done for you... but it's worth it, and if the memory chip stuff is the problem you will have both fixed the problem and made your game much more reliable.
Get the NVRAM memory upgrade, and have the technician who installs it for you check out the CPU... this problem is presenting as if you've got bad memory chip, bad ASIC (big square chip, problem might be fixed if it is squished in it's socket) or bad CPU chip.
You've got too good a machine to live with intermittent problems.
Let us know what you find!
Well, I reseated the plugs and ribbon cables to no avail. Pressed the ASIC chip firmly, (I did not remove it and reseat it)
Then, I scoured the WPC Schematics and Addams Family manual. Both documents say the D1 diode is a 1N4004. I removed the board and cut out and de-soldered the old D1 diode, the traces all looked clean and good. (the old Diode said it was a 1N4004 as well.) Tested the new diode before installing, tested good. Placed it on the on the board and before I soldered it on I checked it again with my multimeter, it tested like it was bad. This completely confused me but since it was testing good on the table I went ahead and installed it. Replaced the board and unfortunately no change still get the check fuse "message" and no 12 volts on the LED or test point.
I Will continue to move down the line of other suspects unless someone would know why the D1 would test bad on installation?
Thanks in advance, (sorry it takes me days to circle back on this issue, too many other priorities and "honey do's")
Quoted from PAR:I Will continue to move down the line of other suspects unless someone would know why the D1 would test bad on installation?
Move on from this if you are talking about D1 on the MPU board. D1 measures .15V on the diode test when it is in the board, because of the circuit design. Has nothing to do with the F114 F115 issue.
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Move on from this if you are talking about D1 on the MPU board. D1 measures .15V on the diode test when it is in the board, because of the circuit design. Has nothing to do with the F114 F115 issue.
It's the D1 on the Power Driver Board not the MPU, sorry if I was vague on that, my bad.
D1 on the driver board is inline with BR1, for 20v, which then turns into 12v for the switch matrix.
Diode test BR1. I had an open diode on BR1 that caused a TOM that I just worked on Wednesday evening to have the F114 and F115 message. In my case, I still had 20v, but 12vreg was non-existent.
Quoted from PAR:I tested D1 and D2 Diodes, D2 was good, D1 was "Leaking"
Make sure you are using the diode test for testing diodes. Resistance test usually looks like a diode is leaking but in fact is a capacitor charging and discharging if you swap the leads around. Resistance test of a diode is only good for testing for a shorted diode.
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