That does seem really strange. Is the black molding pressed on firmly?
(Topic ID: 321343)
Linked Games
Total Nuclear Annihilation
Spooky Pinball, 2017-
Total Nuclear Annihilation (CE)
Spooky Pinball, 2022
Topic Gallery
Seattle, WA
Quoted from nephasth:Non-butter?
Yeah, no butter for me.
Quoted from lpeters82:That does seem really strange. Is the black molding pressed on firmly?
Something doesn’t seem right…
Quoted from 27dnast:Something doesn’t seem right…
The washed out one popped out with ease. I got the new one to fit but it required flexing the crossbar more than I would have liked to. It was tight.
There's another Pinside member in this thread who is unable to get their original CE backglass out, so there are some inconsistencies going on with either the glass or the molding.
Quoted from pinthewin:The washed out one popped out with ease. I got the new one to fit but it required flexing the crossbar more than I would have liked to. It was tight.
There's another Pinside member in this thread who is unable to get their original CE backglass out, so there are some inconsistencies going on with either the glass or the molding.
You have me wondering if my glass doesn't fit correctly.
I am unable to get the glass out without flipping down the screen panel or flip down the screen panel without lifting the glass up. They have to be done in tandem which creates a bit of a precarious situation.
Is this what you are experiencing?
Quoted from Jtrzerocool:You have me wondering if my glass doesn't fit correctly.
I am unable to get the glass out without flipping down the screen panel or flip down the screen panel without lifting the glass up. They have to be done in tandem which creates a bit of a precarious situation.
Is this what you are experiencing?
On my TNA CE you simply unlock and lower the speaker panel, then use the lift channel to lift up the backglass, then tilt the bottom out of the backbox.
Quoted from MacmanCubed:On my TNA CE you simply unlock and lower the speaker panel, then use the lift channel to lift up the backglass, then tilt the bottom out of the backbox.
On my CE, the backglass lift channel sits pretty low and the screen panel will not fold down without lifting up on the backglass lift channel while simultaneously pulling down on the screen panel. It kinda creates a pinch point with my fingers lodged between the lift channel and screen panel.
Quoted from Jtrzerocool:On my CE, the backglass lift channel sits pretty low and the screen panel will not fold down without lifting up on the backglass lift channel while simultaneously pulling down on the screen panel. It kinda creates a pinch point with my fingers lodged between the lift channel and screen panel.
When opening mine the door will hit against the bottom edge/seal of the backglass as well. And when closing the door I have to either put a hand on the glass and slide up or use my finger nail to lift up on the bottom edge and then try and close the door.
.."its the little things" .. 
20221208_014501 (resized).jpg#158 arrived and setup yesterday. Have a digit out on the Player 3 display, the first boot... didn't boot, and the sub isn't working. It may not be turned up (have to check the amp settings when I get home today). Also the playfield glass holder piece near the backbox isn't well positioned. I have to run my fingernail along it to get the glass back in every time.
The random failure to boot (happened twice to me now) is the most concerning issue. The first time the display went all garbled and then just sat there. The second time it was stuck on the TNA loading screen. Left it for 5 minutes, no change. Both times a power cycle fixed it. Thinking there's something flaky somewhere.
Overall, not nearly as bad as some have had but I am disappointed in the QC. I mean the dead digit and sub for sure should have been caught in testing.
On a different note: How are y'all holding the playfield up when you have to work under it? The older games I'm used to have prop rods... is that not a thing anymore?
Does this look like the corrected backglass? I can't tell.
IMG_1049 (resized).jpgIMG_1051 (resized).jpgQuoted from mr_penguin:#158 arrived and setup yesterday. Have a digit out on the Player 3 display, the first boot... didn't boot, and the sub isn't working. It may not be turned up (have to check the amp settings when I get home today). Also the playfield glass holder piece near the backbox isn't well positioned. I have to run my fingernail along it to get the glass back in every time.
The random failure to boot (happened twice to me now) is the most concerning issue. The first time the display went all garbled and then just sat there. The second time it was stuck on the TNA loading screen. Left it for 5 minutes, no change. Both times a power cycle fixed it. Thinking there's something flaky somewhere.
Overall, not nearly as bad as some have had but I am disappointed in the QC. I mean the dead digit and sub for sure should have been caught in testing.
On a different note: How are y'all holding the playfield up when you have to work under it? The older games I'm used to have prop rods... is that not a thing anymore?
Does this look like the corrected backglass? I can't tell.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Given the rough ride these games go through, it doesn’t surprise me there are issues that come up after delivery. I’d be checking connections in the backbox for the display and not booting up issues.
Check the amp where the speaker wires slide in, and the volume of course. There have been a couple bad amps reported.
The playfield doesn’t have a prop rod, so you can set it on the rubber bumpers or pull it fully forward, then lift and tilt it against the backbox onto a folded towel. The prop rods were useful, but would twist the playfield with repeated use.
I’d also recommend you use art blade protectors before lifting the playfield so they don’t get scratched. The ones from Pinball Life work well, and you can trim them for a better fit.
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
One final caution! My backboard plastic was scratched by the screws holding the playfield glass rear channel. I emailed Spooky about it and they are sending me a new one. I’ll be adding rubber bumpers to keep the plastic away from the screws when working on the playfield.
6897A040-E9B9-4663-8F19-369615028ABB (resized).jpeg
Quoted from MacmanCubed:Given the rough ride these games go through, it doesn’t surprise me there are issues that come up after delivery. I’d be checking connections in the backbox for the display and not booting up issues.
Check the amp where the speaker wires slide in, and the volume of course. There have been a couple bad amps reported.
I checked for loose wires all over, none found. Already in contact with AJ about a replacement score display. The sub volume was turned all the way down on the amp. Not a big deal, but again - should have been caught in QC. Not sure about the boot up issues, it's weird that it is so sporadic.
Quoted from MacmanCubed:The playfield doesn’t have a prop rod, so you can set it on the rubber bumpers or pull it fully forward, then lift and tilt it against the backbox onto a folded towel. The prop rods were useful, but would twist the playfield with repeated use.
Where are the rubber bumpers you speak of?
I've heard that about prop rods, but also don't entirely buy it as a reason to not have a prop rod. My dad's Haunted House has a prop rod- a wide body game with 3 playfields and almost 40 years later no twisting issues. I personally think that excuse is just gaslighting from the manufacturers to justify cheapening the build. I'm sure it's happened somewhere and on some games, but still - not a great excuse.
Quoted from MacmanCubed:I’d also recommend you use art blade protectors before lifting the playfield so they don’t get scratched. The ones from Pinball Life work well, and you can trim them for a better fit.
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
This is good advice! I'll look into a set of those, thanks!
Quoted from MacmanCubed:One final caution! My backboard plastic was scratched by the screws holding the playfield glass rear channel. I emailed Spooky about it and they are sending me a new one. I’ll be adding rubber bumpers to keep the plastic away from the screws when working on the playfield.
[quoted image]
Good to know. So far no scratches but I'll be extra careful in the future.
Quoted from mr_penguin:Where are the rubber bumpers you speak of?
On the bottom of the rails you grab to pull the playfield out of the cabinet.
Quoted from mr_penguin:I checked for loose wires all over, none found. Already in contact with AJ about a replacement score display. The sub volume was turned all the way down on the amp. Not a big deal, but again - should have been caught in QC. Not sure about the boot up issues, it's weird that it is so sporadic.
Did AJ have any ideas about fixing the non-booting issue? Intermittent issues are the pits!
I know on my TNA CE I do have to lightly press in the middle of the playfield glass to allow it to slide into the rear channel under the backbox. Could probably adjust the channel, then install the rubber bumpers or felt pads over the screw heads so they can't scratch the backboard plastic.
This is what my reactor core timer is doing. I moved it to the ball save location for testing, and it does the same thing. AJ is sending a new one. 8.8 looks fine, but 3.X, 2.X and 0.X times are missing segments.
Screen Shot 2022-12-09 at 10.19.16 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2022-12-09 at 10.17.04 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2022-12-09 at 10.17.42 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2022-12-09 at 10.18.32 PM (resized).png
Quoted from mr_penguin:I checked for loose wires all over, none found. Already in contact with AJ about a replacement score display. The sub volume was turned all the way down on the amp. Not a big deal, but again - should have been caught in QC. Not sure about the boot up issues, it's weird that it is so sporadic.
Where are the rubber bumpers you speak of?
I've heard that about prop rods, but also don't entirely buy it as a reason to not have a prop rod. My dad's Haunted House has a prop rod- a wide body game with 3 playfields and almost 40 years later no twisting issues. I personally think that excuse is just gaslighting from the manufacturers to justify cheapening the build. I'm sure it's happened somewhere and on some games, but still - not a great excuse.This is good advice! I'll look into a set of those, thanks!
Good to know. So far no scratches but I'll be extra careful in the future.
Nobody uses prop rods… it’s not cheapening, they just aren’t necessary. Rails are all you need. Otherwise, lift the playfield to its full height.
As for your boot issues, physically remove reseat cables. It will probably fix your issues. And, gently press down on the middle edge of playfield glass to slide it in the back channel. Sometimes it’s a tight fit.
Just played about 50 games back-to-back on #141 last night (had to bump Lionman out of the default Grand Champion spot). I play the heck out of my new games. So far so good, no issues that I noticed. Looks, sounds, and plays like a gem. Hopefully, that continues. Glad I made the purchase, but I did have to dig deep in my pockets for this one. I knew I loved the machine having spent a lot of time on an original at location and Spooky didn't disappoint with the CE. Time to start saving up for the next machine.
Whats the highest number butter cab, somebody has received?
Seems like non butter is possibly way ahead of butter, dang!
Quoted from Purdue:Whats the highest number butter cab, somebody has received?
Seems like non butter is possibly way ahead of butter, dang!
#116 butter should be shipping next week.
Quoted from nephasth:#116 butter should be shipping next week.
Thanks!
Dang doesn't look like a TNA Christmas break for us. Oh well still pumped!
My TNA #160 has been done and ready to pick up but unfortunately due to work I haven’t been able to get it. 
I also didn’t want to risk delivery damage.
I’m hoping to be able to go there to pick it up sometime this coming week.
I’ve played TNA plenty of times, always wanted one so I’m looking forward to finally owning it. Can’t wait! 
Quoted from Kcrison:#61 #89 #112 made it back to Ohio
[quoted image]
O M G 
<3
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:O M G <3
Thanks for the game Scott. We are very happy.
Quoted from Kcrison:#61 #89 #112 made it back to Ohio
[quoted image]
Now that’s a lot of TNA!
Quoted from Kcrison:#61 #89 #112 made it back to Ohio
[quoted image]
Our mutual friend Phil just texted me this same picture. My knees got weak when I opened the text 
Quoted from Kcrison:#61 #89 #112 made it back to Ohio
[quoted image]
I can hear this picture.
Quoted from Purdue:Whats the highest number butter cab, somebody has received?
Seems like non butter is possibly way ahead of butter, dang!
#170 left the Spooky factory on the 6th, but won't make it to me here in Seattle until the 15th.
Edit: My bad, didn't read properly. This is non-butter.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Please let me know which one, going on what you tested earlier, it is most likely the receiver.
--Scott
You were correct. It was the receiver. Changed out the opto and it was good to go.
Sydney
Quoted from Deez:You were correct. It was the receiver. Changed out the opto and it was good to go.
Oh excellent. Glad you are back up and running. I added some notes to my to do list on the software to make diagnosing this stuff a bit easier.
--Scott
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Oh excellent. Glad you are back up and running. I added some notes to my to do list on the software to make diagnosing this stuff a bit easier.
--Scott
Good call. My biggest issue was my new phone no longer can detect if the transmitter is good so I might need to buy an IR detector.
This may be the Bourbon talking, but I just love this machine. Scott Danesi and Spooky have given us something truly wonderful. I will make this machine an heirloom for my kids (if you ever see this up for sale on Pinside from me, please smack me down!). It's so fun and retro. I was born in 1976 and spent my childhood in the 80s, riding my bike to the local arcade and playing pinball machines like Sorcerer. Even though it didn't exist then, TNA is a unique throwback; every time I play I'm thrown back to that time. I already see dimpling (not quite as much as Stanger Things), and some of the lanes stick (left lane, E in CORE and the A in SAVE) on mine, but a minor shake sets it loose without a tilt (usually). I actually like those nuances in a machine. I want more Pinball Machines like this.
Does anyone know whether the dimensions posted in https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tna-cab-dims-please#post-5931849 are relevant for the CE? I can't imagine they would be any different.
Ground to top of siren: 74.25"
Width of front legs at ground: 25.5"
Top of backbox depth: 10"
Bottom of backbox depth: 7.5"
Cabinet depth: 52"
Depth of front legs to back legs at ground: 55"
Lockdown bar width 22.5"
Backbox face width: 28.75"
Backbox face height: 28.75"
Backbox face height with siren: 32.75"
Siren height: 4"
Height of cabinet and backbox when folded down: 27"So to sum up...
For transporting you need 27" high x 28.75" wide x 52" deep
When setup you need 74.25" high (including 4" siren) x 25.5" wide x 55" deep (for the footprint of the legs)
I'm mostly concerned with the transportation dimensions of 27" x 28.75" x 52" as I have some very tricky stairs to get it up.
Quoted from negz:Does anyone know whether the dimensions posted in https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tna-cab-dims-please#post-5931849 are relevant for the CE? I can't imagine they would be any different.I'm mostly concerned with the transportation dimensions of 27" x 28.75" x 52" as I have some very tricky stairs to get it up.
These dimensions were gathered from Spooky a few months ago by another pinsider and might help.
Quoted from MacmanCubed:On the bottom of the rails you grab to pull the playfield out of the cabinet.
Did AJ have any ideas about fixing the non-booting issue? Intermittent issues are the pits!
I know on my TNA CE I do have to lightly press in the middle of the playfield glass to allow it to slide into the rear channel under the backbox. Could probably adjust the channel, then install the rubber bumpers or felt pads over the screw heads so they can't scratch the backboard plastic.This is what my reactor core timer is doing. I moved it to the ball save location for testing, and it does the same thing. AJ is sending a new one. 8.8 looks fine, but 3.X, 2.X and 0.X times are missing segments.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Ahh. I see now how this works. Thanks.
No ideas about the non-booting issue but it also hasn't recurred, so I can't provided any useful diagnostic testing either. We're going to play wait and see for now.
Interesting failure mode on your reactor core timer. I swear mine said 'on' once instead of 00, but I don't know if that's a possible display there or not. Haven't seen it again.
So all of my complaints aside, the Spooky guys have really been outstanding with the post-purchase support. Plus we really love the game. Put over 200 plays on it in the first 3 days it's been here.
#125 landed last week. Game played excellent out of the box. Only adjustments I had to make were with slings to make them more sensitive. This is my second TNA as I sold my original #81 during Covid. So great to have it back.
Got mine yesterday and finally set it up today. Everything seems to be working with only 1 issue, the dreaded shooter lane\ramp eject issue. I think mine is due to the fork entrance and those forks should be straight and pointed on the playfield but mine look like they are slightly bent up and the ball constantly hits it, I would say 4 out of 5 times it rejects or rattles. Overall I am happy I haven’t had any other issues and hope that trend continues and will be calling my buddy AJ tomorrow. From reading the threads, looks like I have the updated ramp (1st pic) as my screw holes are very close to the fork tips vs. original and earlier CE ones (2nd and 3rd pics). I took a slow mo video and you can clearly see it hits one of the forks every time, no matter how I adjust my playfield or shooter rod.
Will be posting this in the other TNA thread as well, just in case.
Appreciate any help if there is a simple fix.
C77BE481-49C7-4590-A14F-C78FEEBABC31 (resized).jpegDF39A294-2F2A-4D77-A8F3-9F6980625B91 (resized).jpegF03BC6E2-6F20-4BEA-860D-537235A2BCE4 (resized).jpeg
Can someone post a good picture of the back box without the back glass?
Getting my game delivered tomorrow and wondering if I’ll be able to remove the back-box easily.
TIA
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Can someone post a good picture of the back box without the back glass?
Getting my game delivered tomorrow and wondering if I’ll be able to remove the back-box easily.
TIA
Here you go, doesn't look impossible, but not as simple as a Stern. I'm kind of in the same boat as you so let us know if you go for it.
IMG_0659 (resized).jpgIMG_0660 (resized).jpgQuoted from dssuski:Here you go, doesn't look impossible, but not as simple as a Stern. I'm kind of in the same boat as you so let us know if you go for it.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I do spike 2 sterns all the time, super easy. Stern Sam system was a pain. Rick and Morty was a bitch and I gave up on it. My walls suffered because of it.
This doesn’t look bad at all though.
Thank you!
I’ll post some follow up and pics when I’m done with it. Hopefully tonight!
#170 delivered and setup! Just barely got it up my extremely hard-mode staircase thanks to a team of experienced piano movers.
It’s playing great so far. Had to fix a connection in the head that came loose during shipping, and the left scoop upkicker needed some debris cleared to get it firing correctly but otherwise no major issues that I can tell.
My EL side rails are super whiny and mildly shock-ey so next up is hot gluing that and figuring out how to insulate the screws from the EL.
DB2D5A8C-1A79-47D0-AED9-9BAAC61F1FE1 (resized).jpegE9DFCA53-AF6A-4F0D-ACC8-12551F5A5C16 (resized).jpeg
#160 arrived today, thankfully with no shipping damage. Actually, the delivery guy almost frickin dropped it!
After he brought it down from the truck he rolled it up my driveway on his push style forklift to the walkway by my front door. As he tried to go onto the walkway it stopped so he backed up and pushed it harder and when it hit the cement walkway the whole thing started falling forward and he yelled oh no!!! 
Good thing I was walking with it and only a few feet ahead of him. So as I see it falling forward I step in front of it and was able to save the thing from falling over. I caught the top of the box at about 45 degree angle and let the weight of it hit one of my knees softly, it was at about a 30 degree angle at that point! Holy shit…. that was a close call!!!
Now to wait for one my sons to help me bring it down to my basement.
8298ED09-577B-4E42-94C5-42725696B8A6 (resized).jpeg
Looks like one of my Beagles is enjoying a tasty piece of cardboard from the boxes I laid on the floor!
Quoted from negz:Actually, there’s one thing I need to contact Spooky about - I don’t know if I can handle the typo in the instruction card that says I need to “destory” reactors.
That was my fault and I never ended up fixing it. OOPS!
--Scott
Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:Got mine yesterday and finally set it up today. Everything seems to be working with only 1 issue, the dreaded shooter lane\ramp eject issue. I think mine is due to the fork entrance and those forks should be straight and pointed on the playfield but mine look like they are slightly bent up and the ball constantly hits it, I would say 4 out of 5 times it rejects or rattles. Overall I am happy I haven’t had any other issues and hope that trend continues and will be calling my buddy AJ tomorrow. From reading the threads, looks like I have the updated ramp (1st pic) as my screw holes are very close to the fork tips vs. original and earlier CE ones (2nd and 3rd pics). I took a slow mo video and you can clearly see it hits one of the forks every time, no matter how I adjust my playfield or shooter rod.
Will be posting this in the other TNA thread as well, just in case.
Appreciate any help if there is a simple fix.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This is my #1 problem. I have the ramp you have (screws at tips) but it’s still poppi g the ball up. I think it’s as simple as the damn top of the screws sticking up. Took a slow-motion video and it consistently bounces off right screw into left green plastic piece. Thinking I need to remove ramp, bend metal pieces completely flat, then find screws that won’t stick up. Please PM me if you fix yours.
Got my machine into my basement and setup but when I turn it on it makes a buzzing sound like an amp would make on a electric guitar?
If I unplug the amp the noise stops.
All the lights work, display works and score boards work too. Seems like everything else is ok but the sound.
Any ideas?
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
