If you manually actuate the O relay (or whatever the ball return relay on that game is), does it kick the ball out?

The best way to find the problem would be to look on the schematic to see what switches and relays send power to the outhole solenoid (coil). Some quick items to check would be the outhole switch to make sure it's clean and adjusted properly. Also, check the ball count unit/player unit to make sure it is fully reset when you start a game... Do you have a schematic for the machine?

Find the outhole solenoid on the schematic and work your way back to see which switches control power to that solenoid. You'll first need to check if each switch in the outhole circuit is clean and adjusted properly. If you have problems finding the switches, just post a photo of the circuit and we can point out the switches in question...

You can either start from the coin switches or the credit unit advance solenoid. I usually start at the credit unit advance solenoid and work back through the switches using the schematic to see what switches send power to that solenoid. It's probably just a dirty or mis-adjusted switch. Also, check the Jones plugs in the backbox to see if they are seated properly...

Hi pbm3
lets look in the schema at E-10 -> the "Coil on Add Replay Unit" - close to this is a Make-and-Brake-Switch on W-2nd-Chute-Relay -> Score-Motor-Switches and a Adj. Unit - "Position 2 plays per coin" means: NO connection through this Adj.-Switch.
I assume Your W-Relay does not pull-in - question: does it pull-in ? If it does: The W-Relay has ONLY ONE Make-and-Brake-Switch, Type "C" - I read in the list of coils: W-Relay: 2A, 1B, 1C means one Normally-open-, one Normally-closed-, one Make-and-Break-Switch.

What happens when You manually press the anchor-plate / armature of W-Relay ? Greetings Rolf

Make sure the max credit switch on the credit unit is closed.

Here's a good post by Dirt Flipper about this. IF it's not a switch issue in the path somewhere and simply a mechanical one where the mechanism struggles to get it across to the shooter-lane, here are some things to consider:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-gottlieb-ball-return-not-kicking-ball-out-to-shooter-one-cause

I had this issue with my rebuilt Atlantis where the coil was fine, the path was fine, but the mechanism was just too worn out (too much play, maybe a slightly bent bracket or worn spring -- I never could tell for sure) and the ball kicker would take 6-7 tries sometimes to get the ball across.

I finally just bought one off another collector who was parting out a game and swapped the whole thing out. Works 100% now.

Hi pbm3
do NOT fumble around on the Score-Motor-Switches 2C, 4C, 4B. Your problem is in the connecting wires. In Switzerland it is half an hour before midnight - I go to sleep. I hope to read from You in about 7 to 8 hours - we might have to use a jumper-wire to narrow-down the problem. Gerretings Rolf

Hi pbm3
in post-12 You write: "The W-Relay does pull in" - is this still true ? (we need the W-Relay pullinhg for "to add credits onto the replay counter".

Look at my snippet of schema: "A" is whre during play the Score-Drums and Specials make the "Add-Relay-Unit-Coil" fire.

The long green line shows the circuitry when You throw-in a coin into "2nd Coin-Chute". -> The w-Relay pulls-in and let the Score-Motor run - question: In Your pin ? Yes or No. Each turn the Score-Motor-Switch-1A pulses 5 times - This switch is good in Your pin - this switch is used allover in the pin.
There is an Adj-Unit - You can choose 2, 3, 4, 5 plays per coin - Can You set this to position-"5" ?
When adjusted "other" - some Score-Motor-Switches suppres some of the 5 impulses.
The pulling W-Relay throws a Make-and-Brake-Switch (Gottlieb does not want the Knocker sound WHEN ADDING CREDITS).

I like to use a jumper-wire - my "orange line" shows jumpering after the pulsed switch SCM-1A <-> Coil on Replay-Unit. This is complicated / hard to do.
A "much easier place to clip-on a gator-clip (jumper-wire)" is "at a switch on E-Relay" or "at a switch on O-Relay"
I do NOT want these relays for pulling - I do not want these switches for closing / opening !!! I just looked-up in the schema for a nice / easy accessible place to clip-on an jumper-wire (gator-clip).

My long "green line" is wire-color-black-mingled-with-white. AAA: Look on E-Relay for an Normally-Open-Switch with soldered-on: wire-color-black-mingled-with-white / wire-color-green-mingled-with-red - clip-on the jumper-wire at: wire-color-black-mingled-with-white. The other end of the jumper-wire clip-on at the replay-unit-Step-UP coil: at wire-color-yellow-mingled-with-green.
Throw-in a coin -> what happens ?
As an alternative - BBB: Look on O-Relay for an Normally-Open-Switch with soldered-on: wire-color-black-mingled-with-white / wire-color-yellow-mingled-with-green - clip-on the jumper-wire at: wire-color-black-mingled-with-white. The other end of the jumper-wire clip-on at the replay-unit-Step-UP coil: at wire-color-yellow-mingled-with-green.
Throw-in a coin -> what happens ?

(((pbm3 - I am frustrated - the schema says "at coil on Replay-Unit": wire-color-yellow-mingled-with-green AND the schema says "at Switch on O-Relay": wire-color-yellow-mingled-with-green)))

Somewhere in that (my green) long connection SCM-1A <-> coil on Replay-Unit: is a fault.
Greetings Rolf
P.S.: When Your testing gives replays -> we move the jumper-wire at the next place -> the to the next place -> all of a sudden: NO replays - the fault is no longer jumpered.

0-adding-replays_(resized).jpg

Hi pbm3
Great - The Adj.-Switch set in position "5" - and the Unit works !
Want to live with this ? - maybe put a note in the pin: "Attention: 25-Cent Coin Chute ONLY works in position "5 added plays per 25-Cent-Coin" (?).

If You want to fix the fault: Well, I personally do not like to work on Gottlieb Relay-Switches - and I hate to work on Gottlieb-Interlock-Relays (AX-Type) Switches - and I hate to work on Gottlieb Score-Motor-Switches ...

It is up to You - look at JPG, post-18: "Top green line" works. The "green line just below": It does NOT work --- NOT EVEN when the Adj-Switch is set in position-4.
So either (or both): Adj-Switch is no good (pos-2, -3, -4) and / or in the green line (more to the left): The connection to "Score-Motor-Switch-2C" is no good and/or Score-Motor-Switch-2C is no good and/ or Connection from SCM-2C to "Make-and-Brake-Switch on W-Relay" is no good. (((And maybe SCM-4C and/or SCM-4-B are faulty "also")))

When you fumble around Score-Motor-Switches: Be careful / write down on which SCM-Switch You fumbled around - and in what direction You have bent the blades. OK - looking for "broken-off" wires is not "fumbling at blades". Greetings Rolf

Hi pbm3
great, You fixed the "Coin-Problem".
10-point score problem: A "simple" relay should not stay pulling for more then one to two minutes - turn-off the pin -> let it cool-off -> then do another test etc.

Question: Does the 10-point-RELAY pull-in and stay pulling ?

The way the pins are built: 10-point-RELAY and 10-point-Score-Drum work hand in hand. (You hit a 10-point-target -> 10-Point-RELAY Gets "initial current" -> RELAY pulls-in and by this closes its "Self-Hold-Switch mounted on the RELAY". The RELAY also closes another Switch -> current flows to the Score-Drum -> Score-Drum-Coil pulls-in -> at the end of a loooong way to travel: Its plunger opens a End-of-Stroke-Switch (EOS-Sw) --- this EOS-Sw is in the "Self-Hold-Circuitry of the RELAY -> RELAY looses current and let go -> and therefore cuts "feeding the Score-Drum-Coil".

Second Question: Does the "Coil on the Score-Drum" pull ? Answer "Yes" -> look if the travelling plunger opens the EOS-Sw. Answer "No" -> Check the Normally-Open Switches (closing when relay is pulling) at the 10 point-RELAY.

Problem "Resetting Drop down Targets" - I do not know the pin (I do have a schema to look at). Questions: Do the targets reset at Game-Over ? IF "NO" -> Does it make a difference (successful / non successful resetting) when the targets are resetted at Start-up a new game ? (compared to/with "changing to next player / next ball" ?)
(((At start-up a "Switch on S-Start-Relay" does the activating - during play a "Switch on P-Add-Player-Unit-Relay" does the activating - and thats the only difference I see in the schema.

Maybe (maybe) the "Self-Hold-Switch on P-Relay" is no-good -> look at the P-Relay -> from one side of the coil a short wire runs to a Switch mounted on the relay: THIS is the Self-Hold-Switch -> securely closing ? contact-points oxidated ? wires soldered-on ? (carefully pull a bit on the wires). Greetings Rolf