New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 165566)

SPIRIT (Gottlieb 1982) - Restoration


By Gerrard17

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 45 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by mof
  • Topic is favorited by 15 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 123 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

13 (resized).jpg
12 (resized).jpg
11 (resized).jpg
9 (resized).jpg
7 (resized).jpg
8 (resized).jpg
6 (resized).jpg
4 (resized).jpg
5 (resized).jpg
3 (resized).jpg
2 (resized).jpg
1 (resized).jpg
test (resized).jpg
20161121_195702 (resized).jpg
20161119_182701 (resized).jpg
20161116_211035 (resized).jpg

#1 4 years ago

I’m finally getting around to posting my first restoration thread. I’ve done a number of restorations/shop outs that I haven’t posted about but I figured for this Spirit restoration it would be a good time to document it up on pinside. I actually purchased this machine over a year ago, and have been working on and off since then with some other projects finished in between starting Spirit and now.

I’m edging close to completion so it’s probably a bit more interesting for people now than months of time between updates!

Big thanks to the likes of Vid, Steve (blownfuse) and all the other contributors on here sharing their wealth of knowledge to the community and documenting restoration processes – definitely a lot of wise advice I’ve heeded.

So first up, the machine itself. Originally a European export, somehow found its way to Zimbabwe and then to Australia and my basement! From what I understand it was on route once upon a time but had been in storage with a hundred+ other machines for years as new games replaced them on route. The condition was pretty good except for the cabinet and the standard dust and crud you’d expect from a machine that old, stored for years. Backglass was really nice and it had been cleaned and sealed by the importer so nothing to do there, playfield was in good shape, some minor wear for its vintage but thankfully 90% of the wear was in the black areas, boards and wiring looked good but the cabinet was not it great shape. Lots of dings and scrapes and not surprisingly security was an issue in Zimbabwe so it had some pretty impressive lock bars installed across the coin door and across the base of the cabinet.

1_(resized).jpg
2_(resized).jpg

First step was just some general cleaning so I knew what I was working with and could plan out the process a bit. I started with the vacuuming then outside with the mask on and air compressor ready to blow out all the crap that was in there. God knows what the dust that came out of the cabinet was comprised of and I don’t think I want to know!

Normally I’d install a new power cord and get the game at least 90% working before I start the teardown process but my plan all along has been to put a new board set in so I knew if some issues were there I could waste a lot of time pointlessly that won’t be a problem when new boards go in. I had restored a couple of machines that came from this shipping container (same operator) in worse condition and I had only encountered very minor issues and visually everything seemed pretty standard. So off I went.

20150719_131628_(resized).jpg
20150719_131624_(resized).jpg
20150719_131606_(resized).jpg
20150719_131615_(resized).jpg
20150719_131709_(resized).jpg
20150719_131659_(resized).jpg
20151024_120907_(resized).jpg
20151024_120910_(resized).jpg

I’ll keep adding posts until I’m up to current day – going through;

• Stripping the playfield.
• Mylar removal
• Clean and touch up work
• Empty the cabinet.
• Cabinet stencils
• Cabinet repairs
• Back box
• Transformer/Cabinet Mounting boards
• Repopulating the upper pf
• Starting to repopulate the main
• Taking the coin door apart

#2 4 years ago

Niiiiice. Looks like you've got your work cut out for you.

#3 4 years ago

First step was to strip the playfield(s) and tackle the mylar.

6_(resized).jpg
5_(resized).jpg
3_(resized).jpg
4_(resized).jpg
Note the nice melted playfield rubbers..
7_(resized).jpg

Everyone hates removing mylar. I know why. I’ve done it a few times all on Gottlieb System 3’s and had a fair bit of success using the heat and peel method to get it off so I went with that again. I just used an old hairdryer my wife doesn't use and went through the arduous tasks of heating and peeling the mylar off small portions at a time.

There were some gaps where he must have run out and had to start a new roll halfway up the playfield and just past the shooter lane - a bit of extra crud build up in these places.

mylar_gap_(resized).jpg
mylar_gap2_(resized).jpg

Once I started I realized the mylar wasn’t the standard/factory stuff I’d seen on Sys3’s or maybe it was just different back on Sys80’s. It was much more like clear contact. Regardless it came off extremely well and didn’t pull ANY paint which was a nice surprise, I was super cautious around areas that had been worn but ultimately the results were great.

12_(resized).jpg

That’s probably the easiest part of removing the mylar, the glue and residue that it leaves behind is an absolute nightmare of a task. Previously I used goo gone / flour but this time I went with flour and isopropyl alcohol. The process worked really well but you really need to take a lot of time and care with it or you’ll be finding little bits of glue of the playfield every time you look at it.

glue_(resized).jpg

I found that, especially on a black playfield, hitting it with light from different angles really helps you to see any spots you’ve missed. When I went back over it I didn't use the flour, I found just the alcohol and a microfibre cloth was quick and easy and no mess.

Once I’d got the playfields clean I wrapped them in bubble wrap and set aside until I got back to them.

13_(resized).jpg
20150913_145213_(resized).jpg

#4 4 years ago

A few more pics from the tear down showing the ramp mechs and mylar doing its job protecting the pf
20150726_101134_(resized).jpg
20150726_150002_(resized).jpg
20150725_144541_(resized).jpg
20150726_150007_(resized).jpg

#5 4 years ago

Unfortunately the cabinet was pretty worn, so my next task was to strip it completely for a full re-stencil job. It would have been nice to keep it original but it just wasn’t an option.

The structural aspects of the cabinet were fine but the wear, security mods and art needed the complete fix. Once the cabinet was empty I inspected for any rot or water damage, thankfully nothing!

All the metal was set aside for polishing.

15_(resized).jpg
20150919_162011_(resized).jpg
20150919_170906_(resized).jpg
20150919_174734_(resized).jpg
20150919_174741_(resized).jpg
18_(resized).jpg
17_(resized).jpg
20_(resized).jpg
16_(resized).jpg

For some strange reasons stencil kits for a Spirit aren’t commercially available…

In hindsight I probably would have used a scanner, photoshop and printing to make the stencil creation process a lot easier but you live and learn. The process I followed was to trace the cabinet art by hand/with a ruler onto tracing paper and then use a lightbox (well-lit pinball machine) to trace the art onto contact/mylar. I could have traced directly from the pin to the contact but the white backing made it a bit difficult to get 100% accuracy so I went with tracing paper which doubled the work.

I found it good to excessively clamp and tape down the tracing paper to ensure nothing moves at all during to process.

24_(resized).jpg
23_(resized).jpg
25_(resized).jpg
26_(resized).jpg

To cut out the stencils I used either scissors or a scalpel. So far the stencils were probably the most time consuming part of the process. In the end I’ve got a stencil kit and separate tracing of all the cabinet artwork should I want to re-do anything or someone else needs a reference.

#6 4 years ago

Soooo Jealous! May the pinball force be with you and this goes as smooth as possible!!

#7 4 years ago

favorited, just the name of your city makes it worth it ^^
would love a spirit myself, good luck with the restore !

#8 4 years ago

Playfield cleaned up nice !

#9 4 years ago

Back to the cabinet, I went through a used polyfilla – wood filler to fill out all the gaps before sanding. I guess this is probably similar to Bondo for you folks state side.

Sorry I switched phones around this time and I've got to try find some more pictures of this process.

30_(resized).jpg 31_(resized).jpg

There was probably about 4 or 5 months between doing this and finally hitting it with a sander! After the first round of sanding I went back in with some more filler in a couple of spots.

sand_(resized).jpg

So a couple of weeks ago, with time being a bit of an enemy for me I got my brother in law to sand the cabinet back, he’s a tradesman so I had faith in him to get this done for me. Starting with a coarser paper on the electric hand sander and working back to a less abrasive hand sand to finish it off.

Since then I’ve hit it with the primer and its ready for its first coat of blue before the yellow, then black stencilling. (I'll add more pics as I go)

#10 4 years ago

Back to the playfield! So like I said early there was really no significant wear on the playfield and any wear was limited predominantly to the black areas. I’ve previously done playfield touch ups on gottlieb machines using the airbrush/frisket methods - as detailed in Vid’s playfield restoration. I ended up using a fine brush a lot more this time around as well as airbrushing. A lot of the touch ups were where posts had worn the playfield or in delicate areas where just a touch of black and/or a color was needed. I found just using a very small brush was a much easier method with the same outcome.

The red lightning on the upper PF is probably a good example of the type of touch ups that we're required.

77_(resized).jpg

The major area was around the window, which seems to be where most the wear occurs on this machine. The window had become slightly recessed over the years contributing to this being the major wear spot on the pf.

99_(resized).jpg

One of the things I discovered was that Gottlieb must have used very similar colors through from system 80 – system 3. I had a number of paint containers with colors I mixed when touching up Shaq, so instead of starting from scratch to match colors I looked at the red, orange, yellow and blue I had used in the past and they were close to exactly the same.

mixing_(resized).jpg

Obviously the different UV exposure made them slightly different but I was able to use them as the base to make matching a lot easier. The biggest challenge I had with Shaq was the orange (basketball on the playfield) as it is close to a fluorescent color, the createx paints I had needed a fluorescent acrylic paint to take them to this level. Thankfully my mum is a bit of an artist so had a massive array of paints I could choose from to take the createx orange where it needed to go.

All that effort to get an orange correct and you only end up needing a minuscule amount..

orange_(resized).jpg

A yellow I had used for the Shaq cabinet also made a good base for the playfield yellow on Spirit.

yellow_(resized).jpg

About a week after the touchups were done I gave it a once over with Novus #1 and a microfiber cloth before waxing it with Mothers California Gold Carnauba Wax. I know Blitz one grand is probably the best on the market for this but I was able to get this locally as a good alternative.

Wrapped this up in bubble wrap and set aside until I repopulate.

111_(resized).jpg5454_(resized).jpg

#11 4 years ago

Found a pic of the headbox when I first got the machine I forgot to add earlier..

20150619_200152_(resized).jpg

..and yes that's a VCR in the background. Cliff Em All isn't the same on dvd.

#12 4 years ago

In the background to everything with a restoration there is always lots of metal to polish and clean up, I don’t own a buffing wheel or an ultrasonic cleaner so I tend to do everything by hand.

For the most part I used Silvo or Brasso (Australian metal polishing products) or an Automotive Grade polish with a microfiber cloth. I’ve started using the buffing tool on a dremel to get the ball gates and guides nice and shiny but really I haven’t seen much difference to hand polishing.

before_after_(resized).jpg
21_(resized).jpg

For the legs I’ve got a PVC pipe with caps on both ends outside that I’ll use as a bath with around 7/1 ratio or CLR (evaporust equivalent). I leave them for 24 hours, then a rub down with alumina foil, hose off then dry down with a mf cloth.

20160424_140042_(resized).jpg

I’ve also used this for the lock down bar and receiver and some of the larger metal components if there is some rust. For the lockdown bar it seems it also helps get all the adhesive off from the foam seal which I’ve replaced.

Other adhoc things are just remember to bag all the different hardware and label it so putting everything back together again isn’t a painful process.

22_(resized).jpg

#13 4 years ago

Onto the backbox light board / spinning disc. As you can see this had the usual discoloration and toasty look happening around the bulbs.

33_(resized).jpg
34_(resized).jpg

I tried to clean it but who was I kidding it wasn’t going to come up any good, the other side was all good obviously not exposed to the heat from the bulbs. With everything stripped off it I put a bunch of old bulbs in the sockets, taped it off and hit it with a high gloss white. While I had all the displays off I cleaned them all a PCB cleaner before reinstalling - I needed to replace one with NOS.

20160625_103854_(resized).jpg
36_(resized).jpg
20160625_104726_(resized).jpg
20160625_104717_(resized).jpg
20160625_101154_(resized).jpg

I had purchased the repro spinning disc to install along with Comet 1 LED frosted bulbs for the backglass. I’m not sure if these are the bulbs I’ll go with at the end but I don’t want to fill it with super bright LED’s as it might detract from the art. I’ll revisit this all toward the end when I can see what it looks like.

20160625_105110_(resized).jpg
20160625_105312_(resized).jpg
20160625_105916_(resized).jpg
35_(resized).jpg

I was happy with how it turned out with the gloss white and metal parts polished. One of the things I’m curious about is how the spinning disc looks in action. I’ve read there was some initial issues with the reproduction disc and the visual effect being a bit different from the original. I’ve still got the original and it’s in pretty good shape so I will have to test that further when it’s done.

While I was at it I removed everything from the PCB Mounting Board and did it in a high gloss black. Goodbye old boards.. hello new!

20160625_145947_(resized).jpg
20160625_152818_(resized).jpg

20160626_152031_(resized).jpg
pwr1_(resized).jpg

#14 4 years ago

So the last couple of areas are getting closer the current day status of where I’m at. Last week I finally decided to repopulate the upper playfield to give me some visual motivation to kick my ass a bit.

Usually to repopulate a playfield I’ll be working at it with my ipad, scanning through my pictures and reference material to ensure everything is put back to factory standard and although effective it is just time consuming to do it this way. That and I’ll find an area that I didn’t take good pictures of then will have to sift through all my pics or do more research and it’s just a PITA! So this time I used the playfield map out of the manual to create a cheat sheet / guide to what needs to go back and where. I had a bit of down time at work where I could go through all my pictures and reference material so when I got to the hands on part it was a massive time saver.

Playfield_Layout_-_with_key_(resized).png

For the clear posts I purchased replacements all new, the old ones were pretty ratty. I think I’d read somewhere on pinside that you could bleach old posts to get them looking good again so I tried this anyways just so I could have some spares. The outcome wasn’t too bad..

37_(resized).jpg
38_(resized).jpg

I ended up having to use a couple of these in the end as I was a few shy.

Repopulating was pretty straightforward and quick, posts, rubbers, ball guides, gates, plastics and voila!

20160329_170454_(resized).jpg
39_(resized).jpg
40_(resized).jpg
41_(resized).jpg
42_(resized).jpg

The reproduction plastics are really great, thank god these got reproduced. Once I put those on and actually got an idea of how the finished product was going to look it was quite a motivating moment! I’ve looked over these pics a few times… It’s just great to get one step closer to finished.

#15 4 years ago

Once I repopulated the upper playfield I was pretty keen to get the main playfield going. This is bringing me right up to the current state of things. As you can see this picture was after all the posts had been installed. I’ve probably glossed over some of the details on the playfield, where flippers have been replaced, new stand up targets installed, new foam backing for stand ups, drop targets replaced. I’ll look at providing some more detail around all of this in retrospect.

43_(resized).jpg
20160728_204938_(resized).jpg

The other parts I’m grappling with at the moment is the coin door, it’s carrying a bit of wear and up to this point all I have down is take it apart to start cleaning/polishing.

45_(resized).jpg
44_(1)_(resized).jpg

I’ve read that the Sys80 coin doors are some of the most complex and I can’t argue with that. There are a heap of parts to break down and clean and I must say this isn’t the most fun and rewarding part of the restoration!

On the plus side I found heaps of coins, downside is they are Zimbabwe dollars...

1 week later
#16 4 years ago

Great project and photos! Did you clear the playfield after you touched it up?

Jody

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from tandem2:

Great project and photos! Did you clear the playfield after you touched it up?
Jody

I went back and forth in my head trying to decide if I should or not.

My problem was who could do it, I don't back myself enough to do it well and we're pretty limited in options for a quality pinball clear coat person in Australia, I would have had to wait a long time and ship it interstate. If something happened to it I'd never be able to find another one. Also it's only going to get home use for the rest of it's life so as long as it's looked after, cleaned and waxed often it shouldn't have any hassles.

#18 4 years ago

I would be extremely wary of any planking, which I seem to have seen pretty evident in a few places. Just painting over the existing ink without sealing it is just asking for trouble; although if you are keeping the machine in a temperature AND humidity controlled environment, it will last longer than without it, but the playfield will continue to wear, regardless.

From what I've seen though, you've done a bang-up good job of restoring it to the level you currently have it!

My Spirit playfield has been disassembled since 2011, when I sent my main playfield out to a popular restorer (so-called) who completely ruined it. Only the clearcoat on it is decent. The repairs and touchups plain suck. They even filled in (with wood filler) a post hole that is SUPPOSED to be on the playfield.

Now, I'm waiting for Vid, or HEP, or maybe even Kruzman to repair the "work" that this other so-called restorer attempted, but failed miserably at.

Getting one of the pros to fix it has been a damn rollercoaster ride so far, also.

I hope I don't end up parting the damn thing out.

#19 4 years ago

Main playfield repopulated now. Waiting on new bumper cap and lane guides.
a_(resized).jpg
b_(resized).jpg

#20 4 years ago

There definitely is some planking going on across the playfield and a CC would've been ideal. I considered even re-mylaring after waxing it, but might just end up doing the centre of the playfield where a lot of the touch ups were.

Such a bummer to hear about your PF, the time delay and cost must be such a pain in the ass. I guess you really need the best to work on the rarer games with the lack of reference material out there to support the work. I had my PF sitting there for months while I debated what to do - ultimately it was do the best possible with the finances available and without risk of doing something that can't be undone, then play it! Maybe cross my fingers for a repro.. haha

Definitely don't part it out.. just put it together and enjoy

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from Gerrard17:

I went back and forth in my head trying to decide if I should or not.
My problem was who could do it, I don't back myself enough to do it well and we're pretty limited in options for a quality pinball clear coat person in Australia, I would have had to wait a long time and ship it interstate. If something happened to it I'd never be able to find another one. Also it's only going to get home use for the rest of it's life so as long as it's looked after, cleaned and waxed often it shouldn't have any hassles.

You are correct!

Great job!

1 week later
#22 4 years ago
Quoted from Gerrard17:

I went back and forth in my head trying to decide if I should or not.
My problem was who could do it, I don't back myself enough to do it well and we're pretty limited in options for a quality pinball clear coat person in Australia, I would have had to wait a long time and ship it interstate. If something happened to it I'd never be able to find another one. Also it's only going to get home use for the rest of it's life so as long as it's looked after, cleaned and waxed often it shouldn't have any hassles.

Great project! Playfield looks awesome.

I wish I still had my Spirit... sold it years ago, before I knew anything about restoring a playfield (and before its value skyrocketed ).

I would definately clearcoat the playfield though. It just 'finishes' the machine, in many ways. If you dare to do it yourself, I think Spraymax be the best way to do it. I've done 4 playfields with it, and love the results. There's a club for it here on Pinside: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-spraymax-2k-auto-clear-in-a-can-club

I'm going to use it on my Fireball II project as well. I'm documenting that restoration on Pinside as best as I can. You can always follow my topic to see how it turns out. And decide for yourself if it's your cup of tea. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fireball-ii-to-turn-a-lucky-garage-find-into-a-living-room-pin

Have fun with Spirit!

2 weeks later
#23 4 years ago

It's been a little while between updates but the shop out has continued... The cabinet is resprayed, and the headbox and front of the main cabinet re-stencilled. It's not perfect and will need some minor airbrush touch ups where some of the black has seeped under the stencil etc.. Originally I considered having a carpenter build a new cabinet to use so I've kept all the stencil templates but ultimately I'm happy with how this has turned out. With all the sharp lines and points in the yellow I was concerned that the stencil would fail miserably.

20160810_094704 (resized).jpg20160810_095312 (resized).jpg20160813_131737 (resized).jpg20160820_123620 (resized).jpg20160820_123629 (resized).jpg20160820_123634 (resized).jpg

The headbox has been repopulated, and I've done the mounting board and speaker grills in black to keep a Blue/Black/Yellow theme throughout.

20160821_113018 (resized).jpg20160821_113700 (resized).jpg20160829_112933 (resized).jpg20160903_135350 (resized).jpg20160903_135901 (resized).jpg20160829_120643 (resized).jpg

Also the upper and main playfields have been re-united!

20160817_203700 (resized).jpg20160817_203715 (resized).jpg

#24 4 years ago

Lookin' good!

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from Gerrard17:

It's been a little while between updates but the shop out has continued... The cabinet is resprayed, and the headbox and front of the main cabinet re-stencilled. It's not perfect and will need some minor airbrush touch ups where some of the black has seeped under the stencil etc.. Originally I considered having a carpenter build a new cabinet to use so I've kept all the stencil templates but ultimately I'm happy with how this has turned out. With all the sharp lines and points in the yellow I was concerned that the stencil would fail miserably.

The headbox has been repopulated, and I've done the mounting board and speaker grills in black to keep a Blue/Black/Yellow theme throughout.

Also the upper and main playfields have been re-united!

Hmm a bit a shame that the paint has seeped under the stencil thats why I used ( home made ) stickers.
Afterwards " sealed " with a 2K clearcoat, turned out realy nice ...

IMG_2950 (resized).JPG

IMG_2951 (resized).JPG

IMG_2949 (resized).JPG

#26 4 years ago

That did come up really good, from the photos and with the clear coat you can't tell it is stencils.

1 month later
#27 4 years ago

It's been another little while between updates; where I am at now is that the cabinet has been finished now with the 2 sides receiving the black and yellow stencil. With the head box requiring some re-work I went with a different approach by getting the side art stencils copied onto thin card to use for paiting and adhered using a low tack temporary adhesive to easily re position. This worked out much better, there are a couple of areas I'll re-work, on the leg of the people one is a bit thin/thick, but ultimately it was a much better process. I don't think I'll ever make a stencil again, such a time consuming process.

I've put the head back on, it's probably the first time she's been back together in years!

On the inside the wood mount boards have been resprayed in the yellow and black tubing for the main harnesses. Maybe a little offensive to the purists but I've kept the blue, yellow and black throughout.

2 (resized).jpg

1 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg

#28 4 years ago

Finally managed to get new pop bumper caps and lane guides from Best of Pinball in Germany. So next step will be adding those to the PF, reconnecting everything and powering it up. Hopefully the next update will be a bit longer and have a game play video to accompany it!

Here's a few more pics of the stencils / cab.

20161005_192537 (resized).jpg
20161012_205335 (resized).jpg20161005_192535 (resized).jpg

#29 4 years ago

We played a restored one in Cleveland. It was our favorite pin of the event. Nice to see another out there.

#30 4 years ago

I saw some pics of that one on here, looked very nice!

#31 4 years ago
Quoted from Gerrard17:

I saw some pics of that one on here, looked very nice!

You make me curious

Looking good so far your spirit !

1 month later
#32 3 years ago

Very brief update, the playfield has been put back into the machine and it's been powered on for the first time in years! Now the fun begins! More pictures and adventure to follow soon.
20161116_211035 (resized).jpg
20161116_211043 (resized).jpg

#33 3 years ago

Looking good!

#34 3 years ago

So now I'm entering into the real adventure in getting everything running and dialled in. I first powered it up without the cable from the power board to the cpu . I got all the back box lights firing in attract style and the motor rotating the disc.

Then I got the cable and hooked it to the cpu and turned it on. Upon turning it on all the slings fire a couple of times and the slings playfield GI lights fire with them. Then nothing on the playfield except the display. All the displays including on the playfield are on the whole time with all zeros. And the back box lights and disc spin in attract mode. You can coin up but the service and start buttons do nothing. Slam switch is closed, tilt switch is open so all good there. No fuses are blown.

My thoughts were with the coin door having some issues so I powered up the machine with all connectors removed from the CPU then went about adding one by one. Sure enough A1-J5 (from the coin door) had things running a bit funky.

So I went through all the wires runnings from the connector to the diode board ensuring the colours were right and there we no issues, then again from the coin door components into the diode board. All was good except where the left coin switch was removed the return 7 was not connected resulting in loss of continuity and no play or test switch response. Soldered those back together and heat shrunk and play/test now worked fine.

20161119_182701 (resized).jpg

Here is a video of it running through the test mode once this was resolved.

test (resized).jpg

Next issue was one of the slings locking on and some issues with a few of the coils. Upon further inspection under the playfield I could see one of the wires going to the transistors had detached and another transistor had failed when testing with the DMM. I figured it would be the best bet to replace all the 2N5879 transistors, fortunately I had a big supply of parts for Great Plains so I had them all on hand. Also noticed A9-P1/A9-J1 connectors were hardly connected so put those back together.

20161121_195702 (resized).jpg

Hopefully this evening I can have a play/test and see what the next issue is to look at.

#35 3 years ago

Found a little bit of time this morning before work to run through a couple of test games to generally see how the switches are registering, how it progresses to multiball, are drop targets going down nice and smooth, flipper strength etc. The machine is sitting flat so I haven't played it for real yet.

It seems that mainly I just need to go around the PF and adjust some switches that I've missed along the way and a couple of other things. My list is:

Capture saucer (next to the 1) not registering the switch – hopefully just a switch adjustment
Kicker (above target 2 and 3) continuously fires after being hit – check switch if not just that then troubleshoot
Right kicker (below 4 target) continuously fires when machine is powered on - troubleshooting
Pop Bumper switch not registering, needs adjusting
Main PF drop targets getting are touching on the rubber behind them when hit so I need to adjust this so they drop perfect
Ball trough switch needs adjusting

I also need to finish replacing all the under pf transistors and I've also got some new roll through plastics so can get rid of the blue place holders and put lane guides in.

Here's a quick video of it going into multiball mode, hopefully in the next week or so I can post some proper gameplay clips!

2 weeks later
#36 3 years ago

Following on from last update everything is running quite well. I'd spoken with Fred when getting the new board set and he suggested with those the ground mods would be necessary but I've got ahead and done the ground mods anyways now. I'm having issues with the pop bumper still so will most likely repin the connector to the board. Here are the latest pics, fair to say I'm pretty much finished now just got to polish up the legs and put them on and little bits here and there.

3 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg1 (resized).jpg5 (resized).jpg6 (resized).jpg7 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg8 (resized).jpg9 (resized).jpg11 (resized).jpg12 (resized).jpg13 (resized).jpg

#37 3 years ago

Top notch work!
Looks great, that coin door really turned out nice.

If they make a playfield protector for that I would try one.

#38 3 years ago

looking great. Looks as good as the one that was at expo.

#39 3 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Top notch work!
Looks great, that coin door really turned out nice.
If they make a playfield protector for that I would try one.

Thanks. On the outside it looks alright but inside is pretty bad, I'd replace it once a good one comes up local.

A playfield protector would be ideal actually I didn't even think of that, I saw some machines with them recently and it looks quite good. I considered mylar but I couldn't bring myself to put down something so adhesive on the playfield again after the effort to pull it off.

#40 3 years ago

Looks amazing! One of my favorite machines

#41 3 years ago
Quoted from Gerrard17:

Thanks. On the outside it looks alright but inside is pretty bad, I'd replace it once a good one comes up local.
A playfield protector would be ideal actually I didn't even think of that, I saw some machines with them recently and it looks quite good. I considered mylar but I couldn't bring myself to put down something so adhesive on the playfield again after the effort to pull it off.

Yeah, they really work well on playfields with good artwork, but have cupped inserts. In your case, it would protect your touchups & effectively smooth out the edges on the bonus window. I'm really happy with the one I put on my Bally Old Chicago.

3 weeks later
#42 3 years ago

A bit more game play video, didn't get the chance to do much over x-mas as I've been working on my Cyclone.

Remaining issues I'm having are the pop bumper and intermittent GI. Hopefully will get some time to get that sorted in the next week.

#44 3 years ago

Very nice work. Would love one of these some day.

#45 3 years ago

It would be cool to see a game play video re-shot with the game pitched at 6'
-mof

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
7,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Lima, OH
$ 259.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 999.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
$ 52.00
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
$ 50.00
$ 349.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 18.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 15.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 9,099.00
Pinball Machine
Classic Game Rooms
$ 65.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
$ 29.50
Playfield - Plastics
Pinball Haus
From: $ 34.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Medisinyl Mods
From: $ 4.00
Playfield - Decals
UpKick Pinball
$ 29.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 24.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside