Hi Bill, Welcome to pinside!!

If the 1 point relay locks on as soon as you start a new game, you almost certainly have a stuck playfield switch.

Where is the buzzing coming from? The coin lockout coil is a common culprit.

I'm pretty sure the bell in the photo is the 1 pt bell. There is a larger, 100 pt bell in another corner of the back box. Beware that the bell solenoid that is stuck on should not be left on for more than a few seconds. It will easily start to overheat and melt the nylon sleeve and do other bad things.

The 1 point bell is driven by the N/1 point relay (in red) as shown below:
Spin A Card 1 pt relay (resized).jpg
The first step is to establish whether the N/1 point relay is also stuck on as HowardR suggested. It's one of the 4 relays mounted just above the bell, along with the L/100 point and M/10 point relays. If your relay labels are missing you can identify the N/1 point relay by the wire colors soldered to the relay coil lugs (Slate-White-Red and Black).

If the N relay is not stuck on the switch on the relay (in red above) that drives the bell may be stuck closed.

If the N relay is stuck on then you need to find and examine the nine switches circled in red that can cause the N relay to fire. The N switch at the top of the schematic is one of the switches mounted to the N relay itself. The next four switches are on the playfield, likely behind rebound rubbers. Again use wire colors if you need to to verify that you're looking at the right switch. The two "kicking rubber" or sling shot switches are mounted either behind the sling shot rebound rubber, or below the playfield. The I and J switches are mounted to the green and yellow pop bumper relays, not the pop bumpers themselves. They're likely mounted under the playfield.

/Mark

If you look closely at https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2288&picno=8889&zoom=1 for example you can see switches on either side of the playfield behind rebound rubbers that are not labeled: on the left just below the red J target and on the right just below the 4 target. Those are likely 1 pt switches. There may be another pair just below the top arch in the rebound rubbers there.

What's the state of these 4 switches on the Reset (DB) relay when this happens?

pasted_image (resized).png

Are those 4 switches open or closed during game play?
If you run the motor after reset and scoring some points, does the score reset then too?

Probably mentioned already but PBR could likely hook you up with the schematics.

The relevant parts of the reset sequence are

1) Pressing replay button activates the Start relay (S)
2) A switch on the Start relay trips the Control Bank's Start relay (SB)
3) A switch on the Control Bank's Start relay fires the 2 Bank reset solenoids
4) This latches the Reset relay (DB)
5) Switches on the Reset relay (DB) reset the score reels
6) When all 4 score reels are on zero, DB should trip

If you carefully track this process during game reset, I think you'll find that everything works correctly until step 6 (tripping the DB relay on the Control bank) which is not happening

How far is it getting in the sequence I listed above?

Your last photo shows the control bank of trip relays (mounted below the playfield at the back end) in its service position. Ordinarily the bank should be rolled forward so the wing nuts on either end sit inside the brackets that are mounted to the playfield. (see https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2288&picno=34459&zoom=1 for example). If you're running the game with the bank open that might be part of your problem. The SB Armature switch (the lone switch on the underside of the trip bank in your photo) for example might not work as intended with the trip bank in this position. Other switches may be forced open or closed depending on the position of the playfield.

Was this game moved with the trip bank unsecured as shown? That might explain some of your issues. The bank flailing about inside the game might have mangled switches in the bank or on the relays below. The score motor has a similar ability to swing up for servicing if the hair pin is removed and can suffer the same way when not secured.

BTW, since you're new to the hobby, I'd encourage you to read up on how these games work. There's plenty of good information in this forum and on other sites like:
- https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair
- http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm
- https://www.funwithpinball.com/ (shameless plug)
and plenty of others.

The suggestions you'll get in this topic will make a lot more sense if you develop some understanding on how the devices should work.

Can you clarify when and how your score reels are resetting? It sounds like they all successfully reset to zero at the start of a new game. What happens when they reset after that? Do they reset all the way back to zero from any value, or do they just take five steps forward (e.g. from 3 to 8)?

I think HowardR is suggesting that if your DB relay is not tripping once the score reels have reset to zero, then your score reels will advance unexpectedly throughout the game. If you look at his schematic above all four score reels have a circuit through switches on the DB relay that also goes back to a common "Motor 1A switch". Any time the score motor runs during a game the Motor 1A switch will close 5 times for each 1/3 turn of the score motor. If those DB relay switches are closed and the score reel is not already showing a zero, those five pulses will advance each score reel five times, or fewer if the score reaches zero with fewer than five pulses.

There are four normally closed switches and one make/break switch on the DB relay in the control bank. Examine the relay with the power off and figure out how to manually trip it and reset it. Once you've figured that out examine the five switches. Each switch should change state (open to closed or closed to open) between the tripped and not tripped positions of the relay. If they're not doing that with the power off they may need adjustment.

The solder tabs or wires of those switches may also be shorted so look for signs of things touching that shouldn't be around the DB relay.

The fact that your flippers drop out briefly as the scores reset indicates that your DB relay may be firing after reset has completed. Watch the relay as you manually hit targets to see if it does trip. If it does we'll need to understand why. That may be due to the score reel runout switches being stuck closed or shorted and might be the next thing to check.

On the reset bank , is there an switch actuator missing ?

Spin a card trip bank a (resized).jpg

Spin a card trip bank b (resized).jpg

Yep, it would look that way, heres a couple of pics from my spare SAC playfield:

20210811_104136 (resized).jpg

20210811_104148 (resized).jpg

Yes, that’s a common thing when you get to a maximum count.

Dave

this doesn't make sense.

the pin switches typically push a switch stack when the unit is reset and/or when the unit is at the top step (the missing tooth spot).

in your pic below, the open-at-reset switch (green arrow) is probably ok. The switch should close when the unit steps once.

the other switch is open, and the peg that's going to push the blade when it steps up far enough is gonna ... make it more open?

the switch the red arrow is pointing at should be closed. What the affect is I dunno .. which unit is it?

often the open-at-top-step switch disconnects the step-up coil, so if the stepper doesn't step all the way, check that switch. Switches that get shoved when the unit is reset tend to be involved with the game reset functions.

the common exception is the replay/credit unit. The operator could move the open-at-top peg to a few locations to set a limit on the number of credits, so the peg location doesn't match the missing tooth/flat spot.

spin-a-card pin switches (resized).jpg