Capcom had them all beat, it would tell you what light bulbs had burned out.

I received a new Godzilla yesterday and upon power up, I was greeted with with the Overcurrent node 9. Running diagnostics it was I-Red(x9), or 9 bulb group 163. Removing the bulbs, I still got the error. Disconnecting CN15, I measured a short across the light mount. Also disconnected, as expected on power-up, the error went away. So somewhere in that look, or in at least one connector lies a short.

Not wanting to hack into a day old machine, I put the bulbs in and powered it up. To my surprise, no error, bulbs in group 163 work.

You may have a shorted LED bulb. Try removing all of them in group 163 and trying them one by one somewhere else on the machine.

IF they all check out, you likely have a socket with a bit of metal in it shorting it (often a piece of broken spring). Check all the bulb sockets inside and out in group 163 with good lighting and magnification.

As per PinMonk post and timlah79 image below this is what you are looking for - taking the LEDs out and putting in bulbs may have simply move the metal shard enough to stop it shorting, however with the vibrations in the machine it'll most likely reoccur

LED socket (resized).png

Exactly. But first I'd take all the bulbs out in the affected section and test them one at a time in a known good section to make sure it's not just a shorted bulb, which can do the same or similar things. Then if those check out, proceed to looking for a piece shorting the socket.

I just took delivery of a brand new JP Premium and after about 20 games got the Node 9 over current detection.

Given the previous posts should I direct the dealer to just check every LED for the short ?

This thread details how to confirm if it is a light string and which particular one that has the short - see the last pic in the first post. So you can try working through it yourself (and ask questions here) while waiting for the dealer's tech - it's good to get comfortable which troubleshooting issues on your machine

You don't need to check every LED. The error will tell you which section has the short, and that's the only one that needs to be checked. Post a pic of your error screen and I'll tell you where to look

just wanted to thank this community for this thread. had overcurrent node 8, that shut off the left side white GI on my SW pro. unplugged CL15 on node 8 board which cleared the alert and then went through the white lights checked the sockets and changed bulbs. there was one socket with alot going on around it...surrounded by other screws and metal...my guess it was touching intermittently there and causing the short. when i screwed the socket back in carefully making sure it had no contact with adjacent metal the issue has been resolved.

other bonus is that i swapped stock bulbs with to comet optimax lights and the white gi is much brighter now

pinball is hard...pinside makes it easier.

I’m going through this same exact issue on my Rush premium (both errors) and this thread has been extremely helpful. Thank you all!

This post has been extremely helpful in isolating my issue. Appreciate everyone’s input. Nonetheless, I’m stuck.

I have a LE Deadpool that is having a similar issue with CN15 on Node 9 (the same overcurrent issue). I’m also getting the same trough issue which could be a phantom error.

Some unique symptoms: balls will autoshoot randomly at the start of a ball, start of the game the ball might not shoot but give you ~90,000 points and lock you out of selecting the top lane skillshot light.

My error is on backpanel GI. If anyone has any recommendations on where to start looking for a short(s), or the logic/explanation on how to determine where based on the schematics, that would be greatly appreciated.

Light reference ID 156 for Backpanel GI points to Ret. Pin 7 Wht Blk and Src. Pin 3 Yel Blk. I guess just start following these wires?

Did it always have this problem or is it new?

Can you take a picture and post all overcurrent error screens it puts up?

Problem is new. Errors below:

79AD4EC9-170E-4108-BF8B-F70037BD4D11 (resized).jpeg

7E2C4D6F-8C1F-4C24-AE7B-AD685BD8A374 (resized).jpeg

EB7F6824-0ACF-4E57-9207-B0B5FF80DFE9 (resized).jpeg

Do you have any fish paper?

No, but I can purchase some if that’ll help.

PinMonk you are wonderful — thank you. I will report back tomorrow.

Paper didn’t fix it. Though perhaps I’m not doing something correctly… I didn’t take the flipper off — just slide paper under. When that didn’t fix it, I took the eight 1/4 screws out and got paper in between a bit better. Still resulted in node 9 overcurrent protection.

Additionally, removing the 13 bulbs does not remove the error.

Obviously, disconnecting CN15 from node 9 gets rid of the error (which I neglected to explicitly state the first post).

So you're down to leaving the 13 bulbs out and taking a close picture of each socket with bright lighting, then zooming in on the picture to see if you can see any debris in there besides the spring.

Doh… completely wrote that off. Yup. Thanks for the friendly reminder.

Checked all 13 light bulb sockets. The top 6 are rather easy to inspect. Look fine. The bottom 7 are a tad rough to get pictures of — but each enough to inspect with a flashlight. I really can’t see anything… :/

What’s next? Blow them out with compressed air? Contact cleaner? Yeesh.

For what it’s worth, I’ve only had this machine since late September. I think remember seeing that error early on, but I didn’t fully understand the machine at the time.

Anyway, thanks for all the help. I’m sure I’ll figure it out eventually.

You can't do a visual inspection alone. You have to take a picture so you can blow it up. The bit causing the issue can be like 1mm, and easy to miss without magnification.

But if you've had the problem since the beginning, it's possible that there's an assembly error where an errant blob of solder dropped or there's a loose-ish wire on the daisy chain of GI lights for the backboard, so you might want to take a photo or three of the back side, zoom in on that, and look at the bottom side of the sockets

Makes sense. I was able to take pictures and zoom in on the front 6. There’s a few suspect pieces perhaps? Between the T-Rex and Juggernaut lights and maybe between Juggernaut and Mystique. I attached what I got pictures of and I’ll try to get some of the bottom 7. Might require bending the metal brackets for lights away from the backboard.

9DA4F614-4CA9-4848-A3D2-9C0EAD4DB9EF.jpeg

BC52D8C3-8BCC-47ED-99A9-E8B8163D58E2.jpeg

EAC140A7-FF3B-4A71-97BC-934B21D4AA94.jpeg

2A356096-AB22-4E97-B476-A493E9FD7AE4.jpeg

4E2E0C65-8FDE-489C-B6CC-256AFEE3F90B.jpeg

D0328B8B-9409-40B1-A3DB-6845E4E743A4.jpeg

EBC91828-DB49-4DD8-9629-79BAFECE2D6D.jpeg

E485FDC5-F59E-4B2F-ACC1-9A595DFEA2C1.jpeg

A5F7298E-BAF6-4552-BAF1-2C6D282743BF.jpeg

C0C7506C-FCBD-40DA-B37A-252D906A87F4.jpeg

F36927D9-E441-4C63-880B-8A1B7EA1C962.jpeg

6AF954D8-4F31-4DDE-A7D0-BE9E4BB6B9AD.jpeg

D25183E6-D3D3-4750-8356-4E492D3D2626.jpeg

7A25C8C6-2E02-4E95-8B5F-DB4BD8F8958A.jpeg

2A6E700B-5C47-4E8E-9445-698367C15D9B.jpeg

5CE2E2BD-CC25-4356-886B-F57A3D15846A.jpeg

6660CE99-D230-4A77-A29F-C42292262B82.jpeg

CFEF3A06-FEC0-47AE-B04C-B21DB79DDF59.jpeg

CD8D9633-3217-49EB-A48C-07600BFCEEFD.jpeg

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B8C7961A-FB96-4746-BCD5-F634D9A99637.jpeg

Darn, was too late to delete the photos from that post. I uploaded them all to imgur with new photos:

https://imgur.com/a/CZEGRcE
https://imgur.com/a/NyFpTOY

Yeah, the T-Rex/Juggernaut one might be suspect. When you're taking pictures close, on some phones you can hold your finger on the focal point on the screen for a couple seconds to do a focus/aperature lock so they're sharper.

Some of them are me trying to do that and some not. I couldn’t tell much of a difference between the two. I’m on an iPhone 14 pro too, so the camera is brand new.

I uploaded around 80 pictures. And deleted over 100. Ha.

I can try and get some more if you think they’re too unclear. I went through all of the photos and couldn’t really see any other issues. Maybe some of the solder points are suspect… but solder is often not pretty. My partner took a bunch too. She didn’t have much better luck with quality/clarity of photos (she’s on a 13 pro fwiw).

I got her photos. Only 5 of the 7 bottom ones came out clear from her photos. So only 11 of 13 are here, ha…

https://imgur.com/a/rsarWyn

If you're too close, focus lock won't matter because it just can't focus closer than a certain amount.

Did you reduce the pictures to post them on imgur? The backboard ones are 2048x1536 which isn't that big when you're looking for small details. I think the max res on iphone 14 is 8064 x 6048, like 4x more, which would help.

Do you have a multimeter?

No, I didn’t reduce any. Just cropped my face out of a few (hence the awkward rectangular shape of a few). I took some close and some from a bit back.

I do have a multimeter!

If you set your multimeter to continuity, (power off) you could put one probe on the ground side of a 156 socket where the wire connects and then touch the hot side on each of the 156 GI sockets to see if there's a short somewhere. You shouldn't get continuity between them.

Did you make any progress on this?

Not yet, hoping to in the next few days. Will keep you posted

Alright, so I’m not sure I’m doing this correctly. I tested every positive with every negative. No continuity.

It’s likely I’m just ignorant… But I’m not sure where the ground is. Unless you just meant the negative. I think that’s how it works in DC. Or I guess better stated, the negative and ground are the same thing?

Either way, I disconnected the CN15 and tested each positive to each negative. Nothing.

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My fish paper came in and I decided to try and install it under the right flipper since wires were touching the bracket. Got it installed, put one bulb back in. Turned it on… bulb lit up. Error gone.

I put the other 12 bulbs… error again. So I took the same 12 out to prepare to test each socket. Error still. The 1 that lit up before didn’t lit up again. Sigh. Thought I got it.

It's possible the placement of the led in the socket makes the short manifest? Possibly check with multimeter for shorts with leds in socket as well?

Is that GI bundle on a connector?

Basically you're just testing to see if there's a short from ground to hot on the wire run. So put the black probe on the ground wire of the first bulb in the chain and then touch the red wire to the hot side of each socket. It's tough because they had the legs wrapped with shrink, so you'll have to angle the probe in past the shrink on the base of the socket to get to metal. Also, make sure your tone is enabled on the multimeter so it will beep when there's continuity.

That said, the fact that it worked one time when you put the bulbs back in makes me think it is a small amount of debris in one of the sockets, and putting one of the bulbs in shifted it so it worked once. ONCE. I didn't see anything in the pictures you posted, but there were still shadowed areas in some of the sockets, especially near the bottom, so it may have been hiding there.

I believe if I do this, no matter what I do, the circuit will complete between the positive and negative because it’ll connect through the bulb.

Yes, it’s on CN15. And there’s a connector that combines CN14 and CN15.

Ok, I’ll try again.

Just to be thorough, this is what I did: Unplugged CN15 from Node 9. Removed all bulbs. Then tested with black probe on a white wire and red probe on each yellow wire.

1D92142D-8084-4ABA-9EC7-7FC4BDECC32A (resized).jpeg

This light is on CN15 and it’s flickering… maybe?

https://imgur.com/a/YJ7AC8I

Updated: pulled it, reset. Still overcurrent error…

B094C75C-9125-4731-946E-7EE6D242E975 (resized).jpeg

I agree with PinMonk. I had a similar thing happen on my Deadpool , but was left GI. There was a small bit of solder in the bottom of one of the light sockets. Looking at your pictures of your sockets, the third from the bottom (Megaladon bulb?) looks like it has a shiny blob of something at the bottom, can't be sure from the pics though.

Update: took this wire out of CN15 - no longer getting the Backpanel GI error or the Trough error! So it’s definitely on the Backpanel GI. It was causing the phantom trough error, the auto shooting, random points before shooting, etc. That’s all gone now. Just no backpanel lights at the moment, ha.

When checking the positive and negatives on the backpanel GI (and unplugging the connector), there’s about 12 ohms showing between all connections. I think it should be open loop… so there’s definitely a short if I understand correctly. I think it’s likely time to unsolder and resolder all of the bulb sockets. Can’t find anything in the sockets. Took all of the zipties off, couldn’t find any seemingly damaged wires. Nothing of note for shorting…

https://imgur.com/a/IB4ENy4

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At least you have it narrowed down to the backpanel itself now, and not the other three possible areas on that connector. Sucks that this is so tedious, but you're closing in on the solution.

Hopefully going to be soldering this week or next and providing further updates. As soon as I get some time.

Can I ask for some help here? Using this amazing thread, I was able to diagnose an Node 9 overcurrent in a Led Zepp premium. De-soldiered the GI housing and it has a dead short across the tabs. I've looked with a magnifying glass and nothing is obvious, so I'm assuming it's beneath the paper insulators.

I was just going to replace it, but calling Game Exchange..... they don't stock them and would have to order one from Stern. (really??)

Is there a way I can take this apart and find what's making connection? If you rotate the housing top, it breaks continuity but I don't want to leave a faulty component in the pin.

Thanks. And to those who posted on Page 1 and 2 a huge thank you. I would have eventually gotten here, but you saved me so much time with a well thought out, systematic approach.

Just get a new socket from Pinball Life for less than $2. They have a number of types in stock now, I'm sure one matches the one you're replacing. Like this one?

https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-short-mounting-bracket-for-stern-gi-lighting.html

It may just be an issue of the insulation between the layers having a tear in it, or a burr in the metal of the part that is being insulated is poking through. If you've narrowed it down to that socket, and nothing is obviously wrong visually, I'd just replace it.

Order some replacement coil stops for Stern while you're at it so you're not wasting the shipping on a couple sockets. With Stern, you'll need them eventually...

Great.

Thank you so much.

Update: bad socket isolated. Removed. Ordering new socket. All of the remaining work now.

Thanks for following up on this! Glad you have the problem cornered.

Hey PinMonk stumbled upon this thread as I was having problems with my node 8 resetting in the middle of games on my rush pro. I noticed when I first set up my rush the spirit of the radio light was dim or off. I forgot about it as it started working fine after a few hundred plays. As a result I was suspecting that light board that contains the spirit of the radio light may be the problem. I unplugged the CN3 connector from the Node 8 board and the problem went away. Do you have any idea what I should be looking for on that board that may resolve this problem.

If you go into the system menu you're not getting any error messages related to the overcurrent? If not, try running a node test on the system diagnostics and see if you can get an error that will narrow down where to look. LMK.