That was a hard job using Minwax Polycrylic (acrylic) and that pic was taken prior to wet sanding. I only use 2K now, the polycrylic will only lay down to bare wood. I actually put the pf on a slope so that some of the major offenders would slide under the apron.

It was already done that way from the factory, I believe it was a factory sample pf it had a much nicer wood grain on the back. I added a several coats to remove some lite surface scratches and machine polished it out.

I can do touch-ups if needed, I like to use Testors enamel paints because they don't bleed under the clear.

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Who's using sharpies for fine detail I use a .25 Copic Multiliner ink pen (waterproof) and Testors enamel paints are WAY better than whatever dime store acrylic paint you're using dude and does not bleed.

This entire window frame and the 2X insert on this Sexy Girl pf were painted with Testors flat black enamel, then wet sanded and cleared...with no bleed! I like using the enamel paints because you can wet sand them and feather them into the silk screening, I have used everything from Varathane to Polycrylic to now using a 2 part automotive grade clear coat 2K and have NEVER had a problem with them yet!

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I do use acrylics for large areas such as these orange spots under the pop bumper caps, but for all the black insert rings and minor touch-ups I like to use the enamel paints before I seal them in the clear coat. I may be mistaken but I believe the majority of the factory silk screened artwork is done with enamel paint.

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I am now using SprayMax 2K high gloss seems to be the consensus here on Pinside, it is a 2 part automotive grade clear coat and should last a long time 20-30 years. If you are planning on using this stuff you must wear a respirator this 2K is toxic.

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They work for me the outcome is the same and besides I've only done a few so far. I think the key is having a controlled environment and I have a nice spray booth and exhaust fan.