(Topic ID: 66074)

Speakeasy Owners Club Fans Also Welcome

By Hellfire

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 137 posts
  • 29 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by brzezicki
  • Topic is favorited by 13 Pinsiders

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#15 9 years ago

I think I'm joining the club in a few days. I'm picking up a project machine. I'm hoping it will clean up nicely, but for right now the only thing that lights, when I turn the power on are the GI lights. No displays, no sound, no start.....

Wish me luck

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Inspect the relay under the PF
When corroded, it shows the GI, but nothing more....
Start there

Good advice, Thanks.

I should be picking it up tomorrow. I'll keep you updated. I love when you pick something cheap, because the game doesn't work, and it turns out to be a fuse or something as simple as a stuck relay.

#18 9 years ago

Also,

I've never owned a Bally SS machine. How do you transport this game? Does the back box fold down, or does it get removed from the cabinet?

#21 9 years ago

Thanks

Hopefully it's less than 29" folded, otherwise the head comes off! I like to look like I know what I'm doing since I'm the "expert" who offered next to nothing for the game.

#22 9 years ago

just got it home. Here are some pics. I've cut off the battery, and tested the fuses, they're all good.

I'm an EM guy so SS games are a new language to me. I have no idea where to begin. Thor, what do I do if the relay board is corroded? There is acid damage to the mpu. When it's powered up, the GI comes on, you can hear a click from the speaker, sounds like the amp coming on. No displays, except for a small glow on the bottom. The things a mess, including the brace that the last guy screwed in to the head and cabinet to support the head. I'm guessing he transported the machine in his pickup without folding the head. What an a**.

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#24 9 years ago

Thank you

#25 9 years ago

Hi all,

Since I rebuilt the MPU, and still nothing happens, not even 1 flash, I ordered a new one.

In the mean time, I've started to clean up the cosmetics and have a question or two (ok, two).

1. I'm sure the roulette wheel cover should lay flush with the playfield, mine is slightly lower. I guess the foam spacers have shrunken over time. Can anyone recommend how to re-level the cover?

2. How do you clean the flip up targets with out damaging the ink? I haven't touched them yet, but am always leery about cleaning drop targets, pop bumper caps, score reels etc. without knowing if the ink will be effected.

TIA

#26 9 years ago

ok, question #3:

Does anyone have the correct rubber ring set list and diagram? Is the manual correct? It looks wrong to me.

#28 9 years ago

Thanks Thor,

I kinda figured that was the solution.

As far as the rings, nevermind, I'm pretty sure the manual is correct on this one. It's been fun trying to figure out how to change the ring on the left side of the flyaway targets....got it though.

oh oh oh....1 more question 1/2" or 3/8" flipper rubbers?

#31 9 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

the plexiglass window does need to be absolutely flush with the playfield surface if it if lower it causes a ball hop and then the the flip up targets get damaged which are irreplaceable by the way. just find a vanilla or other thicker folder and make additional shims to raise the plexiglass cover up until it is flush with the PF.

Thank you,

I put in new foam, but it still needs to be shimmed.

#32 9 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Standard size flipper rubbers. Think these are 1 1/2" X 1/2"

Thanks again.

I have 1/2" red and 3/8" yellow at the house. The red rubber (1/2") comes flush to the top of the flipper bat, I didn't know if that was correct.

#34 9 years ago

Thanks again

#35 9 years ago

I guess I could have referenced the part number.....

#36 9 years ago

Woohoo!!!

It's up and running.

I replaced the MPU with a new Altek board, and all (most) is well.

Some of the flyaway target switches needed adjustment, man they are sensitive, it took almost an hour to get the Ace switch gapped correctly. Also, the Ace was not registering at first, I found a broken wire running from the board, through the posts to the underside of the pf.

Now, the remaining issues are: 1) that the roulette wheel does not always score, sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't it will spin again until it does score. I'm assuming that the switches need to be cleaned and gapped. 2) the "60" insert is loose and there is damage above it, I'm guessing from a botched repair. The insert will need to be glued in and the damage repaired. I'm just not sure how to fix it.

Then it's off to play the machine for a while to see if I like it.

#37 9 years ago

Interesting rule set

#38 9 years ago

OK,

One more post, and I'm sure this one always comes up. Has anyone figured out a way to fabricate or replace the flyaway targets? Mine are all there and working, but they look pretty frail.

Thanks again.

#40 9 years ago

Mine is loose, and there is some damage to the playfield just above the insert. Someone put masking tape around the insert to hold it in place. Also the 4 insert is a bit melted.

I was thinking about using LEDs under the inserts to prevent any further damage, but I just don't like the look on older machines.

#41 9 years ago

Hi,

Does anyone have the list of which SCR controls which lamp?

TY

#42 9 years ago
Quoted from cudabee:

The plastic playfield is not a speakeasy exclusive, it was used on alot of bally's through the years.

It was used on lots of Bally Bingo games.

#44 9 years ago

Done.

BTW...I didn't know a thing about this game before getting it, It gets mixed reviews here and on other sites. I'm liking it however. It's an interesting rule set with a pretty unique layout and unique features. While people don't like the lose a ball feature, I like that it really brings the theme of gambling into the mix. Also a pretty game when lit up.

#47 9 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

What bothers me on this game is when you try to control the ball on the right flipper and the ball rolls up on the inlane it slips into the outlane

Gotta be quick on the release. Those open lanes always bothered me, I hate them on Jacks Open, but kinda like it on this table. It makes the game more challenging. For me the problem is remembering that it's there.

#48 9 years ago

Hellfire,

Thanks for the info. I've got the schematics.

2 months later
#49 9 years ago

Does anyone know where to buy new pop bumper caps for this game?

thanks

10 months later
#51 8 years ago

What BD said.... I need one of those too, if anyone has 2!!!!

I guess those plastics break easily, BD is yours missing or broken? Mine has the upper right corner chipped off, so that the ball gets stuck between the flipper and the plastic. I put a nylon washer there to resolve the issue, maybe you can do the same in the mean time.

2 months later
#55 8 years ago
Quoted from Validpowerdetect:

We all know that the flyaway targets are made out of unobtainium. But, there are some, like me, whose target are ok, but the artwork is shot. If someone with pristine targets would scan them, we could make decals.

Good idea. My art is kind of shot as well.

6 years later
#109 1 year ago

Hi all,

Any recommendations on waxing playfield? I’ve been using Blitz for years, but am now wondering if it’s better to just use Novus 3 on this playfield instead of wax.

Thx

#111 1 year ago

Thx

1 week later
#112 1 year ago

ok.....HELLLLPPPPP!!!!!

Under the "From bad to worse" category.

I have an Alltek Ultimate MPU in my Speakeasy and was having some troubles with it (The game played, but the was an intermittent grounding issue that would cause reboots). With the help of Dave at Alltek (incredible customer service btw), we determined that the J4 header needed to be replaced. I sent him the board, he replaced the header and I had the board back in hand within a week.

While he was doing the repair, I replaced the original red molex connector on the wire bundle with a white molex connector .100 spacing and re-pinned the wires.

Now, I get nada, nothing, zilch. The board does not power up. It must be something I did while re-pinning.

Could someone suggest where to start troubleshooting, my concern is that if I re-re-pin the wires odds are pretty good that I'll mess it up again. That is of course if the problem lies in the new connector. Unfortunately Dave is on vacation right now and won't be able to help for a while.

Thanks

#114 1 year ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

post pics of your repin

Um, Thanks for the offer to help, but now I feel stewpeed!

I had the connectors upside down. That what happens when you have to use multiple connectors and have no key installed!

Now the problem is that the game isn't allowing credits. It's acting as though the little red reset button in pressed (roulette wheel spins on occasion) stepping the button, does step through the test modes.

I hope I didn't fry anything.....Stay tuned!

PANIC ELEVIATED!

Apparently Dave set all the dip switches to zero and wiped out the memory, so I just needed to install the board as new, all is good again. PHEW.

Lesson learned.

Once again, Incredible service from Dave at Alltek. He spent a lot of phone time helping me troubleshoot the MPU and was always very responsive to texts and messages left with his service. It's rare to get that kind of attention, turn around time and support on a product that's probably over 5 years old. I'm assuming that the header pins were corroded as a result of the the original J4 female connector pins being corroded, through no fault of his product. He still repaired the MPU for free, except for shipping costs. II would highly recommend purchasing any of his high quality products.

-W

#115 1 year ago

And now that that's taken care of.......

Apparently I looked at the game wrong or maybe just breathed too close to it, so now need to readjust the J and Q target switches yet again!

#117 1 year ago
Quoted from capguntrooper:

I swear if I could find that whole assembly I would buy it!

It's a rarity for sure.

1 month later
#119 1 year ago

Hi all,

My Speakeasy has an intermittent problem that I’m hoping the group can help with.

On occasion, the 9 rollover, k flyaway, left spins wheel kick out hole and left pop bumper don’t work. If one of those switches work, they all work. Obviously on the same matrix, any suggestion on how to trouble shoot the issue?

I don’t have schematic.

Thank you.

Edit: maybe fixed….. switch test showed #27 closed.

New edit!!! Crap, it played for a few games, then the symptoms came back. No other switches closed except for the roulette wheel ball. Back to square one.

Ok, New edit to the new edit!!! Reseated MPU connector, seems ok again…….stay tuned.

Added 21 months ago:

Yup, all good.

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