Are all the other switches on the playfield working?

Did you check the contacts under the wheel? Those sliders?

Looking to pick one of these up. Seller lost the head but has the Backglass and rest of game. Anyone know of a head laying around?

Oops.
Since that head is unique to that single game and can not be replaced with any other from any other game - might be difficult to find one.

Exactly. I didn’t buy the machine yet. If I can’t get a head, I will pass.

Does anyone know if there are cabinel-stencils available For SpeakEasy (-4) ?

AFAIK - no.

Anyone know how to properly adjust the Speakeasy target switches? What tool have you had the best luck with? I've been working on mine because I found a couple of the switch wires had broken off and one switch had been modified after someone broke the tip off the switch. I now have the target pcb rewired and spliced back into the machine. None of my switches appear to be close enough to the targets to close when a ball hit the target. Before trial and error bending I thought I'd seek some advice from you guys. Thanks.

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anyone know where I can get a number 5 yellow insert?

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Hi all,

Any recommendations on waxing playfield? I’ve been using Blitz for years, but am now wondering if it’s better to just use Novus 3 on this playfield instead of wax.

Thx

I've had good luck cleaning with Naptha then wiping down with Novus 1. Have never waxed it.

Thx

ok.....HELLLLPPPPP!!!!!

Under the "From bad to worse" category.

I have an Alltek Ultimate MPU in my Speakeasy and was having some troubles with it (The game played, but the was an intermittent grounding issue that would cause reboots). With the help of Dave at Alltek (incredible customer service btw), we determined that the J4 header needed to be replaced. I sent him the board, he replaced the header and I had the board back in hand within a week.

While he was doing the repair, I replaced the original red molex connector on the wire bundle with a white molex connector .100 spacing and re-pinned the wires.

Now, I get nada, nothing, zilch. The board does not power up. It must be something I did while re-pinning.

Could someone suggest where to start troubleshooting, my concern is that if I re-re-pin the wires odds are pretty good that I'll mess it up again. That is of course if the problem lies in the new connector. Unfortunately Dave is on vacation right now and won't be able to help for a while.

Thanks

post pics of your repin

Um, Thanks for the offer to help, but now I feel stewpeed!

I had the connectors upside down. That what happens when you have to use multiple connectors and have no key installed!

Now the problem is that the game isn't allowing credits. It's acting as though the little red reset button in pressed (roulette wheel spins on occasion) stepping the button, does step through the test modes.

I hope I didn't fry anything.....Stay tuned!

PANIC ELEVIATED!

Apparently Dave set all the dip switches to zero and wiped out the memory, so I just needed to install the board as new, all is good again. PHEW.

Lesson learned.

Once again, Incredible service from Dave at Alltek. He spent a lot of phone time helping me troubleshoot the MPU and was always very responsive to texts and messages left with his service. It's rare to get that kind of attention, turn around time and support on a product that's probably over 5 years old. I'm assuming that the header pins were corroded as a result of the the original J4 female connector pins being corroded, through no fault of his product. He still repaired the MPU for free, except for shipping costs. II would highly recommend purchasing any of his high quality products.

-W

And now that that's taken care of.......

Apparently I looked at the game wrong or maybe just breathed too close to it, so now need to readjust the J and Q target switches yet again!

I swear if I could find that whole assembly I would buy it!

It's a rarity for sure.

At least, the blue posts and the flipping targets are available as data for 3-D-printing.

Hi all,

My Speakeasy has an intermittent problem that I’m hoping the group can help with.

On occasion, the 9 rollover, k flyaway, left spins wheel kick out hole and left pop bumper don’t work. If one of those switches work, they all work. Obviously on the same matrix, any suggestion on how to trouble shoot the issue?

I don’t have schematic.

Thank you.

Edit: maybe fixed….. switch test showed #27 closed.

New edit!!! Crap, it played for a few games, then the symptoms came back. No other switches closed except for the roulette wheel ball. Back to square one.

Ok, New edit to the new edit!!! Reseated MPU connector, seems ok again…….stay tuned.

Yup, all good.

Anyone seen a Speakeasy with this cab art?

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No, never seen that. But would love to have those decals, mine cabinet could use some touch-up

Looking really close someone very carefully masked off the border and lettering and repainted the cabinet, they even went with a speckled finish!

I could in theory scan in what is there and make a decal set with my Cameo 4 vinyl cutter.

Thanks for the offer, appreciated.
But don't bother, touching up the inperfections will be much easier.

There is somebody offering stencils for Speakeasy! (The usual sources don't have them)

https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/cabinet-stencils.52917/#post-487182

So, could the first one to try them share his experience here with us?

Anyone know the color match of the cabinet paint?

Is there a source for the roll under target switches? I’m not finding a part number in the manual.

Are you looking for the little switches that are activated by the flip-up cards? If so there is an e-bay seller that may have one or two. He currently is trying to sell a set of the flip-up targets ($300+.)

If you find a source for these switches please let us know. Very hard to find.

There is a seller in Germany who has them in stock, but I don't know if he sells overseas. Also, the price is very painful.
https://pinball-parts.shop/geraetespezifische-suche/bally/speakeasy/19828/kontakt?number=ASW-A10-63

Ouch. You can get them for a more reasonable price by 3-D-printing them, the source to the files is somwhere up in this thread.

Great information. These little switches are so hard to find!

But, have you seen the price?

If I recall correctly it was around 15 Euros ($16) or so. At that price I'd gladly buy a couple just for spares. You'd think shipping would be minimal on such a small item.

Price isn't too horrendous for a non-standard part, but I am going to pursue fixing mine with switch blades from the parts bin.

Any help locating this switch for the flyaway target would be appreciated

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last week I picked up a beautiful speakeasy that a retired and moving couple had for 30 years. really fun game. I started fixing it up (some cracked ball lanes, some switches that need to be cleaned) When going to clean the switches in the roulette wheel I decided I wanted to replace the plastic because mine had a crack in it.

after figuring out a good way to replace it I realized I could not only replace it but replace it with a completely flat piece by moving the screws to "inside"

so I 3D printed a base ring that I screw the screws into. Then I use the screws like "leg levelers" to level the acrylic circle perfectly.

to do this I cut 2 pieces of the acrylic glass. one "normal one" and one with holes so I can turn it (with a suction cup) so that the plastic sits on the screws Then I can turn the plastic so the holes are over the screws, make fine adjustments to the "leveling" turn it again so holes are not over the screws... work my way around until my leveling is perfect. Then remove the "holed" plastic and put the real plastic in.

Now it's perfectly level, and there are not screw heads to deflect the ball! The plastic fits tight and plays great. That said if I flip the playfield up I have to remove the plastic and the roulette ball before flipping it up.

but it really worked out nicely.

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