I have completely restored my Speakeasy 4. Took me months of work. Here are some pictures of mine after the restoration...

Photoshoot01-327.jpg

Photoshoot02.jpg

Photoshoot05.jpg

Yes, you're right, the 2-player version backglass is better. It was the original and they "hacked" it to accomodate 4 displays for the 4-player version.

The only problem is that the 2-player version is very hard to find here in Europe.

Yes, my plastic playfield is also nearly flawless.

Why they didn't try making more? Cost, probably...

I know, but this machine is an experimental one in so many ways. Think about it..

* 2 player game (the 4 player was introduced later, after complaints by operators)
* add-a-ball
* sacrifice button
* plastic playfield
* narrow backbox

None of these features have survived onto later models.

Anyway, I'm quite sure the plastic playfield was left out due to cost. Keep in mind that the beginning of the eighties was also an era of cost cutting in pinball. Probably also the reason why Speakeasy (as some other Bally machines from that time) doesn't have speech.

Yes, I forgot the flip-up targets in my list of experimental features.

The roulette is not thát unique. It appeared on some EM machines. The mechanic itself is pretty much unchanged from the EM version. Check Fan-Tas-Tic, Super Score, ... It even appeared again later, on Riverboat Gambler.

It is true that, besides the cost cutting, there was a lot of creativity among pinball designers in the beginning of the eighties. Lots of great and original games.

And that is exactly the same reason why I like mine.

It's actually quite funny how I bought mine. I went to a guy to buy a Bally Mr. & Ms. Pacman. He had 2 for sale and I could pick either one. However one was in normal shape for a 30 year old machine, while the other was really beat up.

Next to them stood a Speakeasy 4 that he was also selling. Not working and uncleaned for years, but cosmetically in a really nice shape. So, I went for that one.

I have a great 2 player Speakseasy. I bought it with obvious acid damage to the MPU but I just loved, and still love, the look of this game. I installed a Tom Callahan "Mutha" PCB. The machine works great but adds a ton of credits each game and I cannot get the test switch to work. I have posted this issue before but have had no response. Anyone else have a test switch issue that can help me? The wires trace fine from the test switch to pcbs so I am kind of thinking the new (years old at this point) Mutha pcb has an issue? Thanks Much.

I think its a great game, i have played a couple thus far and they feel solid as a rock, and it is just FYN !

It is on my short list for sure.. and i'm a Gottlieb guy !

I think I'm joining the club in a few days. I'm picking up a project machine. I'm hoping it will clean up nicely, but for right now the only thing that lights, when I turn the power on are the GI lights. No displays, no sound, no start.....

Wish me luck

Good luck!!

Inspect the relay under the PF
When corroded, it shows the GI, but nothing more....
Start there

Good advice, Thanks.

I should be picking it up tomorrow. I'll keep you updated. I love when you pick something cheap, because the game doesn't work, and it turns out to be a fuse or something as simple as a stuck relay.

Also,

I've never owned a Bally SS machine. How do you transport this game? Does the back box fold down, or does it get removed from the cabinet?

Weird game for sure. Add-a-ball on a SS? Weird.

That said I would like to find a cheap one some day.

It can be folded down, if you have the keys (lock is on the right side,top of the backbox)

When you have opened itwith the keys, lift the backglass out, and then remove the two bolds inside the head which secures the backbox. So bring a adjustable wrench

Thanks

Hopefully it's less than 29" folded, otherwise the head comes off! I like to look like I know what I'm doing since I'm the "expert" who offered next to nothing for the game.

just got it home. Here are some pics. I've cut off the battery, and tested the fuses, they're all good.

I'm an EM guy so SS games are a new language to me. I have no idea where to begin. Thor, what do I do if the relay board is corroded? There is acid damage to the mpu. When it's powered up, the GI comes on, you can hear a click from the speaker, sounds like the amp coming on. No displays, except for a small glow on the bottom. The things a mess, including the brace that the last guy screwed in to the head and cabinet to support the head. I'm guessing he transported the machine in his pickup without folding the head. What an a**.

DSC_1135.jpg

DSC_1137.jpg

DSC_1141.jpg

DSC_1143.jpg

DSC_1144.jpg

DSC_1146.jpg

DSC_1147.jpg

DSC_1148.jpg

DSC_1156.jpg

DSC_1151.jpg

DSC_1155.jpg

DSC_1157.jpg

DSC_1161.jpg

DSC_1168.jpg

DSC_1170.jpg

Well the playfield is looking good, and that's where you play on....
Winter is coming, so this project gets you covert for some time

That little relay board is under your playfield:
For future reference :
Relay, DPDT, 48 Volt, 10 Amp
Replacement for 48 volt Bally solenoid driver relay.

Take a look at this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/speakeasy-4-mpu-as-2518-33-stuck-in-attrackt-mode

and this one :

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-sleepeasy

Thank you

Hi all,

Since I rebuilt the MPU, and still nothing happens, not even 1 flash, I ordered a new one.

In the mean time, I've started to clean up the cosmetics and have a question or two (ok, two).

1. I'm sure the roulette wheel cover should lay flush with the playfield, mine is slightly lower. I guess the foam spacers have shrunken over time. Can anyone recommend how to re-level the cover?

2. How do you clean the flip up targets with out damaging the ink? I haven't touched them yet, but am always leery about cleaning drop targets, pop bumper caps, score reels etc. without knowing if the ink will be effected.

TIA

ok, question #3:

Does anyone have the correct rubber ring set list and diagram? Is the manual correct? It looks wrong to me.

1. The foam padding can be replaced. I used some draft-strip for doors and windows.
2. i clean them with some novus 1. if they are faint, use a sharpie

SE4_cards.JPG

Thanks Thor,

I kinda figured that was the solution.

As far as the rings, nevermind, I'm pretty sure the manual is correct on this one. It's been fun trying to figure out how to change the ring on the left side of the flyaway targets....got it though.

oh oh oh....1 more question 1/2" or 3/8" flipper rubbers?

Standard size flipper rubbers. Think these are 1 1/2" X 1/2"

Thank you,

I put in new foam, but it still needs to be shimmed.

Thanks again.

I have 1/2" red and 3/8" yellow at the house. The red rubber (1/2") comes flush to the top of the flipper bat, I didn't know if that was correct.

Yes it is

Thanks again

I guess I could have referenced the part number.....

Woohoo!!!

It's up and running.

I replaced the MPU with a new Altek board, and all (most) is well.

Some of the flyaway target switches needed adjustment, man they are sensitive, it took almost an hour to get the Ace switch gapped correctly. Also, the Ace was not registering at first, I found a broken wire running from the board, through the posts to the underside of the pf.

Now, the remaining issues are: 1) that the roulette wheel does not always score, sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't it will spin again until it does score. I'm assuming that the switches need to be cleaned and gapped. 2) the "60" insert is loose and there is damage above it, I'm guessing from a botched repair. The insert will need to be glued in and the damage repaired. I'm just not sure how to fix it.

Then it's off to play the machine for a while to see if I like it.

Interesting rule set

OK,

One more post, and I'm sure this one always comes up. Has anyone figured out a way to fabricate or replace the flyaway targets? Mine are all there and working, but they look pretty frail.

Thanks again.

The plastic playfield is not a speakeasy exclusive, it was used on alot of bally's through the years.
If you have a speak easy, don't let it idle in attract mode too long. The bonus 60k lamp is always energized [ bug?] and has often caused the insert to come loose and twist because of heat, at least that's my theory.

Mine is loose, and there is some damage to the playfield just above the insert. Someone put masking tape around the insert to hold it in place. Also the 4 insert is a bit melted.

I was thinking about using LEDs under the inserts to prevent any further damage, but I just don't like the look on older machines.

Hi,

Does anyone have the list of which SCR controls which lamp?

TY

It was used on lots of Bally Bingo games.

Done.

BTW...I didn't know a thing about this game before getting it, It gets mixed reviews here and on other sites. I'm liking it however. It's an interesting rule set with a pretty unique layout and unique features. While people don't like the lose a ball feature, I like that it really brings the theme of gambling into the mix. Also a pretty game when lit up.

What bothers me on this game is when you try to control the ball on the right flipper and the ball rolls up on the inlane it slips into the outlane

Anyone put a oneway-port up there?

Those rare occations when the ball goes from the joker lane and down the outlane. They are the worst.

Gotta be quick on the release. Those open lanes always bothered me, I hate them on Jacks Open, but kinda like it on this table. It makes the game more challenging. For me the problem is remembering that it's there.

Hellfire,

Thanks for the info. I've got the schematics.

Does anyone know where to buy new pop bumper caps for this game?

thanks

Does anyone happen to have any spare plastics laying around for Speak Easy? I am in need of just one small plastic in particular - the spade/club plastic just to the left of the left flipper.

If anyone has one they would be willing to part with, I'd be glad to purchase it from you.

Thanks!

Speakeasy_Left_Flipper_Plastic_Needed.jpg