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(Topic ID: 66074)

Speakeasy Owners Club Fans Also Welcome


By Hellfire

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 65 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Mitch
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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There are 65 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 6 years ago

Heres another older SS Bally it kinda strange has the roulette wheel, 5 flip up targets an Odd mech plastic fiber playfield. narrow backbox etc.
Not the best Bally but still a pretty cool machine certainly Odd if anything
They made the standard 2 player or more rare 4 player versions.
Share pics if you have one or your opinion on the machine.

#2 6 years ago

heres some pics of my Speakeasy havnt done much to it but change some plastics i got lucky and found some NOS ones on Ebay and replaced a few connectors in the backbox, changed the displays, and changed rubbers then added a few leds the playfield and backbox were this nice when i got it just needed a good cleaning.006.JPG008.JPG009.JPG011.JPG

#3 6 years ago

I have completely restored my Speakeasy 4. Took me months of work. Here are some pictures of mine after the restoration...

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#4 6 years ago

Looks nice diesel
You have a much nicer cabinet than mine does.
Now they have twisted pins that can make stencils with a few pics So eventualy i will get my cabinet redone.
I had a chance to buy the 4 version as well but honestly I liked the 2 version backglass version better.

#5 6 years ago

The gameplay is off on this machine as well I like the add / lose ball feature of the roulette wheel it realy rewarded and screwed me equally.
Also to get a big points payout the game kinda makes you have to knock the targets down in proper order and costs you points if you want to reset the targets to do it.
i think they were onto something with the plastic playfield as well. mine was obviously in a damp location or warehouse the cabinet is planked etc but the playfield remained perfect. I wonder why they didnt try making a few more games with the plastic playfields?

#6 6 years ago

Yes, you're right, the 2-player version backglass is better. It was the original and they "hacked" it to accomodate 4 displays for the 4-player version.

The only problem is that the 2-player version is very hard to find here in Europe.

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

i think they were onto something with the plastic playfield as well. mine was obviously in a damp location or warehouse the cabinet is planked etc but the playfield remained perfect. I wonder why they didnt try making a few more games with the plastic playfields?

Yes, my plastic playfield is also nearly flawless.

Why they didn't try making more? Cost, probably...

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from diesel64:

Why they didn't try making more? Cost, probably...

Youre prolly right. but I think they might have been onto something. but look the old bally held up pretty good overall ive seen 6 month old new sterns losing their art already not even being played like the old days.

It seems more about cost cutting now that it was even then its a shame realy.

#9 6 years ago

I know, but this machine is an experimental one in so many ways. Think about it..

* 2 player game (the 4 player was introduced later, after complaints by operators)
* add-a-ball
* sacrifice button
* plastic playfield
* narrow backbox

None of these features have survived onto later models.

Anyway, I'm quite sure the plastic playfield was left out due to cost. Keep in mind that the beginning of the eighties was also an era of cost cutting in pinball. Probably also the reason why Speakeasy (as some other Bally machines from that time) doesn't have speech.

#10 6 years ago

I found lack of speech to be a disapointment personaly.
But at the same time i suppose it was apparently designed to be more in the lines of a simulated EM machine in ways
1920s ears theme, gambling, proabition etc.
i think the flip up targets are pretty exclusive to this machine i think only one other had them if at all.
its the first or one of the first with the roulette wheel which made it into o few newer machines.

A big reason i liked the older SS Ballys is becouse they werent afraid to think outside the box and try new things.
perhaps they were sometimes ahead of their time or thought too far outside the box in which the masses didnt approve lol such as this game, spectrum, elektra etc.

But most the games they did make 80-82 were original and well thought out and most are still sought after today.

Speakeasy might not be the most desireable bally but it is one of the more original and a big part of the reason i like it.

#11 6 years ago

Yes, I forgot the flip-up targets in my list of experimental features.

The roulette is not thát unique. It appeared on some EM machines. The mechanic itself is pretty much unchanged from the EM version. Check Fan-Tas-Tic, Super Score, ... It even appeared again later, on Riverboat Gambler.

It is true that, besides the cost cutting, there was a lot of creativity among pinball designers in the beginning of the eighties. Lots of great and original games.

Quoted from Hellfire:

Speakeasy might not be the most desireable bally but it is one of the more original and a big part of the reason i like it.

And that is exactly the same reason why I like mine.

It's actually quite funny how I bought mine. I went to a guy to buy a Bally Mr. & Ms. Pacman. He had 2 for sale and I could pick either one. However one was in normal shape for a 30 year old machine, while the other was really beat up.

Next to them stood a Speakeasy 4 that he was also selling. Not working and uncleaned for years, but cosmetically in a really nice shape. So, I went for that one.

3 months later
#12 6 years ago

I have a great 2 player Speakseasy. I bought it with obvious acid damage to the MPU but I just loved, and still love, the look of this game. I installed a Tom Callahan "Mutha" PCB. The machine works great but adds a ton of credits each game and I cannot get the test switch to work. I have posted this issue before but have had no response. Anyone else have a test switch issue that can help me? The wires trace fine from the test switch to pcbs so I am kind of thinking the new (years old at this point) Mutha pcb has an issue? Thanks Much.

#13 6 years ago

Do you have a picture of the mutha? not familiar with that board.

#14 6 years ago

I think its a great game, i have played a couple thus far and they feel solid as a rock, and it is just FYN !

It is on my short list for sure.. and i'm a Gottlieb guy !

9 months later
#15 5 years ago

I think I'm joining the club in a few days. I'm picking up a project machine. I'm hoping it will clean up nicely, but for right now the only thing that lights, when I turn the power on are the GI lights. No displays, no sound, no start.....

Wish me luck

#16 5 years ago

Good luck!!

Inspect the relay under the PF
When corroded, it shows the GI, but nothing more....
Start there

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Inspect the relay under the PF
When corroded, it shows the GI, but nothing more....
Start there

Good advice, Thanks.

I should be picking it up tomorrow. I'll keep you updated. I love when you pick something cheap, because the game doesn't work, and it turns out to be a fuse or something as simple as a stuck relay.

#18 5 years ago

Also,

I've never owned a Bally SS machine. How do you transport this game? Does the back box fold down, or does it get removed from the cabinet?

#19 5 years ago

Weird game for sure. Add-a-ball on a SS? Weird.

That said I would like to find a cheap one some day.

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Also,
I've never owned a Bally SS machine. How do you transport this game? Does the back box fold down, or does it get removed from the cabinet?

It can be folded down, if you have the keys (lock is on the right side,top of the backbox)

When you have opened itwith the keys, lift the backglass out, and then remove the two bolds inside the head which secures the backbox. So bring a adjustable wrench

#21 5 years ago

Thanks

Hopefully it's less than 29" folded, otherwise the head comes off! I like to look like I know what I'm doing since I'm the "expert" who offered next to nothing for the game.

#22 5 years ago

just got it home. Here are some pics. I've cut off the battery, and tested the fuses, they're all good.

I'm an EM guy so SS games are a new language to me. I have no idea where to begin. Thor, what do I do if the relay board is corroded? There is acid damage to the mpu. When it's powered up, the GI comes on, you can hear a click from the speaker, sounds like the amp coming on. No displays, except for a small glow on the bottom. The things a mess, including the brace that the last guy screwed in to the head and cabinet to support the head. I'm guessing he transported the machine in his pickup without folding the head. What an a**.

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#23 5 years ago

Well the playfield is looking good, and that's where you play on....
Winter is coming, so this project gets you covert for some time

That little relay board is under your playfield:
For future reference :
Relay, DPDT, 48 Volt, 10 Amp
Replacement for 48 volt Bally solenoid driver relay.

Take a look at this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/speakeasy-4-mpu-as-2518-33-stuck-in-attrackt-mode

and this one :

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-sleepeasy

#24 5 years ago

Thank you

#25 5 years ago

Hi all,

Since I rebuilt the MPU, and still nothing happens, not even 1 flash, I ordered a new one.

In the mean time, I've started to clean up the cosmetics and have a question or two (ok, two).

1. I'm sure the roulette wheel cover should lay flush with the playfield, mine is slightly lower. I guess the foam spacers have shrunken over time. Can anyone recommend how to re-level the cover?

2. How do you clean the flip up targets with out damaging the ink? I haven't touched them yet, but am always leery about cleaning drop targets, pop bumper caps, score reels etc. without knowing if the ink will be effected.

TIA

#26 5 years ago

ok, question #3:

Does anyone have the correct rubber ring set list and diagram? Is the manual correct? It looks wrong to me.

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi all,
Since I rebuilt the MPU, and still nothing happens, not even 1 flash, I ordered a new one.
In the mean time, I've started to clean up the cosmetics and have a question or two (ok, two).
1. I'm sure the roulette wheel cover should lay flush with the playfield, mine is slightly lower. I guess the foam spacers have shrunken over time. Can anyone recommend how to re-level the cover?
2. How do you clean the flip up targets with out damaging the ink? I haven't touched them yet, but am always leery about cleaning drop targets, pop bumper caps, score reels etc. without knowing if the ink will be effected.
TIA

1. The foam padding can be replaced. I used some draft-strip for doors and windows.
2. i clean them with some novus 1. if they are faint, use a sharpie

SE4_cards.JPG
#28 5 years ago

Thanks Thor,

I kinda figured that was the solution.

As far as the rings, nevermind, I'm pretty sure the manual is correct on this one. It's been fun trying to figure out how to change the ring on the left side of the flyaway targets....got it though.

oh oh oh....1 more question 1/2" or 3/8" flipper rubbers?

#29 5 years ago

Standard size flipper rubbers. Think these are 1 1/2" X 1/2"

#30 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

1. I'm sure the roulette wheel cover should lay flush with the playfield, mine is slightly lower. I guess the foam spacers have shrunken over time. Can anyone recommend how to re-level the cover?

the plexiglass window does need to be absolutely flush with the playfield surface if it if lower it causes a ball hop and then the the flip up targets get damaged which are irreplaceable by the way. just find a vanilla or other thicker folder and make additional shims to raise the plexiglass cover up until it is flush with the PF.

#31 5 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

the plexiglass window does need to be absolutely flush with the playfield surface if it if lower it causes a ball hop and then the the flip up targets get damaged which are irreplaceable by the way. just find a vanilla or other thicker folder and make additional shims to raise the plexiglass cover up until it is flush with the PF.

Thank you,

I put in new foam, but it still needs to be shimmed.

#32 5 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Standard size flipper rubbers. Think these are 1 1/2" X 1/2"

Thanks again.

I have 1/2" red and 3/8" yellow at the house. The red rubber (1/2") comes flush to the top of the flipper bat, I didn't know if that was correct.

#33 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

...The red rubber (1/2") comes flush to the top of the flipper bat, I didn't know if that was correct.

Yes it is

#34 5 years ago

Thanks again

#35 5 years ago

I guess I could have referenced the part number.....

#36 5 years ago

Woohoo!!!

It's up and running.

I replaced the MPU with a new Altek board, and all (most) is well.

Some of the flyaway target switches needed adjustment, man they are sensitive, it took almost an hour to get the Ace switch gapped correctly. Also, the Ace was not registering at first, I found a broken wire running from the board, through the posts to the underside of the pf.

Now, the remaining issues are: 1) that the roulette wheel does not always score, sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't it will spin again until it does score. I'm assuming that the switches need to be cleaned and gapped. 2) the "60" insert is loose and there is damage above it, I'm guessing from a botched repair. The insert will need to be glued in and the damage repaired. I'm just not sure how to fix it.

Then it's off to play the machine for a while to see if I like it.

#37 5 years ago

Interesting rule set

#38 5 years ago

OK,

One more post, and I'm sure this one always comes up. Has anyone figured out a way to fabricate or replace the flyaway targets? Mine are all there and working, but they look pretty frail.

Thanks again.

#39 5 years ago

The plastic playfield is not a speakeasy exclusive, it was used on alot of bally's through the years.
If you have a speak easy, don't let it idle in attract mode too long. The bonus 60k lamp is always energized [ bug?] and has often caused the insert to come loose and twist because of heat, at least that's my theory.

#40 5 years ago

Mine is loose, and there is some damage to the playfield just above the insert. Someone put masking tape around the insert to hold it in place. Also the 4 insert is a bit melted.

I was thinking about using LEDs under the inserts to prevent any further damage, but I just don't like the look on older machines.

#41 5 years ago

Hi,

Does anyone have the list of which SCR controls which lamp?

TY

#42 5 years ago
Quoted from cudabee:

The plastic playfield is not a speakeasy exclusive, it was used on alot of bally's through the years.

It was used on lots of Bally Bingo games.

#43 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Hi,

Does anyone have the list of which SCR controls which lamp?

TY

I have the schematics but wont be able to scan them where they would be useful to you but email me a list of non working lamps and i can tell you which transistors control them. otherwise bally is realy nice to trace just look for the wire color on the non working lamp and find it on the light driver board connector then trace it back on the PCB. bally has a different colored wire for each socket. Also these old 555 sockets alot of the time just need the terminals bent together with a pick to make contact with the bulb again.

#44 5 years ago

Done.

BTW...I didn't know a thing about this game before getting it, It gets mixed reviews here and on other sites. I'm liking it however. It's an interesting rule set with a pretty unique layout and unique features. While people don't like the lose a ball feature, I like that it really brings the theme of gambling into the mix. Also a pretty game when lit up.

#45 5 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

Done.
BTW...I didn't know a thing about this game before getting it, It gets mixed reviews here and on other sites. I'm liking it however. It's an interesting rule set with a pretty unique layout and unique features. While people don't like the lose a ball feature, I like that it really brings the theme of gambling into the mix. Also a pretty game when lit up.

What bothers me on this game is when you try to control the ball on the right flipper and the ball rolls up on the inlane it slips into the outlane

Anyone put a oneway-port up there?

#46 5 years ago

Those rare occations when the ball goes from the joker lane and down the outlane. They are the worst.

#47 5 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

What bothers me on this game is when you try to control the ball on the right flipper and the ball rolls up on the inlane it slips into the outlane

Gotta be quick on the release. Those open lanes always bothered me, I hate them on Jacks Open, but kinda like it on this table. It makes the game more challenging. For me the problem is remembering that it's there.

#48 5 years ago

Hellfire,

Thanks for the info. I've got the schematics.

2 months later
#49 5 years ago

Does anyone know where to buy new pop bumper caps for this game?

thanks

9 months later
#50 4 years ago

Does anyone happen to have any spare plastics laying around for Speak Easy? I am in need of just one small plastic in particular - the spade/club plastic just to the left of the left flipper.

If anyone has one they would be willing to part with, I'd be glad to purchase it from you.

Thanks!

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