(Topic ID: 258878)

Spblat's Game Room

By spblat

43 days ago

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  • 37 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by spblat
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders


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#1 43 days ago

Wasn't sure where to put this thread. I'll be documenting the work I do on my games. I don't quite think this qualifies as "restoration" so here goes:

...the arcade machine on the right is an old MAME project from 2006. Since then I've replaced the linux box with retropie. Original build documented here: https://web.archive.org/web/20100627024448/http://www.irace.net/tz/images/mametempest/

#2 43 days ago

I thought I would have kept the Earthshaker longer than I did. Needed to make room!

#3 43 days ago

Rudy's eyes work correctly.


This site was helpful overcoming my reluctance to get in there. My issue was the same. http://www.pinthugs.com/funhouse/eyelids.htm

At last he can close his eyes properly again!

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#4 43 days ago

Getaway. Somebody used an erector set or something to repair the supercharger sign. Got the proper part from Marco, trimmed the broken plastic. Much better. Installed some super bands while I had the glass off.

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#5 43 days ago

Last night I (hopefully) got to the end of my TNG reset issue.

Quoted from spblat:

Wasn’t a permanent fix. I was having an epic game and got a reset during final frontier. Reinstalled Kahr and it’s back to crashing under the specific conditions noted above.
- TP1: 13.8V
- TP2: 5.4V (LM323 was previously replaced with PSU5)
- TP3: dips from 12.00 as low as 9V during attract mode light show. Also the bulbs are unsurprisingly dimmer when more of them are on
- TP4: (I don’t have an oscilloscope)
- TP6: 0.12VDC (?!)
- TP7: 1.0VDC (?!)
- TP8: 18V, dipping to 13V as above during attract mode light show.
More questions! This is my first PDB troubleshooting exercise.
- TP6 value seems perplexing as hell. All the individual coils, flippers and flashers work. Should I head straight to BR3 and C8?
- TP7 value is also weird considering the game mostly works. BR4 and/or C11?
- Is it normal for TP3 and TP8 to lose voltage? Seems unlikely, in which case BR1 and/or C6 and/or C7 are implicated.
- That would be a lot of failed components, which doesn’t seem to make sense. I haven’t yet checked what’s coming in at J101 and J102 and I’m away from the game for a few days. Would I be looking for a voltage drop coming into the rectifiers? A problem with the main transformer? [Edit: but my Getaway PDB works great in my TNG, so it’s the PDB. Reflow and/or repin J101 and 102?]

Added yesterday: Edit 2: Cabin fever sets in and I've made a list of measurements to take upon returning home

Quoted from spblat:

Closing the loop on my resets (hopefully):
- Closer inspection of PDB showed no evidence of caps or BRs being replaced. This is odd because somebody went to the trouble of replacing the LM323 with a PSU5. But no caps or BRs?
- Also no header discoloration nor leakage from C2 or anywhere else.
- But under Q17 and elsewhere I noticed a surprising lack of solder on the contacts.
- Also surprising: a few (but not all) of the pins under U3 had been soldered, without cleaning the flux afterward. [Edit: now it just looks like some kind of goo, not resoldering. Anyway I cleaned it up.]
What I did:
- Replaced C2 because I was there and because I have a shiny new desoldering gun. Tore out an eyelet anyway. I’ll get better. Made sure enough solder went in to get to both sides of the board.
- Re-flowed solder on every PDB jumper because another WPC reset thread ended up with problems with connectors.
- Cleaned up flux with alcohol, reinstalled PDB, removed Kahr, forgot to power the flippers.
- Got kind of worried, fixed the error.
- Played game with a long Final Frontier, no resets.
This is the same result I got after simply reseating the PDB so don’t know if it’ll hold. Then again maybe there wasn’t a prolonged FF after that. If I get another reset I’m tempted to replace the other 7 electrolytic caps and all of the BRs because I need soldering practice and there are three other WPCs in my life that’ll need some combination of this someday ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
[quoted image][quoted image]

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#6 43 days ago

TNG tie back mod.

Quoted from spblat:

This may be frowned upon, but rather than re-pinning anything I used a pair of taps (one red, one blue) to bridge J107-1 on the driver board to J4-1 on the 8 driver PCB. Mine is the black wire, which I will label for the next guy.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#7 43 days ago

Pinbot LED adjustment

Quoted from spblat:

Out with the cool bright GI, in with the warm retros from Comet[quoted image][quoted image]

#8 43 days ago

Careful study of this photo allowed me to figure out which diode was responsible for a failed bulb in pinbot’s matrix.

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#9 43 days ago

Earthshaker fault diverter fix

Quoted from spblat:

Thanks to the suggestion from jhanley I got some help from a buddy with a welder. We filled in the space, ground it flat, then dremeled in a new slot. Earthshaker fault problem fixed!
[quoted image] [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image] [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#10 43 days ago

This...needs to be patched.

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#11 43 days ago

Also known as my happy place

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#12 43 days ago

My approach to apron cards is to print the original rule cards on the left in simple black-and-white, and I have customized a pricing card for each of the games. Each one has a paragraph from my pinside review of the game, alongside some interesting details (or Easter egg clues). Happy to share source files if there is interest.

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#13 43 days ago

TNG. This one has a pinbits shaker in it and the vibration from the backglass was kind of nutty. Installed a couple of foam protectors I had picked up for another purpose from Marco: 23-6534-9. There are still plenty of rattles but the worst one is taken care of.

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#14 43 days ago


Reflowed janky drop targets.

The visor hasn’t been going down all the way. When a ball hits it, it’s at the right level, but gravity alone hasn’t been enough.

Off by like a quarter’s thickness, enough to brick the first eye shot.

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Press down with finger or hit it with a ball and it’s level.

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Looking inside we see a slot that the cam moves up and down.

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A few layers of gorilla tape in the slot reduces the amount of play...

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And it’s fixed!
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On to cliffy. <strikeout>Outhole</strikeout> Shooter eject first:
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The wooden rail is secured by four screws.
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Slide it in, re-tighten stuff, done.
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Now lane guides. Over the years the metal deforms. Cliff has new ones for us!
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Old, bad
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New, good. More Cliffy later.
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What was that about bourbon and pinball?
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#15 42 days ago

I was asked in PM for more detail on LCD vs LED ColorDMD.

Quoted from spblat:

I picked up a Star Trek TNG that had a LED ColorDMD in it. I swapped it with the LCD that I had in my Twilight Zone and I cannot overstate how much better I think TNG is with “DotXL” compared with those little points of LED light.
I think Twilight Zone isn’t worse with LED than it was with LCD: I think that one is maybe a toss-up. [EDIT: no, it’s WAY better with LED. Those twinkling stars are stunning!]
Getaway I’ve only seen with LED and I think it is super duper that way.
[quoted image]

None of these GIFs do justice to the original colors but here's what I think:

Getaway in LED. Love the pinpoint blazes of light.

My TNG came to me with a LED ColorDMD. On a whim I put the LED in my TZ and the LCD from my TZ in my TNG. So this is TNG in ColorDMD LCD. I think this screen in particular is helped by the LCD panel's "DotXL" mode. The muted colors are, I think, consistent with the overall Star Trek design aesthetic, and perhaps it's the case that some of the animations are so intricate that they're made clearer in DotXL. Or perhaps it's that the LCD display offers a wider range of colors that are needed by TNG, whereas TZ and Getaway rely more on primary colors? Perhaps it's that. Whatever it is, I love TNG in LCD.

And I never noticed the twinkling of stars in TZ using LCD the way they pop in LED.

#16 42 days ago

My son and his girlfriend stumbled into a Police Force
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#17 41 days ago

Note to self: WPC PDB capacitors and bridge rectifiers to consider replacing

C4 - 470uF 25V radial
(5) C30, C11, C5, C7, C6 - C15KM25VRS 15,000 uF 25 v
C8 - 100uF 100V
C2 - 100uF 25V
(5) BR - KBPC3504-W

Marco's WPC-PDA12697X includes the 5 big caps, 5 BRs, and C8. C2 and C4 sold separately.

#18 41 days ago

Well it was a perfectly good capacitor I took out of TNG. I suppose if the fix holds it’s because reflowing the solder on all of the headers did the trick.

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#19 41 days ago

Got a shipment in from pinballlife
Pinbot visor baffle.
pinbot.gifBritemods LED flipper buttons for the Getaway. Not sure the other games need them.
6245115E-1362-4583-8D67-12D825EC558A (resized).jpegNew locks for all the games, keyed alike. Hid a spare key where *no one* will *ever* look
E7FEC72A-1D7E-4D44-ADCE-0405A843E71A (resized).jpegPingulp for all the games and cabinet protectors for all the legs.
2B536D0F-F6FF-42E3-A569-8141C395201B (resized).jpegPinbot ramp is stuck.
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#20 39 days ago

Updated TZ apron cards
from art bytranquilize. Print or adapt your own:
download here.

scroll up for info about what I put in my pricing cards.

#21 36 days ago

LED OCD in Funhouse. GI OCD was already installed. I think both are essential for this game. Tweaked GI OCD but the LED OCD seems to be just right out of the box.

#22 36 days ago

Completing the Cliffy install on Pinbot.

Pierce the adhesive so you can spot the hole from the other side and use the hole to align.
9E6A78E4-8B41-415E-A227-40C0686DB2E8 (resized).jpegHere's the left eject ready for cliffy.
2C868844-9B61-441E-9AE8-4B7747409C0B (resized).jpegPush the wire guide through the hole in the cliffy and get it carefully positioned before committing the adhesive.
97EEEB15-DF10-4EA8-9958-867F101C75B1 (resized).jpegLeft eye. Again, using the pokie tool and the wire guide to align the cliffy before pressing the adhesive.
38CD4BFA-B0CA-4803-B06A-1A6F2284A92C (resized).jpegRight eye.
FB1F30E8-43E1-4472-A3C1-150005779A87 (resized).jpegLordy but it takes a lot of disassembling to get to this point. Take pictures along the way.
3DC99F64-6907-4631-880E-B33149613736 (resized).jpegOn mine, the visor's upper left hole wasn't right. I have Kwikwood for the Getaway patch so let's see if it works.
E8BFE0AC-71EB-4C29-8E5F-68ABC5349CB9 (resized).jpegHole patched. Left a hunk aside to see how quickly it cured. Drilled an hour later.
59914F24-1E79-4731-AACF-BB7AF7AB16BD (resized).jpegBefore peeling the adhesive, lay in the visor cliffy and be sure there's no rubbing.
pinbot1.gifAdjusted visor height. Smooth baby!

#23 36 days ago
Quoted from spblat:

On mine, the visor's upper left hole wasn't right. I have Kwikwood for the Getaway patch so let's see if it works.

Yeah apparently williams had several runs of pin*bot and several playfield makers even well beyond the games release. I'll be elongating that hole in the next runs to accommodate variances.

#24 35 days ago

Getaway day!

Patched cabinet holes. Made a bit of a mess but it’s my first experience with KwikWood. Three coats of S100 and it’s a bit cloudy. Looks great from the player’s position. Installed Cliffy for the shooter eject. Only ball trail left is in the plunger lane. And a new beer barrier!
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#25 34 days ago

Assessed the coil stops in all the games, and found a missing bolt on a TNG coil stop! Replaced the bolt, applied loctite to all of the games’ coil stops but Funhouse, which is beyond ready for rebuild. It shows: the flippers have been a little lackluster. Plus new beer barriers for all the games but TZ, which was pretty clean already. And S100 wax for the Funhouse. After rebuilding the Funhouse flippers I need to clean the ball trails off the TZ and TNG.

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#26 29 days ago

Funhouse flippers rebuilt.

Two coils needed replacing. Got rid of the old-style plunger springs and used the smaller fliptronic springs for that snappy feel.
0EA7418B-FC3F-4F42-A599-E6DB2B9656BB (resized).jpeg I hadn’t realized Funhouse had NC EOS switches.B341CD83-762D-4690-9503-B5B2E6A2CBA2 (resized).jpeg Is this where this sticker goes? 0845550C-E0D0-4949-AD46-FEDC813E3D99 (resized).jpeg How does this happen?EE2BB893-A0E9-47A5-9C97-9EEAAB62565C (resized).jpeg

#27 29 days ago

You have been busy. Im jealous.

#28 29 days ago
Quoted from Chitownpinball:

You have been busy. Im jealous.

I’m a pig in shit lately

#29 29 days ago

Solved Funhouse flipper lag

Quoted from spblat:

This thread came up while I was looking for a flipper lag solution on my funhouse. I had rebuilt the upper flipper, including the coil, and it was still staying up for a moment after releasing the button despite a flawless mechanical arrangement.
Turns out the flipper button gap was too narrow in the second stage. Cleaned the contacts and widened the gap and all is well.[quoted image][quoted image]

#30 29 days ago

Day saver: clever approaches to a work surface. Beats the hell out of trying to solder stuff in open space.

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#31 28 days ago

Cleaned out the funhouse cabinet and took a crack at the lockdown receiver with some Brite Boy. It’s not HEP clean but it’s improved.

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#32 28 days ago

I never replaced the stripped leg plates when I got my TZ in the 90s. At some point I added the lesser plates. Why?
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Anyway, now my TZ has 4 new leg plates and the cabinet protectors are now installed on all the games.
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Broken TZ lane guide
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Waxed. It's still a bit cloudy in the wrong light, and there are still faint ball trails.
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But in proper light it looks lovely.

#33 27 days ago

Started working on a Getaway Pinsound mix.

Quoted from spblat:

Two things:

1) If you download a fresh copy of the factory sound set from Pinsound you will find that the events you've marked yellow are not among the files.
I have started a new spreadsheet in google sheets for planning purposes.<-- click
a) Everyone is free to copy this sheet for your own use.
b) Everyone is free (and encouraged) to edit column D in my copy, which is a note about each sound. Many of the descriptions are self explanatory, but there are some that need a more human description. For example, when specifically do we hear "main_theme_4" as opposed to "main_theme_3"? If you know, click above and enter it in! I'll be adding the notes @estroh
made earlier. Let's crowdsource some intelligence about these actions!
c) As I make progress in my first orchestration I'll be filling in column E. Then I'll probably amend the
scriptI made earlier to take data from this sheet and assemble the folders, taking factory files for any action that has a blank cell.

#34 22 days ago

TNG day.

Playfield glass was resonating with the thundering bass from the subwoofer. Replacing the beer barrier with thicker foam solved it.

Replaced coil interlock switch with a “cheater” version you can pull to engage, instead of clipping on that dumb yellow bracket.

Last night the trough optos all failed. Someone had diddled with the 5 pin connector on the emitter side and it didn’t take. Spliced one wire with heat shrink and used a punch tool to improve the connection. My next Marco order will include the parts needed to replace this connector.

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#35 22 days ago

Getaway. Replaced white standup with yellow. Nothing left to do on this but LED and Pinsound. Well, maybe a cabinet touch up.
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Edit: The multiball release had a tendency to release more than one ball. Disassembled it and found the coil sleeve was kinda gummy. Rubbing alcohol, new sleeve, a second spring in parallel with the first, and it seems good!

1 week later
#36 14 days ago

My TNG hasn't been right for months and I didn't quite realize it. Oops

Quoted from spblat:

I was today years old when I realized that most of the time the drop target should be down during the plunge. My "drop target down" coil (the red one, pictured above the green one) was energizing but the target wasn't dropping except on ball impact. Turns out the "down" coil was a bit loose, and the plate the coil pulls on was snapping away too far and binding against the PCB holding the lane lights. So I added a bit of foam, circled in red. Now the game plays as it should![quoted image]

1 week later
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