(Topic ID: 314029)

Spanish Eyes Help - Update - Last Issue Left

By iluvak9

2 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by iluvak9
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

Been working through several issues with my Spanish Eyes and was making great progress, but I've encountered one issue on my Spanish Eyes that has me stumped.

Rolling down any of the top A thru E letter lanes will also fire the coils for targets 1, 5 and 6 (but not 2 thru 4 or any other letters) as if those targets were also made. Also, if I start a game and avoid the top A thru E lanes, and just hit the #1 target, it will also fire the coils for #5 and 6.

I went through one round of cleaning and adjusting (if obviously needed) all the A thru E and 1 thru 6 relays contact switches that are found in the relay bank, but this did not resolve the issue. Was wondering if I should revisit these relay bank contacts to see if I missed something or if this issue is likely caused by something other than the A thru E and 1 thru 6 relays in the relay bank. Could a dirty Jones plug cause this? Score motor issue? It appears that, according to the schematic, the letters A thru E are daisy chained, the E letter is daisy chained to the 1 target and the 1 thru 6 are daisy chained all via red and yellow wires, so could it be a faulty switch and, if so, which one is the likely culprit? Or maybe something else I hadn't thought of?

I also noticed that the arrows for the hoop shot do not light as expected when all of the 1 thru 6 targets have been lit, but the eject hole does score based on the # of lit targets and it does add a ball and reset the 1 to 6 targets when the hoop shot is made. Also, the game correctly adds a ball when all the A thru E letter lanes have been completed. So, it is keeping track of what coils have been fired correctly (with the exception of not lighting the hoop arrows which I believe is handled by one of the switch contacts in the #6 relay).

Thanks, in advance, for any guidance.

#2 2 years ago

For your first problem with the letter and number targets, you must have a short between the left side (on the schematic) of the coils for #1, #5 and #6 relays (not the RED wire - the other one). They must in turn be shorted to the BR-YEL wire that's common to all the lettered relay m/b switches.

You'll need to really get in close to that bank of latched relays hanging on the underside of the pf and look for that short. Look carefully at the tabs side of the whole thing, but that short could be anywhere on that bank, I think.

#3 2 years ago

When the 1st 1000 points is scored, three bank relays drop. This tells me to check the 1-6 stand up playfield switches for a 3 bladed switch that will have 2 blades closed instead of none touching. Remove plastics to inspect each switch.
The hoop light problem is probably in the bank relay switches.

#4 2 years ago

I'm not sure that a shorted stand-up pf 1-6 switch would cause his first problem. If 2 blades of each 3-bladed switch were touching, one of the 2 switches would be closed. In the schematic below, any of the upper 1-6 switches being closed would immediately cause its associated relay to fire, which doesn't happen. Any of the lower 1-6 switches being closed would cause a constant firing of the 1000 pt relay.

I still think the short must be between the BR-Y wire (colored red on this snippet), and the wires that are colored green on the left sides of the numbers 1, 5 and 6 relays.

Apologies in advance if I'm wrong (sadly, a daily occurrence)....just trying to make sense of it looking at the schematic.
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#5 2 years ago

I think the schematic could have been drawn up better. Where they show normally open switches for the stand up targets, I would have shown make/make switches. When ever a stand up target switch has to do 2 functions like score points and drop a bank relay a 3 blade switch is used unless the bank relays are commoned to a series relay. The schematic does show 6 target switches that score 1000 points.

#6 2 years ago

Agreed...

2 weeks later
#7 1 year ago

Working my way through issues on Spanish Eyes and may be down to just this last one left associated with bumpers:

- All 4 bumpers score more times than they should. For example, when bumpers are lit they will sometimes register 100 score increase as they should, but just as often pulse twice and score 200 (100 x 2 pulses) or even 300 (3?pulses). If they score 100 when the score reel is at 900, they increment the 1,000 reel as they should, but the incrementing does not occur if they, pulse more than once to increase the 100’s past 900 (e.g., if on 800 and it erroneously scores 200 instead of 100, the hundreds reel moves to 0 but 1000 reel is not increased. The same thing happens when the bumpers are not lit and on 10 point scoring with the 10 (and 100) point reel.

This game has no bumper relay, just an “on bumper” relay that switches bumper scoring from 10 to 100. Bumpers scoring is driven by bumper switches and 100 point relay (or 10 point if not lit). Since this happens with all 4 bumpers, seems unlikely it is an issue with adjusting the switches on the bumpers themselves and also questionable it is an issue with 10 or 100 point relays.

Also, when the ball goes into the eject hole with no numbered targets lit, it correctly pulses the “100 point relay” 5 times and the 10 point relay works fine with all the non bumper 10 point switches which may also signal it is not a 10 point / 100 point relay issue.

Seems like this may mean it has to be a score reel issue, but that would mean same issue with 10 and 100 point reels.

Any help regarding what to diagnose would be appreciated. Since this game is so challenging, my scores really miss those lit bumpers incrementing the thousands reel

By the way, tracked down cross wiring / switch issue causing prior problem with your guidance as described in this thread as well as several other issues (e.g. arrows not lighting when all six targets made which was caused by need to clean and adjust the chain of 6 target relay switches associated with this). I think bumper scoring may be the last one left!

#8 1 year ago

I'd take a look at the EOS switches on the drum units themselves. There's a switch that's supposed to be NC, and then opens when the plunger pulls in to break the scoring circuit. There's also one switch on both the 10 pt relay and the 100 pt relay that is in series with the drum unit EOS switch. Makes sure those switches are clean and opening/closing correctly.

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#9 1 year ago

Update to description of bumper issue. I think we may have two separate issues.

(a) As to bumpers scoring more than ten or one hundred points per hit (depending on if lit or not), I noticed as I was working on the bumpers this week a pattern where they all scored correctly when I have the playfield in the raised position, but two of the four incremented the score reel multiple times each hit after I returned the playfield to the horizontal position - am I correct that this signals that the problem with the bumpers scoring multiple times is likely an issue with the bumper assemblies needing cleaning/switch adjusting and nothing to do with the backbox relays or score reels? I spent time this week cleaning the cups (spoons) and other switches on all the assemblies and this improved things somewhat reducing the problem bumpers from 4 to 2, but two are still acting up when the playfield is horizontal while working fine when in the raised position.

(b) Issue 'b' is the hundreds reel not incrementing the thousands reel when going from 9 to 0, which is likely an issue with either the 100 point score reel not being set right for the 9 position to zero position or the 100 point relay switch 1A that pulses the 1000 point relay thru the 100 point reel ninth position switch not working right. Is that correct?

#10 1 year ago

Check the make/break switch on the ON bumper relay . Clean and adjust switch if needed.

#11 1 year ago

Problems

A- Check your gapping on the contacts for the pop bumpers. Gravity has an influence on switches and while the playfield is up, the switches are probably making proper contact. when down, the gap increases. This can cause missed scoring or "chattering" that scores multiple times. In one case, I had a game that had a broken wire in the harness that when the playfield was up, functions worked properly and when down they did not. The harness would flex when the playfield was moved, but I think it's most probably the switches.

B- check your nine position switch on the score reel

#12 1 year ago

Update on Spanish Eyes:

Thanks everyone for your help. I can now play games with everything working correctly. Only issue left is that if I press the start button after a game has started, instead of resetting the machine and starting a new game, the machine will freeze and I have to go to the ball count unit and manually increment the ball count coil to reduce the count to zero balls and then the unit takes over and increments to 5 balls and a new game is ready to go. Not sure if this is a ball count unit issue or something else, but it is a situation which is easy to avoid and doesn't effect actual gameplay, so much less of an issue then the others I have contacted you folks about.

In case any of you are interested, here is how I fixed the two issues in my latest posting:

(a) Bumpers scoring more than 100 (10 points) when activated - this was actually caused by multiple issues all having to do with the bumper assemblies and it took some time to work through the adjustments to make sure the scoring was correct while also keeping the bumpers very active (which is key to making Spanish Eyes fun). First of all, the spoons (cups) were all very dirty and so I cleaned them as well as the plastic stick that maneuvers the spoons. This provided some improvement, but then I also adjusted the contact switches which also helped. As I was working on the assemblies, I noticed that the plastic stick that hit the spoon was making contact in different places in each assembly and so I adjusted them so that they were all centered before the bumper was activated. I also noticed that one of the spoons was bent and misaligned so I straightened out the spoon and the related metal contact. Finally, the bumpers are now very close to 100% accurate in terms of scoring the right amount each time they are activated and they also remain very active.

(b) 100 point scoring reel not incrementing 1000's when hundreds reel goes from nine to zero - I spent a great deal of time adjusting the 3 contact switches on the score reel, but no matter what I did I was failing to get the 100's reel to increment the 1000's reel. I pulled out two of the other score reels that was working fine and that is how I figured out the problem. It was not the 3 switches, but the plastic rocker arm that moves the switches that was the issue. I could see that the 100's reel rocker arm was adjusting the switches with less angle than on the other score reels. The rocker arm is attached to a score reel part via a retaining ring and so I adjusted how it was hitting the switches when the reel was on 9 (in particular to move the switch that was open to be better closed) and that did the trick.

Thanks again for all your help, and, if anyone has any ideas as to what to check regarding the game now resetting when hitting the start button in the middle of a game, let me know. Thanks.

#13 1 year ago

Since the Ball Count Reset solenoid doesn't activate during game startup,
Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-big-shot-repair#post-6305153
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

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1 week later
#14 1 year ago

I keep saying last issue left and then I post here with another question.

This time it is not an issue, but a question about a needed part.
I have the metal door for the backbox and the key lock hinge is in the cabinet, so I believe all I need is the right lock for the metal door (see attached pics of metal door and back of cabinet hinge).

Can someone please tell me what/type/size I should order to work with this metal door, hinge combo for the Spanish Eyes?

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