(Topic ID: 161262)

Space station: green mode lights

By scarybeard

7 years ago


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  • 40 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Platypus
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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#10 7 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

I believe there is a relay under the playfield that controls the GI. If you have a dmm, check both GI lines for voltage. That will tell you what to check next

Tracing wires is easier when you rely on the colors which usually follows consistently. I would look in the back box to confirm that you have power off of the power supply.

if you have power to the line side of the relay 5v(yellow wire?), you should have something on the other (load a or load b contacts) bad relays freeze open or closed. Don't confuse it with the coil side 25v (brown/black, brown/red?) is all of your GI out? both white and green? how about back box GI? if you don't have power at the relay make sure you have it coming off of the power supply. check both sides of the fuse in the back box, right side second fuse from the back, yellow/white wire

Looking at the schematics, it appears that the GI ckts come off of the power supply board connector 3J8 (pins pins 7 and 2). That connector is notorious for burnning up. inspect it close for any discoloration. Heni makes a good suggestion of buying a molex connector kit. the question is whether to buy the IDC or the crimp style. I prefer crimp style, but I'll sell you my IDC's if you wish(I bought a set specific for this game). There is lots of molex discussion, read more here http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

It looks like solenoids 9, 10, 11 control GI, Q9, Q16 and Q17. you might test those transistors.

#16 7 years ago

As I mentioned earlier. do you have power at the fuses 5v? then do you have it at the connector that attaches to the relay? I would confirm that everything up to the relay is good. there should be a schematic on the relay case to help figure what is what. going through the solenoid diagnostic tests #09 and #10 would activate the coil on the 25v side. do you have that?

#21 7 years ago

checking that connector was my suggestion three days ago. you can find other threads that talk about this. many folks buy enough connectors to go throughout their machine. my 1980 Bally is almost done. more info can be found here http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

you can find good info here too http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/tutorials/147-solid-state-pinball-tutorials

checking power at fuses is easy with a dmm. In voltage, DC mode put one lead on the ground braid and the other on first one of the brass clips and then the other.

you will get better at tracing problems as you go along but it is important to learn where things are failing rather than just replacing parts.

#22 7 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

If the pins ARE getting power, but the connector is the problem, is this a compatable replacement part?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/09-01-6091
I'll check if the fuses have power as well. I checked to see if they were all OK, but I did not test if they were getting power yet.

yes that is the part, they are 1/5th the price at pinball life.com or at GPE or Big Daddy. but you will need the connectors and the crimper also. alternately you can go the IDC route but you need the punch tool for those.

I inventoried all of the connectors on my machine(s) and ordered enough to do all of them rounding a few quantities up for better pricing. some think this is overkill.

#29 7 years ago

scary, the picture of your 3p8 pins show them to be defiantly burned and the solder joints look dry. that should be replaced.

concerning the flashers, have you gone through the test/diagnostic steps using the manual down and advance buttons? if it is the right side flashers, sol 03C then you can trace that back to transister Q32 and test that. also check your associated diodes.

use the manual regularly.

1 month later
#36 7 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Never mind. I found it.

where is that picture from?

#40 7 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

You should also reflow the solder on the connections of all of those under playfield relay boards. Everyone I have seen (3 Space Stations) has needed it badly.

I should check mine next time I am under the hood. I plan to recap my power board too

Quoted from wxforecaster:

Wow that takes the cake for cold solder joint. Easy find though!

It seems to me that most of my problems have been found by close visual examination.

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