(Topic ID: 58120)

Space Station Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 4,171 posts
  • 283 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 26 hours ago by RCA1
  • Topic is favorited by 125 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider rondogg.
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#1825 6 years ago

Can someone please take a picture of the underside of the single dtop target? Specifically the wire connector to the opto board? Thank you!

#1828 6 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

Heres what mine looks like:

Thank you!

#1829 6 years ago

Sorry, one more question. Is there a Resistor on the two lugs and what color are the wires going to the lugs? Maybe one more pic just a little to the left?

1 week later
#1851 6 years ago

Anyone watching Stranger Things? Music from SS sounds exactly like the show. Might make a cool retheme. How hard is it to change the callouts?

1 week later
#1865 6 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

There was a post on this thread earlier about how no one had the '1, 2, 3' paper cutout that goes on the upper playfield

LOL, I'm looking for one of those. PPS will probably never make it but they will also definitely never let anyone else make it. If anyone knows where they can be found please PM me.

#1872 6 years ago

New to Sys11s. Can anyone help me troubleshoot? The single drop target resets at each ball/game. I knock it down and the timer starts. When the target resets I get a tilt and it goes to the next ball.

I changed the diode on the solenoid and the transistor at Q22 has appropriate values. Any ideas on what to check next?

#1876 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to be checking diodes in the switch matrix. Look for one or two shorted diodes.

Replaced the associated diodes on the Aux Driver board, reflowed/tested everything associated with it on the AuxDB/CPU, reset the flaky groundbraid to the coin door, cleaned off all of the oil (?) on the drop target/board, checked entire switch matrix under playfield. Now works perfect.

The only thing not working now are the 3 1251 bulbs behind the backboard. I changed the toasty associated transistor and dmm'd what I thought was the predriver. Changed the bulbs. Anyone know an easy way to get back there to check the wiring?

#1879 6 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Pull the playfield forward off it’s hinge. Prop the pf up with a 2x4 or long level, Use a mirror

Thanks. I was thinking about using 4 clamps on the edges as a holder.

2 weeks later
#1918 6 years ago

There are a bunch of bad values in the manual and there is an Amendment to the manual here:

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2261/Williams_1987_Space_Station_Operations_Manual_Amendments_and_Additions.pdf

Just FYI...

3 weeks later
#1957 6 years ago
Quoted from waveman:

I just added space-themed vinyl stickers as side blades to my Space Station and I think they match the theme quite nicely.

This is a fairly easy and inexpensive mod. I got the idea from the STTNG thread here. I used a 48 x 12 piece of vinyl wrap from ebay.com link
for 9 bucks.

I cut the vinyl into two 6 x 43 pieces and made additional cutouts for the flipper buttons and the playfield hinges as I went along.
The only tricky part was to get past the flipped up playfield. My recommendation is to apply the sticker from the front about 2/3rd of the way and then fold the backing material and thread it between the cabinet and the playfield as shown below. You can then continue pulling the backing material off and applying the sticker.

The final results:

Wow that looks terrific.

2 weeks later
#2031 6 years ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

There's a saying that a picture is worth 1000 words. When asking for help this is definitely true and gets around a lot of the problems with terminology. I'll try to find some.
First things first - does the flipper plunger move into the coil freely when you push it in by hand? Does it feel the same as the other flipper? If they feel different, it could be a mechanical issue, not and electrical one.
If it's electrical...
There's two switches for each flipper. The cabinet switch, and the End of Stroke (EOS) switch on each flipper. If either of these is burned, pitted, not making contact, etc your flipper will be weak.
Cabinet switch:
The cabinet switch is easy to check as you can see it when you've lifted the playfield.

Are the screws tight?

Is the capacitor (usually brown disk) still attached to the switch?

When you press the button do the contacts meet before the button is all the way in? The contacts should rub together slightly when the button is fully pressed. If they don't, carefully bend the shorter arm of the switch closer. If you're adjusting the switch, use an adjustment tool close to the switch stack (either a proper tool or the blade blade screwdriver).

Are the contacts really burnt and pitted? If they are, you can try burnishing or sanding them as they are high voltage contacts (never file low voltage ones). It's often better to replace them if they are burnt.

If you have a multimeter, it's useful to measure the resistance across the switch when it's closed. It should be really low. If it's not, it's sapping power.

Is the plastic button firmly attached to the cabinet, not broken, etc (check against the other button)

Here's my flippers which work, but could use rebuild:

EOS switch:
The EOS is located on the flippers. There's two switches on each flipper. The switch closest to the coil and directly connected to the coil is the EOS switch. This is a high voltage switch. The second switch which is stacked with the triangular nylon spacer is the lane change switch. It is low switch connected to the switch matrix. Do not allow these to short together or the switch matrix won't work any more.

The EOS switch is on the flipper and should only be open when the flipper is fully plunged and it should be closed the rest of the time.

When you press the flipper plunger in do the contacts open just before the plunger is all the way in? The contacts should rub together slightly when the switch closes. If they don't, carefully adjust the switch. If you're adjusting the switch, use an adjustment tool close to the switch stack (either a proper tool or the blade blade screwdriver).

You should see the sliding of the contacts past each other as the switch is opened and closed.

Are the contacts really burnt and pitted? If they are, you can try filing or sanding them as they are high voltage contacts (never file low voltage ones). It's often better to replace them if they are really burnt.

If you have a multimeter, it's useful to measure the resistance across the switch when it's closed. It should be really low. If it's not, it's sapping power.

It's posts like this that build this hobby. A+

3 weeks later
#2085 6 years ago
Quoted from kechlesurf:

I am about to tackle my first flipper rebuild for my Space Station. I am doing the rebuild because my right flipper is weak and after looking at it, whoever did the soldering did a horrible job (none of the soldering is smooth) as well as the capacitor wire broke.
I ordered the Flipper rebuild kit Williams 1988-1991 that fits this machine. If anyone has any tips or advice, please share. Thanks!

Use a WPC flipper spring instead of that conical spring that comes with the kit:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-11-to-wpc#post-1798005

#2108 6 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I have mentioned this piece to Rick at Planetary. Believe he is on the lookout for this mold and feel that if he did find it he would reproduce them. I'll reach out to him again.

I'm sure if anyone tried to make one they would hear from Rick real quick, probably a nice letter...

1 week later
#2145 6 years ago

Not to take a huge step back here but has Rick at PPS confirmed that he does/doesn't have the molds? Maybe if we all got together and guerilla emailed him it would light a fire?

#2147 6 years ago

[email protected]
PPS (Here)

OK, I just emailed him and Pinside PM'd him. The more people who do this means a better response. Here's what I wrote:

"Space Station upper playfield

Seems like there is great interest on Pinside for this and we were wondering if you had the molds to make one. There seems to be some confusion as to whether you have it. It is injection molded to the best of my understanding and impossible to replicate. Can you answer our question? We would love to know if this is in the hopper for your company.

Thank you.

<name>"

#2178 6 years ago

Wow!

1 month later
#2285 5 years ago

4. Single drop target is somewhat slow

A previous owner coated the drop target mechs with oil. Took it apart and cleaned it good. Runs 100% now.

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