Hi all,

Joining the club! I'm new to this, and Space Shuttle is now my first pin. It's a fixer, but got it for $500. (Hopefully it's a deal). Almost playable, left flipper is super weak, but read a lot about getting a rebuild or upgrade kit or something.

I will be hitting you all up a lot, I know nothing about coils, EOS or anything else yet, but I'm a tinkerer. So far I can't figure out why the lights under the left scoring bumper (by the left flipper) don't turn on, both whites and greens, and greens up the rest of the left side don't turn on either. Everything is fine on the right side.

Nice to meet you all, and excited to find such a large community with the same machine!

Seth

Haha, dang, first post and I wrote the name wrong. #noob

I did in fact mean Space Station

Hey, I read about updating flippers on Sys 11s. I see two different rebuild kits on Marcos. How do I know which one it is?

Seth

Vids guide, I'll find it and check it out! Thanks guys!

Hey, new question about fuses. I'm still getting familiar with this machine, and I'm seeing about 5 fuses that are not as specified in the manual. There are 3 that should be 2A and 2 that should be 4A, and this machine has 5A everywhere.

So question, will that matter? Or could there be a reason it's a higher amperage?

That's what I thought, will do!

Hey, I know what the optics is, but what exactly am I cleaning on there?

Hi all, I need some help. 2 things:

Reading some repair guides, I tracked down a burned wire, my question is, where do I find this part? I jumped on Marcos, but I don't see the 9 pin female end of this connector. I hope this is why my GI on the left side has no juice. So, looking for this part. (I know, total noob question)

Also, I just upgraded my flippers, cleaned everything inside and put it all back together, but now my pop bumpers aren't popping. I just switched out a ton of fuses as for some reason they put 5's everywhere, so swapped out with what the manual showed. And they all look good still. Where else should I look?

Thanks all!

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Thanks 300, I'll check that out.

Crazy thing, I just figured out the pop bumper problem. I found something online about system 11 repair, and the fuses listed for the board were different than what's in the manual. For F3 & F4 online it said 2.5A fuses, and the manual says 2A. So I found another 2.5A fuse and swapped it out, back in action! Now I just need to replace that contact.

Day 2 of a fully operational machine. What a couple of days. Last night after playing my first few rounds with my boy on this machine (cleaned it up, new ramp, new flippers, etc.) I was finishing with some final table fixes when I turn it on and have the Adjust Switch notice pop up for the first time on switches 46, 50 and 52. So I think, "let me clean up and I'll get to it in the morning. I pick up the glass to move it to a safer location in case my kids go to that room, and as I'm carrying it ... it exploded... in my hands ... right before my eyes.

Thank goodness for shop vacs, but also, WTF? Did that just happen? So cleaning is how I spent my morning instead.

I come back tonight to give the Switch Adjust errors a go, when I realize ... no more error? So I play a round. What a round it was, my first high score at around 5 million! Time to enter my initials for the first time in my first ever pin ... and I can't figure out how ...

To top it all off ... the Adjust Switch error when you flip it on is back.

Sooo, roller coaster happening, but question: how are high score initials supposed to be entered? (I'll research the switch problem later lol)

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Ha, I was afraid of that. Flipper buttons did nothing at all. I went just over the point total for the last place point score to try it again, flippers didn't work, but the start button did advance to the next character, all still blank. So something else I need to figure out.

Also, when I got the machine, I could swear it was set up (when I tried it before buying) so when you hit the flippers it would rotate the 1-2-3 so you could move the open spot, which would help get that bonus. Added something fun to the game. Anyone know what setting that is?

Surprisingly only two small cuts, wasn't too bad. I might have had a minor case of shock though, my brain couldn't reconcile how that was possible, haha! I actually did a google search and saw this happened to someone else here at pinside, so at least I'm not alone in this phenomenon.

Amen to that, would be impossible to get out of everything. The glass looked like it was probably original, not in the best of shape. A lot of scratches on it. Time to open the wallet again haha!

Just checked them out, looks like my gap is fine, and I cleaned them. I might be wire hunting....

Negative, they aren't working in game play. They did when I first got it though, so I must have done something during the flipper rebuild.

Also, I bought this machine with the whole left side GI not working. I identified the IDC burned on it, but dang, I didn't know there was a punch tool I should have purchased with the new connectors. I don't want to pay shipping again from PL! Haha

Nice, I only really need the single pop bumper plastic. That one is missing on mine.

Actually, I want to ask a question about the red cap for that from bumper. Is it supposed to be chopped like this for the ramp to come through?

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Nice, I like the white under the space station, and I actually like the yellow lighting on the blue upper playfield too.

I have a question on the blue ramp for those that have it. At the bottom of the ramp, there's enough space between the left post and the drop target in front of the ramp for the ball to sneak through. The target doesn't drop when it gets behind there, so the ball just gets stuck and I have to remove the glass or full tilt the machine to get it out. Anyone else have this happen? Is there a fatter post pad I should consider getting to close that gap?

I'm at a 6-degree angle on the table, and there's not enough room for it to pass through on the right. I'll take a look and see if I can adjust over, I already pushed the ramp as far as it can go.

So mine is the same way, stops in random places, and I cleaned the optos. Which 15 pin should I be checking?

So here's a question from a rookie, since all the pins aren't used on this IDC connector, does it have to be a 15 pin connector/IDC that goes in there? (I have a spare IDC that has 13 spots on it that I would try out if it's all the same.)

How did you fix your issue? My lane diverter still doesn't get its placement right about half of the time.

I'm also interested in this if you decide to make more of those stations!

That would help, this is my first pin so totally learning as I go.

Buying one next week is on my list of things to do, my other one recently got pulverized in some house renovation. Ha!

Watched a little Big Daddy, look what I saw in the background of the apartment:

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Has anyone here put mirror blades in their space station cabinet? I'm thinking about it, but I heard the Williams ones don't necessarily fit the Sustem 11s, so seeing if anyone has experience with what to look ok at.

Hey guys, need some help. I’m replacing the IDC connector that runs the lights behind the back glass. I clipped the wires, but two of them are so burned I can’t tell which order they are in. Can someone take a pic for me? It’s the board on the inside left wall of the back box, the 4 pin IDC on the top left.

Awesome, thanks! The white brown looked just like the brown with how it burned haha. Thanks!

I’m back in action, thanks ajfclark!

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Good question, I really don’t think I do? I’m still new to this, just crossed the 1 year mark of owning pins, specifically my space Station pin haha! I’m still learning. I have some 3 annoying switch errors I can’t figure out, and can’t get my lane change switches working.

On start up I get adjust switch for 50. 52 and 53. Started since putting in the new blue ramp.

As for the lane change switches, no idea what’s wrong there. They worked when I was looking at buying it, didn’t work when I got it home. High scores are all blank names sadly because of that.

Ok, looking at it now, wire is there. Repeating meaning reflow solder? Or just pull it and put it back?

I don’t have a diode, but I did just purchase a DMM. Should I go right to that step? Also, I just bought the DMM last week, I need to learn how to check continuity

Ok, so I’ve checked continuity for each segment starting from the back box. It checked out, then checked from the back box to the idc at the optos board, and heard the sweet sound of continuity there too. (I guess I should have started with that. Ha!)

Not sure if this is odd , but before putting the space station section back on, I turned on the machine and the switch errors didn’t immediately pop up, though the credit dot was still there. Checked this multiple times. So tried to play it to see if Lane changes would work, but they still didn’t. So put the space station lanes and toy back on, then sure enough when I turned it on again the switch errors were back.

So back to continuity, does this mean it’s a board problem?

Yeah, I definitely know the Opto is an issue. But it’s on the same column right? The space station spends quite a bit and it doesn’t always line up correctly. I have already replaced the motor , And that only fixed the fact that I would try to turn the opposite way for a split second before turning the correct way. So I guess I have an extra motor, that might still be good. But I think the Opto board shouldn’t affect the lane change switches and others correct?

I think I understood about half of that haha. I have a DMM, how do I check the voltage?

I see Q42 and it looks like the round part of it is problem off. Could it be that?

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Feels like progress! I must be getting close, thanks for helping me diagnose AJ and Grumpy.

For checking flipper vs switches, how do I read that voltage-wise?

Ah, so more just ensure they aren’t touching? I need to start looking into what it takes to replace a Q42

Cool, I’ve soldered the IDC connectors before, assuming with smaller pieces it’s a bit tougher.

Also, there are three transistors on Marco Specialties that look the same or similar. How do I know which one to match it up?

New parts officially ordered. Now checking around for any switch issues ...

I’ve got an extra translite I bought but never used ... really because the prior owner had duct taped the one onto the backglass down on the bottom, electrical tape on the sides then the plastic brackets back over that. I’ll pull it out and take a picture for you. PM me.

I also have a second motor. I replaced it thinking I had a motor problem with the station not lining up ... but it’s a switch column issue that I’m working now ajfclark has been helping me out with. So if anyone is looking, let me know if your interested. The one thing it did do was my space Station would start turning the wrong way for a split second before turning the right way again, with the new motor that doesn’t happen. It sure what that means if anything at all for the motor since it already had the column issue and wasn’t working correctly anyway. But again, if anyone needs a motor, I’ve got one.

Concur with this one, I upgraded my flippers first thing as my left was weak, and the upgrade is awesome, and was easy to do.

Hey ajfclark, I just pulled off the board to replace Q42, when I saw this up on Q77. Can’t be good. What does this control?

It also looks different than the two beside it, was it the wrong part?

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New transistor is in on Q42 and I’m back in full action for the first time! The credit dot is still there, but hey, The station lines up every time and condition green’s galore are about to happen! Thanks ajfclark for all the help!

Credit dot gone! Thanks again! This game is so different when you can plan for Condition greens and up the scoring through completing the 1,2,3 and U,S,A roll overs. I also feel spoiled now that the station lines up perfectly and even directs the ball to the lock you need if you hit the left orbit. Lol

I thought beating my high score would be easy, and that I’d get it done in my first try last night, but looks like it will take more work to top the 4.6mm I got when none of this stuff worked. Haha. Here’s to pursuing greatness!

Yup, all the top scores are blank names because of the lane changes. And for sure love hearing the tune and getting the lights. Definitely going to reset the scores

That’s amazing - coming together nicely! Mines in good shape, but I think blue would still look best!

That blue upper is no joke, nice work!!!

Came down to do some laundry, popped it on for a quick game, and set a new record on my machine! ajfclark seriously man, thanks for helping me get the game right!

You know, I’m already picturing what matching pop bumpers might look like ... thoughts???

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I want one, so much more crisp looking!

Does it come in white? Wondering if can match the backglass a little more.

Mine ended up not being a motor problem. I replaced the motor but it was still happening to me, so now I have an extra motor. Mine ended up being one of the transistors. Around Q77 if I remember right. I think it’s in a post somewhere.

Mine does this quite a bit too ... ?

The station alignment is either optos, motor or in my case, it was a transistor. I wish I would have known that before buying a new motor haha. I think it was Q...67??? Check around there on the board and see if you have a transistor out.

The station itself can be adjusted by the top nut if I remember right, but also check and see if your ramp is sitting too high, my wireform worked more smooth after I adjusted it down for example.

Mine is missing that same one!!!

Yup, the sound and light show are essentially the reason I keep holding on to this one! Well, this and because it was my first pin. Ha

Would love to see pics of the strips in action!

The only way it works is if you leave those two lights and add a light that pulls power from another socket in the GI that doesn’t flash that way. I had the same thought a number of years ago haha.

I keep them white, but that’s just personal preference. In fact, whe I honed in my back box lighting, I used 3 different white: natural, sunlight and warm, depending on where it fell on the station to help the shading pop. It looked way better than just using one white, of course used color where needed like red on the planet. I miss my Space Station sometimes

This happened to me all the time. I made an adjustment to the ramp using the little screws in the plate and moving it over slightly. Didn’t take much at all, but that little amount took care of it.

For me this is exactly what it was, the transistor on the main board behind the back glass. I don’t recall which one, but worked perfectly after replacing it. I think I have it in a post somewhere in this forum.

I was thinking the same thing, it looked a whole lot like the time expander! I need to look closer for the diverged, did it change directions spin-wise on one of the layers?

whoa, now that’s cool!

When I had it, I liked white lights the best in the chasers. For the rest of the back glass, I used 3 different whites based on the artwork that I thought really enhanced the foreground/background. Cool, warm and sunlight whites. Some color down on the planet of course, and for the ship on the lower left, I always wanted to mod in a flame bulb and angle it with the artwork. Never got there though.

I did this with my freeplay40 ramps. I had 6v light strips on the side wall so the blue ramp was lit up during normal play, and green strips made the ramp glow green during condition green. I’d do it again in a heartbeat, looked great!

Right, mine I used the GI with a matrix splitter on it.

I tried things, but in the end was happy with putting two LED strip lights on the side wall under it. White or blue for the normal GI (I went white) and put a green one connected to condition green there and in the back corner. When the ramp goes fully green it looks awesome!

I’m back in the club! This was my first pinballs machine purchased 6 years ago. The hit that started the addiction. Sold it last year thinking it was time, and regretted it. Super happy to find one again!

Question - I’m thinking of going either clear or blue with the pop bumper caps. I saw a little while back someone did clear, has anyone done blue?

That was the issue on my first Soace Station - Q42 had blown somehow. Did the suggested above before I found it, reflowed solder, I even bought a new motor, but it was just the transistor, which didn’t look bad just looking at it until I multimetered it.

Working on this Space Station I recently traded for. One of the coils under the pop bumpers is fried and locked up. (Part #AE-23-800). My question is, that one had a diode on it (bottom right pop if you are under the playfield, top right above the playfield), but the other two don’t have a diode. I want to be sure I buy the right coil, can someone tell me if it is supposed to have a diode or not?

Also, what’s with the fin shank screws being unobtanium? I broke two of them unfortunately…

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That’s good to know, that maybe The switch at the spoon is what I initially locked it on. I think it’s been this way since I’ve got it, I don’t think it happened when I turned it on. And I’ll check there, because it’s locked up even when the game is off. So I’m thinking the coil is burned up as well, but I’m taking it apart tonight to know for sure.

Waiting for the front bumper coil to come in, but rebuilt the front pop bumper. It was my first time in 6 years and 40 machines I’ve had to do it, so I screwed up a bunch of times, even with following Vids guide haha. Almost there, but flipped my pop bumpers to clear caps, and cut the angle off the front one using the original red as a guide. Once I get it all sorted I’ll take a pic lit up, but love how it brightens up the plastics above the pops. .

Hopefully I get it working next week to snap a follow up pic after the parts arrive.

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Hi all, need some help on this one. I just got my pop bumpers put back together, and fired it up to test them out. But on start up, there’s a constant clicking happening, I think it’s coming from the Backbox? Anyone know what that could be? About 5 seconds apart each click.

I put in a new coil for the pop bumper that was burned up. Now when the ball hits any pop once the fuse blows. I am wondering if this means I needed the coil with the diode?

When the playfield is up vertical it’s the one furthest down towards the bottom.

Awesome, thanks! The other two don’t have a diode correct? I think I bought this one looking at the other two. I gotta find a diode for this one now I guess.

That’s super cool?

Yup, that happened to me. Jumped at the chance to get one back. Fixing it up as we speak! My latest problem is whenever a ball hits any pops or slings, it blows the fuse. might send my board to someone that knows them better than me since I already replaced the transistors - work had been done to them before I got to it, so there’s some crispy things going on there.

Bummer, looks like they’re OOS. Also, does it work with sys11? Says sys3-7 on it?

Ha, my bad, that was supposed to end in an ! And not a ?

Right next to each other on the keyboard

I hear you on this. SS was my first game ever, and as the collection grew over 6 years I got on and off the fence about it. Finally decided to sell it a little over a year ago. Big mistake, totally missed it! Luckily found another one a few months ago. A bit of a project, but looking forward to having it back!

I’m not in on Star Wars-ing it. But a Space Shuttle would look good, and potentially some astronauts. That’s what I’ve been considering along with a green LED light strip up there hooked into the GI for Condition green action.

Just my .02

I thought about modifying and painting a Deep Space 9 space station actually haha

Super good, and so is the light show after beating condition green!

Question: Anyone know if there are any plastics protectors on this game? I'm on my second Space Station (First game I ever owned, and regretted selling it). On my first one, the slingshot plastics were broken at where they extend towards the flippers. I can see these are bent a little there too, wondering if I should put some washers under the two posts through the metal ball guide to help them sit at the same level as the star posts. But also figured it would be good to protect them with a stronger protector.

I've done quite a bit of searching online through all the usual suppliers of plastic protectors, nothing is turning up. So thought I would check and see if anyone has seen them on here. Thanks!

That’s a good idea, I didn’t know they would do custom stuff

I think I need that one too - dang

Is there a way to convert the 1251? Like, throw in a diode to drop the voltage so it can run 89’s?

Oh really? That’s so simple … I think I’m actually going to do that!