(Topic ID: 58120)

Space Station Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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#138 10 years ago

Checking in!

I finally got my Space Station!!! I discovered it 3 years ago in a friends game room not working properly, they look off the glass and let kids touch the play field at parties!!! I finally convinced them to let it go. I got it home, and it needs some tlc, the Space Station toy is broken, so I need a new one. All the rubber is shot, replacing it next week. the plastic ramp is cracked and broken at the launch, so I'll be trying to repair it asap, and then replace it if anyone makes a new one (found a thread here where someone is attempting it) Someone painted the cabinet green!!! Im going to try and get the paint off, it doesn't look primed, so maybe, if not, Ill shop the exterior back with stencils.

I opened the back box and the batteries were spewing acid, I pulled them and cleaned the battery holder, and cleaned every where the acid got, luckily no damage was done except to the battery holder, I'll be replacing it with a new one and relocating it off of the board.

I turned on the machine and all is well, I just have to cycle the audits, since there are no batteries, and then the game starts

Please someone let me know if there's a replacement Space Station toy!

Glad to join the club!

#141 10 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Did you try doing a forum search and on ebay?

I did, I couldn't find anything, but I'll check again

1 month later
#155 9 years ago
#156 9 years ago

I really need some help here with a fuse blowing at F3

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-station-keeps-blowing-2-amp-fuse#post-1655027

Thank you!

3 weeks later
#158 9 years ago

When I turn on SS it tells me to adjust
the
43 R. lock entry
46 plunger
63 left kicker

What do I need to do?

I could understand maybe the r lock entry, I leave everything unlocked

but the plunger?

and the left kicker?
Left kicker seems to be good

#163 9 years ago

I have a manual!!! thanks a lot guys! I will fix it all up tomorrow, hopefully with a few pics of a few slight mods I have done

#167 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Here's how 4 double spot lights light up the pf, before and after and a Comet purple 7 led, 6.3v led strip lights up the center drain and another white strip lights up, from above, the ramp entrance which I will probably change to a purple also. Plays great in a dark room.

Where did you get your spot lights? And the comet purple led strips?

Really nice

#169 9 years ago

Thanks MustangPaul!
here's a preview...

IMG_1798.JPGIMG_1798.JPG IMG_1799.JPGIMG_1799.JPG
#171 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

A Lego spaceman?

You'll see
I'm waiting on a few parts before I mount them

#173 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I know...he is going to float above the pf on back pack thrusters right.

Dangit! it was supposed to be a surprise,

#177 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

WOW!!! Talk about a STATE OF THE ART mod. What do I win?

1 Free Play on my machine! and really good pics of the lego mmu if you want to copy my idea later after I finally finish it

Still waiting on parts

#179 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I'll take it....I'll be over tonight to claim my prize.

did you come over last night? if you did, I didnt know, I was riding my mechanical bull and got thrown off, hit my head, my wife said I roamed around in my game room for three hours chanting "conDITION GREEN" I woke up this morning with a green LED in my mouth

#181 9 years ago

Ok, Im sobered up from my fall with the bull, too bad it wasn't alcohol....
and I got parts in!

14453218925_b8b74b426e_k.jpg14453218925_b8b74b426e_k.jpg

14451862902_a932130ade_k.jpg14451862902_a932130ade_k.jpg

14451864342_955f8c202f_k.jpg14451864342_955f8c202f_k.jpg

#185 9 years ago
Quoted from waveman:

Great looking mod! How do they hold up during game play?

Thank you guys... they hold up well, the essential parts are glued to gether, and the post screws keep the gray support arm from letting them move, easily mountable all over the play field

#187 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

So... Recently made a new clear ramp for High Speed that has been pretty well received. Have decided I want to do another one and have picked Space Station (right ramp) since they are simply unavailable. Just spoke with a friend that has agreed to loan me his game so that I can get started on it. Will keep all posted as I go.

Nice! I needed something to spend money on, LOL!

#193 9 years ago

it's such a coincidence that I have gotten a high speed and a space station within the last 3 months, and Freeplay40's doing all these amazing ramps that haven't been pursued in a long time, kudos Mark!

1 month later
#196 9 years ago

From SS ramp thread...

Quoted from Chosen_S:

Space Station toy alternative:
I'm having a lego model artist design and build a replacement, I know it's not the usual speed of doing things here, but I have been an avid lego fan for decades, and thought it would be fun to have a lego Space Station to swap with the original. We plan to incorporate some Led's... I'll post pics and info when it finishes

Update with this... Things are moving forward, we have the shape down, the edges are being worked on.

#204 9 years ago

I bet he makes them whilest in that hot tub

2 weeks later
#228 9 years ago

Got my LEGO Astronauts with APU's installed
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sorhp/14453218925/in/set-72157645249323535/

What do yall think?

14451862902_3429bf813b_z.jpg14451862902_3429bf813b_z.jpg 14978915922_fa024bf1f2_z.jpg14978915922_fa024bf1f2_z.jpg 14956274466_fb4df3540a_z.jpg14956274466_fb4df3540a_z.jpg
#232 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Looks like they kind of wiggle around when you play. Cool.

I used a little hot glue in the joints and connectors (hot glue not visible) and it stabilized them and kept the one on the left from drooping onto the playfield every once in a while. you have to hit a really solid shot close to them for them to wiggle a little bit, but them being on there makes for a really cool effect, and sparks some conversation.

#234 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

What is the little round thing in front of them?

We tried to design the mpu from the picture on the translite, I believe it is a tool

1 month later
#259 9 years ago
Quoted from Rec:

Just to keep this forum alive, I found some photos from the renewal days.
My friend recommended to repaint the white areas, and I'm glad that I said yes.
He did a very good job. The only mistake was that there was a little G letter next to every socket in the green GI circuit, and they were also painted But it took an extra 2-5 minute job to find them
He also polished the inserts, looks better than factory IMHO.

DUDE!
Thats killer!
Now LED That bad bay, it makes it pop, way worth it!

2 weeks later
#292 9 years ago

Thanks for the info, mine must be on hard then, it always resets

1 month later
#305 9 years ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

Maybe this was covered already, but has anyone come up with a better Space Station model? I've added the transparent blue ramp mod, which really livens up that upper right area, but the station model is really weak. Anyone find something cool as a replacement mod?

Ive been working with a friend on getting a LEGO Space Station Model built, that will slide in to place... its still in progress

1 month later
#354 9 years ago

Its hard to beat the look of the original space shuttle target decals though, they are dark, so maybe a different approach for lighting them up would help...
I like the idea of the led strip above them, but have reservations of attaching anything sticky to the plastic above...

1 week later
#376 9 years ago

My SS just started resetting, GPE has no power supply rebuild kits, so Im guessing I may buy a new one, anyone have a good resource, brand and model to recommend?

#378 9 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Before you do that, replace the "big blue" capacitor. That fixed the resets on my game, without doing anything with the PS board.

Where did you get yours?

#390 9 years ago

I'm in the process of replacing all of the Capacitors on the Audio, MPU, and Lamp Driver Board

Here are the Values I have on my Boards

Audio Board:

16V 470uf 85degrees X2
16V 1000uf 105degrees X2
35V 100uf 85degrees X3

Crystal 3.576545 K.D.S.

MPU:

35V 100uf 85degrees X3

Lamp Driver Board:
100V 100uf 105degrees X2
100V 10uf 105degrees X2

2 weeks later
#398 9 years ago

The

Quoted from spottedcheetah:Can anyone tell me how many "flasher LEDs" are on the Space Station Pinball game. When the machine was upgraded to LEDs, none of the flashers were done and I would like to see about doing that.

The 1251's in the back of the playfield don't have LED counter parts, you still need to use 1251 incandescents, unless you place resistors on the sockets

1 week later
#403 9 years ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

I can look into building the molds for the upper PF, i own a tooling shop and that's What we do. been building molds for 35 years. I've built several molds for PPB and have some other reproduction parts in the works. I have a Space Station pin, great pin that everyone tries to buy from me. My upper PF has a crack but plays fine.
Met Rick and started taking on some projects for work and love of the hobby.
Looks like a fairly easy part to make, seems a little thin to me. i have access to any original drawings.

I'll be in for a matching blue one, it'd be great if you had a way to make it a bit thicker

This is great!

#410 9 years ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

I can look into building the molds for the upper PF, i own a tooling shop and that's What we do. been building molds for 35 years. I've built several molds for PPB and have some other reproduction parts in the works. I have a Space Station pin, great pin that everyone tries to buy from me. My upper PF has a crack but plays fine.
Met Rick and started taking on some projects for work and love of the hobby.
Looks like a fairly easy part to make, seems a little thin to me. i have access to any original drawings.

Yes... Plug and play option a must, with stickers - a life saver

#417 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Had a nice conversation with pinball-pimp today about the upper left injection molded playfield and.... I also mentioned there was interest in a transparent Space Station diverter which is also injected molded. He seemed pretty interested so let's all cross our fingers!

Dude! Sweet! Thank you guys for looking into this!

#426 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

well your in the wrong hobby then.

Yeah, I think space station has been my cheapest so far... Ramp, led's, toys, stencils, board work... It's funny though because I always dream about playing it when I'm away from it, my woz just pisses me off and I swear it's laughing at me, but ss is like a really good old friend who's conversation is always satisfying and leaves me wanting more... Ok that just got creepy, guess I've been staring into "space" a little too much

#438 9 years ago
Quoted from bpull:

I think he will, we are testing them right now. trying to decide if we should cast them or leave them 3D printed. These would look good on Space Shuttle too I think. I will be sure to have him start a thread once he has some ready to sell.
Brian

I wander if there's possibility of putting orange leds in the booster somehow... I think I've seen a hollow rod before???

#444 9 years ago

So... I have my game setup on freeplay... And I guess I have the so called "credit dot" ?
There a dot on the bottom right of the upper left display... What do I do to get rid of it?

#446 9 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

That dot is an indication that there is an error.
Go into audits to find out what the error is. It may also display what the error is during the boot up sequence when you turn the game on.
It may be a switch that's not working, or simply one that hasn't been hit during game play in a long time. Game cannot tell the difference.
Need to see what the error is before you figure out how to fix it.

Cool! thank you, the error is one of my left sling switches, been fussing with it for a while

#450 9 years ago
Quoted from BCpinhead:

Haha...volkdrive, I think you and I need to order 2x parts to save on some USA shipping! Lol...
I'm looking hard at the xpin replacement power supply board. Pretty much sure I will order that. Also discovered several cooked-looking TIP122 transistors on the CPU board ....scary! Cannot believe it has not burst into flames.

You can rebuild / bullet proof your power supply by rebuilding it with a kit from Great Plains electronics, it will save you some money

#453 9 years ago
Quoted from BCpinhead:

thanks chosen.
I was looking at that kit on gpe site and swore it said out of stock. I'll have to go back and check.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=WAN-HVP-KIT
?? Did you order this kit recently? How is your machine working out for you anyways?

It works great! I emailed the gentleman at gpe , and he put the kit back in stock for me a few weeks ago, I bet if you email him, he can accommodate you

2 months later
#457 9 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

Currently mine is now fully functional. Now ordering all parts for the refurbish and customisation. Probably last project for awhile so its going to be very unique...will post an update on it as I go along. Plans so far:
Xpin display
Speaker upgrade
ramp LED
LED kit
shaker motor
Freeplay ramp
LEDs, Titan rubber
Glow/lit starposts
multi color flipper buttons
one of a kind topper (ordered)
Crazymuffin's TV mod with space themes installed
shuttle with led burners on pf
new plastic kit
interactive pop bumper lights
under cab light kit (just Sylvania kit from Costco - but still a nice effect).
Lots of work ahead on this one, but its in great shape cabinet and playfield so its a great candidate

Having done a restore also, I'll be watching, always curious of others cool ideas / findings!!!

#469 9 years ago

I paid $210 for mine, it had the glass off for years in a kids party room... 125 hours and about $500 later...

Did I mention that the cabinet was painted green? The whole thing!

image.jpgimage.jpg
#476 9 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Dang, you really did a great job on it. You were in the right place at the right time for sure. How was the stenciling?

The stenciling wasn't bad, it was my first try, if I had to do it again... The red part, I'd paint white first, let dry for 10 minutes and then spray red, it took too many Coates of the red to get it passable. The Reds still dark, and not as bright as I wanted it to be. But I'm really happy with it, I get excited every time I pull the other games away from it to look at it... I also sprayed the white parts with glow in the dark spray, it's really cool, needs black lights to really pop

I bought it from a family friend, it took me 5 years of prodding to get them to let it go, they're wealthy, but they didn't want to give it away, I offered more, then they said $250, the shooter rod had gone missing, then they handed me $40 back to pay for the part... I laughed and told them I needed to pay a lot more. They just said to send pictures when I finished the work... I feel really blessed

image.jpgimage.jpg
#478 9 years ago

Stencils I bought... first thing that google sent me, they worked great, fit great, there is some skill to setting the stencils, just take your time

http://www.twistedpins.com/products/stencil_kits/?ProductID=134

decal?!?! no way dude! keep it old skool!

Spray it down.... I did see a guy that changed the red to neon green, it looked awesome!

#490 9 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Price check on these?

I think he might have meant space station as a whole???

#495 9 years ago

I'm curious if everyone else has a hard time shooting the ramp?

Of all my games, it is the single most difficult shot for me to hit.

#499 9 years ago

F*** that Drop Target !!!

#504 9 years ago

F-14 is so brutal, I could hardly keep a game going. Maybe I'll be better at it in the future, but man, it was maddening! I found a Radical and basically traded F-14 for it.

#506 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I hear ya, mine lasted a couple months. Nobody would play it cuz it was so brutal, I was the only one.

Yours lasted longer than mine, I had it in my garage for 2 weeks, then pie-yah! Outtahere! Glad I had one though, it led to me getting radical... Radical will never leave, it's part of the family now

#507 8 years ago

Does anyone have any good ideas for toppers?

#524 8 years ago
Quoted from bpull:

Hi Tony,
I'm the one that did the thread on the vacuum stations. I have been planning and trying to make some more but life has been crazy busy and pinball has taken a bit of a back seat since my wife and I adopted a baby a year ago this May. But now that things are somewhat returning to normal (as in sleep) I'm finding more time to work on things and I hope to get some more of these out real soon.
sorry it's been taking so long everybody,
Brian

Put me on the list too, mines broken and holding on by a thread

#528 8 years ago

I do, I'll post them here tonight

#530 8 years ago

I personally sent them to walgreens and had them printed on glossy photo paper, for under $5.00

enjoy

Space Station Custom Cards 2.jpgSpace Station Custom Cards 2.jpg

Forgot to mention that these are print ready, no need to resize, print on an 8x10, and trim

#544 8 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Hey guys. Did anything ever come of that talk a few months ago about making new upper playfields? I'm still hoping that happens... mice lived on mine.

It would be awesome to have a new one, and a new space station toy

1 week later
#555 8 years ago

What if I get a LEGO Designer to step in and make one?

#557 8 years ago

True,

Maybe we need Mezel or another mod shop to step in... 3d printing??

3 weeks later
#561 8 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

How many of you guys have experience with TP stencils on this game? I am about to get one with a pretty rough cab and it will need repainted. Is Twisted Pin the only available option?

I used them, turned out great, my bottom corners used for alignment were worn, so I had to eyeball them to get things straight, no big deal, the graphics look amazing,

On the red part, spray with white first for the first coat, then spray red, I had to do 4 coats of red because I did not do a white backdrop

#564 8 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

That's good news, Chosen. Thank for the tip. Mind if I hit you up via pm for some more tips? I haven't picked up the game but it will basically be free. I'm looking forward to digging in this summer. It sounds like a cool pin!

Right on, anytime

3 weeks later
#572 8 years ago

Heck Yeah!!! That Beer Bottle Is Cool!

Hey Guys, I want to add in some under cab lighting that will react with the flashers... as in... anytime any of the flashers turn on, I want the under cab lighting to turn on too... any Ideas of where I can hook in to, to make this happen?

#579 8 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

Check with Rock Custom, they may have a kit or be willing to make one. Got one for my SOF from them, so they do system 11 as well as the newer machines. Easy installs and not outrageous for price too.

Cool!
I'll check them out

#585 8 years ago
Quoted from Platypus:

Is it worth reducing the voltage? Those bulbs do not need to be that bright and standardizing bulbs might be good. Are there any other 1251's? Also how do people access those? especially the two flashers (red), do you have to drop the socket? One of my bulb covers is melted and I will be replacing it, I think using LED's for this hard to access spot is good.

Do a search in this thread, someone found 1251 leds, I plan to get some sometime

#590 8 years ago

Yes the drop targets are supposed to reset at the beginning of the game, then every time all 3 have fallen down they reset again

It's possible, unless the coil is bad, do they reset at all? Is wiring good? How about the transistor?

#594 8 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

Note, he's not listing it, but if you contact him here or through his website should work.

I think they're listed, I bet they're awesome, think I'll be ordering a set soon. Thank you for the heads up

2 months later
#598 8 years ago

Rock customs under cab led kit is good for space station

#601 8 years ago
Quoted from mrgone:

every time I think of Space Station I think of this song.
» YouTube video

hehe cool, next time I play mine for a stretch,Im gonna blast that over my stereo

#602 8 years ago

dupe

#603 8 years ago

I'm looking for a new playfield for mine if anyone has any leads, of course I'd love a diamond plate, but anything NOS will be great

1 week later
#606 8 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

New member as of today
CRiufDlUwAAmIBW.jpg
20151017_195214.jpg
Bought it at expo, guy brought it from nebraska. Has a tax sticker that it was routed in 2013, yet the playfield still looks great

Nice score! Glad to have another member to share the love!

#613 8 years ago
Quoted from doughslingers:

I have noticed some Space Stations have different backbox light configurations. Had two recently and tried to leds backbox but both were different and turned on differently. Just curious if others know why? I haven't fully read all 13 pages but will later tonight. Also what is code green? Never saw that in my pin. Do I have an early code? If so what is the latest rom update?
I will have a fully populated playfield for sale once my new one is returned from getting clearcoated

PM sent...

"Condition green" is what happens during multiball, the gI turns off and a different GI turns on, all green lamps.

I don't know what version rom I'm running

#615 8 years ago
Quoted from Platypus:

playfield

Condition green is a blast! playing with multiple players helps get to it since "docked" balls carry over with the proper adjustment setting
My condition green really popped when I switched to green LED's. but some where you can see the bulbs directly, like near the flippers, were a little harsh. I added some green condoms to them and they look great. I also used condoms on the four yellow and four blue LED's on and below the upper playfield

This a good idea, letting the locked balls carry over from player to player. I used frosted LED's for the green

#631 8 years ago

I'm in the club to stay, can I get a condition green!

#635 8 years ago

I know there's a few fellows out there that need a translite, mine in fact is cut a little short, and faded a little. a few of us are looking for NOS, and can't be found as of right now. However, if some one has a really good scan file they can share with me... well, PM me and we can go from there.

#638 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

But then you'd have PPS mad at you.

Well, maybe pps needs to print some so we can have them.

#643 8 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I would be willing to cut them by hand on my new reproduction.

Quoted from toyotaboy:

My translite is pretty nice, I might be willing to do a scan, but those 6 cutouts look tricky

Im confused, what cutouts are you referring? my translite has no cutouts, it's just a translite behind glass, am I missing something?

#645 8 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

The original factory translite is really thick. Almost like vinyl. There are small windows cut completely through where several of the lamps are located. You may have an aftermarket substitute if yours is more "normal".

Does anyone have a picture of that, I've never seen it or even known about it

#649 8 years ago

I always thought there was some thing wrong with mine, now I know... All the more reason to find a better one

#654 8 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Scanned my translite. Between dust, tiny little scratches you can barely see, and adjusting colors (and scan ghosts), it's still going to need cleaning up.

PM sent

#663 8 years ago
Quoted from joey__p__1966:

Hey Swampfire, I still remember the gathering at my house! Glad you were inspired by the game, I really love mine. You have LED's in yours, or std bulbs? Like to see one in person that's LED cool white.
I ordered the insert decals yesterday, gonna pull the playfield out soon and pull the mylar off. Is not a matter of will it pull paint off inserts, just how bad
I'll clear it with automotive clear, and convert it to LED's. I'm working through all of my pins doing full topside refurbish/shopouts being most have been in my house for 20 years and in need of a good cleaning. Space Station is the last to do, and then I will do an open house here again, hopefully by end of the year. I'm due to host again, its been 15 years !

Curious, does your playfield have raised inserts?

#672 8 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

"Wanting to see if there is any interest in the Space Station translite. If interested PM me. "
Not sure what that means. Mine is scanned, and me and someone else is cleaning it up (mostly to put the contrast back in from the fade and cleanup scan ghosting)

I've got about 3.5 hours in on it, those scan lines! Oye vey, scratches are coming out great, but those scan lines

#673 8 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I'm super-conservative with LEDs; I only used them to solve problems. Space Station was too hard to see in the dark, so I did the GI in cool white and I was happy enough with it that I kept it that way. Then I did the green GI for the same reason.
On 90's pins, I'd rather add reflector spotlights than use LEDs. I did this for Dirty Harry, and I need to do Congo too. I don't like warm white LEDs, because they look too yellow-green to me.

The warm retro looks great in my opinion
Got them from cointaker

image.jpgimage.jpg

image_1.jpgimage_1.jpg

#677 8 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

slowly getting the translite cleaned up with the help from Chosen. After all the art is cleaned, I'll probably want to tweak the contrast settings (even after an initial adjustment, I think it's still too washed out). Here's what the raw scan looks versus it adjusted. You can see how much not only a translite can fade (even when it doesn't seem so), but what a scanner can do to wash out colors:
s-station_raw-vs-contrast_adjust.jpg

Looks much better, I'll send over my work so far this evening

#681 8 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Lighted flipper buttons and rebuilt both flippers this weekend!

image.jpeg image_1.jpeg

where's the new capicator?

2 weeks later
#704 8 years ago

Finally... After dealing with a difficult parts dealer... Finally

There's Mylar on it though, and it's already bubbling :/
So that sucks

image.jpgimage.jpg

#709 8 years ago
Quoted from Platypus:

Wouldn't you be best to strip the mylar and clearcoat?
My mylar is not that great with a little bubbling, but I am not ready to do a teardown and reassembly. but you have a blank slate.
What do people use for injection? will it hamper a mylar removal in the future?

Apparently system 11 games are notorious for lots of issues with removing Mylar. I can get the Mylar off no problem, but with removing the glue will take off all of the printing from the inserts.

Luckily there's only one insert that is raised on this nos.

I don't have any knowledge or experience on injection for the bubbling Mylar :/

I'd love to clear it. It will take a while to get to it. Just glad I got an nos pf, was worried it wouldn't happen

#725 8 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

So ordered some backlit posters last week, deal couldn't pass up. They came in today. So since the original is double sided printed, obviously it's going to have a little better distilling. Not saying it's bad (in fact in some sections it's nice because the LED really pops through), but there's a little more hot-spotting with the LED's I have in it.
space_station_original.jpg
space_station_new_print.jpg
If you look very close, you can see the dots (300 dpi is good, but not perfect). However, the new looks crisp and deep while the original one looks muddy and faded by comparison. The spaceman on the right on the original is a little more orange (new is more yellow), but that also might be part of the muddying from fade.
comparison.jpg
Another nice thing about being new, it's nice and flat. The original has a curl from years of heat, and you're fighting with keeping the edges flat and taught against the glass.

Turned out real nice!

1 week later
#732 8 years ago
Quoted from joey__p__1966:

Been quiet in here lately, I'll update you on my SS rebuild.
Waiting on parts ... story of my life lately, LED's and under playfield parts finally came in and have all lamps in now. Used 4LED Ultra Greens from CT, and flashers from Comet. My new set of plastics are here and swapped over the hardware with stainless Rivets. Look at how yellow the old ones got over the years in my basement. ( on the right) .
Rebuilt everything underneath, for the most part, and was ready to install pf in cabinet and finish populating and WHAM!!,,, found a hack from the previous owner that I just cant overlook . Someone didn't have time to get a freaking pin for the VUK armature/ball rest assembly, so they drove a screw into the thing to save time. Couldn't handle the thought of that crappy repair, and I cant fix later with the pf in the game, so I'm waiting again. Luckily Marco is not far and usually get stuff in 3 days.
One VUK repair , and I'll drop it in the cabinet and put the rest of the top side stuff on. Hopefully have it powered up by Saturday evening.
JP

IMG_2403.jpgIMG_2375.jpg IMG_2349.jpgIMG_2399.jpg

Nice work! That reminds me, I need to clean under my apron, I saw it was really dirty under there a few days ago

I got an nos TL for mine, it really pops now, my old one was cut about 1/2" short at the top, why would someone do that???

#736 8 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Well, I hope he doesn't mind me dropping his Pinside name here.....but the best bet to get a new mini playfield for Space Station is this guy...
Pin-Pimp
He can do it and I know he would like to do it, but probably like most of us...just always a lot on the table.

Maybe you could shoot him a message to let him know there's a bit of interest

... Then we could all let him know we would like a new one

#755 8 years ago
Quoted from joey__p__1966:

"put some fuses inline with the return on the coils"
funny, I thought about that. Wasn't sure where or how much. Seems there is a daisy chain of red wire from coil to coil, and a single white wire . Which wire would I tap into ( white ?)and what amp fuse? Slow Blo? Fast acting ? Might just do the pops, they are easy to get to and seems to have been a problem in the past. I don't like fire
JP

I believe 8a slow blow is correct

#758 8 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Why? 8A is awful high. I'd try 1A and keep going up until I found one that didn't blow in normal operation.
Then I'd intentionally lock on a coil, just to make sure that fuse blew.

Sorry, I was thinking about the rectifiers

1 week later
#765 8 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

Hoping to. Freeplay ramp, shaker, new plastics, led add ons, a topper set up and a few other things. Probably my last big re-do so looking to make it a good one.

What shaker did you buy?

Have any instructions or how to install it?

#769 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I thought the shaker had to be in the code for it to fire.

You can attach it to a flasher, so it goes off with a flasher, but getting everything else connected is what I'd like to see

2 weeks later
#793 8 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

Purchased from member Azurden.

I believe I bought the original he had them made from, he tells me there was very little difference

#795 8 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

just as I am getting ready to really dig into this game shop it etc... etc... & I find this ....WTF? cant believe I didn't notice this earlier ///advice ??

20160111_203711[1]_(resized).jpg

Yikes, ask for a bunch of pictures, buy connectors, test each line individually???

1 week later
#821 8 years ago

very nice, love this game

1 week later
#826 8 years ago

Hey guys, I've gotten a strange thing happening with my Space Station diverter,

1. Sometimes when I shoot the ramp, and the ball locks to the right, the space station spins around a full turn, diverting the next ball to the right also, and kicking out the first locked ball back into play.

Also, if I lock a ball of the right, sometimes, I'll lock a ball on the left and before the ball will up kick to the diverter, the space station will spin and divert the ball so it diverts to the right and kicks out the first locked ball back into play.

So frustrating! I cleaned the optos on the diverter board today, and the same thing is still happening.

2. I cleaned under my apron today also, and cleaned the ball trough as well. Now about every three ball kick outs, the ball will fly out on top of the apron plunger gauge... How can I keep this from happening???

#829 8 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Aldo check for other cold solder joints while you have that board out of there. These guys are about 30 years old!

Good call, I'll check on that

#834 8 years ago

does anyone know which optos are in the rotating Spacestation board?

#836 8 years ago

Boom! Thank you

1 week later
#839 8 years ago

I replaced the optos in the opto board for the ss toy, I reflowed the connector pins. very clean work.

My space station is spinning incorrectly, sometimes clock wise, sometimes counter-clockwise, in game and in test.

what do you guys suggest I try now? I thought I saw a fix for that somewhere, but it's not in this thread

EDIT:

Found the possible problem... I'll report back in this case

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-station-turns-wrong-way

#841 8 years ago
Quoted from Slate:

Used to have a station and had to sell it due to unforeseen circumstances. Even went off the road and painted it green.
Miss it, loved the attract music and sound "condition green" the most classic of attract sounds and unique!

5_(resized).jpg

NO WAY, I can't believe you sold the GREEN SS!!!! The Launch button was EPIC, I feel for you bro

#849 8 years ago

I havnt had a chance to pull the motor, but I know it's the problem. $69 from Marco is crazy. Can I get the other motor with the shorter shaft and swap parts?

#851 8 years ago
1 week later
#871 8 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

got mine playing again last night & feeling a bit proud of how it came out I am still a newbie so this was the biggest project I have so far undertaken fixed all the cut up & butchered GI connections & installed new power supply board, removed the bubbling mylar & reseated flush all of the raised inserts (every single triangle one in this playfield was raised) Full shop job rubbers etc...., replaced all 3 broken pop bumper assys. & did some paint touch ups near the pop bumpers , replaced every single bulb (with the exception of the 3 higher voltage ones) with LED's , applied over a dozen coats of wax , rebuilt flippers & did Vid1900's flipper upgrade , installed NOS plastic set , replaced space station motor to fix stripped gears & misalignment issues & replaced several switches as needed & adjusted some as needed ....... when I first started I gave myself 1 month to finish not knowing what all it would entail & I finished up 10 days ahead of schedule I love this game now more than ever! she is now looking & playing like a sweetheart!
20160219_065157[1]_(resized).jpg

Congratulations !!! Job well done!

#889 8 years ago

I used all coin taker in mine, but I pieced together my own kit. Mine has been great

#896 8 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

Tear down went well, found a broken area on my upper pf though , have decided to slightly modify with stock parts to make it work. Until these are reproduced somewhere, or I find a dealer of unobtanium.......Pinball life order should be here in a week, see how this goes.

I've been thinking on this for some time now, hoping mine does not suffer any breakage... but if it did, I would put the pieces together and melt them back together from underneath, so the repair is not seen from the top side, then underneath, I would either clearcoat, or epoxy in a way that I would try no to be seen, and maybe reinforce the entire part.

I think of clear coating the underside of ramps sometimes that are troublesome to keep from cracking, especially on titles like Radical, that have a toilet bowl area that is prone to cracking alot.

#897 8 years ago

On a sidenote, I clearcoated the underside of my NOS playfield, I hope to try and remove the mylar soon

image_(resized).jpgimage_(resized).jpg

#901 8 years ago

Dupe

#902 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That looks good, how did you avoid getting clear in the inserts.
I have a NOS pf also so I'm interested to see how your mylar removal goes.

All of the inserts but 2 are perfect. I took blue tape and filled those 2 inserts. It's only one quick layer of clear, so any that got in the inserts was fairly minimal.

I was clearing a meteor and setup ss to use the leftover clear

#903 8 years ago

3.5 hours with freeze spray and 91% isopropyl alcohol with flour. Ready for clear

image_(resized).jpgimage_(resized).jpg

#914 8 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

will be using colored flashers on pf with clear domes.

Are you planning on wearing sunglasses while playing?

Those might burn your eyes. I've always been told to diffuse the raw led flash as much as possible. So, I use red flashers in red domes , yellow in yellow, etc... And for heaven sakes never use white or anything else in clear, unless it's pointed away from your eyes

You're work is looking really great though!

#918 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Do you use the tower flashers? I use the flat ones which shine all the light upwards. I think those light the domes more evenly. I wonder how bright a COB would light them up. To bad they only come in white..

I do use the towers, I could try the flat ones to see how that looks

2 weeks later
#980 8 years ago
Quoted from tslayer71:

So I keep taking out GI fuse when I'm trying to add a comet 6.3v 3 led strip. Is this because I'm overloading GI circuit, or because I'm shorting something out? I'm just attaching the led strip in parallel with GI bulb under left slingshot.....
Thanks,
Tslayer

Could be a short in the LED strip

Most likely not overloading

1 week later
#1027 8 years ago

I'd be in for a new upper pf...

On a second note... Those of us with broken or cracking pf. Maybe I could suggest to pull it out and remove everything and rough up the underside with sand paper and clear coat the underside with a good plastic paint or spray on epoxy or something to help it become strong. Of course use something that won't yellow or crack

1 week later
#1058 8 years ago

I'll never leave!!! Space station til the end!!!

#1068 8 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

How did I read this whole thread (I thought?) and miss the Chosen ones? I like that info card!
Here you go Paul, let me know if these are better for you. I was trying to use green for "Condition Green" but even though I see it fine, you're right, it might be a little tough.
SSCard_Red_(resized).jpg
SSCard_Green_(resized).jpg

Don't let mine deter you, you're doing great! We need variety and definitely some better than mine

#1070 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

What's wrong with yours, there really nice.

Nothing's wrong with them, but I continue to strive for greatness, if someone does something better than I can, then I'll pull mine and use theirs and support them.

#1076 8 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Update on the missing segment "g" in the alphanumeric display.
I realized now it's not just on "adjustment failure" where you see all the correct segments. It's also in some, not all of the attract mode. So odd it's only missing in game and test screens.
Segment "g" is IJ22-25. I relfowed the connector, checked the ribbon cable, changed SCR2 (4.7k resistor pack), SCR2 (4.7k resistor pack) and U41 6821PIA. No change.
What's next???

Did you rebuild the power supply? I do that every time there seems to be a power issue to rule out missing voltages

Greatplainselectronics.com should have stuff... You probably already know what to do though

#1078 8 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

I haven't rebuilt the power yet but it will be done this week. Hard to imagine only segment "g" in the display being related to the power supply when the rest works fine.
I did discover another issue:
The 3 orange flashers at the top of the playfield are out. Bulbs are good, wiring is good, I changed Q14 to a new TIP122. They still won't light. It's solenoind 15 in test mode "Playfield top flashers" IPJ2-8 (brrown-viloet)

The flashers are 1251 bulbs I believe, they're not regular 89 - that was my problem with those... You might need to change out the pre driver transistor also(2n4401 from memory)

1 week later
#1099 7 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

If someone could take a pic of their ribbon cable in the head that would be great. The one from mpu to display. Thanks!

I can't get a pic, but the red wire goes to pin 1, look for the number one right next to the pins on both boards... Maybe this helps?

1 month later
#1117 7 years ago

Need a little help please...

At least 8 out of 10 times I shoot the left orbit to the rear VUK the ball stalls out so it can't fall into the VUK hole.

I have the correct rubber ring and posts in the correct places.

Anyone have a fix? Or is this typical behavior?

1 month later
#1161 7 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

New owner! There has been a Space Station in my work break room for many years and no one knew who it belonged to. I decided to plug it in one day, and after playing a few credits found it had a lot of things wrong with it. Over the past year I have been fixing and repairing various issues it had, paying for the parts out of my own pocket. It seems like almost everything in it was original, so a ton of bulbs and such needed to be replaced, and I got the station optos cleaned so it would rotate properly, etc...
My art director tracked down the original owner of the machine and told him I had been putting a lot of work into it, and the original owner said I can have it! So yay! first pin!!
As I said before, the pin needs a lot of work. I'm going to list all the problems it has here mostly as a record to myself, but also there are a few weird things the machine does that I'm not sure if its just a 'Normal' Function or not. So if you see something on this list that is a feature and not a bug let me know.
Problems to fix:
- Battery holder needs to be replaced. Board needs to be cleaned where the old batteries leaked on it.
- The left side of the General Illumination does not work. Not sure why yet.
- None of the green lights seem to be recieving power
- (green mode) does not activate. The white GI lights (on the right) remain on during multiball
- Numerical Display has sections that remain dark, though they usually start working once the machine has been on for a few hours? weird.
- The Ball Ramp is severely cracked and needs to be repaired/replaced
- Carousel feature does not always register the right spot. sometimes stops in weird positions (might need to be cleaned again)
- Carousel sometimes starts spinning constantly and wont stop until another ball goes into the saucer, or a new ball loads into the shooter lane (FEATURE?!)
- the game will randomly load 2 balls into the shooter lane. This does not seem to have any rhyme or reason to it. I'd say there is a 1/50 chance of it happening. (2nd only happens when a ball would normally be loaded, never during play)
- The Right ball lock will sometimes randomly release the locked ball for no reason.
- The saucer above and to the right of "USA" will usually not recognize that a ball is present, and I have to wait for the 'find ball' cycle for it to pop the ball up into the lock.
- Cabinet Damage: The rear of the cabinet is starting to come apart. Needs structural integrity. Scratches and chips on the wood need to be repaired.
- Backbox Damage: Far worse shape than the cabinet Needs some major wood work repair.
- Mylar needs to be lifted and replaced. Some sections (near the random button by the ramp) has already came up and let dirt and grit underneath the surface.
- AUX drop targets sometimes don't register? Sometimes I hit them all down and I do not advance the multiplier and they just remain down. Do I need to hit something after knocking down all the drop targets?
- The call out "Bay doors are open" is repeated almost continuously sometimes when you hit the drop-down in front of the ramp. It gets SUPER annoying to the point that no one wants the volume above a whisper. Is she supposed to say that over and over? Because sometimes she doesn't, which makes me think its a bug.
- 'Tecno static' is the best way I can describe it.... There is a noise that is made when 2 balls are locked that is a technological chaos noise that is extremely annoying and loud and will continuously play until you start multi ball, or loose a ball. It contributes to the 'no volume rule' at work.
- 'Flipper buttons need to be replaced. both of them have cracked plastic.
- All the raised plastic pieces need to be replaced. I am thinking of doing a custom job of this rather than buying aftermarket replacements... Concept images soon on what I have in mind.
- I need a lot of new hardware and need to replace a bunch of hardware currently in the machine. It is clear 'someone' was trying to repair this thing and was too lazy to go buy even the simplest replacement parts. The right slingshot rubber was being held in place by a WOOD SCREW that was forced into the metal threaded bracket under the playfield..... That's an idea of the sort of nonsense I've had to deal with...
- Pop bumpers all work ok, but seem weak. I'll probably take them apart and maybe replace the solinoids.
- A few rubbers still need to be replaced. I have replaced all the easy ones but once I get the playfield taken apart I'll get all new rubber on there.
- Lots of LED's. Again, I think 50% of the game has already been converted to LED. I just need to get to the rest of it.
WHEW! that's a lot of work ahead of me. If you guys have any advice on how to go about some of this stuff (especially the electrical problems) I'd appreciate the info. I'm attaching some images here of the machine. Mostly of the Cabinet Damage. If anyone has experience repairing this type of damage let me know. I'm mostly new to all of this:

Welcome to the space station!!!

Sounds like you have quite the job ahead of you.

First, ask for pictures from us of any connectors that plug into the boards that doesn't look proper... Same for the connectors to the relays under the playfield

Replace and re-pin any brown connectors. Especially for the power boards and the relays under the playfield (those relays control the condition green lamps and the turning off of the GI)

Pop bumpers... Re flowing the solder on the connector pins on the back of the power supply may possibly help with weakness. If the coils work at all most likely they don't need replacing, they just need good clean power.

Rebuild the power supply, Google this or pm me, I'll point you in the right direction

The raised plastics? I'm guessing you are talking about the art plastics on the posts that cover up the lamps / mechanics. Don't do a custom job, buy the set , they are nice, it will save you a hundred hours of work. , or ask people here to sell you their used nice ones.

The "space station" carousel is called the "space station" there are the possibilities that the optic sensors need to be replaced that are under it, or the teeth in the motor are eaten and the motor needs to be replaced.

The ramp can be fixed, or you can buy a new one from freeplay40 here on pinside.

The drop targets switch may need adjustment, or there may be a cold solder joint... Same for the single drop target next to the ramp.

Removing the Mylar may possibly mess up the art that is on the inserts, it will be hard to stomach, but it may be a better idea to leave it in place. (Not every game can be made perfect in this regard easily, not without hundreds of dollars and conplete removal of the playfield and a specialist to restore and clear coat the playfield)

The displays probably have cold solder joints on the pins???

Read the restoration and bullet proofing threads by vid1900 here on pinside, they are a wealth of knowledge.

Oh yes.... And read this entire thread, it will answer several of your questions and help you along

#1164 7 years ago

Removing The Mylar will remove the insert art

#1167 7 years ago
Quoted from boris_37:

Does anyone know how many lights of each type are in space station? I am looking to put together a kit and I would like to know. However cointaker has yet to respond to me as I know they usually provide light totals in the kit.
I guess I should mention, I am going on monday to buy some lights from a local guy, so I need it soon, which is why im slightly not waiting for cointaker.

They don't release lists typically because they don't want to help promote buyers to take those lists to other vendors....

I typically count the bulbs in the game myself and add 10% to have extras

Here's my list I made for mine, it may not be complete, and may not be to taste, and I most likely changed my order a few times, I do believe it includes the backbox

30 retro warm 44
13 flasher 89
25 retro green 44
6 super 555
6 retro yellow 44
6 retro blue 44

#1176 7 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Just got in yesterday thanks to a local estate sale. Not sure it's a long term keeper but plan to have some fun for awhile.

Looks to be in good condition, congrats

2 weeks later
#1220 7 years ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I think they are supposed to be the weird 28V, #1251 bulbs. That is what I ordered and used for mine, though I can't remember where I found that info. Can't find a ref in the manual but I know I've seen stickers somewhere in the cabinet.

Yo, I want to say cointaker carries the LED version now, search around for the LED 1251, they're out there now

#1222 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Oh that's right 28v not 13. Thanks.

Look for the LED homie

#1224 7 years ago

2500? More? Less?

2 weeks later
#1246 7 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Oh yeah you think so? Hmmm just doesn't look right.. Wouldn't a relay control the locking of a ball is a hole too?

Not the relays under the play field, they control Lighting

2 weeks later
#1251 7 years ago
Quoted from ronsplooter:

New video is up on my Youtube channel
» YouTube video

Thank you for video documenting your process, looks like a ton of fun!!

1 month later
#1299 7 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

I cannot find information about certain Space Station production details.
Two elements show that some changes have been applied to the machine during production: the lamps scheme in the backbox and the display.
From this article - http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/spacestation/pics/pics.html - I learned that three different translites have been produced: without holes, with holes for the wheel, with 6 white "spots" instead of the holes. Connected with these changes, also the lights scheme in the backbox changed in two versions: two different lamps scheme, controlled in a different way. Basically the beautiful rotating light show of the wheel is not available in all machines.
My guess is that early production machines did not have the effect, and it has been added later. The translite has been adjusted (with holes or white spots) accordingly, for the wheel rotating light show to be visible. But how many machines have been produced for each version?
Also I noticed that two different displays are available for the Space Station: standard or early production.
So do somebody know the details behind this history production?

I don't believe my "station lamps" rotate, they are just on most of the time

1 week later
#1315 7 years ago
Quoted from King_Jelly:

Just picked up a Space Station and really dig the dual GI. I'm going to order a set of frosted LEDs in Green and another experimental set in a different color. How many bulbs and what socket type(s) are used in Condition Green?
Thanks!

They're 44/47 , I think there's 30 of them???

1 week later
#1325 7 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

There is a opto board beneath the station it helps register with where the station is at. Marco has a replacement board or if your soldering skills are good you good replace the optos. If you tear it down though you might as well check the motor too.

the motor is supposed to turn counter clockwise, if the gears are bad, there is the possibility of the station spinning the wrong way, which will let the diverter stop in the incorrect place, the gear teeth in the motor commonly go bad, especially after years of play, this has been the issue with many of our space stations here.

#1328 7 years ago
Quoted from Platypus:

I am questioning whether some of my lights are working correctly. It is the three 28v #1251 bulbs in the upper right playfield. Mine stay on most of the time and only flash off at certain times. Is that normal?
Also I changed the domes to blue and green, which look great but those 1251's wash the blue out completely. Does anyone have ideas on "coloring" the bulbs to make them blue?

the lights sound like they are working properly. there are some LEd 1251's out there, maybe some in blue? I dont know how to color bulbs :\

1 month later
#1379 7 years ago
#1382 7 years ago
Quoted from sagejr:

Looking for parts to spruce up my complete but shabby looking Space Station. Looking for a nice apron, mini playfield, translite, lower right shooter lane playfield plastic and space station toy. Pretty much all of the non obtainable parts I guess...

On the mini pf, all you can do as of now is hope for one to come up for sale somewhere, otherwise fix yours, and scuff up yours on the bottom and clear coat it with something stout

1 week later
#1385 7 years ago
Quoted from BlitzM4:

Working on a 3d printed replacement for my warped lexan space station toy. Need to order some white plastic and add more details but its coming along nicely.
Seth

Looking good

There's a fellow that's already made a slew of these 3D printed, they're very nice in case you wanted to try and hunt him down

#1404 7 years ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Hi all,
Joining the club! I'm new to this, and Space Shuttle is now my first pin. It's a fixer, but got it for $500. (Hopefully it's a deal). Almost playable, left flipper is super weak, but read a lot about getting a rebuild or upgrade kit or something.
I will be hitting you all up a lot, I know nothing about coils, EOS or anything else yet, but I'm a tinkerer. So far I can't figure out why the lights under the left scoring bumper (by the left flipper) don't turn on, both whites and greens, and greens up the rest of the left side don't turn on either. Everything is fine on the right side.
Nice to meet you all, and excited to find such a large community with the same machine!
Seth

Yo, I'm guessing you mean Space Station?

Welcome to the club!

$500 is a great deal now days,

I'm curious to know who has paid the least for their space station here, not that it should be a pissing contest, just curious... I paid $210 for mine about 3ish years ago, but I bet I have about another $2k in it.

2 weeks later
#1450 7 years ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Day 2 of a fully operational machine. What a couple of days. Last night after playing my first few rounds with my boy on this machine (cleaned it up, new ramp, new flippers, etc.) I was finishing with some final table fixes when I turn it on and have the Adjust Switch notice pop up for the first time on switches 46, 50 and 52. So I think, "let me clean up and I'll get to it in the morning. I pick up the glass to move it to a safer location in case my kids go to that room, and as I'm carrying it ... it exploded... in my hands ... right before my eyes.
Thank goodness for shop vacs, but also, WTF? Did that just happen? So cleaning is how I spent my morning instead.
I come back tonight to give the Switch Adjust errors a go, when I realize ... no more error? So I play a round. What a round it was, my first high score at around 5 million! Time to enter my initials for the first time in my first ever pin ... and I can't figure out how ...
To top it all off ... the Adjust Switch error when you flip it on is back.
Sooo, roller coaster happening, but question: how are high score initials supposed to be entered? (I'll research the switch problem later lol)

Dang! What an emotional rollercoaster !

Initials are changed with flipper buttons, pressing the start button enters them in one at a time

2 weeks later
#1468 7 years ago
Quoted from bpull:

Well that's a different look.

thats a good idea, now we just need to dress it up a little, great work!!!

#1490 7 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Yes I have it and it's in...one piece. It's covered in a Bed liner sort of material that ought work for now but I'd like to replace it if possible.

that is both cool and crazy, at least it's not busted and somewhat usable

#1498 7 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

I actually think the drop targets were acting like that too. I was way more pissed at the screwy acting space station diverter though. The pin hasn't missed a beat since the re-pinning. Again, different pins can have different problems, but this sure sounds like mine. Also, mine was a low use, excellent condition pin with perfect looking boards and not even burnt GI plugs. You wouldn't have known it was bad by looking at it.

I re pinned and reflowed my sof power supply and it worked wonders for the drop targets... in sure the same goes for space station

#1515 7 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Got the pop bumpers working like they should!! After figuring out the mess of stuff they had going on, I was able to get everything straightened out and working!!
Now I just have to figure out why my white/violet gi iasnt working which shouldn't be a big deal and I'm ready to either tear down for clear coat on the pf or just Mylar and play it.

I'm always a fan of clear coat, but it sure takes a lot of effort

#1519 7 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

Ok guys, I re-wired the 15-pin connector on the main power board and My lane diverter is still just making random degrees of turning. (on a side note, I think it made my flippers more powerful?)
Also still not getting the drop targets to function reliably. Possibly also an opto problem. This game was filthy when i got it, and Ive tried to clean the optos as best I can multiple times,
So, the power board is freshly connected. The opto board is getting power, the motor is getting power. the Gears are new. My only thought left is that the opto sensors are faulty and need to be replaced. So, anyone know the correct model sensor to replace them with?
I was going to try two of these:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5490-13451-00
If that sensor doesn't work, I'm either going to eliminate the lane diverter from the game, by directly leading the left orbit into the left lock, and the ramp into the right lock, or I will need to fashion my own lane diverter with an arduino and a stepper motor.

I agree with dozer1, but want to add in

System11's just do weird things when their power supplies have old components. The first thing I do when I have weird system11 problems is rebuild the power supply or replace it with a new one.

Those capacitors are 25+ years old, and only have a rating of about 15 years... replace them, the hv circuit, and reflow all of the pins.

This fixes 95% of weird issues that I have experienced.

On my diverter I replaced the Optos and the motor and then all was right with the world.

Fingers crossed that you get this fixed, reinventing the wheel on this with an arduino and stepper motor should not have to be a consideration

#1522 7 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

Thanks guys. I have new optos in the mail. I tried blocking the current optos with a piece of cardboard and it didnt seem to matter if they were blocked or not. Motor behaved pretty much the same either way when triggered.
I'll try soldering these new optos on, and after that, I may bite the bullet and get the new $140 power supply board from Marcos. If that can fix it, it would be a lot less effort than building an arduino Frankenstein diverter. And if it doesnt fix it, then i have a perfectly good used power board I can throw up on the market and get a little of that money back.
I'll keep you posted.

Space Station is a system11 A, you can find a few other solutions, to the power board, marco is the most expensive
ebay.com link: Brand New WDP3211A Power Supply Board for Williams 3 11 amp Data East pinball

3 weeks later
#1593 7 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

The manual really is terrible....
I suppose.... given we all have the machine... we could make a new unofficial PDF manual with proper documentation..... If we all took a few pages each, or just specific feature or board. Future generations would praise our names.

I'll help, just don't know what else to add... rubber ring chart? Fuse list?

#1610 7 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Since I had to paint over the "G" marks where the green bulbs went, I decided instead of rewriting the g I would change it up a little. Thoughts on this?
Keep in mind this is waaaay more work than I wanted to put into this game. It's not going to perfect by any means but it should be a good player. I might even get into some cabinet work.

Curious... the lamp sockets? Are you replacing them or are you putting bulbs in them before you spray?... looks like the sockets have paint in them, this will be pretty difficult to clean out, it can be done with a dremel and stone attachment if you absolutely have to

#1616 7 years ago

Found some goodies today while looking through old parts...

IMG_4362 (resized).JPGIMG_4362 (resized).JPG

IMG_4363 (resized).JPGIMG_4363 (resized).JPG

IMG_4364 (resized).JPGIMG_4364 (resized).JPG

IMG_4365 (resized).JPGIMG_4365 (resized).JPG

IMG_4366 (resized).JPGIMG_4366 (resized).JPG

IMG_4367 (resized).JPGIMG_4367 (resized).JPG

#1622 7 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

Since I don't have the space station toy that's supposed to be on top of the lane diverter, and because I don't really like how it looks anyway, I'm going to try and get around to building something custom like this. Made a quick block out for the screws and footprint, and a rough sketch of what I have in mind.
Probably hook up its LEDs to the circuits under the table, or I may try and get fancy and get an arduino nano under there to do fun animations when stuff happens on the table. like have the 3 support beams flash in order right to left when the ball is going to be fired up that tube, and flash some green lights during multiball or something.
I'd also vacu-form some domes that match my ramp and upper playfield.
In any event. I hope to get around to this at some point:

That is a sweet idea! Keep the progress coming !

2 months later
#1643 6 years ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Watched a little Big Daddy, look what I saw in the background of the apartment:

They chose a great game to display!

3 weeks later
#1658 6 years ago
Quoted from EdisonArcade:

Seems to me like it went rather cheap, especially for someone with a missing or broken one.
ebay.com link » Williams Space Station Pinball Prototype Mini Upper Playfield

Wow, that was a good price... my eBay alerts never brought it up

2 weeks later
#1662 6 years ago
Quoted from Caviar:

Is there a LED bulb type color chart available for SS been looking but can't find one. Thank in advance

There is not, unless someone has created it by hand... best way is to make one your self, grab a flashlight and light up the inserts from behind; it will help. Sorry I'm not much more help, I had a list years ago, but after I finished my restore I didn't really look back :-/

#1666 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yeah that's lookin real good.

Yup!

2 weeks later
#1670 6 years ago
Quoted from Oobgarm:

I'm most of the way through getting this machine cleaned up and back to as close to factory spec as I can. But of course I've run into a couple things that I need to turn to the community here for some assistance. Of course, as a beginner's mistake, I didn't take a lot of pictures when I was dismantling everything. However, during the process I noticed that whoever serviced this machine in its past life took some shortcuts, mainly in the fastener department. That's where I turn to you all for some help.
I've had a few instances of screws that don't match anything else on the machine and some spacers that have had screws shoved into them, destroying the click tabs. This is the main one that's giving me trouble.

I cannot for the life of me figure out how it goes together. I get that one of the spacers has bent tabs, but I'm confused at how it all stays together. There's gotta be a screw or something to keep it together, right? I'm assuming that however this is done will correspond with the installation of the raised piece back by the upper PF.
Other question is about placement of correct rubber. The diagram that came with the kit I got is basically unreadable, and without thinking things through I pulled the old off entirely instead of replacing one at a time. Main areas of concern are on the left (in between the ball drop and the left orbit railing) and behind the drop targets. I know this is minor stuff but I really want to be sure I'm playing something as close to factory as I can be.
Thanks in advance for any and all advice! I can't wait to get this back up and going again.

The smaller piece with the dome goes on top of the big plastic and is connected with the black posts I believe

#1676 6 years ago
Quoted from pinzrfun:

Picking us a Space Station tonight! Thwre are so many different green less, what kind did you guys use for green mode? I may keep the rest of the game incandescent, just fyi - full leds hurt the wife's eyes...

Also, warm white single smd with a clear dome are the closest I have found to an incandescent, imo. They are easy on the eyes and mostly preserve the original look.

Others may have a different discovery

2 weeks later
#1695 6 years ago
Quoted from AMBoggs:

As I was taking the pictures in noticed a red wire connecting my gi to the green. Second picture down. Is that supposed to be there?

guys.. 1st pic, why are there (white) wires manually connected to the relay?

2 weeks later
#1728 6 years ago

TNT put up a good video...

1 week later
#1783 6 years ago

Flame polishing is not good for some plastics, it will warp them immediately, so be careful if you decide to do it, look up as much info as you can.

1 week later
#1814 6 years ago
Quoted from Ive:

Well .... I dug these out
I got them about 12 years ago when I first picked up my Station. Kind of forgot I had them until it was mentioned on here.
I'm not sure they are NOS ?? They don't have the part number printed on. But they look good. So if not NOS then someone was making them a while back.

Yes,, please scan those for us!

3 weeks later
#1838 6 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Thoughts on custom side cabinet art? Yes or no?

The original is so classic, if you change it, don’t change it... except ... you have sky blue armor, maybe use that color in the stencil work somehow

#1849 6 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

AJ game turned out amazing!!!!
you should post a video of it in action!
small update on my future plans for Space Station:
I spent the weekend working on my OTHER side project which is a scratch built animatronic fortune teller machine. I'm using an arduino to run everything and spent some time getting to understand addressable LEDs better. I had the thought that I could in theory replace the LEDs from under the inserts in a pinball, and replace them with a grouping of addressable LEDs that could not only change color, but also animate within the insert. The old (+) line that was powering the old LED could be used as an input on the arduino to let it know that the machine wants the light to come on.
I was thinking a row of 4-5 of these LEDs could be put underneith the 'lock' insert arrows on space station. So when the arrow is flashing, its actually running a 'ramping up' animation code of light within the insert, and when the insert is solid lit, all of them come on and remain solid. If you wanted to get real fancy you could use a clear arrow insert, and let the LEDs be any color you want during normal mode, and only turn green when you are in green mode. Come to think of it you could do some pretty wild effects with the center playfield rewards arrows... anyway, I'm just brainstorming wild ideas on what to do with this machine.
I tested the mod on my scratch built test machine. It's kinda cool. this is only 3 LEDs. I'd use 4-5 next time: https://www.instagram.com/p/Baz-EiVAAnq/?taken-by=scarybeardpro

That is very cool

#1860 6 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

took a quick look at their website, looks interesting. I'll read more but Space Station isn't on their list of games and it looks like they only support System 11C? I also am not clear how it triggers custom sounds, I'll look more into it and tutorials when I get a chance.
as for the art re-theme I spent an hour or two yesterday on pintrest and gathered some inspiration for what I had in mind. This is a very 'serious' take on the theme. keeping color palettes muted and the style realistic. I want to do another pass on an inspiration board where I try going a little more colorful and stylized. Maybe like the artists Francisco Herrera, or Sean Murphy.
but this is the inspiration board I put together yesterday. My new boards are arriving next thursday, I'll probably fire up a new thread in the 'homebrew' forum or something so I don't clog this thread up with a re-theme.

Juicy! At first I was not that excited, but if you have something done along the lines of those images, it will be a hit! Can’t wait to see what you do

2 weeks later
#1877 6 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

edisonarcade Yea, I understand the 'purist' mindset for machines. There's a couple machines on my wishlist that I would never dream of modding or re-theaming. There's something to be said for a super nice restoration to all original condition, to preserve a time and place.
but, I just don't see this as one of those titles. It's a fun game for it's time, but the art is a little cheezy and dated. Anything 'tech' themed usually is. On top of that, the original replacement parts for this machine are nearly impossible to find. I can't find a translight anywhere, I can't find the space station plastic toy anywhere (even the original didn't look great), and a new set of plastics is very hard to find, and when I do they are super expensive. So I'm left with the option of:
- spend several hundred dollars tracking down and buying original (almost impossible to find) art I don't even like that much...
- spend several hundred dollars producing my own replacement translight, plastics, and station toy, and sell a few on the side to people who need them, to hopefully break even on my efforts.
I think I can make some good art for this machine and offer it to people who need it. The station toy, and plastics I would sell myself, but the Translight and any printed format stuff I will offer up for free for others to print on their own if they want it. Ironically I could probably scan and restore the original plastic art for anyone that wanted it, but there's probably legal issues with doing so... Its a bummer that people are held back on having 'finished' machines because certain products just are not available any more. There was a post on this thread earlier about how no one had the '1, 2, 3' paper cutout that goes on the upper playfield.
although I will say if a pinball 'purist' wants to buy this machine away from me before I soil it with modded parts they are welcome to do so! I have a ton of other projects I could be doing.

There are parts to be found

Space station translites are on eBay and klov forums once in a while

There’s a few guys here on pinside making the station toy, look back through the thread or do a site wide search and you will find them.

Plastics come up on eBay also..

Join some Facebook groups to find the things you need, it’s helped me as well.

I know you want to change things, there’s nothing wrong with that , but it will cost you a lot of time and money on trial and error, almost no companys know how to properly print translites, and printing plastics is the same, lots of trial and error. I wish you the best of luck and can’t wait to see what you do, but I feel you are in for more than you think.

#1878 6 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

Replaced the associated diodes on the Aux Driver board, reflowed/tested everything associated with it on the AuxDB/CPU, reset the flaky groundbraid to the coin door, cleaned off all of the oil (?) on the drop target/board, checked entire switch matrix under playfield. Now works perfect.
The only thing not working now are the 3 1251 bulbs behind the backboard. I changed the toasty associated transistor and dmm'd what I thought was the predriver. Changed the bulbs. Anyone know an easy way to get back there to check the wiring?

Pull the playfield forward off it’s hinge. Prop the pf up with a 2x4 or long level, Use a mirror

1 week later
#1887 6 years ago

+1 on the blue ramp... those shoulda been factory, so cool

1 week later
#1904 6 years ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Hey All,
I picked up my Space Station on Thursday. I'm excited to be part of this exclusive club! This is my first major restore (I'm a newbie). I plan on doing a lot of research on pinside and via the manual, but wanted to put this out to the group in case anyone can help point me more quickly to solutions:
1. Cabinet was painted black. I didn't see stencils/decals in stock anywhere. Does anyone have stencils they are willing to sell or borrow me?
Chris K

http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/williams/space-station/space-station-stencil-kit.html

#1906 6 years ago
Quoted from twenty6point2:

They are out of stock (you won't find a buy button on that page). If you go up a page it is more obvious.

I see... bummer, contact them, or Pinball Pimp, maybe there could be some hope

#1923 6 years ago

I’ve seen the original wire gate go for $25 in the past, hard to find

#1926 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Really? And here you can make your own for about a buck.

“Originals”

Lucky for me... there were a few spares in my game when I bought it, Lo and behold; the one in my game was broken when I shopped it out and I didn’t notice I never replaced it. So it was fun locking balls under the ramp for a while... then I discovered the spares in the game and did a little research on the originals.

4 weeks later
#2004 6 years ago
Quoted from bajm:

anyone have the exact color details/info for the cabinet colors? Also, what kind of paint did you use? I am hoping to do a color match in a spray can with stencils. thanks!

I used Krylon rattle cans (they have the absolute best spraying tip) , easy... red, blue, white, satin black. Looks amazing

#2010 6 years ago
Quoted from bajm:

Thanks for the info - did you use specific colors of red/blue/white/black that were matched to the original or did you approximate with what was available off the shelf? I agree with ajfclark, pics would be great!

I got what was off the shelf, there's choices, but, space station is pretty straight forward... Literally... (satin) Black Cabinet, white, blue, then red (or green if youre in that club) I dont remember if blue was first, or white was first, your stencils should come with instructions

pic... here ya go

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-station-club-members-only/page/10#post-2392830

#2012 6 years ago
Quoted from bajm:

Thanks for the details! I saw that picture earlier in the thread, it looks great!

thank you! Ive stenciled several games now, it never gets old, always satisfying to pull the stencil off to reveal the art underneath...

tip: 1st light Spray, let sit 2 minutes, then spray a little thicker, let sit 1 minute, repeat until fully covered, then be sure to not let the final spray sit more than 10 minutes before you pull the stencil, but dont pull it off right away, you want the paint to be slightly gooey so the stencil wont pull off chunks of the paint with it, or youll be touching it up.... if you do have to touch up; get an artists paint brush, take a paper plate and spray the plate with the paint, and use the artists brush to touch up the issue. it will look great!

also, its easier to apply the stencil flat, and easier to paint with the cabinet up right (normal orientation), and easier to pull the stencil with the cabinet upright.

let the colors FULLY dry before applying the next stencil, sometimes takes a full 36 hours depending on the thickness of the spray

ALSO FOR THE RED!!! give it a spray of pink first, then do red over pink, otherwise your red will be dark and too thick. I WISH I had known to do this before I stenciled mine

1 month later
#2114 6 years ago

If someone made an upper pf, I’d be in

#2146 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yeah my vote doesn't count either cuz mines in great shape too so I wouldn't be replacing it.

Quoted from Rondogg:

Not to take a huge step back here but has Rick at PPS confirmed that he does/doesn't have the molds? Maybe if we all got together and guerilla emailed him it would light a fire?

Mines in great shape too, but I’m in on bulk emailing him, someone organize it and I’ll throw my message in the hat

#2173 6 years ago

Could also be the tilt maybe?

Check your tilt bob and wiring , you want to be sure the tilt is not engaged

Also check the slam switches, I think there’s one under the playfield and one on the coindoor

#2177 6 years ago
Quoted from scarybeard:

Progress. I used clear for some of the rails because I could not fit them all on a 12x12” blue. But I kinda like the mix of plastics. I’ll have to see what it looks like on the machine tomorrow.

Great job! I can’t wait to see all of the switches and bulbs installed and working

1 week later
#2219 6 years ago
Quoted from zFabi:

Just got my 3D Printed Station back,
Pictures later today
It's the nicest replacement for my worn out original I could ever think of will still keep the original in stock though

Cool, can’t wait to see it

#2226 6 years ago
Quoted from zFabi:

There you go its not a full copy but I love it

That looks great! Maybe print some screw hole tabs on it?

1 week later
#2248 6 years ago
Quoted from bpull:

Hi Paul,
Let me test them out for a few and figure out a price too. I want to make sure they work good before I offer them.
Brian

I’m in for a set as well when you get them ship shape (see what I did there)

2 weeks later
#2280 6 years ago

I posted some a while back, they were the perfect size, all you hav to do was print them out ... I want to say 6”x3.25”, but that may need to be checked

#2288 6 years ago
Quoted from DennisAZ:

I've had the "creeping point addition mode" happen too. Never could figure it out. I just turn the machine off and start over.

Same here , it happened to me a few times, I think I rebuilt the power supply and didn’t see it again, been too long though I don’t exactly remember

2 weeks later
#2303 5 years ago
Quoted from dpannell:

Hello,
I acquired a space station pinball about 6 months ago. At some point in the past, the head was repainted all black. I need some head decals. Is anyone aware of any scans of the head sides that I might be able to use to print decals? Does anyone have a scanner and would be willing to scan both sides for me? I'm open to any other ideas. I just need the head decals. Thanks in advance.

mine was painted all hunter green! yikes!!! there were no decals original to the game, they were stencils painted on, I bet someone would be willing to take pics of theirs, scans are going to be a little overkill... my game is all wrapped up with about 5 others in its way, or Id snap a few pics.

#2308 5 years ago

the green LED's from Comet look good, my notes LED's show: 30 retro warm 44's for GI, 25 Green 44's, 6 super 555, 6 yellow 44's, 6 blue 44's, I don't remember why I bought those, except I really liked yellow on the upper playfield, they look snazzy

3 weeks later
#2323 5 years ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

Thanks! This is a solid start... Issue 3, no coils firing on pop bumpers and sling shots... Sigh... Driver board?
Best,
~ja

This happened to mine, check fuses and or replace the special Solonoid drivers and pre driver transistors that control those possibly...

2 weeks later
#2331 5 years ago
Quoted from Ive:

OK Space Station commanders , it's your lucky day ..... I provided my decals for scanning and sets are now available to order. Form an orderly line
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/space-station-upper-playfield-decals/

Yes! Very cool

2 months later
#2419 5 years ago

The majority of the time, it’s ground down gears that causes the issue

2 weeks later
#2423 5 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

trough switches not registering when ball drains
edit: any interest in selling me your Time machine?

Clean or replace those trough switches!

2 months later
#2511 5 years ago
Quoted from HarrieD:

Trough lighting is great but when condition green is active the blue pops out and just is annoying. Therefor I engineered a little solution where in the case of condition green the trough lighting will lightup green as well.
In my "lab-environment" it looks like so:[quoted image][quoted image]

That’s great! Have any tutorial on how you accomplished this?

2 weeks later
#2553 5 years ago
Quoted from Kallek:

Hi ho,
Any ideas on why one of my tip36c keeps blowing (and blowing the F4-fuse) It’s the one sling, kickback and some more things... (I’m on the move atm).
What I’ve noticed is that the kickback sometimes stays out after fired. Can this has something to do with it?
Cheers!

Yes, the coil is locking on and blowing fuse and transistor, I’d replace all, and the supporting transistor to the tip36c, and maybe the coil that’s locking on, unless it tests good

#2559 5 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Anyone know where I can find this one? The owner didn't know where it came from...
https://images.pinside.com/c/a8/54/ca854e995f34469e94e748665124bcc25c42ac71.jpg
[quoted image]

Yes, we need more details... I want that one!

1 week later
#2576 5 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I agree its one of the cooler pins of the era! Right next to F-14 and High speed

F14 is nowhere near the game that space station is, coolness included

#2586 5 years ago
Quoted from kklank:

Hey everybody, just got a Space Station and I'm super excited.
Got three things not working though unfortunately.
1. Switches 52 and 53 in switch test are coming up. I think these are the two optos underneath the space station. I took the space station off and I cleaned or dusted the optos but that didn't seem to do anything? What else do you do to optos?
2. The whole left side in multiball has no green likes working. In the lamp test, all the the lights on left side GI doesn't work.
3. The right outlane appears to have a Vuk maybe? The insert says "clear entry when lit" but does nothing. That doesn't seem right.
Any help or advice would much appreciated! I'll show photos when I get everything working!

1, test the optos, use your camera phone to look at the optos to see if you see a purple glow, if not possibly replace optos, they can go bad

2, there is a relay under the playfield that controls the green GI, it’s either bad, or the pins need the solder reflowed

3, could be a few different things, first check the inter connect board, the far right of the board has the GI connectors, fix this burnt area, replace connectors/re-pin wires that go in connectors, re flow pins. (This is usually the issue on system 11 games GI)

3 months later
#2696 5 years ago
Quoted from MalikyeMoon:

planning just to do stock black as they originally came. if someone has a special request we could consider doing a run

Added 9 days ago:

Would be awesome to see a clear blue set to match the upper playfield

2 weeks later
#2754 4 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Hey again, everyone,
Another dumb newbie question:
So I've got the LED display in...everything's plugged in and seemingly fine...I adjusted the game to Free Play, and...when I hit the Start button, nothing happens.
Also, if I re-start the game, it brings up the setting screen again; it doesn't default to a "play mode."
What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance!

Maybe the balls in the trough and not pushing the switches closed correctly

Are there batteries installed? The game will revert to adjustment if no batteries are installed (I recommend energizer lithium)

#2756 4 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

No, no batteries installed—planning to replace the battery holder tonight, so hopefully that'll clear that up, thanks!
And as for the balls in the trough: do I need to put them in in some kind of way? I thought I just dumped them in...sorry, very new to pinball machine ownership!!!

Nothing special dropping balls in, but if the first trough switch is not engaging it is not detecting a ball is present to kick in the next ball

Is the battery holder bad?
If it’s not bad, just put in lithium batteries, they won’t leak like alkaline.

Also... is your coin door closed? ... need to make sure the door is closed so the power to the playfield is engaged

#2758 4 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

The battery holder was gone, and batteries were soldered directly to the leads...so I cut them off. I've got a new holder, so I'm going to put that in later (need to solder it in).
The coin door is closed, but not locked, as I don't have keys. Can that be an issue? How do I make sure power to the playfield is engaged?

There’s an interlock switch the coindoor engages, just need to make sure the door engages it

5 months later
#2836 4 years ago

Yes this, thank you for making these, I don’t need one, by I know there is a need, I may buy a spare.

Quoted from MalikyeMoon:

Taking orders shortly on replacement divertor and gear sets. these are hand molded in a silicon mold by a professional of the same resin as the pinbot ramps we make.
Shipping a couple now. Rest available shortly. PM me if you need.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

1 month later
#2864 4 years ago
Quoted from kechlesurf:

These little guys are awesome! I searched for lego space guys and have found similar guys but where did you get the arm that hold the figurines? I think that is what makes it stick out more.

Thank you, I have a large collection of LEGO parts to pull from and I found those pieces that looked like space mechanical arms. The coolest part about those little guys, is that the MMU was made and designed by a lego master designer

#2866 4 years ago
Quoted from kechlesurf:

Awesome. I did some research and it looks like the mechanical arms came from the Marvel Super Heroes Doc. Once I get my right flipper fixed, going to look into adding this mod to my Space Station to give it a little personality

Bricklink is a great place to start for individual parts

1 month later
#2905 4 years ago
Quoted from BlitzM4:

Anyone know what this piece of foam/weatherstrip is called or a place to order it from? Half of mine is missing.[quoted image]

My game doesn’t have that

#2907 4 years ago
Quoted from BlitzM4:

Does yours just have a gap there? I can see the wiring in the cabinet through the gap.

Hmmm, I’ll look later and report

#2908 4 years ago

Translite for sale, not mine

ebay.com link: 0

#2912 4 years ago
Quoted from BlitzM4:

Anyone know what this piece of foam/weatherstrip is called or a place to order it from? Half of mine is missing.[quoted image]

5CE150FE-19AA-42F0-9A9A-3E52DA7F400D (resized).jpeg5CE150FE-19AA-42F0-9A9A-3E52DA7F400D (resized).jpeg5FAF1B0D-6FB6-4D71-90C3-3B92844233A6 (resized).jpeg5FAF1B0D-6FB6-4D71-90C3-3B92844233A6 (resized).jpeg
#2914 4 years ago

That’s odd, I don’t see the point in it, I have several system 11’s and none of them have foam anywhere like that

5 months later
#3053 3 years ago
Quoted from Oldschool77:

Has anyone purchased the 3D printed Space Station From Marco? And are you happy with it??[quoted image]

Yes, I’m happy with it

1 month later
#3070 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Well by guys, sold my game. Play on.

Dang man, stop by once in a while

1 week later
#3077 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidC:

i want to share pics of my game...
one of a kind.... with factory topper and blue side art and apron...and back drop target!
enjoy
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Any more info on what the topper was supposed to be?

#3082 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidC:

well pf was not sanded but the paint peeled...
no info about topper anywhere... but seems a dome as F14 and HS fits right there... maybe a green one...
i want to try to make back drop target works... coil is plugged, switch for target position too but not working at the moment...
investigation in progress...

Is that not a prototype playfield?

2 weeks later
#3112 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballPimp:

I just finished SPACE STATION stencils and added them to my website. I know people have been wanting these for a while. Got really good cabinet scans last week. Enjoy!
http://pinballpimpstencils.com/space-station/
[quoted image]

Way to go man!!!

I don’t need them,but I had gotten one of the last in existence a while back and felt terrible every time I saw some one needing them, only to purchase lousy decals from somewhere... not anymore, great job Pinball-Pimp!

2 weeks later
#3132 3 years ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

dont pin me down for a release date but i did get the original blueprints for the upper play field from PPS. we have already got the part into CAD 3D using the prints and the upper PF from my game. pretty sure Rick has the films for the decals. the plan is to build a new injection mold for it

Great news!

I don’t need one, but I may need a backup.
Please match the clear blue, it looks so great with the yellow LEDs and Freeplay40’s blue ramp!

#3133 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I have seen this problem many times before.

A zener diode is a special diode that can flow current in both directions whereas a standard diode can only flow current in one direction. Each zener diode is designed to flow current when a reverse breakdown voltage is reached, in our case (1n5232b) that would be 6.2 volts. Most of the time zeners are use as part of a voltage regulator circuit, but in our situation it's being used as a spike suppressor. In the pic below you will see the switch input line going to U-45 NOR chip pin 2. The chips on the CPU board are TTL chips and work at a voltage of zero to 5 volts. 0-0.8 volts is a low and 2-5 volts is a high. The resistor SR-20 is tied to 5 volts and the switch line, which will bring the switch line to 5 volts. The switch is tied to the switch line and to ground. So if the switch is open the switch line remains at 5 volts, once the switch closes the ground (zero volts) is brought to pin 2 of U-45. If pin 3 is low also (blanking signal) then the output of U-45 will go high and turn on Q-72. Now if for some reason a high voltage such as 25 volt coil voltage were to touch the switch wire, this high voltage would try to raise the voltage on the switch wire but the zener would send anything over the 6.2 volts thru it to ground. By doing this it would protect the rest of the circuit components from over voltage.

Most of the time when a zener diode goes bad it is shorted. If it shorts, it will put a ground (low) signal on the switch line thus making the coil lock on. By snipping one of its leads you will effectively be removing it from the circuit and unlocking the coil. Then the switch circuit will work normally. System 11 CPUs did not even have the zener diodes until Pinbot. [quoted image]

Professor Grumpy, great write up

1 month later
#3153 3 years ago

That’s a thing of beauty, I know a lot of space station owners are going to be thrilled to have an opportunity to purchase that piece

1 week later
#3165 3 years ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

Update on the mold cavity [quoted image]

That’s beautiful!

2 weeks later
#3194 3 years ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

Even better! The first 30 ish sample parts will be send to PPS in a week or so followed by a production run. Fix up all those games!

Great job! It looks perfect

1 week later
#3199 3 years ago
Quoted from PPS:

Ok! The Space Station Mini-Playfield / Ramp is now available - we have a small amount now and will get more in January with a larger run. Thanks to pin-pimp these are outstanding and an expensive endeavor but clearly needed. The product initially will be the BLUE Transparent ramp with Decals and Hardware. You have a choice of either BLACK HEX countersunk screws -or- STAINLESS Philips countersunk screws which will fit nicely so no riveting of the lane guide switch hardware to get things back together. Thanks for your patience, but happy to take this unobtanium product off the list ...
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-R-11780-BLU&Store_Code=PP
Planetary Pinball
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful! Perfect! Great price!

Go get this part guys! I’ll be grabbing a backup later after folks that really need theirs have a chance

2 months later
#3241 3 years ago
Quoted from ezatnova:

Here I go asking a question before I finish the other 62 pages... but, with the "logic" of the light bulb that represents the flame of the shuttle, on the back glass looking like it flickers fast at times to represent a rocket flame, would it / could it be a good idea to put Comet's fire LED bulb in there to give it a neat look? Might not really make much of a difference, but just curious.
Thanks

You could hook up a pinduino, a strip of 2812, and program flames into the LEDs

#3250 3 years ago
Quoted from ezatnova:

I realize this is likely a better search for "decal vs stencil", but wanted to see if anyone here has experience with the SS colors/decals for a restore. The cabinet looks fine on the one I'm getting, but the backbox sides do not and they need work.
I have sourced both decals and stencils as an option. I feel like the decal could be easier, but, would it look "wrong" next to the cabinet? Not sure if Williams of this era were decaled or painted from the get-go. At this point, sort of leaning towards the stencil method, but I will have a pretty high heart rate when I start sanding down the thing and hoping it's not going to be a disaster lol

Don’t stress, the head stencils are a cinch, mask off the ready of the game, sand, spray black, use a blow dryer or wait a day, then lay on the first stencil, rinse , repeat til done... or touch up with a paint brush

4A2F1732-EDD7-4EF4-B517-EEFE4188F1BA (resized).jpeg4A2F1732-EDD7-4EF4-B517-EEFE4188F1BA (resized).jpeg88CBF61B-3B66-4816-947F-CAFFC25C7DB7 (resized).jpeg88CBF61B-3B66-4816-947F-CAFFC25C7DB7 (resized).jpegDC0D8FF1-5921-45A3-8D64-C403BC1CE575 (resized).jpegDC0D8FF1-5921-45A3-8D64-C403BC1CE575 (resized).jpeg
#3280 3 years ago
Quoted from ezatnova:

Thanks! Yep, I looked on Comet and they sell "5SMD 28V Flashers" and then for the other 2 I just ordered normal 5SMD "89 bayonet" flashers.

Personally, I stayed with the original 1251’s, the LEDs were blinding

#3286 3 years ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Just buy a bunch of green and warm white and your set. If your doing the flashers in the backbox, those are easy enough to count.

Count the colors on the inserts, count the gi, count the green gi, count the back box , order from coin taker or comet pinball. Save 30%

Or order a ton of different things in bulk from China and save 40%ish (but still have a ton of leftovers)

#3287 3 years ago
Quoted from BlitzM4:

here is a pdf i put together that should help you find what you need to order
https://images.pinside.com/7/a2/04/7a204962cc6747ba326492ef552e5a683fba5919.pdf
I have changed a few of the colors back to oem since I made it. Backbox flashers behind the "Space Station" title look better in white, and I went back to yellow on the 4 lights in the upper playfield.

Dude, I would have paid $10 for this 6 years ago, great job!

#3291 3 years ago
Quoted from pinbuoy:

did the ramp drop target come w a sticker originally? mine is blank

There was a sticker set I think, it’s for all the drop targets, from what I remember

Edit:
Here
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1437

2 months later
#3366 2 years ago
Quoted from RonSS:

Ordering some capacitors and resistors today for my cpu.
Can I substitute 560 ohms for the spec 580 ohm resistor?
It's #45 on the CPU parts list page from the manual: 580 ohms , 5% , 1/4w , C.F.
Everything is the same except the 580 would be 560.

I don’t see the problem, the 5% is for +or-5%. You have a 23 ohm grace

2 months later
#3420 2 years ago

Mine did it a few times a few years ago iirc

2 weeks later
#3441 2 years ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Thanks so much for this. It truly helped!
I had completely forgotten about the predriver transistor. Changed out Q2, and bam, we’re back in business.
Thank you, ajfclark!

Great work everyone, glad to see the club come together to help a guy fix things.

#3449 2 years ago
Quoted from CMG-3000:

I just picked up a Space Station that appears to be in great shape and operating well. However, the green GI hasn’t turned on with multi-ball when I dock three balls. Can someone confirm how to earn the condition green multi-ball? Also, how can I check the green GI to be sure it is working?

1. Lock 3 balls, listen for “condition green” call out

2. The snubber board relay under the playfield sound like it needs solder reflowed on the pins, or the relay is bad

1 week later
#3469 2 years ago

Nice work, I was going to recommend epoxy or JB Weld to that broken joint, but that copper wire with the solder is a fantastic idea

1 month later
#3541 2 years ago
Quoted from CMG-3000:

I’m looking for the clear plastic piece that goes over the red front pop bumper cover. The back two have the longer one that connects them. Does any one have an extra for the front bumper?
[quoted image]

That plastic , clear with art is the most commonly lost piece on space station, I had to purchase an entire plastic set to get mine years ago, I hope you can find the single by itself

6 months later
#3636 1 year ago

Guys I’m constantly getting rejects after shooting and hitting the left lock (shooting to the left habit rail and going under the mini playfield)

1. Is there supposed to be a 1-way gate to keep the ball from bouncing out?

2. Is there an adjustment anyone has to keep the ball from rejecting?

#3638 1 year ago
Quoted from awesome1:

There should be a little foam bumper at the end to reduce or stop the bounce back. If not add one.

Thank you, I’ll crack it open

4 weeks later
#3651 1 year ago
Quoted from Alex_Lieder:

The "flame flasher" (solenoid 06C) was not working on my machine. I traced the issue to the interconnect board in the lower back of the cabinet (pic 1).
I found no schematics for this board in the manual, but I figured, for the solenoid to work, the board would need to be wired as shown by the red line in pic 2. Blue and yellow line are for other solenoids that work correctly, but, strangely, the encirceled pin on the board does not seem to go anywhere at all. After adding a jumper as shown in pic 3, the flasher works just fine.
Is the board defective by design? Does the "flame flasher" (solenoid 06C) work on any of your stations? If yes... do you know, why? (Maybe I am missing something obvious here as I not an expert.)
---
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Same, I don’t have access to my machine to check, but Space station is one of my favorites, I’d like to know if this is common

8 months later
#3842 1 year ago

I am getting rejects from the rear saucer constantly.

I’ll finally make that satisfying shot in the Nick of time, and boom! Rejected!!

Anyone have a fix?

Space station for me was what caused me to begin my love of pinball, those unique sound effects, music and mysterious call outs and that oh so crazy effects Williams did with the displays! Ss taught me how to handle the pinball better than any other machine because of those crazy positioned slings.

#3846 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

1.) Check the alignment of the playfield, side to side is level and then incline is good.
2.) Check the freedom of movement of the plunger from underneath and that it isn't getting caught up on the little pitch fork shaped ball sensor. Sometimes that ball switch will keep the plunger pushed up and the ball won't have sufficent room to sit down into the suacer and get caught.
3.) If neither of those help, remove the upper playfield, and with the playfield down in it's normal position, roll a ball with your hand in there and see what is going on. Might be a bit of rubber ring or something else loose blocking the way. I also put a small piece of rubber pad on the back angled bracket to soften the blow as I got a bunch of rejects when I first got my game and this helped.

Thank you
I’ll dive in and report back

#3868 1 year ago

What about a big piece of black plastic

E7BE0950-1611-458C-A2C5-3D7C268DCC48 (resized).jpegE7BE0950-1611-458C-A2C5-3D7C268DCC48 (resized).jpeg
#3876 1 year ago
Quoted from Platypus:

Yes! including the bones.

I was hoping someone would get the joke, however, there is a monolith on the Playfield

1 month later
#3897 11 months ago

Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green Condition Green

2 weeks later
#3907 11 months ago
Quoted from ezatnova:

Keep us posted please! Ours are doing the exact same thing.

Rebuild power supply, reflow pins on power supply connectors

Test and clean the optos with a q-tip and alcohol. Replace the motor and gearbox

Nothing else to do

This machine is almost 40 years old, the gears teeth are worn and old

1 month later
#3951 9 months ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Question: Anyone know if there are any plastics protectors on this game? I'm on my second Space Station (First game I ever owned, and regretted selling it). On my first one, the slingshot plastics were broken at where they extend towards the flippers. I can see these are bent a little there too, wondering if I should put some washers under the two posts through the metal ball guide to help them sit at the same level as the star posts. But also figured it would be good to protect them with a stronger protector.
I've done quite a bit of searching online through all the usual suppliers of plastic protectors, nothing is turning up. So thought I would check and see if anyone has seen them on here. Thanks!

Call pinballife, ask them if they can cut you some protectors

#3953 9 months ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

That’s a good idea, I didn’t know they would do custom stuff

I think as long as it’s common stuff, they might have it

#3958 9 months ago
Quoted from derfske:

thoughts about this game?.. for me it looks like a drainer. but also a good machine to train ball control. best place to ask is here where evrybody owns one!

Exactly this, your presumption is correct. However it’s not that much of a drainer once you learn to control the ball, not having in lanes is a challenge, but also unique. I love this machine. Sounds, theme, layout, one of the best packages imo

3 months later
3 weeks later
#3980 5 months ago
Quoted from Jakemate:

Good day all, I've given up!!
Does anyone know where this plastic lives?
Thanks in advance
[quoted image]

Put a keychain on it

1 month later
#4067 3 months ago
Quoted from KJL:

I have played one with the translucent blue left ramp and the mini playfield which look amazing. I see Marco has them but who makes these?

Freeplay40

(It’s the right ramp)

1 month later
#4127 53 days ago
Quoted from Ive:

They are .
It is possible though , and fairly easy once you have done it a couple times to actually slide the playfield forward. I used to do it to work on my Earthshaker as that’s a real pain for access with so much stuff at the rear of the playfield .
You need to pivot the pf vertical , at which point you can lift it straight up to unhook it from the pivot point. May be easier with someone else, but certainly doable on your own.
Then moving it slightly forward you can lower it so the pivot is now behind the hook and drop it down so the the pf hook bracket is resting on the pivot but not hooked on .
Tilt it back down and you can carefully slide it forward a few inches as the playfield wood is actually sitting on top of the pivots now .
Place a blanket or something across the lockdown bar mech area and you can gently rest the playfield on it without damaging anything.
May sound more complicated than it is reading this, but you’ll see it’s straightforward when you do it. And can really make life much easier for certain access.

This is the way, good write up! This should be a note in the manual

#4138 52 days ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Green and Blue LED displays both look great. Can’t go wrong with either of them. With my blue Freeplay40 ramp, I would probably go with the blue, but condition green is so awesome. It would be a tough decision for me.

I like orange, it’s the neutral color, and it looks retro. Blue, green, orange, white, all good choices in my opinion , too bad we can’t change on the fly

#4148 46 days ago

Very cool, I have a few games with polished Mylar, it can turn out nice if done right. A good specimen is needed as well

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