(Topic ID: 58120)

Space Station Club... Members Only!

By mof

8 years ago


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There are 3,596 posts in this topic. You are on page 72 of 72.
#3551 71 days ago

Does anyone know how to get this special light lit during game play below the red target. I know the trick of using the flippers together to change between shuttle and station below the red target. Is that special a different achievement to the two specials above the two extra ball in the middle of the playfield?

IMG_20211116_194903388_BURST000_COVER_TOP (resized).jpg
#3552 71 days ago

All specials are specials as per the config of the machine. As mine is on freeplay, I set specials to score.

In terms of lighting that specific special, light U-S-A four times in a single ball maybe?

[edit: google tells me that's also a configurable setting: http://pinball.org/rules/spacestation.html ]

#3553 69 days ago

I have some 12v LED strips left over from other projects and was thinking they would work great to light the sides of the Freeplay40 (transparent) ramp. Especially if synced to the target is down / ramp is open for a shot, such as Stop-N-Score or shoot-for-lock. Unfortunately I was rather shocked to discover there are no 12V bulbs under the playfield - it's all controlled 6V!

I could easily tie into the 12V flashers elsewhere, but they're not synced to the ramp.

Yeah yeah I know some 6V strips would probably work but my issue there is 1) trying to use what I already have on hand, ha, and 2) I'm afraid if I tie a lengthy 6V strip to a single controlled lamp, that might overload the transistor...?

Anyone ever do this or have any insights to share?

#3554 69 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I have some 12v LED strips left over from other projects and was thinking they would work great to light the sides of the Freeplay40 (transparent) ramp. Especially if synced to the target is down / ramp is open for a shot, such as Stop-N-Score or shoot-for-lock. Unfortunately I was rather shocked to discover there are no 12V bulbs under the playfield - it's all controlled 6V!
I could easily tie into the 12V flashers elsewhere, but they're not synced to the ramp.
Yeah yeah I know some 6V strips would probably work but my issue there is 1) trying to use what I already have on hand, ha, and 2) I'm afraid if I tie a lengthy 6V strip to a single controlled lamp, that might overload the transistor...?
Anyone ever do this or have any insights to share?

If you have already converted the lighting over to LED, the load on the power supply and associated connectors and components is far less than originally with the incandescent bulbs.
Adding an LED strip or two should be fine I would think, but I would get the 6.3v LEDs as they are pretty inexpensive.

#3555 69 days ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

All specials are specials as per the config of the machine. As mine is on freeplay, I set specials to score.
In terms of lighting that specific special, light U-S-A four times in a single ball maybe?
[edit: google tells me that's also a configurable setting: http://pinball.org/rules/spacestation.html ]

Thanks for that. I'm going to take the glass off the weekend, run a game and manually press the U.S.A cycle four times. I have actually managed to do it on one ball. I will check the settings as well. Let you know how I get on.

#3556 69 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I have some 12v LED strips left over from other projects and was thinking they would work great to light the sides of the Freeplay40 (transparent) ramp. Especially if synced to the target is down / ramp is open for a shot, such as Stop-N-Score or shoot-for-lock. Unfortunately I was rather shocked to discover there are no 12V bulbs under the playfield - it's all controlled 6V!
I could easily tie into the 12V flashers elsewhere, but they're not synced to the ramp.
Yeah yeah I know some 6V strips would probably work but my issue there is 1) trying to use what I already have on hand, ha, and 2) I'm afraid if I tie a lengthy 6V strip to a single controlled lamp, that might overload the transistor...?
Anyone ever do this or have any insights to share?

I did this with my freeplay40 ramps. I had 6v light strips on the side wall so the blue ramp was lit up during normal play, and green strips made the ramp glow green during condition green. I’d do it again in a heartbeat, looked great!

#3557 69 days ago

Thanks all. Been a while since I shopped for LED strips; I found a battery-powered 6V set on Amazon for $10 that should ably to the trick (won't be using the battery pack & controller, obviously). As a bonus the face of the strips are shown as black, which should hide well. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out!

#3558 68 days ago

For all its intent as the main toy, I always felt the rotating station is a bit too subtle and easily missed. I know there are different station models out there but haven't bought one. Meanwhile, something I'm working on is stickers for the ball guide underneath the rotating station, to help call more visual attention that it's actually moving! I imagine the portals as "docks" and came up with some quick generic graphics to that effect. Might refine them a bit yet, but for Rev 1 they don't look bad, I think. And they are DEFINITELY effective - you really see them move in / out of place

I have some other ideas in mind but haven't drawn them up yet. I hope to do so soon.

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#3559 68 days ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

All specials are specials as per the config of the machine. As mine is on freeplay, I set specials to score.
In terms of lighting that specific special, light U-S-A four times in a single ball maybe?
[edit: google tells me that's also a configurable setting: http://pinball.org/rules/spacestation.html ]

Thanks for that. I'm going to take the glass off the weekend, run a game and manually press the U.S.A cycle five times. I have not actually managed to do it on one ball. I will check the settings as well.

#3560 68 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Meanwhile, something I'm working on is stickers for the ball guide underneath the rotating station, to help call more visual attention that it's actually moving!

Great idea! I would put that on my machine

#3561 68 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

For all its intent as the main toy, I always felt the rotating station is a bit too subtle and easily missed. I know there are different station models out there but haven't bought one. Meanwhile, something I'm working on is stickers for the ball guide underneath the rotating station, to help call more visual attention that it's actually moving! I imagine the portals as "docks" and came up with some quick generic graphics to that effect. Might refine them a bit yet, but for Rev 1 they don't look bad, I think. And they are DEFINITELY effective - you really see them move in / out of place
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"b2557bd01478b7624ce158c5020aefd9a134641d-1637356657-1800"};
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I have some other ideas in mind but haven't drawn them up yet. I hope to do so soon.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That’s awesome

#3562 67 days ago

Next thing I'm working on is actually something I mused about for a while, but only replacing the upper playfield made it finally click into "necessity".

My original upper PF was so worn, the ball would immediately drop out though the hole. "Big deal" you say, as I did: "It's a hole. The ball is *supposed* to drop out of it!".

Well it turns out, on a nice new repro the hole is - "as originally, before wear" - a bit smaller. So the ball sort of swishes and vibrates and centers itself for a couple seconds before dropping through. This is almost annoying compared to the instant-drop speed I was used to on the old upper pf. But the effect on the new one is not without its charm...

...so I labeled it appropriately.

20211120_130106 (resized).jpg

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The color saturation is off because my home inkjet sucks, apparently. And I might need to tweak scale, but that's subjective

I originally considered text-only on a clear background (waterslide decal) but that requires significantly more effort! So I wanted to get an idea of the overall effect first, but faded color aside, I think I like this (gray background / hashed border) better than plain text. The other issue with plain text on a decal would be getting the opacity of a light color (contrasted against the blue plastic) with the intense backlighting. I have an ALPS decal printer but layering light colors for opacity-thickness is asking for trouble sometimes.

#3563 67 days ago

Needs a different font...and

needs caution symbols
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and an image like a guy getting sucked out an airlock
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#3564 66 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Thanks all. Been a while since I shopped for LED strips; I found a battery-powered 6V set on Amazon for $10 that should ably to the trick (won't be using the battery pack & controller, obviously). As a bonus the face of the strips are shown as black, which should hide well. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out!

OK so my LED strip arrived and I'm running into something that says I still don't know jack $#!^ about electronics. It's an RGB strip but I'm using only one color. I cut the battery pack and effects controller off, and soldered connections to the strip such that + goes to the strip's 5V feed, and - goes to the R/G/B color(s) of choice. Connect this to a test pack, it lights up. Easy enough right?

So I connect it to the game, controlled by the stop-n-score light. I tapped the column (yellow & green) wire for -, and the row (red & brown) for +. This "works" as expected (indeed, if I reverse my connections the strip does not light at all)... But sadly, when connected, every other lamp in same the matrix row / column flickers lit also! If I disconnect the strip, all returns to normal.

OK so maybe I need to add a diode... But I'm not sure where/how. When I add a single diode inline on my LED strip, whether on the + or - side, the strip either does not light at all or exhibits the same interfering behavior (depending on the orientation of the diode). I read somewhere that two diodes (one on each lead) might be needed but when I tried this I still can only get the same result.

I have to think I'm missing something stupidly simple here but I've spent too much time already and haven't figured it out yet. Anyone care to set me straight?

#3565 66 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

OK so my LED strip arrived and I'm running into something that says I still don't know jack $#!^ about electronics. It's an RGB strip but I'm using only one color. I cut the battery pack and effects controller off, and soldered connections to the strip such that + goes to the strip's 5V feed, and - goes to the R/G/B color(s) of choice. Connect this to a test pack, it lights up. Easy enough right?
So I connect it to the game, controlled by the stop-n-score light. I tapped the column (yellow & green) wire for -, and the row (red & brown) for +. This "works" as expected (indeed, if I reverse my connections the strip does not light at all)... But sadly, when connected, every other lamp in same the matrix row / column flickers lit also! If I disconnect the strip, all returns to normal.
OK so maybe I need to add a diode... But I'm not sure where/how. When I add a single diode inline on my LED strip, whether on the + or - side, the strip either does not light at all or exhibits the same interfering behavior (depending on the orientation of the diode). I read somewhere that two diodes (one on each lead) might be needed but when I tried this I still can only get the same result.
I have to think I'm missing something stupidly simple here but I've spent too much time already and haven't figured it out yet. Anyone care to set me straight?

Does that lamp have a through wire? If so, you probably only need to connect 1 wire (the +) and then ground the other wire somewhere else. I'm just spitballing here as I'd have to look myself but what you describe sounds like they share a common wire.

#3566 66 days ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Does that lamp have a through wire? If so, you probably only need to connect 1 wire (the +) and then ground the other wire somewhere else. I'm just spitballing here as I'd have to look myself but what you describe sounds like they share a common wire.

Right, mine I used the GI with a matrix splitter on it.

#3567 65 days ago

I actually thought of that earlier, but didn't want to "cross the streams" by connecting controlled input to GI. But I just now gave it a shot and it doesn't work (+ feed still coming from the stop-n-score row feed, and - went to the GI ground).

And of course now that I type all that out, OF COURSE that would not give me the desired result... because the strip would light up any time the row signal is triggered by other lamps on that same row, not just the stop-n-score.

So... do I need to tie both the row and column to +, and send the - to standard ground? Suddenly that makes sense. But I'm afraid to fry a transistor if I'm wrong.

Man, this would have been "done" if I tied the strip to GI but NOOOOOoooo I just HAD to be difficult and go controlled! Those pinball socket plug-in strips you get from Comet, et al must have something in them to accommodate this.

#3568 65 days ago

I figured it out... and in fairness, it was indeed something simple as I suspected BUT this game's unique particulars juked me into making it more complex

Anyway, I tapped into the row/column wires because the controlled lamp I wanted to use, is a 555 on a circuit board, and the sole one blocked by the drop target. It seemed much easier to tap into the feed wires since I had splice taps for a nice clean install.

But as I typed out my previous post it finally "clicked" that this wouldn't work: Unlike bayonet sockets, where the leads and diodes are exposed right there in front of your eyes so just connect right to those wires at their mounting tabs and don't think about it... The matrix diodes in this case are on that circuit board underside, AFTER the row/column feeds!

To test my suspicion, I removed the board from the PF and touched the strip leads to the pads for SNS lamp: BINGO! It worked! So I soldered some leads to the pads, careful to position them to allow removal of the 555 socket when needed. And it is now in business! Looks great for the whole ramp to flash while SNS is ticking down - nothing more frenetic than when you finally have a good multiplier built and open the ramp but can't get the @*^@ ball to settle down to line the shot before it ticks away

20211121_215116 (resized).jpg

20211121_220652 (resized).jpg

I'll work on refining the Airlock Eject next

#3569 65 days ago

I do think this one looks better:

20211122_094510 (resized).jpg

Changed font (to one I use for seemingly everything including my freelance railroad, ha!), shrunk it slightly, and integrated warning striping into the directional indicators.

I like the thought behind traditional portal / warning iconography, but IMO (subjective) that didn't seem unified with the rest of the game's artwork which is mostly textures and text; figures are otherwise full-suit astronauts and there's already pinball puns in the art. And with the prominent location, I didn't want *BRIGHT YELLOW ACTION* to distract or hold the player's focus. Plus, my wife suggested that it's more fun to see the ball spin-wobble as it settles and prepares to drop, so I made that section transparent anyway.

For similar reasons, I'm not completely sure I will keep the !CAUTION! on the hole recess, but this is separate and can be removed if I change my mind. OTOH, you need to be ready for the high odds of the pop nest hopelessly flinging the ball directly to the outlane so, CAUTION is actually warranted

#3570 65 days ago

The revelation about needing lead wires from each 555 socket on that board, made me realize I can put the multi-colored LED feature to use! I added a lead from the green "dock" light, connected to the green input on the strip. So now when that's lit alone, the ramp is green; when SNS is lit the ramp is "blue" (I combined R and B for violet, but it's pale and becomes blue thru the ramp plastic)... And if both are lit / flashing, the ramp does some cool effects. Really happy with how this turned out!

20211122_115930_2.gif
3 weeks later
#3571 41 days ago

I had a couple PMs asking if I would make the graphics available. So I recently went to a print shop to ask about having actual professional laminated pre-cut decals made, and it could be pretty reasonable depending on quantity and interest. So I'd like to ask who is seriously interested enough to purchase a set that would include the 4 station docks and the "airlock eject" as shown above? I can't imagine charging more than $5-10 a set... but I'm just wondering if there's enough interest to merit the hassle of me revising the art a bit for the printshop (I'd have to modify my layers, vectorize text, etc. And if I want to hand-trace and rescan them to better match the hand-drawn look of the rest of the PF, this gets even *more* troublesome).

If you are seriously interested in purchasing a set please let me know in this thread or by PM. However please know that even if there is enough interest, I *WON'T* have time to pursue "next steps" toward revision / printing until after the holidays! But I wouldn't ask for payment until they're ready anyway.

Thanks to those who expressed interest thus far!

#3572 41 days ago

Interested!

#3573 40 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

I had a couple PMs asking if I would make the graphics available. So I recently went to a print shop to ask about having actual professional laminated pre-cut decals made, and it could be pretty reasonable depending on quantity and interest. So I'd like to ask who is seriously interested enough to purchase a set that would include the 4 station docks and the "airlock eject" as shown above? I can't imagine charging more than $5-10 a set... but I'm just wondering if there's enough interest to merit the hassle of me revising the art a bit for the printshop (I'd have to modify my layers, vectorize text, etc. And if I want to hand-trace and rescan them to better match the hand-drawn look of the rest of the PF, this gets even *more* troublesome).
If you are seriously interested in purchasing a set please let me know in this thread or by PM. However please know that even if there is enough interest, I *WON'T* have time to pursue "next steps" toward revision / printing until after the holidays! But I wouldn't ask for payment until they're ready anyway.
Thanks to those who expressed interest thus far!

Put me on the list for a set.

#3574 39 days ago

Any idea what the “German score board” switch would be?

The switch matrix for Space Station lists this switch 34 in a column with other playfield switches.

43C8D296-A5FA-419B-93CC-65960B176BDE (resized).jpeg
#3575 39 days ago

Interested in the decals

#3576 38 days ago

Having a few problems with my Space Station. Wonder if any of you have had similar or can help me diagnose.

1. Space station rotates but just a tad too far, up/ down is fine. Makes it hard to get into the locks from the right ramp. I don't see any adjustment. Sometimes it lines up correctly

2. Upper lock gets a ton of bounce outs. If you hit it perfectly it just rejects into the pop bumpers.

3. All sounds work but voice is slow and/or garbled after a couple of games. I have a rottendog MPU and have already verified it does that with a different one. So sound board or power.

Any ideas would be appreciated!

#3577 38 days ago
Quoted from mikusm:

Having a few problems with my Space Station. Wonder if any of you have had similar or can help me diagnose.
1. Space station rotates but just a tad too far, up/ down is fine. Makes it hard to get into the locks from the right ramp. I don't see any adjustment. Sometimes it lines up correctly
2. Upper lock gets a ton of bounce outs. If you hit it perfectly it just rejects into the pop bumpers.
3. All sounds work but voice is slow and/or garbled after a couple of games. I have a rottendog MPU and have already verified it does that with a different one. So sound board or power.
Any ideas would be appreciated!

1. Watch which direction the station rotates. Should only rotate counter-clockwise. If goes clockwise, replace station motor. Had to do this on mine years ago.
2. Put a little foam pad where the ball hits.
3. Not sure on this one.

#3578 38 days ago
Quoted from awesome1:

1. Watch which direction the station rotates. Should only rotate counter-clockwise. If goes clockwise, replace station motor. Had to do this on mine years ago.
2. Put a little foam pad where the ball hits.
3. Not sure on this one.

awesome1. It is rotating clockwise. Thanks. I will look at replacing the motor

#3579 38 days ago
Quoted from mikusm:

3. All sounds work but voice is slow and/or garbled after a couple of games. I have a rottendog MPU and have already verified it does that with a different one. So sound board or power.
Any ideas would be appreciated!

Sounds like something is getting flaky as it gets warm. Reseat the ribbon cables, power, etc on the sound board. Measure the voltages on both the PSU test points and the sound board when it's working fine, then again when it starts to play up.

#3580 36 days ago

Thanks for pointing that switch. I didn't observe it before in the manual. I don't know what switch it is. That's interesting all the same.

Later on , I have to take the glass off my machine to repair a broken coil on a popper.

I will check out the switches then, via switch matrix test and see what one it is.

Quoted from jeffc:

Any idea what the “German score board” switch would be?
The switch matrix for Space Station lists this switch 34 in a column with other playfield switches. [quoted image]

#3581 36 days ago

Can I ask you a question? In the back ground of the photo there is a game beside your space station with purple polygonal characters on the side art the machine. What game is that? They look like Simpson character. But not the normal yellow colour.

Quoted from goingincirclez:

I figured it out... and in fairness, it was indeed something simple as I suspected BUT this game's unique particulars juked me into making it more complex
Anyway, I tapped into the row/column wires because the controlled lamp I wanted to use, is a 555 on a circuit board, and the sole one blocked by the drop target. It seemed much easier to tap into the feed wires since I had splice taps for a nice clean install.
But as I typed out my previous post it finally "clicked" that this wouldn't work: Unlike bayonet sockets, where the leads and diodes are exposed right there in front of your eyes so just connect right to those wires at their mounting tabs and don't think about it... The matrix diodes in this case are on that circuit board underside, AFTER the row/column feeds!
To test my suspicion, I removed the board from the PF and touched the strip leads to the pads for SNS lamp: BINGO! It worked! So I soldered some leads to the pads, careful to position them to allow removal of the 555 socket when needed. And it is now in business! Looks great for the whole ramp to flash while SNS is ticking down - nothing more frenetic than when you finally have a good multiplier built and open the ramp but can't get the @*^@ ball to settle down to line the shot before it ticks away
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I'll work on refining the Airlock Eject next

#3582 36 days ago
Quoted from Orange-Brommie:

Can I ask you a question? In the back ground of the photo there is a game beside your space station with purple polygonal characters on the side art the machine. What game is that? They look like Simpson character. But not the normal yellow colour.

That's R&M.

#3583 36 days ago

Cheers I will check it out. Rick and Marty.

1 week later
#3584 29 days ago

I finally got around to rewiring the three sockets in the back right of the playfield that hold the 1251 bulbs (28v). I wired them in series and replaced the bulbs with 12v. the 1251's never lasted very long for me and I wanted colored LED bulbs.

Anyway they stay on all of the time now. This is a solenoid driven circuit. Does anybody know when they are supposed to flash or come on?

My table has been on loan to various friends for 3 years now and I am considering my options to sort it out on the next visit. I next plan to test the TIP122 Q14 for sol15

#3585 29 days ago
Quoted from Platypus:

I finally got around to rewiring the three sockets in the back right of the playfield that hold the 1251 bulbs (28v). I wired them in series and replaced the bulbs with 12v. the 1251's never lasted very long for me and I wanted colored LED bulbs.
Anyway they stay on all of the time now. This is a solenoid driven circuit. Does anybody know when they are supposed to flash or come on?
My table has been on loan to various friends for 3 years now and I am considering my options to sort it out on the next visit. I next plan to test the TIP122 Q14 for sol15

They should turn off at various stages but are on for the majority of the game. They will be off during the coil test except for when they are tested. From memory they are Solenoid 15...

Edit:

pasted_image (resized).png

15 it is.

#3586 29 days ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

They should turn off at various stages but are on for the majority of the game. They will be off during the coil test except for when they are tested. From memory they are Solenoid 15...
Edit:
[quoted image]
15 it is.

so maybe I don't have a problem... I'll check out the coil test.

I do recall that when I first got the game those lens caps were melted.

#3587 28 days ago

Happy Holidays, SpaceStationites! I finally managed to get my Airlock and Station dock graphics professionally printed and could not be happier! The colors and gradients are deep and rich, printed on adhesive vinyl with a thin matte laminate to look just like other pinball plastics and decals. I also revised the dock graphics slightly. Take a look...

20211229_180024 (resized).jpg

20211229_180035 (resized).jpg

20211229_180040 (resized).jpg

They are edge cut and ready to peel and stick. Cost was very reasonable so I can offer these for $6.50 per set, shipping included as a first class letter within the US. Send me a PM if you want a set and we'll go from there. Thanks for the interest!

20211229_180224 (resized).jpg
#3588 22 days ago

Anyone have any suggestions where would be the best place to order a Space Station Translite from?

#3589 22 days ago
Quoted from Redfive05:

Anyone have any suggestions where would be the best place to order a Space Station Translite from?

tardis-the-tardis.gif

#3590 20 days ago
Quoted from Redfive05:

Anyone have any suggestions where would be the best place to order a Space Station Translite from?

I got mine from the seller on ebay. Colors are nice, but the image seems a bit out of focus. Way better then what I started with though, so I'm happy with it.
20211030_184411 (resized).jpg20211030_192428 (resized).jpg20211223_190025 (resized).jpg

#3591 20 days ago

Thanks rottenrobert1313

This is very helpful. I saw there was someone selling printed ones on eBay, but I want sure how the quality would be so I figured I would ask here where people were getting them.

I want to start working on this beat Space Station I've had in storage 10+ years, but when I bought it there wasn't much left of the original translite, so I would never want to put the game in my lineup to work on it without one.

#3592 20 days ago
Quoted from Redfive05:

Thanks rottenrobert1313
This is very helpful. I saw there was someone selling printed ones on eBay, but I want sure how the quality would be so I figured I would ask here where people were getting them.
I want to start working on this beat Space Station I've had in storage 10+ years, but when I bought it there wasn't much left of the original translite, so I would never want to put the game in my lineup to work on it without one.

If you want a really nice one, track down xianek

#3593 20 days ago
Quoted from radium:

If you want a really nice one, track down xianek

I second this. I also bought the one on eBay from Classic Arcades and it’s 100x better than what I have but if I were to do this all over again I would have bought a Premium translite or backglass from xiantek. I have his CFTBL glass and have seen his BoP one and they are wonderful! If you order the glass it will take months to get here from overseas though.

#3594 20 days ago
Quoted from radium:

If you want a really nice one, track down xianek

Their website is https://xianek.eu/

#3595 14 days ago

I got mine from Classic Arcades. Decent quality. Has 6 small cutouts in the translite for the bulbs that appear on the perimeter of the space station. I put flashers in the and it looks great!

Quoted from Redfive05:

Anyone have any suggestions where would be the best place to order a Space Station Translite from?

#3596 14 days ago
Quoted from daly124:

I got mine from Classic Arcades. Decent quality. Has 6 small cutouts in the translite for the bulbs that appear on the perimeter of the space station. I put flashers in the and it looks great!

One suggestion I have can be seen in my posts earlier in the thread. Cut out tiny squares of wax paper and scotch tape them over the back side of those holes in the trans light. It mutes the flashers/bulbs enough that they aren’t piercing and let’s them glow through nicely.

Also I think the blue fire bulbs from comet look amazing in the station window circle of bulbs They twinkle a nice white-blue that is fitting for inside an operating station. Lastly I highly recommend the red fire comet bulb for the one that is the smaller rocket jet.

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