+1 just get the LED unless you really want to screw with replacements. Had the same issue with mine, both 3 and 4 glass tips broke off. Put one of these in and happy.

Thanks, y'all—just put in an order. I was thinking about getting the blue LED anyway, was just planning to hold off for a bit on spending the money. Oh well—I'll drop the coin so I can get this sucker playing!

Really appreciate everyone's help. Thank you much!

Hey again, everyone,

Another dumb newbie question:

So I've got the LED display in...everything's plugged in and seemingly fine...I adjusted the game to Free Play, and...when I hit the Start button, nothing happens.

Also, if I re-start the game, it brings up the setting screen again; it doesn't default to a "play mode."

What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance!

Maybe the balls in the trough and not pushing the switches closed correctly

Are there batteries installed? The game will revert to adjustment if no batteries are installed (I recommend energizer lithium)

No, no batteries installed—planning to replace the battery holder tonight, so hopefully that'll clear that up, thanks!

And as for the balls in the trough: do I need to put them in in some kind of way? I thought I just dumped them in...sorry, very new to pinball machine ownership!!!

Nothing special dropping balls in, but if the first trough switch is not engaging it is not detecting a ball is present to kick in the next ball

Is the battery holder bad?
If it’s not bad, just put in lithium batteries, they won’t leak like alkaline.

Also... is your coin door closed? ... need to make sure the door is closed so the power to the playfield is engaged

The battery holder was gone, and batteries were soldered directly to the leads...so I cut them off. I've got a new holder, so I'm going to put that in later (need to solder it in).

The coin door is closed, but not locked, as I don't have keys. Can that be an issue? How do I make sure power to the playfield is engaged?

There’s an interlock switch the coindoor engages, just need to make sure the door engages it

Ok, update!

So it DOES seem to be an issue with the trough switch not totally recognizing that the balls are there. My wife was futzing with the flipper buttons, then hit the start button again, and a ball kicked into the lane; must have nudged the balls in the trough, and it recognized. Same thing happened when that first ball was done, I kind of nudged the game a bit before the game realized that I'd drained.

Any advice on how to make that switch activate more consistently?

ALSO:

- my spinning space station is in ENTIRELY the wrong configuration. How do I align it properly? It's literally backward from where it should be, so when the ball tried to kick up it was straight hitting a plastic wall, but that's how the plastic seems to fit properly. How do I spin it to be what it should be?

THANKS!

What you describe with the drain and space station actually might be a completely different issue - and a bit more complicated one.

Did the game go through a ball search before it realized it?

If so, it means your optos are not recognizing the station position. I would have to search through this thread, but I had this issue as well and it ended up being an easy fix.

If you do a switch test there may be 2 switches consistently showing issues.

Found it - this was the fix for mine..

3. Space Station doesn't align properly - Fixed! Q42 on MPU was bad. Replaced and station is working properly as well as lane changing. I had looked this over before and somehow missed it
8. Pause when first ball drains - Fixed with Station fix.

I can't say how much I appreciate how helpful everyone's been on this thread; I feel pretty out of my depth, but I'd definitely be drowning without your comments, all. Thanks so much!

So there's definitely an issue with the Station—it's making a sound like it's trying to turn, but stuck on something. It's firmly screwed down on its spring, but I can't find any other reason it would be making that sound.

It's sitting properly, from what I can tell, on the post, with it's square foot fitting into the square shoe at the bottom of the post.

I don't know where to begin with finding the optos; where are they?

Also, how do I do a switch test?

While I had the glass off trying to diagnose what's going on, I also noticed that the kick-out on the upper-right of the playfield (behind the space station) is also not reading when a ball lands there; I'm guessing that's an opto issue, too?

Thanks again, y'all!

Just getting in to the display test, but press the advance button a few more times to step through to switch levels or switch edges:

Brilliant; thank you!

Here are the notifications I get...I'm guessing the "Spc Sta Swich 2" is the issue, but what does 06 53 mean?

IMG_3864 (resized).jpg

IMG_3865 (resized).jpg

IMG_3866 (resized).jpg

Also, found the optos; but I can't tell if they're working, or what. Here's how the sections under the space station looks...

IMG_3862 (resized).jpg

IMG_3863 (resized).jpg

Do you have the manual? if not you might consider ordering one or downloading one.

Ok, I THINK I'm getting the hang of this...sorry for all the dumb questions!

I have figured out what the 06 53 means...silly me. The optos are fine.

I also was able to get the Station to sit in the right direction, by putting it in place and turning it. I didn't want to break anything, so I hadn't tried that before, but without any real force, it turned, and now would allow balls to pass thru.

Now, the issue with the station not wanting to turn on its own persists, however. Seems I may need to replace the motor?

Probably the motor if your optos are good. Especially since you said it was making noise. As long as you are putting it all together and the plastic piece is fitting on the metal two way pole correctly and catching and not slipping somehow

Hang on. That spring is there to allow adjustment of height to match the divrter to the ramp and mini-playfield. If it feels firmly tight, it might be overtight and binding the station/diverter against the ramp. Try loosening it a bit. Not definite, but a thought.

Thanks for this! I left the station toy off, and it still was making the bad sound; so it seems it is the motor. One has been ordered from Marcos!

Thanks again, everyone, for putting up with my silly newbie questions! Everything is making more sense as I move along, and everyone here has been incredibly kind and patient and helpful. It is much appreciated!

I'm looking forward to the day I've got enough knowledge that I can give back to the community, as well!

Hey all,

So I’ve got a new motor, and the new one doesn’t have the little pin that you see thru the post, as you see in this photo.

So, can that pin be removed from this old motor? Can I then use that pin on the new motor? Or do I need to fully remove the plate below the playfield, to then get this old motor off, and I then need to find a little pin that will go in my new motor, so it holds the plastic foot properly?

Thanks!

778CB39E-9556-4DA4-82D8-E1E098D4D4F8 (resized).jpeg

Yes the pin can be reused if you remove it without damaging it , I reused mine when I replaced the motor so I know it can be done but yes you need to completely remove the motor assy. from the game first in order to press that pin out

If you don't want to use the old one you can usually find new roll pins at a hardware store

its actually a solid pin
but I am sure a roll pin would work just fine

Is it just super-tight in there? The pin, I mean? There don’t seem to be threads to screw it out...

Yes, you need a punch to get it out, can be somewhat of a hassle. No threads

I'd tap it flush with a hammer, then use a pin punch set to get it out:
pasted_image (resized).png

Looking for a SS translite ...

PM anytime - thanx

Hey everyone, the new guy is back with some more (probably dumb) questions,

— one of my "STATION" stand-ups isn't working, and I cannot seem to diagnose why. it seems to me that if I'm alligator-clipping the two blades together and it's still not making contact, the issue is probably not the connection of the nipples on the blades, but rather further down the line...though I can't seem to find WHERE.

— the upper-right ball kick-out (behind the station toy) is likewise not connecting, same issue.

(note, I did use the switch test to check that both of the above were not connecting; switch test didn't show me they were making contact)

— a few of the lights in the playfield aren't working, and it's not the individual lamps—swapping lamps that I know DO work, along with their little circular black seats, into those locations still didn't get a light to turn on. the circuit board making these connections seems to be fine...is there a way to diagnose where the problem is?

Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks!

If you highlight the switches affected do they make any kind of pattern?

pasted_image (resized).png

Hm; yes. I didn’t realize that if it were only 2 affected, it could be a short, but I’m seeing that in the manual now, thanks for pointing that out! It’s 18 & 42.

So next dumb question: how do I find the short? I’m trying to trace back the red and white wires... Am I looking for a place that it’s stripped? Or could it not seated in a connection properly somewhere?

Again, any and all help appreciated!

Try reflowing the header pins and traces,I had a diode that needed to be replaced easy to check

Futzing around even more, I realized that EVERY switch on that second line (10, 18, 26, 42, 50, and 58) was out!

And then, after much tracing and checking, sure enough, I just pulled out the connection at the board, then re-seated it. And boom. It all works!

Thank you!

See next post for what’s NOW gone wrong...wooooo...

And now, something awful has happened. As I went to lower the
playfield, the space station started turning, and I heard a
loud
pop, and then - the smell of smoke.

The smoke was coming from the left outhole kicker. It had been
engaged, and wasn’t stopping. Turned the machine off. Looked
under
playfield. This is what I see (see attached) that MAY be the
issue,
but in truth I don’t really know.

This white wire - it should be connected to something (or two
somethings) over here, right? I just can’t see how!

But it doesn’t seem to explain why the motor is turning, or the
left out lane kicker engaged and not stopping...help! If I
unplug J12 in the power board, the left outlane kicker stops
engaging, but the space station keeps turning...even if I start a
game.

[EDIT] i now see that this white wire is just a lighting thing...still for the life of me can’t figure out why the left re-entry solenoid and space station motor are just firing as soon as I start a game...]
C78608D9-8EB2-441E-A08E-7AC7957C90A8 (resized).jpeg

As you found with your switch matrix issue, solutions can sometimes be easy. or at least tracking the problem. The header pins may still need reflowing (with solder in case of cold joints).

But when you have smoke things get more serious in that something fried. Likely it was a solenoid, coming from the playfield. The trick is discerning cause from effect.

I would start by finding the source of the smoke. look for a scorched coil wrapper or such, then test the associated drivers on the main board. Test your coils for resistance also. A shorted transistor can smoke a coil, or shorted coil damage the transistor. I had a coil melt down on a 1 year old machine recently, replaced coil and transistor and was back in business. Or did reconnecting that switch plug lead to the smoke? reactivate another issue? #10 in that problem row is listed as outhole. Make sure your switch tests come out clean.

I am not sure about your space station revolving, I haven't had to ever mess with mine. But I would again suspect a shorted driver. trace these things back in the schematics looking for faulty components.

Your white wire, is that part of the GI circuit? or some of your other problem lights

My game and manual are on loan elsewhere so I haven't anything to look at.

What’s everyone using for apron cards? Any custom options available?

Thanks for this.

I'm positive it was the solenoid, given the location, and the smell (and the fact that the kicker just holds in the "on" position).

Does anyone have a good resource they can point me to, so that I can research how to follow up on testing drivers? I'm super-grateful that everyone the thread has been so great about helping me figure out what I'm doing at each step, but this seems like one of those things I need to learn how to do! I'm able to trace the wires back to the board, but after that, I feel like I just don't know what I'm doing.

In looking at the board, thought, I have discovered that:

a) this C4 capacitor looks like it may be bad, and;
b) there's nothing at VR2, and;
c) it looks like something blew out there, at some point.

I don't see any detritus over there, and in my head I feel like that black mark was there before any of these issues started.

I'm attaching the section of the schematic where VR2 and C4 are; could this be the issue that's making the solenoid fire, and just stay on?

IMG_3937 (resized).jpg

IMG_3938 (resized).jpg

I like the ones posted here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-station-club-members-only/page/11#post-2427031

Pinwiki has good info on testing and repair. also google "testing transistors" for more techniques/explanations. I have cut and pasted various information as I find it to construct my own troubleshooting manual. somewhere I found a coil resistance chart that is good to have.

here is the link to coil resistance chart.
https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.htm

Just following up on my recent woes!

The issue was (is still, for the moment) that upon starting the game, power is sent to the left re-entry solenoid, and doesn't let up, causing the coil to overheat. The station toy is continuously spinning, as well, but if the (attempted) fix I'm about to make doesn't fix that, I'll attend to that later.

On the recommendation of @platypus, I went to pinwiki—and was overwhelmed for a bit, until this stuff started to make sense. By tracing the power of this particular solenoid, and reading some of the troubleshooting advice on pinwiki, I've deduced—or rather, I hope I've deduced, we'll see when I finally receive the part if this does anything—that the transistor at at Q4 may have failed. A new one is on the way, as is a varistor replacement for VR2 (which seems to have exploded on this board at some point, from the scorch marks, though I don't think that's happened while it's been in my possession). I had been somewhat playing the game (albeit with a few things not working properly) before this left re-entry solenoid problem happened, so the missing VR2 is a real head-scratcher for me....

Does that seem logical to y'all? The resistor at R4 is working fine according to my multimeter...I think the only other issue would be the transistor, right?

My next step after this, if it doesn't fix the issue, is to suck it up and buy one of these to replace the whole board; anyone have experience with these? seem to just be plug and play: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/D-11813-552

I have not had any experience with that particular board. But have bought others from marco and had no problems.
Also pre drivers (the small transistor) can go bad causing a coil to lock on. I am sure you have checked the spacing on your leaf switch as you have done the right thing in following Platypus suggestion.

Does Q4 test bad using your multimeter? comparing readings of adjacent similar components makes it simple to determine.

when I first got my machine it had a badly fried transistor with melted trace. At the time I didn't have diagnostic or repair skills or equipment. I choose to send the board of for repair. Chris Hibler did an excellent job rebuilding the damaged section and also installing a super cap as a replacement to the batteries and for a reasonable price too. Many of the fellas who repair these boards have test fixtures where they can simply test functionality through out the board and find other problems. I would attempt to get your board repaired before replacing it.

My board repair skills have slowly improved as I have recapped and reheadered my older boards along with other bullet proofing but I still have to rely on a pro from time to time.

As far as your station problem I would first look at the transistor that drives that mech also.

Hoo-boy, it just never ends...for anyone following the saga, here's where I'm at now!

So @platypus, I wasn't totally sure how to check Q4, but in reading an article on the web about a stuck solenoid that sounded awfully like my issue, I made the decision "it can't hurt to replace it," because the issue I was reading about was resolved with a replaced transistor.

So I replaced mine, along with installing VR2 on the board. And while they seem to work fine, or at least didn't blow up or change anything that I can tell so far, it didn't fix the problem of the left re-entry solenoid firing, and the space station continuously spinning.

And the problem has morphed a bit, too: now, instead of when I turn on the game, the solenoid firing and holding, while the space station spins, and the display looks totally normal—INSTEAD, I sometimes get the solenoid firing five (or was it 6?) times methodically, while the screen flashes "U10 PIA Failure." Space station keeps on spinning when this happens, too.

I've ordered a new U10. Looking at the schematic, it seems to me that the solenoid that controls the space station, as well as the left re-entry solenoid, AND speech functions, all seem to go through U10. And I realize, I've never heard the game talk since I've fired it on, during sound tests no speech happens.

Could the IC at U10 be the problem? We shall soon see.

Again, as always, any thoughts are welcomed. Thanks for following along with my repair journey...

This connector brings the power from the fuses to the GI strings on the backbox. It doesn't connect to anything- it just is a junction for the wires.
Q: is this normal? I have not seen this in other sys 11's! Looks like a botch job but from the factory

The GI wasn't working, after tracing them I had to insert some wires to get the lighting to work.

Anyone else got this setup?

IMG_0715 (resized).jpg

IMG_0716 (resized).jpg

Your missing a GI relay, it goes in the red circle.

ss (resized).jpg

Many people suggest not just blindly replacing components without first determining they are bad. It is easy testing a tip122 with a DMM. http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/#howdmm a googly search will bring up other explainations

Thanks @grumpy, now to find one!

https://www.thepinballwizard.net/electronics/electrical/relay-board-c-11902-1/

Dumb question but is this ok instead of the 12v version?