(Topic ID: 58120)

Space Station Club... Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



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  • 2,931 posts
  • 193 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 days ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 92 Pinsiders

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There are 2931 posts in this topic. You are on page 51 of 59.
#2501 1 year ago

I’m in for a set of stencils as well.

#2502 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

I’m in for a set of stencils as well.

that took less then 10 min -- that's 2 I did a flight 2000 last year and found the pimp to have superior quality product (stencil set)

#2503 1 year ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

Anyone else have extremely weak pop bumpers or is it just me?

Quoted from heni1977:

Mine are also weak, it's time for a rebuild but have not gotten to it yet!

The pop bumpers are Special Solenoids activated by the spoon switch. There should be a 22uF capacitor and a 100 ohm resistor mounted across the special solenoid switches, forming an RC debounce circuit.

If the RC debounce circuit from the switch is damaged or missing, the pop coil will only activate as long as the ball is in contact with the skirt, so the coil will stop firing once the ring hits the ball which is probably pretty lame. The slingshots use the same setup so you should be able to figure out resistor and capacitor placement from there if it's missing from the pops.

I'd check the voltage too. From memory mine are way higher than others people I've checked with (240v, but the supply here is often above that as 250v as +/-5% is still considered in spec) so I don't think I'm that useful a reference. I get 48v at the pop coils, its_me_aj gets about 34v I think.

#2504 1 year ago

Rules questions - How do you relight the kickback? After the 1st multi ball how to you relight the lock(dock)?

#2505 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Rules questions - How do you relight the kickback?

Kickback is a reward in the centre of the playfield X score + relight outlanes. So hitting the right target to get one side to light outlanes, both flippers to protect that selection (changes the effect of the right target) then SHUTTLE or STATION targets as needed.

Quoted from kermit24:

After the 1st multi ball how to you relight the lock(dock)?

Relight dock by completing 123 across the upper playfield, so nail that centre shot and sweep those drops for Bonus X on the way.

#2506 1 year ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Kickback is a reward in the centre of the playfield X score + relight outlanes. So hitting the right target to get one side to light outlanes, both flippers to protect that selection (changes the effect of the right target) then SHUTTLE or STATION targets as needed.

Relight dock by completing 123 across the upper playfield, so nail that centre shot and sweep those drops for Bonus X on the way.

Awesome. Thanks!!

#2507 1 year ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I rebuilt mine when I cleared the play field. Unless I didn’t do something right. But they are unbelievable weak

You might need to recalibrate the switch contacts (primary). If they aren't just right they will be slow and weak.

2 weeks later
#2508 1 year ago

Hi guys,

Just recieved my space station last week and I'm loving it. It came with some issues though.

Pro's
- Nice playfield, got mylar, almost none insert lift
- Good electronics
- Good display
- Decent cabinet
- Reasonable price

Cons
- Mini playfield could be better and is cracked on the right side
- Ramp entrance cracked
- Reset issues
- Head is chipped at one corner

Power supply has been rebuilt last weekend and new version roms are installed. It's working like a charm again. I added leds and I must say that this machine just loves the leds, what a great difference.

Now I'm in the proces of added trough lighting:

sstrough (resized).JPG
#2509 1 year ago

Trough lighting is great but when condition green is active the blue pops out and just is annoying. Therefor I engineered a little solution where in the case of condition green the trough lighting will lightup green as well.
In my "lab-environment" it looks like so:

sstroughblue (resized).JPGsstroughgreen (resized).JPG
#2510 1 year ago
Quoted from HarrieD:

Hi guys,
Just recieved my space station last week and I'm loving it. It came with some issues though.
Pro's
- Nice playfield, got mylar, almost none insert lift
- Good electronics
- Good display
- Decent cabinet
- Reasonable price
Cons
- Mini playfield could be better and is cracked on the right side
- Ramp entrance cracked
- Reset issues
- Head is chipped at one corner
Power supply has been rebuilt last weekend and new version roms are installed. It's working like a charm again. I added leds and I must say that this machine just loves the leds, what a great difference.
Now I'm in the proces of added trough lighting: [quoted image]

Is the left flipper lightning and the right correct or is that a trick of the light?

#2511 1 year ago
Quoted from HarrieD:

Trough lighting is great but when condition green is active the blue pops out and just is annoying. Therefor I engineered a little solution where in the case of condition green the trough lighting will lightup green as well.
In my "lab-environment" it looks like so:[quoted image][quoted image]

That’s great! Have any tutorial on how you accomplished this?

#2512 1 year ago
Quoted from HarrieD:

Hi guys,
Just recieved my space station last week and I'm loving it. It came with some issues though.
Pro's
- Nice playfield, got mylar, almost none insert lift
- Good electronics
- Good display
- Decent cabinet
- Reasonable price
Cons
- Mini playfield could be better and is cracked on the right side
- Ramp entrance cracked
- Reset issues
- Head is chipped at one corner
Power supply has been rebuilt last weekend and new version roms are installed. It's working like a charm again. I added leds and I must say that this machine just loves the leds, what a great difference.
Now I'm in the proces of added trough lighting: [quoted image]

Welcome to the club.

#2513 1 year ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Is the left flipper lightning and the right correct or is that a trick of the light?

Very sharp eye sir. The left flipper is indeed the wrong "lightning" version. Right is the correct one. I will replace for new flippers in a short while along with all new starposts, silicone bands and a complete flipper assembly rebuild.

#2514 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

That’s great! Have any tutorial on how you accomplished this?

It's actually very easy. Just buy 2 24Volts print relay like this one: https://www.conrad.nl/p/fujitsu-ftr-b3-ca-24v-printrelais-24-vdc-2-a-2x-wisselcontact-1-stuks-504392

Buy a rgb controller from like ali-express for 50 cents. Fix yourself up with a led rgb strip (60 leds / meter). Connect the NC side (normal connect) of the relais switch from the rgb controller to the led strip so that in normal mode the strip is feeded by the controller. The NO (normal open) side of the relais for the green wire of the led strip must be connected to ground of the +12 volts.

Now comes the hard part:

Connect the +12V to the rgb controller (and the ground to the relais as mentioned before). I get 12 volts from the drop down target bank which gives the bonus multiplier.
Connect the relais to the condition green relais to the if the condition green relais gets energized your relais gets energized as well.

I will post some pics to make it somewhat more visual.

#2515 1 year ago
Quoted from HarrieD:

Now comes the hard part:

There is an easier way to do this. Use a USB LED RGB strip. Connect the blue lead to the normal GI lamp string and then connect the green lead to the condition green GI lamp string. There is no need to use relays for switching. You will also need 3 general purpose diodes which most of us have if we are doing repairs to our machines, like any 1n400x diode. You place a diode on each led wire lead. The band will face the leds on the blue and the green leads, and the band will face away from the leds on the black lead. And if you want purple instead of blue then connect both of the blue and red leads together before connecting the diode.

ebay.com link » Usb Powered Rgb Color Change 5050 Led Strips Computer Tv Pc Back Light Kit Dc 5v

This will cost less than 3.00 dollars total.

#2516 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

There is an easier way to do this. Use a USB LED RGB strip. Connect the blue lead to the normal GI lamp string and then connect the green lead to the condition green GI lamp string. There is no need to use relays for switching. You will also need 3 general purpose diodes which most of us have if we are doing repairs to our machines, like any 1n400x diode. You place a diode on each led wire lead. The band will face the leds on the blue and the green leads, and the band will face away from the leds on the black lead. And if you want purple instead of blue then connect both of the blue and red leads together before connecting the diode.
ebay.com link » Usb Powered Rgb Color Change 5050 Led Strips Computer Tv Pc Back Light Kit Dc 5v
This will cost less than 3.00 dollars total.

Looks like you should go into the mod making business. $25 sounds like a good price for those of us who don't know jack about electronics.

#2517 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

There is an easier way to do this. Use a USB LED RGB strip. Connect the blue lead to the normal GI lamp string and then connect the green lead to the condition green GI lamp string. There is no need to use relays for switching. You will also need 3 general purpose diodes which most of us have if we are doing repairs to our machines, like any 1n400x diode. You place a diode on each led wire lead. The band will face the leds on the blue and the green leads, and the band will face away from the leds on the black lead. And if you want purple instead of blue then connect both of the blue and red leads together before connecting the diode.
ebay.com link » Usb Powered Rgb Color Change 5050 Led Strips Computer Tv Pc Back Light Kit Dc 5v
This will cost less than 3.00 dollars total.

I wasn't aware that there are 5V usb strips, will most definately investigate this.
Your approach has two flaws though:

1. you cannot regulate the color of the lighting in the normal state as to my approach enables the user to select the color using the rgb ontroller. The solid blue isn't the best color in my opinion, I set it to somewhat "baby blue"
This point was one of my main concerns in my design.

2. with a diode in series to the GI you will see that the lighting will flicker. You need to add a capacitor to stop the flickering.

#2518 1 year ago
Quoted from HarrieD:

I set it to somewhat "baby blue"

Yes if you want complex colors then you will definitely need a light controller but you just mentioned blue.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Looks like you should go into the mod making business. $25 sounds like a good price for those of us who don't know jack about electronics.

I took it in the shorts the last time I made something for a group of pinsiders, but if you would like I can make you one.

#2519 1 year ago

I would think white with GI and then green in multiball would look better! IMO any way. I would be in for one grumpy

#2520 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I would think white with GI and then green in multiball would look better! IMO any way. I would be in for one grumpy

This can be done with RGBW leds but I'm not sure if they are available in 5 volts. I can check after work.

#2521 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This can be done with RGBW leds but I'm not sure if they are available in 5 volts. I can check after work.

Couldnt' you just wire the normal GI to all three leads of the RBG? That'd be whiteish, right?

#2522 1 year ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

That'd be whiteish, right?

It's is whitish, but the colors are kind of mixing in the air as there is no diffuser covering the leds. This lends it to looking a bit greyish white in my opinion. Now if you were to call it white, there would a bunch of people all pissed off saying it's not. If this is what you want to do then tie the red and blue together and install a diode in between the red/blue and the green. Then when you put power on one side of the diode it lights green, move the power to the other side of the diode then it lights whitish.

#2523 1 year ago

Another mod I will make is the illuminated flipper buttons. Normaly I tie the leds into the GI string of the coindoor because that's the closest but in this case I will mount 2 leds per side, a green one which will be tied the condition green GI and the other will be blue, red or white (must experiment with that) which will be tied into the normal GI string.

#2524 1 year ago

Condition green doesn’t last that long (at least for me) not sure there’s value in a separate green light.

#2525 1 year ago

I just went with the green lighted flipper buttons, I also have beatmaster lighted shooter housing in green. I did this mod
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

#2526 1 year ago

That new upper playfield looks DOPE! I have an original blue one in good shape, but I would definitely upgrade if/when these are available.

Anyone have thoughts about upgrades for the space station toy? The vacuform one is a bit blah for me, and the 3-spoke silver one is cool, but maybe too far from the original form. Has anyone made a detailed model that stays somewhat true to the backglass design?

#2527 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I just went with the green lighted flipper buttons, I also have beatmaster lighted shooter housing in green. I did this mod
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

How's this for green.

IMGA0988 (resized).JPG
#2528 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

That new upper playfield looks DOPE! I have an original blue one in good shape, but I would definitely upgrade if/when these are available.
Anyone have thoughts about upgrades for the space station toy? The vacuform one is a bit blah for me, and the 3-spoke silver one is cool, but maybe too far from the original form. Has anyone made a detailed model that stays somewhat true to the backglass design?

I keep thinking that with all the 3D printing going on these days that might happen. So far nothing, not even repros that I'm aware of.

#2529 1 year ago
Quoted from Zablon:

I keep thinking that with all the 3D printing going on these days that might happen. So far nothing, not even repros that I'm aware of.

The silver one is 3d printed.

#2530 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

The silver one is 3d printed.

I meant one more like the original. The silver one doesn't really fit the asthetic IMO.

#2531 1 year ago
Quoted from Zablon:

I meant one more like the original. The silver one doesn't really fit the asthetic IMO.

Say what ya mean and mean what ya say.

#2532 1 year ago

The wife said yesterday that, She wants them leg light ups on the space station!

#2533 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

The wife said yesterday that, She wants them leg light ups on the space station!

Shoot me an order and I'll get right on it.

#2534 1 year ago

Reading back, I would be in for a stencil set too...but I'd have to find someone to do the cabinet restore and painting. Not really my forte.

#2535 1 year ago
Quoted from Zablon:

I keep thinking that with all the 3D printing going on these days that might happen. So far nothing, not even repros that I'm aware of.

Here are the vacuum form ships I'm doing. I have the silver one on mine and love the look.
Brian

42abcc702895960eb9faa5338970bcea1f766817 (resized).jpg
#2536 1 year ago
Quoted from Zablon:

I would be in for a stencil set too

Whats the cost on this? I could be in for one!

#2537 1 year ago
Quoted from bpull:

Here are the vacuum form ships I'm doing. I have the silver one on mine and love the look.
Brian[quoted image]

I’m interested in one too.

#2538 1 year ago
Quoted from bpull:

Here are the vacuum form ships I'm doing. I have the silver one on mine and love the look.
Brian[quoted image]

Do you have any pics you would share of the silver one in your game?
I have one of your white ones now. Nice product.

#2539 1 year ago
Quoted from EdisonArcade:

Do you have any pics you would share of the silver one in your game?
I have one of your white ones now. Nice product.

Thanks, I do, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vacuum-formed-my-own-space-station/page/4#post-3607879
First time linking so I hope this works.
It is darker to see, but i love the look of it, kinda spooky.
Brian

1 week later
#2540 1 year ago

Looking for some help with my Station. After playing for a few games, the Station will not like to stop in the proper place. Sometimes it will spin continuously.

I have checked the opto board under the Station and it is working fine in switch test. I also replaced the optos for good measure. I reflowed all the header pins on the MPU board and reflowed eveything on the Station motor relay board.

If I turn it on I can always play a few games before it starts to act up. Starting to think to is pointing to a bad PIA somewhere. Anyone had this issue?

Sometimes when I turn the game it it will say "U10 PIA Failure" but this happens only occasionally and I have read this message often isn't accurate.

#2541 1 year ago

Motor? or rather the 'pin' in the motor? Is it going the right direction?

#2542 1 year ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Motor? or rather the 'pin' in the motor? Is it going the right direction?

There is a relay board under the playfield that turns the motor on and off. I reflowed everything on that.

Yes it is going in the right direction.

#2543 1 year ago

not always but quite often it turns out being worn out gears in the motor that cause this issue

#2544 1 year ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

not always but quite often it turns out being worn out gears in the motor that cause this issue

ok - I think it may be less likely in my case since it always works perfectly for a number of games when I turn it on before it starts acting wonky. But maybe not... Anyone else have this issue?

#2545 1 year ago

New motor on eBay. Maybe it heats up after multiple games and starts binding? It’s good to have a backup anyhow, imho.

ebay.com link

#2546 1 year ago

Not sure how hard it may be to swap just the shaft, but I am pretty sure the same motor is used for multiple games. Marcos has it for as cheap as $31. I ordered one but haven't gotten to that part of my restore, so I haven't found out if it was a bad decision yet. At the time I didn't think to check ebay. My problem is similar, sometimes works well, other times misaligned. Moves the correct direction.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=14-7941-2

#2547 1 year ago
Quoted from twenty6point2:

Not sure how hard it may be to swap just the shaft, but I am pretty sure the same motor is used for multiple games. Marcos has it for as cheap as $31. I ordered one but haven't gotten to that part of my restore, so I haven't found out if it was a bad decision yet. At the time I didn't think to check ebay. My problem is similar, sometimes works well, other times misaligned. Moves the correct direction.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=14-7941-2

Its simple to change out just the shaft, Just hold the housing in a vice, not to tightly and use a square ended set of pliers to gently pull back the holding tabs and pull the mounting plate away and change the shaft, took me less than ten minutes. You can do it.

#2548 1 year ago
Quoted from mymalibu:

Its simple to change out just the shaft... You can do it.

Thanks for the reply mymalibu! Finally got most of the playfield depopulated on my game and removed the mylar. Inserts are really raised and the mylar was peeling up in the pops. Hopefully I haven't bit off more than I can chew , the game was playable before I started

I am thinking:
-Remove the mylar glue and clean
-Level the inserts and re-decal
-fill minor dings and a screw hole
-minor touch-up on the paint
-wax and new mylar
-repopulate and LED

IMAG3667 (resized).jpg
#2549 1 year ago
Quoted from Zablon:

I keep thinking that with all the 3D printing going on these days that might happen. So far nothing, not even repros that I'm aware of.

I might be able to hook you up, I had a friend print one for me, looks great

#2550 1 year ago
Quoted from twenty6point2:

Thanks for the reply mymalibu! Finally got most of the playfield depopulated on my game and removed the mylar. Inserts are really raised and the mylar was peeling up in the pops. Hopefully I haven't bit off more than I can chew , the game was playable before I started
I am thinking:
-Remove the mylar glue and clean
-Level the inserts and re-decal
-fill minor dings and a screw hole
-minor touch-up on the paint
-wax and new mylar
-repopulate and LED
[quoted image]

Hmmmmm is there any dried glue on the inserts? That stuff is hard as a rock and you'll have to pull the inserts and sand them flat then, glue them back in and re-decal.

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