Hmmmmm, where did ya buy it from. Yeah $80 is a stinker.

What are you using for the 5 bolts on the front curve, #6 or #8 and how long are they? You can get clear plastic nuts and bolts on ebay cheep. I think they would be strong enough because that area doesn't take much of an impact and they would transmit light so the heads may even light up a bit.

Yes$80 seems excessive. What is your hardware list? I’ll run it by my hardware supplier and see what he can do.

1" white rubber ring
3/16" white rubber ring
5/16" white rubber - (X4)
12-SMSW - sub miniature switch with 4" lever - (X3)
03-8149-12 flasher dome with screw tabs
535-5210-00 - Ball Gate Bracket - (X2)
12-16910 - Wire Gate (X2)
077-5107-00 Lamp Socket Medium Bayonet Straight
E-120-162 - Lamp Socket - bayonet 2 terminal - (X4)
545-5121-00 - Sub mini switch bracket - (X3)
03-8319-10 Star Posts 1 1/16 - (x4)
PG46 - Lane Guides 2 1/8" - (X2)
530-5753-00 Post, Hex Base 8-32 base / 10-32 thread - (X2)
02-4003 - Mini Post 8-32 thread - (X2)

And that's not everything, for a 'plug and play' model I'd also need some LEDs, the screws, connectors, wire, etc... I will make a final list once I get the first one built. some of these parts may change (like the wire gates)

for a 'bare bones' model I could probably get away with shipping just the acrylic, and switches (the old switches would not be compatible because of how and where they were mounted) Then owners could just dismantle their old playfields (if they have them) and re-use bayonets and wire gates and such.

Well I think you could scratch off the white rubber rings, the star posts and the leds.

the lane guides will require posts of some sort to hold them up. And I'f I am offering them 'plug and play' people probably don't want to have to order new rings right off the bat if they don't have any on hand?

But in a 'bare bones' order I suppose they would not need to come with rubber.

Sorry,
I thought you were just talking Screws, Nuts, Rivets etc.

I can't help with pinball specific stuff.

yea the screws nuts and plastic are cheap. Its the posts, wire gates, lane guides, bayonets, etc.... This playfield is pretty complicated once you stop and dismantle it. Pinball aint cheap!

Greetings All I just picked a Space Station. When I got it home I noticed it looks like the translight is almost 1/4 inch short ? It looks factory cut with the 6 holes

Capturespace (resized).JPG

Search the forum and you'll find a thread on mail forwarding. I just used the mail forwarder everyone talked about and it worked out great.

Thanks but ended up working out a deal with a fellow pinsider in uk to for me and ship to me

Anyone interested in a complete Translite glass trim all assembled .its not perfect has a couple spots but is better than alot i have seen glass and trim are brand new. Thanks to DangerDan i have a mint nos one in mine now so dont need this one. Pm if interested will include a pic of it in the machiene

70D82D2A-523B-4FE2-A103-FF7B31368BDF (resized).jpeg

31B1B1A7-FA04-4B30-99B0-55648C835FD5 (resized).jpeg

1CBCE048-7DEE-4AD7-AD80-089231B751EA (resized).jpeg

F10F5C50-EDD6-4F62-A956-BA2669F2153E (resized).jpeg

07441C09-6A1A-4AD3-BB4B-D82B74967BD6 (resized).jpeg

Hi fellow pinsiders (and Space station owners). This is my first post. Firstly, pls excuse for the lack of language/flipper-lingo, i'm from Sweden and i'm somewhat new to this whole pinball-thing (...i love it!)

I picked up my very first pinball game (doubtfully my last), a Space station a while back and i love the theme! I works in general but have some issues that you guys maybee have some answers to?

Things fixed so far:
___ELECTRONICS__________
* Replaced faulty and and (two) broken fuses
* Replaced and relocated the battery due to "system failure". Now saves hi-score, free play mode etc - works allright. No visual corrosion-problems but the contact points on the old battery connector was not in its best shape (falling of when touched).
____COSMETICS___________
* Replaced the legs and bolts (old faulty legs/bolts)
* Space station toy is missing - i've ordered a reproduction one from a fellow pinsider (Pbull)

____ISSUES______________
1. No GI (white nor green) works on any side.
I know this is a common problem but i cant figure it out. Generally people have problems with one side, i have none...
Did a simple lamp test (http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index2.htm - Heading: 3j. When things don't work: the Lamp Matrix ) and it turns out that the 1J7-connector (rows) on the CPU board does not light up at all during "All lamps test". The odd thing is that the majority (i could say all, but i'm not really certain, i think some of the bulbs are out) of the other lamps on the playfield works as expected when the connector i plugged in.

I have no idea where to even start with this. All fuses is tested ok.

2. Left kicker (lft drain lane) does no work. Changed a bad coil but it will still not be activaded when the swich is pressed. The switch itself seems to function (did a continuity test with my DMM)

Any ideas?

3. Bottom jet bumper sometimes gets stuck in its lower mode.
Maybee it just needs some cleaning?

4. Single drop target is somewhat slow
Will cleaning help?

5. Sound is somewhat crappy. It works but i can hear a humming noise in the speakers all the time and when turning the game on it sometimes "pops" quite loud. I also hear some "ghost"-noices when sound/music is fading etc.

Can this have to do with old caps or maybe a ground problem?

6. The bottom right numeric display does not work. Guess i have to replace the whole thing with an Xpin? Is there anything else i can test before i spend $200+ on a whole new display unit?

7. Left flipper coil is weak (worked when i got the game). Ohm-tested the coil it last night, it seems like its faulty. Guess i'll try ordering a new one.

8. Open box switch seems to not work at all

Is this a big concern?

9. Switch problems? See attached pics. I have no idea what this might be. Cant find anyhing in the manual. Since i also have the bottom left display issue i cant see the whole message.

Any ideas?

All of the above is things i want to have fixed before dismantling the whole thing and give it a proper clean, change the rubber and the lights. Did buy ordinary lights but i'm now concidering LEDs instead. Any suggestions on vendor? I want the game to look somewhat "original" and i'm a little allergic to the instant on/off the led's produce. I kind of like the old bulbs in that way, they kind of fade a little when turning off/on. I would like the game to produce more vibrant colors, but not to much.

2018-03-17 21.43.21 (resized).jpg

2018-03-17 21.43.20 (resized).jpg

Also check all the solder joints on the GI relay boards. They are notorious for cracked solder joints which stops everything working.

See further down below for updates. Had a couple of hours free yesterday.

____ISSUES______________
1. No GI (white nor green) works on any side.

UPDATE: continuity-tested the transistors, well the transistors Q14, Q15, Q17 (TIP-ones) turned out to be bad. Two of them have to do with GI and the left kicker so in all some "good news". Will change them and the "pre-driver" as zFabi sugested - thanks!

2. Left kicker (lft drain lane) does no work. Changed a bad coil but it will still not be activaded when the swich is pressed. The switch itself seems to function (did a continuity test with my DMM)
UPDATE: See nr.1 bad transistor

3. Bottom jet bumper sometimes gets stuck in its lower mode.

4. Single drop target is somewhat slow

5. Sound is somewhat crappy. It works but i can hear a humming noise in the speakers all the time and when turning the game on it sometimes "pops" quite loud. I also hear some "ghost"-noices when sound/music is fading etc.

6. The bottom right numeric display does not work. Guess i have to replace the whole thing with an Xpin? Is there anything else i can test before i spend $200+ on a whole new display unit?
UPDATE tried the +100v -100V at the power supply. Did'nt get the -100v at all then i blew the 0.25A fuse so i guess i have to order some of theese too.

7. Left flipper coil is weak (worked when i got the game). Ohm-tested the coil it last night, it seems like its faulty. Guess i'll try ordering a new one.
Update: FIXED! Turns out there was some "schmoo" (dirt) in between the contacs on the EOS-switch. My bad the dirt got there when i cleaned the switch a couple of days ago. again zFabi - thanks!

8. Open box switch seems to not work at all

9. Switch problems? See attached pics. I have no idea what this might be. Cant find anyhing in the manual. Since i also have the bottom left display issue i cant see the whole message.

#3 Rebuild your jet bumper. It's not that hard, just follow vid's guide to rebuilding pop bumpers. Could possibly be a very dirty coil sleeve, or another broken part. The parts are cheap.

#4 Take apart and clean the drop target assembly. The spring could also be bad. Be careful with the springs, they are easy to destroy if you don't have one of those spring-grabbing tools.

Buy a white one that way you can put different color filters in front to change the look whenever you want.

#5 might be normal actually Sound quality isn’t like the newer pins. Also , mine makes a sound when powered on, and I can faintly hear some game sounds when I shouldn’t in attract mode sometimes.
Congrats on the solutions so far , looks like you’ll have it 100% in no time .

Will test this during the cleanup process later. First take care of the more major problems

I'll keep it in mind although i like the "original" style + that one (xpin) is a little cheaper, atleast here in SWE

Did you ever replaced your caps? I'm a little used to this when restoring old stereos, new caps really makes the difference!

Other question. I've seen that the original plunger/shooter spring (original part.nr: 10-148-5) is really a rare item and i cant find it anywhere. Now i have a standard black one and it´s really weak. I also suspect the original spring is a little taller/shorter or something cause the plunger doesent reach the ball really well.

Is there a good alternative to the original spring or could someone point me to a place that might have them in stock?

Thanks a bunch for the help so far!

I just picked up my 2nd Space Station (traded my last one for a Getaway). I rescued this one from a barn near Huntsville, AL. It had been sitting out there for 12yrs. No coincidence that I’ve found both of mine near the Space and Rocket Center.

Anyway, look at the inside of this backbox. Just completely covered in mud dauber and wasp nests. Miraculously, once I cleaned it, I am able to play a game (sort of). Lots of issues to deal with but it’s such a cool game, it’s worth it.

00DBE774-C76B-4607-8456-B00AEF0E945F (resized).jpeg

3A8CD539-E219-410A-84BB-90A80B00DF9E (resized).jpeg

FF71F6CA-E63E-460A-A8D1-3E5C1B03FAAC (resized).jpeg

C1158AAC-3D4F-4A92-92A7-4DE524B97604 (resized).jpeg

8793E72D-626D-4CCF-8B89-0A525211F7E1 (resized).jpeg

Yikes!
Nice pickup once you get the nasty bugs out.
And the aluminum foil fuses!

Give it a bit of a stretch.

Oh I bet that back box came alive once you fired it up! LOL
Nice find!

Never considered that , good thinking , I'll have a look at the sound board next time I pull the translite out for something . It's really not any worse than my other system 11 games though, think mine might be normal . All these electronic components are old , that's for sure.
Fun fact about my space station : bought in 1993 when it was 5 yeas old, been in my home ever since . My first pin , in my newly renovated basement game room, 25 years ago.
JP

I am going to print out some custom instruction cards for Space Station but I left the exact measurements that I took last night at home. Can anyone send me the measurements of the instruction cards that they can send me?

Last time I did this, I got quality card stock and used the measurements that I found online but it was a little to big. Thanks!

I posted some a while back, they were the perfect size, all you hav to do was print them out ... I want to say 6”x3.25”, but that may need to be checked

My memory says 152mm x 82mm which is 5.98" x 3.23".

Has anyone had the Space Station with the following symptoms:
Everything is working great, you have an extra ball light lit up and you are real close to reaching a score where you will be awarded an extra ball ( we have high scores rewarding extra ball instead of credit) then you loose your ball. The game goes into add score mode and in the process the points you needed to receive the extra ball award are awarded.... everything lights up to let you know that you made it to this point level and wham... the game goes into a creeping point addition mode, so slow that we mostly hit the power switch and start over. I have pretty well gone from the first page to the last of repairing Williams System 11 and have yet to figure what might be going on and it only happens after the ball drains as mentioned.

See further down below for updates. Had a couple of hours free yesterday.
____ISSUES______________
1. No GI (white nor green) works on any side.

UPDATE: continuity-tested the transistors, well the transistors Q14, Q15, Q17 (TIP-ones) turned out to be bad. Two of them have to do with GI and the left kicker so in all some "good news". Will change them and the "pre-driver" as zfabi sugested - thanks!

SOLVED: changed two of the tip122-transistors and it’s predrivers mentioned above - success! Now all the GI-lighting works again!

2. Left kicker (lft drain lane) does no work. Changed a bad coil but it will still not be activaded when the swich is pressed. The switch itself seems to function (did a continuity test with my DMM)
UPDATE: See nr.1 bad transistor

UPDATE 2: still no go. Tested the tip122 mentioned above again, it now seemed to work again so I didn’t change it when changing the other 2 (q14, q15, q17). Guess it’s bad after all, might give it I try and change the last one tomorrow

3. Bottom jet bumper sometimes gets stuck in its lower mode.

UPDATE: ordered a rebuild kit for all 3, will rebuild them when cleaning later.

4. Single drop target is somewhat slow

5. Sound is somewhat crappy. It works but i can hear a humming noise in the speakers all the time and when turning the game on it sometimes "pops" quite loud. I also hear some "ghost"-noices when sound/music is fading etc.

6. The bottom right numeric display does not work. Guess i have to replace the whole thing with an Xpin? Is there anything else i can test before i spend $200+ on a whole new display unit?
UPDATE tried the +100v -100V at the power supply. Did'nt get the -100v at all then i blew the 0.25A fuse so i guess i have to order some of theese too.

UPDATE: well, I think I f-cked up the PSU-board, possibly shorted something. Now it blows the 0.25a fuse after replacing it. Disconnected the wording going to the displays but. I luck, still blows fuses. Between the 0.25A fuse I get a read of about 100v, is it suppose to be that high or is there something wrong with the board/transistor or other? Ordered a dis200 display but haven’t received it yet.

7. Left flipper coil is weak (worked when i got the game). Ohm-tested the coil it last night, it seems like its faulty. Guess i'll try ordering a new one.
Update: FIXED! Turns out there was some "schmoo" (dirt) in between the contacs on the EOS-switch. My bad the dirt got there when i cleaned the switch a couple of days ago. again zfabi - thanks!

8. Open box switch seems to not work at all

9. Switch problems? See attached pics. I have no idea what this might be. Cant find anyhing in the manual. Since i also have the bottom left display issue i cant see the whole message.

DF0B0273-F79E-4CAA-9CC8-5922AC23AEFD (resized).jpeg

If the 1/4 amp fuse on the PSU is now blowing, yes, it's likely that one of the transistors has shorted or there's some other issue in the high voltage side of things. You can rebuild it, but if you have an xpin display coming, don't stress about it as the xpin doesn't need the high voltage side of the PSU. Leave the F1 fuse on the PSU empty, take out the two in the centre of the back box (1/10 amp), and sell the remains of your high voltage displays on to help subsidise the cost of the xpin.

I've gone the other way and rebuilt the HV side of the PSU, but I still have issues with my HV display board itself. Even once I've fixed that I'm pretty sure I've only got 2 or 3 working displays. Comparatively it's a lot of work to get the HV displays working, and they eventually stop working anyway.

4. Single drop target is somewhat slow

A previous owner coated the drop target mechs with oil. Took it apart and cleaned it good. Runs 100% now.

What's the open box switch?

I've had the "creeping point addition mode" happen too. Never could figure it out. I just turn the machine off and start over.

Same here , it happened to me a few times, I think I rebuilt the power supply and didn’t see it again, been too long though I don’t exactly remember

The coin box.

But where do I get the the power to the new display then? Isn’t it the same connector that blew the fuse? Or is there another one?
Ah, maybe I’ll try to sell the whole display unit as one piece, thanks for the tip!

So I replaced the q15 transisor and it’s predriver,l but the left kickback is still not functioning. The strange thing is when I try it (continuity testing with DMM with everything wired up) it’s shorted (beeps) but when the cpu board is out or I disconnect the plug going to the kickback coil the transistor is fine.

Why is this?

The 6 pin power connector to the left display board carries:

1 -100vdc
2 Not connected
3 +100vdc
4 key
5 ground
6 +5vdc

The fuses in the backbox are directly inline with pins 1 and 3. As the LED board only needs the +5vdc connection, it's safe to leave those fuses out.

Have an extra set of new pf plastics that look great -the single pop bumper piece if anyone is in need of them

Added over 6 years ago: Have an extra set of new playfield plastics that look great . Missing the single pop bumper piece ( needed it for my machine ) . If anyone needs them. Would prefer to sell as a set

You mean the switch on the top left corner of the coin door? That's the memory protect switch mentioned on page 2 of the manual:

The memory protect switch is on the inside frame of the coin door. This interlock switch mst be open to clear bookkeeping totals, and to make game adjustments. It automatically opens, when the coin door opens.

It doesn't matter if it's broken. One of my system 11 machines it's completely missing:
pasted_image (resized).png
The black/red and white never connect anymore, so the memory is never protected.

Does the switch register in the switch test?

Does the coil fire in the coil test?

Stop shotgunning this, you need to test it first to find out what is wrong and then repair it once.

If you have voltage at the coil, I'd check continuity from the coil back to the connector at the MPU.

Hi. Does anyone know where I can get custom cards for my space station I have just picked up?
Dave