Its definitely an option, but that area of the upper PF is VERY close to the glass, so there is not a lot of room But I'll see what I can work with

What are you planning to do with the lane divider/lamp shields ?

going to either use metal rails like the ones bellow the U S A inserts, or get some regular lane guides if they will fit. It's possible I could cut or cast something custom, but there's already so much work going into designing this right now I'd prefer an 'easy' option if I can get it.

Taking the weekend off on this project to work on my portfolio and get some maintenance done on my Swords of Fury. Also my Lane diverter on Space Station stopped behaving again... so I guess I have to fight that familiar battle once more. I should have some more updates on the playfield next week.

That upper is crazy, I’d be in too. I had to replace the guides on mine as they were broken. I used clear lane guides and put slow color changing LEDs under them.

I love Space Station and right now (Feb 24, 2018) in Seattle TWO are for sale on Craig’s List. I am loaded up and have no room but man I am tempted. Both want over $2k but both look better than average condition.

What are the odds two would be for sale at the same time. I think they were a little high on price or they would be gone. Of course there was a Medusa on CL this week too but that sold in a day.

If I had room....

you can always find room .... put a game @ a friends house for awhile

That's nuts. Ya got a link, I'd like to see how good a shape they are in.

One is mine, the one listed at a lower price. Mine does have flaws (noticeably the upper playfield and a crack in the newer blue transparent ramp, but I outline all those in the ad in order to avoid wasting people’s time. Mine has the green LED displays and has been stripped all the way to the wood and all pieces cleaned and polished up, broken pieces replaced (exception of 3 plastics). I do have a NOS plastic set that I was going to use to fix those broken pieces.

I’ve gotten a ton of trade offers but I’m not really wanting to trade currently, so none of those have worked out. I listed it because someone who previously bought one of my machines saw it when he picked up the other machine, and inquired a few days later about buying it. At the time I wasn’t thinking about selling, but an opportunity came up for another machine I want so it softened me to the idea of selling.

The prices in the Seattle area are pretty ridiculous but from what I’ve seen, the prices on mine and the other listed are in line with several that sold around NWPAS last year. Things that are priced high or close to market value are moving slow right now because people are selling machines to fund their next NIB purchase. I know I’ll be in the same boat if they make a Tron Vault.

If it does sell, cool I’ll grab that other opportunity machine. If not, no biggie. I’ll buy a replacement upper from here if that amazing project works out, and likely buy another new ramp from Mark in Bothell. But at that point we’ll be keeping it for a long time.

And I'm back. This one is gonna need some work. Definitely looking out for a new translight.

Welcome back, that was quick.

seattle.craigslist.org link

seattle.craigslist.org link

One has a green displays one guy is offering new plastic sets - just about right priced for Seattle, prices are always higher here.

Would need more pics but the price is about right.

Just about finished with my restoration aside form one part. I need to find the space station diverter opto cam that drives the ball diverter mine is completely missing. (Black part pictured on top of opto board) hope someone has one or knows where i can get one .

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I have a related question. I find sometimes my machine doesn't pay the Stop and Go award. It also seems to turn the Space Station more than is needed. eg. I hit the left VUK, it kicks the ball, then turns the station, then realised it's lined the right ramp up to the now occupied dock and turns the station again.

I assume these two things mean that the optos either aren;t always lined up right, or the interrupter is possibly borked?

Looking for a correct apron anyone have one to sell turns out mine doesnt have the outlane kicker hole.so ready to play this thing !

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I know a guy in Europe that's got one. PM me if you want details.

Speaking of kickbacks, the manual says 24-900, but it always seems to be a 23-800 which would be slightly stronger. Thoughts?

Clean your optos with some rubbing alcohol on a q tip

Stronger is most always better in my book

I get some of the same behaviors. My diverter seems to get 'confused' sometimes. I can lock a ball from the left kicker, and the ramp will stay. Then If I get another ball up there, it will rotate 180, landing in the same spot, and kick the 2nd ball to the same lock. Only way to lock both at that point is to go up the ramp.

likewise, sometimes the Stop-n-go award is awarded from kicking from the upper left and not the ramp. No Idea what causes it.

Anytime I have had the ramp not 'align' cleanly and block the ball it has always been a loss of 12V power for me. The connectors on that 12V line are really temperamental on my machine.

Cool, can’t wait to see it

Candidate for a 3d printed copy?

That looks great.

I want one, so much more crisp looking!

I would say it could be done if someone had one to copy i dont have one at all or any means of 3d printing

I actually started working on this piece awhile back. I'll look for it and finish it, then 3D print it and see how it comes out.

Brian

That looks great! Maybe print some screw hole tabs on it?

That would be awesome when one becomes avalible i will deffinatly buy!

And it's printing. I'll need you as a tester so I'll send it with your space station plastic.

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Awesome!! Sounds great

Question for all of you. Sometimes when I dock the ball in the right dock, a new ball does not go into the shooter lane immediately. Most times, it is a 10 second delay, however, today it didn't come out and eventually kicked the other ball out of the right dock. Any thoughts on why this could be happening? Thanks All!

Sound like the switch in the right dock might need to be cleaned and or adjusted.
Maybe normally taking a few seconds to register and now not registering at all, and going into ball search.
I would start by checking that switch.

Tyring to sort out some hack jobs on witing and fix the the right way could someone post a pic of connector j1 and connector j8 on the power supply board i want to be sure i have all wires in the correct places thanks also is there any reason i couldnt use a bally style conncetor and pins on j8 as i do not have the correct .156 idc in my parts stock but do have .156 trifuricon

If the switch is clean and adjusted correctly, then look for a pink quick disconnect connector on this switch. If it has one then cut it off and solder the wire direct to the switch.

Does the power wiring diagram at the back of the manual have the required information?

I have a printed out version and its not the best and too small to see

thanks GRUMPY and RCA1 I'll look into it. It seemed like it only did it when the machine was cold. Gonna vent slightly. Just got done putting space station back together after a good cleaning and playfield protector install and now the micro switch on the #2 lane on the mini-playfield broke!

Spent most the day measuring out and nudging just about every part of the design. I’ve settled on wanting to use traditional lane guides. The reality of bending and cutting a bunch of metal guides sank in and I quickly came to my senses.

In order to make that work I needed to make more room for the lanes width. Slightly changed the angle on the right side of the playfield, but I’m pretty sure it should not interfere with anything.

Once this upper stuff gets resolved I need to make a lower layer that will support all the hardware...

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Excellent work.

From the copy on ipdb.org:
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I recently saw that pinball center has the space station repro speaker/display pannels but will not ship here to usa anymore :/ any one know a way around this?

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I did mail forwarding from them for unique parts for my Congo that only they have and it worked out fine for me didn't really cost that much extra either.

My targets under the ramp take a beating and are always going crooked, so I made up some Williams target splints to straighten them. Standing up proud now! These babies press together tightly. I needed a wrench to snap them together. I also created a grove for a zip tie to keep them extra secure. No glue, bonus!
I was going to print them in green or blue, just to spruce em up a bit. I think I still will.
Brian

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That's really clever, you gonna sell them now? I'll take a set.

They look great @bpull. Is the model file available somewhere?

Hi Paul,

Let me test them out for a few and figure out a price too. I want to make sure they work good before I offer them.

Brian

I’m in for a set as well when you get them ship shape (see what I did there)

Sounds like a plan.

So I tried out some new plastic that was at least 'advertised' as PETG plastic, which from what I've read has a higher strength against impacts, and less likely to crack.

Might be a junk product, or maybe I wasn't clear on what I was buying, but this stuff seems more brittle than the acrylic. One of the guard rails snapped when I pushed it down on some duct tape to remove the protective sticker paper. And I'm not super thrilled at the lack of transparency...

I ordered all the hardware needed for the Piece (metal posts, bayonets, 3 micro switches with mounting brackets, etc...) They should be here later in the week, and I'll finally assemble a working prototype.

Going to do some testing on this PETG plastic, but also going to cut another clear acrylic and do some testing on that too. I really like the way the acrylic looked, and this other stuff doesn't seem to be any stronger anyway.

EDIT: oh, and the hardware for this playfield came to a lot more money than I had been expecting. Roughly $80 worth of stuff for each playfield. 0_0 Pinball aint cheap.

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