That’s amazing - coming together nicely! Mines in good shape, but I think blue would still look best!

Nice work so far.

Original blue prob best ...but it would be interesting to see how it looked in red or even green

None of the test points are on the GI circuits. You need to look at the 6v AC feed which goes from the transformer in to the bottom right corner of the power supply board via 2 yellow and 2 yellow white wires, that feeds straight out of 3J8 to the 4 fuses on the right side of the backbox. All the connectors on the GI circuits have the habit of cooking themselves, both the two on the power supply board and those on the interconnect boards and the GI relay boards. The GI relay boards also have a habit of cracking their solder joints.

Are you having issues with one particular strand or just various sockets on in various places?

Test fit the cardboard proxy today. Mostly fit. A few adjustments to be made and I think I’ll be ready for an acrylic proxy.

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Woo Hoo! Finally got my Space Station up and running again today after tear down. I didn't go as hard core as some. Rebuilt the pops, flippers, cleaned, added new rubbers, Leds and a playfield protector. I chose to leave the mylar on.

After about an hour of playing, hit 3.5MM! I recorded the high score song (initials times out, so it is blank).

Count me in for a new mini playfield when it happens.

Chris

Nice work! The only downside I can see of the layered back section is that the bulbs might be awkwardly exposed?

I do that too...

https://www.instagram.com/p/Be4hGxdnRWq/

That light show never gets old.

That is one, but having the EOS blue wire on #3 is a dead short every time you push the flipper button.

This sometimes will get you into trouble if someone has done it incorrectly before. Best thing is to learn how to do this correctly one time and either remember it or write it down somewhere for later access.

I would recommend understanding how the primary power winding and secondary hold winding work and then where the EOS switch and capacitor wires go will make perfect sense.

If you look at the diagram on top of the coil:
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Power comes in on terminal 3. So where does the ground go? If we attach the ground to 2, the primary winding will always be used. That's not what we want so ground must be terminal 1.

At this stage, with no EOS attached, electricity will only flow from 3 to 1 via the secondary. The idea of the EOS is that when it is closed the electricity should travel through the primary winding and when it is open, the power should travel through the secondary winding.

There's 3 possible places you could attach the EOS:

3+1 : Power will flow directly from +50v to the EOS and then ground, blowing the fuse
3+2 : Power can only reach ground via the secondary coil
2+1 : Power will flow through the primary then the EOS to ground when the EOS is closed, and via the secondary when the EOS is open.

The capacitor is to protect the EOS, not the coil, and is always directly attached to the EOS.

If your coil doesn't have a diagram on the top, the terminals with fat wires are the ends of the primary winding and the terminals with the thin wires are the ends of the secondary winding.

have you checked fuses?

Fuses are the simplest things to check and a great starting place for issues. Remove the fuse to test from machine as sometimes you may get a false reading when checking it installed. Set your digital multi meter to the continuity or sound icon then place one lead on each side, you should get tone.

I don think Space Station has any under the PF. Most should be in the head unit, back box. People call them different things! Watch some videos on DMM testing will help with all those little capacitor, diodes, transistors. Should be something on pinside somewhere too.

Having a dead short like you had may have reset the settings in the ram. You might have to reset it to free play.

I believe there is one fuse under the playfield,
left side.

IMG_20180221_2049147 (resized).jpg

Could also be the tilt maybe?

Check your tilt bob and wiring , you want to be sure the tilt is not engaged

Also check the slam switches, I think there’s one under the playfield and one on the coindoor

Sure is! Dang it’s been awhile since I had the hood up on Space Station!

Progress. I used clear for some of the rails because I could not fit them all on a 12x12” blue. But I kinda like the mix of plastics. I’ll have to see what it looks like on the machine tomorrow.

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That looks amazing!

Great job! I can’t wait to see all of the switches and bulbs installed and working

Wow!

WOW!!! I will deff be in on one of these. Even though I don't need one I would still install this. It looks way cooler!

Looks GREAT! That gives it a more modern flair. The drain hole has always been a weak spot, can you add another layer of material around the bottom of it?

Very nice. Looks great.

Better than the original IMO!

Holy cow ..... that playfield looks awesome !!

Where do I sign up !

Yeah, with the layered structural beams that thing somehow LOOKS like it belongs on a space station! Great job! I wonder if/how the clear acrylic will pipe the bulb lighting through the back wall? Could be an interesting effect.

My original is in decent to nice shape, but I'd consider this one an upgrade. I hope the lane guides work out well!

I’d defiantly be in for one if they are going to be produced!

Also, my board no’s trashed. It’s time to replace it. Aftermarket or try to find a repaired original?

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That looks really nice

Thanks for all the positive feedback guys! I will definitely be re-enforcing the drain hole, and exploring possibilities with lane guides and other hardware.

I threw the prototype on the machine and all the support holes aligned up good! Now I need to work on getting all the hardware hooked up. When it comes time to sell these I’ll let Everyone know how.

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That looks awesome id deffinatly buy one , my machine has a black upper pf (prototype machine from what i gather that would look way better and match my new blue ramp!

^^^ same. My black playfeild works and is clean but it seems out of place

What can you do about the numbers 1, 2 and 3 on the back rail?

look very closely @ post #2175

What are the size (#6,#8?) and length of the 2 bolts on the front curved piece?

Is that a recess I see for the numbers that light up? Would they be laser etched and glued in?

I'm going to try that first. I should be able to cut some numbered pieces and insert them, though I'm a little worried that will create a 'scratch point' where the ball is going to hit those pieces at a slightly different angle than the rest of the rail, and over time cause damage. There's a few other options though. I could use a thin cover over the whole rail, that has printed or laser etched graphics on it. The original has a printed piece of paper. I want to go more durable than that, I'm imagining a thin 1" strip of clear plastic with a printed graphic on the back side of it, like all the other playfield plastics. It would be pulling the look of the upper playfield more in line with the original artwork on the rest of the machine. I could probably also cut a thin clear to use on the 'top' section with a printed graphic as well. I'll have to draw some concepts.

My other option is to do something new with it. I did a 'stroke' pass on the prototype playfield that etched a 1-2-3 on the surface of the playfield above the switch lanes. Its kinda hard to see in the photos. But I did it to see if the ball direction would be effected by it. I'm going to try cutting those shapes out, then cutting inserts of another color (probably red) and putting them into the playfield so the numbers are visible. Then moving the lights from behind the rails, to underneath the red 1-2-3's.

I did the insert trick on my Ghostbusters airball protector and really like how it turned out. The surface is basically perfectly flat and it has been holding up really well so far:

https://www.instagram.com/p/Be6C7O6gp9-/?hl=en&taken-by=scarybeardpro

I have become pretty familiar with my game and manage to deal well with most issues. But I am stumped currently hoping for some suggestions.

While I was sailing in Latin America for several weeks my wife was playing every night and managed to get very good (I'm glad she likes pinball) As a result she has managed to rack up all four high scores on the leader board all over 6,000,000 and one over 7,000,000. I have the game set at 5 balls per game but those are hard scores to beat any how. And now she is doing it on my Congo....

So I want to reset the high scores so my friends can enjoy the achievement too. But I have gone through the game adjustment menus and can not figure it out. Do I need to change ad13-17?

Any help on how to reset high scores will be appreciated although she will be pissed.

How about cutting slots in the top blue plastic above each of the 1,2,3 bulbs and inserting a clear or colored etched piece so it almost comes in contact with the bulb under it and have it stick up about a inch or so with the number on it. Being that close to the bulb those numbered etched pieces would act as light pipes and light them up real nice. Just a thought.

That blue upper is no joke, nice work!!!

Came down to do some laundry, popped it on for a quick game, and set a new record on my machine! ajfclark seriously man, thanks for helping me get the game right!

You know, I’m already picturing what matching pop bumpers might look like ... thoughts???

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Press and hold the high score reset switch for 5 seconds. It's located on the inside of the coin door.

What are you planning to do with the lane divider/lamp shields ?