Yeah, just unplug it and replug it.

Sure you could.

Can someone here help me , I'm trying to figure out what switch is needed for the right slingshot? I need a new one currently and can't seem to find it online.

The opto board is at the very far end of the cable from the backbox. I would expect the lane change switches and everything else to register regardless of what the opto board was up to.

The game will run without the opto board connected, if you unplug 6 pin connector underneath the playfield at the back right. the game will power on fine - the space station will spin a little longer than usual until it figures out the board isn't there.

Actually, that's a good question, how long does your space station spin for at power up? 1-2 seconds or a good deal longer than that? I'd guess longer, because that's what it does when the space station opto switches aren't closing.

I'm starting to think it's an MPU problem though (Q42 and friends) and perhaps it might be better to get someone like GRUMPY to take a look?

The scoring switch or the activation? Both are listed on page 50 of the manual. #63 and #64 are the scoring switches sw-1a-122. The activation switches are listed in the note at the bottom of the page as A-48340H/B-8734 w/RC.

Neither seem to be readily available from my quick look around.

Correct, the opto board shouldn't affect the other switches. The station spins and doesn't line up because the optos aren't reporting the position back to the MPU or they are an the MPU can't 'hear' it. Given that the whole column is missing, I suspect the latter. It's probably worth checking the integrity of the EOS switches, the nylon separators, etc and making sure there's no way the EOS switch or wiring can touch the switch matrix switch. I know bad things can happen if they ever touch as the switch matrix doesn't like getting 50v.

Missing a whole column is not something I've had to debug before but I'm happy to muddle along a bit if you are. The relevant part of the MPU schematic is the top left corner of the 75 page of the pdf on ipdb:
pasted_image (resized).png
The Switch Matrix Drives on the left are the columns. ST(robe)7 is column 7, 1J8-8 - Q42 - Pin 12 U40.

First thing I'd do is check continuity from useful point through the IDC connector, say the collector of Q42 through to the green/violet wire on the playfield. It'd be awesome if it was that simple.

I'd do a visual check on that area of the board too.

I'd look at the voltage that point with a DMM (or a logic probe if you've got one) and see if it's pulsing the same and the similar point on a working column's transistor like Q47. Likewise pin 12 of U40 vs say pin 7.

Q-42 is bad and it was hit by high voltage from somewhere. Finding where the high voltage is coming from is the hard part. Most likely a lane change switch is causing this.

No need to check voltages as the visual test shows that Q42 is FUBAR. It needs to be replaced (and potentially other components in the path), but as grumpy suggests before it's replaced you need to ensure there's no connectivity between the high voltage and the switch matrix.

The lane change switches on the flippers are the most likely candidate. The EOS switch should be electrically isolated from the lane change switch. Check that the nylon spacer is intact. Check that the tabs of the switches haven't been bent. Check with a meter that there's no connectivity between the two switches for the whole range of motion of the flippers. Etc

I'd just be looking for a lack of continuity. There should be no connection between the EOS switch and the lane change switches. The fault suggests that at some stage there was.

I'd use my eyes too, but I'd rely on a meter measuring continuity or resistance more. There might be a path between them that's not obvious visually. eg through the base plate or something. Hopefully it's something really obvious like the nylon triangle spacer is missing or that the tabs between the outer leaf of the EOS and the inner leaf of the lane change switch are too close. The spacer should look something like this:
pasted_image (resized).png

If soldering isn't your thing, I'd find something to practise on first.

Lots of learning kits on line. I bought a lot of those little radio shack toys and gave them to the kid and fam after I was done with them. Actually building the radio one is really rewarding!

If I know the part is fried, I usually:

• cut the legs close to the body of the part
• desolder the remaining leg parts
• clean up with solder sucker
• fit new part and solder

The parts breakdown of the System 11b MPU on page 38 of the manual lists Q1, Q40, Q42-Q49 and Transistor, NPN, 2N3904, TO-92.

This agrees with the schematic above which notes the transistors are 2N3904.

So this one: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/2N3904

I wouldn't order them from Marco, but that's partially because I'm on the other side of the world. I'd use a regular electronics supplier like rs-online as they are cheaper (but you often have to order a bunch): https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/bipolar-transistors/7390442/

Yup. I started desoldering old boards for my grandpa in the holidays. My first assembly projects were little Dick Smith funways projects. Wireless fm microphones, electronic dice, etc.

Activation. Well that sucks for me..

Hey all,

Need some advice. I’m a newbie. Space station is my first semi-restore (not doing a full teardown). I bought a playfield protector. I was hoping to polish the Mylar and put the protector on. I bought the headlight restoration kit vid recommends and did the steps he mentioned. Mylar doesn’t look much better. Any advice? Maybe just go all the way and remove the Mylar? Thanks!

Try the Treasure Cove polishing kit, it attaches to your drill, worked pretty good on the sling mylar on my Jackbot but it did take time.

Thanks MustangPaul looks like the treasure cove polishing kit is sold out (at least, I can't find it anywhere).

You tried here. http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/polishing-kit.htm

Anyone have a good translite avalible to sell? Also looking for the opto cam for the rotating ball guide, thanks

What is the rotating ball guide? Or do you mean the station divertor?

You can find most of those parts at marco specialties. Is your station not turning properly?

Yes under the spinning space station ball diverter . Marco nor any other parts house i have contacted has it avalible

6BD68750-E480-4DCF-9CFA-683056020F4E (resized).png

I am about to tackle my first flipper rebuild for my Space Station. I am doing the rebuild because my right flipper is weak and after looking at it, whoever did the soldering did a horrible job (none of the soldering is smooth) as well as the capacitor wire broke.

I ordered the Flipper rebuild kit Williams 1988-1991 that fits this machine. If anyone has any tips or advice, please share. Thanks!

Everything you need is here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

Use a WPC flipper spring instead of that conical spring that comes with the kit:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-11-to-wpc#post-1798005

I also agree with wpc upgrade. One of the best upgrades there are for sys11 games

Rather than adding a screw into the playfield, I drill a small hole in the flipper bracket as per vid1900 's thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers#post-284661

Trivial to do, looks better and makes the spring pull in the same plane as the flipper plunger.

I'll answer the second question first.

It looks like it's previously kamikazed itself and then replaced.

If you look at the second page of the manual, there's a list of solenoids and which transistors are their drivers:
Space Station Solenoid Table (resized).png
Q77 is a special solenoid #5, the left jet bumper. Special Solenoids are a bit special, in both complementary and derogatory senses of the word. They can be controlled by the CPU, and they are also controlled by a direct switch that comes in through 1J18. Because there's a single fuse for multiple coils that might fire almost at the same time (eg all the jets) if a single switch gets stuck on, the coil, driver, etc are all candidates to burn. It's enough of a problem that people sometimes add individual fuses for the special solenoids and this guy made a nice board to hold them that I keep meaning to buy: http://nvram.weebly.com/repair--conversion-kits.html

Why was it designed that way? I guess the original intent was that things that needed super snappy response would be Specials. As there's a direct switch, the coil is activated without waiting for the CPU to see the switch is close and fire the coil. Later, they realised the delay of a switch hit to the CPU triggering the coil wasn't long enough to outweigh the problems and through the System 11B machines the use of 1J18 was phased out. Special solenoids still exist in System 11C boards, but the switches to 1J18 are never connected. If you hold down a switch on a System 11C special, the coil fires once and then the CPU ignores it.

My #5 was cooked when I got my #space station so I wonder if it's a common fault with the way the playfield is setup - perhaps that post rubber that gets chewed out eventually holds the switch down.

Go through the switch test, tap every switch in the column to test. I think that'll make the dot go away.

Hi Everyone,

I'm also looking for a new translite for my space station. So if anybody knows where I can get one, it would be helpful

Thanks

I'd clear the high scores.
A) it'll be a different game now
B) with no lane change you couldn't have put your initials in anyway
C) any excuse to hear that tune and get the light show

My mini playfield just cracked, or more accurately, re-cracked. The plastic drop-down hole separated on the left-hand side.
The part came to me broken and repaired with what looks like clear scotch tape. The bottom of the loop is actually completely separated and held in place on both sides by clear tape. There is a small ridge on the side of the break that looks like it could be epoxied back together, but I’m wondering if there is something I could do to reinforce along the outside edge without it being too unsightly.
Is there something clear that I could run along the outside edge to hold it together that isn’t clear tape?
I’m pretty sure finding a new mini playfield is out of the question.

8CC2EAB0-85CE-4867-B220-F3F49394AA2F (resized).jpeg

Can you get a better close up of it?

I use this stuff to glue and repair plastics. Basically for acrylic but works on most plastics. It is very thick (thicker than syrup) and dries clear strong and fast....like don't leave the cap off the tube fast. It can be found at most plastic stores and some hardware stores.

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=sr_1_1

I have not seen a big difference with system 11. On your Space Station, can you hit the right ramp with the right flipper with this upgrade?