Yes and yes.

They can go in either way as resistors aren't polarised. Mount them slightly off the board to allow air flow for cooling.

The tolerance % is the allowed difference from the marked resistance to the actual resistance. eg. A resistor marked 100 ohm 5% could actually be 95-105 ohm. If it was 10% it could measure anywhere between 90-110 ohm.

A tighter tolerance is fine, just slightly more expensive.

anyone have the exact color details/info for the cabinet colors? Also, what kind of paint did you use? I am hoping to do a color match in a spray can with stencils. thanks!

I used Krylon rattle cans (they have the absolute best spraying tip) , easy... red, blue, white, satin black. Looks amazing

Pics?

Thanks for the info - did you use specific colors of red/blue/white/black that were matched to the original or did you approximate with what was available off the shelf? I agree with @ajfclark, pics would be great!

More importantly, where to get the stencils.

Does Pinballpimp make them?

crazy enough, I got them on craigslist in Denver. Lucky I guess.

I got what was off the shelf, there's choices, but, space station is pretty straight forward... Literally... (satin) Black Cabinet, white, blue, then red (or green if youre in that club) I dont remember if blue was first, or white was first, your stencils should come with instructions

pic... here ya go

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-station-club-members-only/page/10#post-2392830

Thanks for the details! I saw that picture earlier in the thread, it looks great!

thank you! Ive stenciled several games now, it never gets old, always satisfying to pull the stencil off to reveal the art underneath...

tip: 1st light Spray, let sit 2 minutes, then spray a little thicker, let sit 1 minute, repeat until fully covered, then be sure to not let the final spray sit more than 10 minutes before you pull the stencil, but dont pull it off right away, you want the paint to be slightly gooey so the stencil wont pull off chunks of the paint with it, or youll be touching it up.... if you do have to touch up; get an artists paint brush, take a paper plate and spray the plate with the paint, and use the artists brush to touch up the issue. it will look great!

also, its easier to apply the stencil flat, and easier to paint with the cabinet up right (normal orientation), and easier to pull the stencil with the cabinet upright.

let the colors FULLY dry before applying the next stencil, sometimes takes a full 36 hours depending on the thickness of the spray

ALSO FOR THE RED!!! give it a spray of pink first, then do red over pink, otherwise your red will be dark and too thick. I WISH I had known to do this before I stenciled mine

I just got one of these,yay!

Is a replacement upper playfield available anywhere?

Wow! Thanks a bunch for the tips!!!

Nope, they have to be injection molded, that's the problem. Any Pinsider own an injection molding company?

Has anybody reached out to PPS and asked them if they'd look into running them?
Brian

I haven't watched this yet, but Colorado Pinball streamed Space Station (or tried to and the internet crapped out so they uploaded it later): https://www.twitch.tv/videos/216829732

Yeah we had issues with my internet crapping out right when we were starting the stream.

All good. I live in the land of expensive, crap internet so I totally understand.

I've asked Rick with no response, drop him a line, that would show more interest. I imagine he'll say that they can't find the mold but give it a try anyhoo.

Morning Everyone,

Machine has been working great since i was able to fix the space station motor and the issue with the balls not staying dock. But a new issue has popped up which shouldnt be to difficult to fix but of course, want to ask any advice from the experts before I tackle this issue (as it will be my first time doing it).

The right flipper is lame and very weak. On Monday, when I looked at it, I was able to get it working by making the right flipper button "switch" make better contact (apologies that I do not know what everything is called yet and the correct terminology). That fixed it and gave the flipper more power but was not as strong as the left flipper and right flipper button had to be hit right in the middle for it to work (couldn't hit the side of the button and get it to make contact).

But last night, the flipper was barely working and does not have enough power to hit the ball anywhere. So my first step is to clean the switch that i looked at yesterday but wanted to check what is the best way to clean these switches? I want to make sure I do not do more damage when I am trying to fix it.

I am guessing it is more than just the switch causing issues and probably going to order a new flipper kit and go that route to make sure I fix the problem and also to learn how to do flipper replacement since i have yet to do that.

Does anyone have any guidance, suggestions, or ideas?

When mine did that, it was due to the metal guide at the back of the right flipper. It was preventing the flipper from operating correctly. I just had to move the guide slightly away and tighten it down. I would check that first.

Dennis

Unfortunately, I am not exactly sure what you are referring to when you say the "metal guide" but inside the cabinet, the switch the touches the flipper button is tight and makes contact. But i will keep looking at it and see if there is an easy fix before i really get into it. Thanks for the suggestion.

This is on top of the playfield. There is a metal guide that the ball strikes near the right flipper. My guide was slightly loose and touching the backend of the flipper. You need some clearance around the back of the flipper.

Ok, thanks for clarifying. I am pretty sure i know what you are talking about and will look at it when i get home to see if that will fix the issue.

There are differences of opinion on how to clean switches. Many suggest to use a course piece of card stock and pull through lightly depressed contacts. I like using contact cleaners (but never spray directly into the machine) Dont use abrasives like files or sand paper on this era of game.

It is recommended that one rebuilds the entire flipper mechanism on any newly acquired machine. examine the prawl (linkage between coil plunger and flipper bat) for wear, the EOS switch needs proper adjustment too. Last week I pulled my coil sleeves and cleaned them and that made a big difference.

You can find everything you need here

Vid's Guide to Upgrading/Rebuilding Flippers

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

Thanks for the advice and the link. I will watch this when I get home tonight and see what i can do.

There's a saying that a picture is worth 1000 words. When asking for help this is definitely true and gets around a lot of the problems with terminology. I'll try to find some.

First things first - does the flipper plunger move into the coil freely when you push it in by hand? Does it feel the same as the other flipper? If they feel different, it could be a mechanical issue, not and electrical one.

If it's electrical...

There's two switches for each flipper. The cabinet switch, and the End of Stroke (EOS) switch on each flipper. If either of these is burned, pitted, not making contact, etc your flipper will be weak.

Cabinet switch:
The cabinet switch is easy to check as you can see it when you've lifted the playfield.

• Are the screws tight?
• Is the capacitor (usually brown disk) still attached to the switch?
• When you press the button do the contacts meet before the button is all the way in? The contacts should rub together slightly when the button is fully pressed. If they don't, carefully bend the shorter arm of the switch closer. If you're adjusting the switch, use an adjustment tool close to the switch stack (either a proper tool or the blade blade screwdriver).
• Are the contacts really burnt and pitted? If they are, you can try burnishing or sanding them as they are high voltage contacts (never file low voltage ones). It's often better to replace them if they are burnt.
• If you have a multimeter, it's useful to measure the resistance across the switch when it's closed. It should be really low. If it's not, it's sapping power.
• Is the plastic button firmly attached to the cabinet, not broken, etc (check against the other button)

Here's my flippers which work, but could use rebuild:
left right

EOS switch:
The EOS is located on the flippers. There's two switches on each flipper. The switch closest to the coil and directly connected to the coil is the EOS switch. This is a high voltage switch. The second switch which is stacked with the triangular nylon spacer is the lane change switch. It is low switch connected to the switch matrix. Do not allow these to short together or the switch matrix won't work any more.

• The EOS switch is on the flipper and should only be open when the flipper is fully plunged and it should be closed the rest of the time.
• When you press the flipper plunger in do the contacts open just before the plunger is all the way in? The contacts should rub together slightly when the switch closes. If they don't, carefully adjust the switch. If you're adjusting the switch, use an adjustment tool close to the switch stack (either a proper tool or the blade blade screwdriver).
• You should see the sliding of the contacts past each other as the switch is opened and closed.
• Are the contacts really burnt and pitted? If they are, you can try filing or sanding them as they are high voltage contacts (never file low voltage ones). It's often better to replace them if they are really burnt.
• If you have a multimeter, it's useful to measure the resistance across the switch when it's closed. It should be really low. If it's not, it's sapping power.

Does anyone have any custom apron cards?

I like these, but I don't remember where I found them... Somewhere in this thread probably:
instruction-cards.jpg
[edit: I use the thread gallery function to hunt for things like this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-station-club-members-only?gallery

The cards above came from this post from Chosen_S https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-station-club-members-only/page/11#post-2427031

There's more from goingincirclez here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-station-club-members-only/page/22#post-3086556 ]

It's posts like this that build this hobby. A+

Anyone else have issues with the post below the left jet getting chewed?
pasted_image (resized).png

Is my post bent?

It may be old and dried out, replace wit a new one and see how long it lasts. Can't tell from the picture if it's bent, take it out and check it out. The one behind it looks bad too.

pasted_image (resized).png pasted_image (resized).png

From the looks of the first picture that's an original 30 year old rubber. Change it out and your good for another 30 years. Probably the whole game need to be re-rubbered.

Sorry, got a call while I was adding that post and forgot to add the text.

The ring sits against the post and there's a fair bit of front to back play in it so I guess every time the ball hits the top side of it the ring jams down that rubber. Weirdly the balls eye view on ipdb has a wide rubber on that post (http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2261&picno=9154&zoom=1) which would surely get chewed out? Dave Santoto's page has a good shot of the post with a sleeve on it, but the ring seems to be chewing that out too: http://spacestation.santoro.com/files/2012/10/P1020885.jpg
pasted_image (resized).png

Hopefully something like Cliffy sleeves will stay out of the way of that ring? Maybe a different post would work better there?

I do plan to change out all the rubbers. The whole thing will be stripped at some stage in the next few months as I'd really like to try to level all the inserts. It's hard to see , but a few are a bit above the surface:
pasted_image (resized).png
When I've got it all apart, I'll make a list, check it twice and then order a bunch of stuff.

Yeah that game needs some TLC.

Thanks for posting this! I had the exact same problem after replacing the rubber sleeve and was wondering if something's wrong or if maybe there shouldn't be a rubber sleeve on that post at all.

Good to know that this is a more common issue. Maybe the post is just a tad too close to the pop bumper? I recently replace the rubber sleeve with one that is a bit narrower, hoping it will avoid the issue (don't know yet if that worked).

I'm wondering if a different post style might work better. For instance, Radical uses this and the ring never seems to hit the rubber (though perhaps it's just further away):
20180113_062714 (resized).jpg

That post on my game had a tapered top. I reused it on my original shopout a few years back. Although just recently I changed my rubber posts to all white and decided to fabricate my own tapered post sleeve. I mounted a sleeve on a bolt with nut chucked in my drill press and worked it with a fine file. It came out ok with my soft rubber sleeve but I plan to try making another with a harder Cliffy sleeve.

Here is a pic of my old one. I tend to save a lot of old parts.

64C296D3-A973-4637-AF5B-53EC682CE028 (resized).jpeg

They are wired straight through so as long as both 4 pins connectors at the top match, it'd work.

Mine are:

1 brown
2 white brown
3 green
4 white green

20180122_133043 (resized).jpg

Most welcome. Do you know what switch 37/top left roll under does? I can't figure it out.

What are the switch errors?

What's wrong with your Lane change switches?

pasted_image (resized).png
I think you are missing a whole column - 7. I'll just go have a look and double check how that is wired.

Given you are missing the whole column it might be something as simple as a disconnected wire - especially since it happened since moving the machine. The column 7 switches all connect to a green wire with violet. I'd start by looking at the MPU board. 1J8 is the switch columns. Pin 8 (counting right to left, pin 1 is marked on the right) should have a green/violet wire attached:
pasted_image (resized).png

If it doesn't have a wire there, that's your problem.

If it looks ok, with the power off, reseating the connector may help.

If there is a wire there, and reseating the connector didn't help, it's probably worth testing the MPU board. With the power off, disconnect 1J8 and 1J10. Get a diode and an alligator lead. Clip one end of the alligator to the problem column (1J8-8) and the other to the banded end of the diode. Power up, go in to switch edges and tap the unbanded end of the diode to the pins of 1J10. You should see switch closures register.
pasted_image (resized).png

If you don't see switch closures, the problem is in the MPU board. Hopefully not.

If the MPU is ok, the issue is either the connector itself or in the playfield.

If you're hunting for a issue in the wiring, the green/violet heads from the connector housing to the back left corner, towards the flippers, then loops back up the right side of the playfield. There should be two green/violet wires attached to the lane change switch on the right flipper (56). There's also a jumper from that to the left flipper's lane change switch (55) - on my machine it's yellow. From the right flipper the wire goes to the lower 10 point contact (54), then the upper 10 point contact (50) and then to a molex plug that heads up to through the playfield to the space station board with opto switches 52 and 53.

I would use my multimeter to trace that continuity and go from there.