Spraying the white here in a few minutes. It looks so hack. Kinda embarrassing really considering we have a full fledge body shop and paint booth as our family business. Instead we are just doing it in the workshop at home.

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This is way more work than I wanted to put into this game

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Too bright? Basically just grabbed a white off the shelf and figured it would have been good. Now it's time to do the small tedious touch ups and want for my dad to set the inserts.

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Thanks but no, if anything I'll bring it up to you. No reason to spend your gas and time and add that to the bill. I'll have to get it up to you. Look what I found on the bottom first row of these transistor resistors, I think that's what they are.....the green fuzzies on one leg. To I even want to know what's on the back of the board.

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Since I had to paint over the "G" marks where the green bulbs went, I decided instead of rewriting the g I would change it up a little. Thoughts on this?

Keep in mind this is waaaay more work than I wanted to put into this game. It's not going to perfect by any means but it should be a good player. I might even get into some cabinet work.

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I checked all in the bb and they are all fine.

That looks fine.

But it will look soooooooo much better when your done.

This is going to need to be repaired and cleaned.

Curious... the lamp sockets? Are you replacing them or are you putting bulbs in them before you spray?... looks like the sockets have paint in them, this will be pretty difficult to clean out, it can be done with a dremel and stone attachment if you absolutely have to

Yup.

I was very hesitant at first but after reading on vids PF restoration guide it says just put old bulbs in the sockets before you spray. It looks like just the top edge has a paint on them which isn't going to be a big deal to clean out. I'm most likely going to Drexel them out anyways because a few of them had a little corrosion anyways.

Which fuses are for the left and right gi?

The fuses should be a block of 4 fuses in the back box on the right side board about half way up.

On my game it was the one closest to the outside of the box. I didn't have left side gi at all, and while I was checking fuses i wiggles the connectors to the fuse and the lights came on

Found some goodies today while looking through old parts...

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Score.

Since I don't have the space station toy that's supposed to be on top of the lane diverter, and because I don't really like how it looks anyway, I'm going to try and get around to building something custom like this. Made a quick block out for the screws and footprint, and a rough sketch of what I have in mind.

Probably hook up its LEDs to the circuits under the table, or I may try and get fancy and get an arduino nano under there to do fun animations when stuff happens on the table. like have the 3 support beams flash in order right to left when the ball is going to be fired up that tube, and flash some green lights during multiball or something.

I'd also vacu-form some domes that match my ramp and upper playfield.

In any event. I hope to get around to this at some point:

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I like it, way to think out of the box.
Brian

scarybeard, did you finally fully overcome those lane diverter issues?

Rad man, I'm following so keep posting with your progress. I'd be in for one if you chose to make more.

That is a sweet idea! Keep the progress coming !

Dozer: I did! Game is 100% now. It's actually weird to play it fully functional finally.

How did you fix your issue? My lane diverter still doesn't get its placement right about half of the time.

I'm also interested in this if you decide to make more of those stations!

Hi friends! Recently picked up a space station, long on the want list. last year i purchased on of the translucent blue repro ramps that were made for a short time from a pinside member who had one unused NIB.

I went to install it, excited for the upgrade. Aside from needing to file downa couple of sharp edges imo, i ran into an issue.

As you can see from the pics, the ramp steel flap is far wider in the stock ramp. the holes are not aligned the same. OK, i could drill, but due to the narrow width, the ball has a good chance of striking the side edge of the ramp, failing to make it up and inevitably cracking the ramp.

So i could swap flaps and redrill the repro ramp, right? Wrong. the concavity of the repro ramp's inner walls do not allow enough width to do so.

Has anyone else installed one of these? Can you share how you managed, or was I sitting on a known dud of a design for a year in advance?

Thanks for your help!

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Contact Pinsider Freeplay40, he made them.

The issue was that I had a bad connection along one of the 12V wires that end at the opto board. If you follow back the wires at least one of them also goes to the 3-drop target assembly. The drop target was recieving power, but the bad connection did not allow power to continue to the opto board. I replaced the 3-drop target connector, and made a new clean connection to the opto.

if you need help troubleshooting I could give you pics and info on what the connections should be reading voltage wise with pics on where they should lead to. The manual is really unclear on those details.

That would help, this is my first pin so totally learning as I go.

cool I'll take some pics and note on monday when I get back into the office. do you have a multimeter?

Buying one next week is on my list of things to do, my other one recently got pulverized in some house renovation. Ha!

damn, of course I forget to bring my multimeter to work today. Tomorrow for sure. -_- I'll take some pics today though

Ok so here's the first thing I'd check if your lane diverter is not rotating correctly.

Take the lane diverter off, you will probably have to remove the screws holding down the ramp to get it out of there. Underneath is the opto board that senses the position of the lane diverter. The way it works is the two U shaped optical sensors that rise off the board detect whether or not anything is currently inside its U shaped negative space. The lane diverter has a lower lip around half of its edge that goes in between the U shapes when rotated. If both sensors are 'clear' that's position 1, of both sensors are 'blocked' that's position 2.

There's an electrical connector that plugs into the opto board. There should be 5 wires inside that connector. Unplug it and test each port with a multimeter. Set your meter to 20 since you wont be testing anything higher than 12V here.

from left to right, your Ground wire should be the 3rd port. (Black Wire)

(of course the negative handle on my multimeter broke today, so in the picture I'm doing this backwards. normally I'd plug my negative into the Ground port, and use the red positive spike to touch all the other contacts on the connector. )

Once your negative spike is plugged into the 3rd port, touch all the other contacts with the positive side. reading should be as follows:

Left to Right:

1 - 12V
2 - (no wire)
3 - Ground
4 - 5V
5 - 5V
6 - 5V

Those readings will probably not be exactly those values. Mine are more like 11.7V and 4.5V unless its drastically less it shoulden't matter.

Check and see if all those readings are correct on your board.
On my machine the #1 port was not receiving any power. If you have the same problem I can walk you through fixing it.

If all these wires are receiving power properly then there is something wrong with the board itself, or the motor/gears of the diverter.
*also, make sure the lower lip on your diverter piece is not broken off or cracked. A bit left field, but worth checking.

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Can anyone who has the blue repro ramp installed please post some pics - closeups of where the ramp flap meets the pf and how it is aligned plz? The seller has offeree to help but doesnt have one to photo for me. Im struggling to understand how any of you made it work. Thanks for your help!

Here's what mine looks like

*edit: worth noting the ramp does not appear to fit in the original 'slot' in the playfield, and the furthest top right screw at the top of the ramp does not line up to the hole on mine. But it works fine as is.

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Super excited to have joined the Space Station club, and the pinball collecting community in general. I was totally unfamiliar with this table before I got it, but I've found that the simple ruleset and deceptively tough gameplay make this a hidden gem. Couldn't be happier with it, and can't wait to get some LEDs in this to brighten up the dark playfield and generally spruce it up a bit.

Purchased as a clean and fully functional example, only very mild wear.

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Welcome to the club. Your lucky it's in good shape, these games are usually worn good. I put 4 double spot lights and a purple 7 led strip in the center drain on my game. Lit up real nice now.

I actually ordered lights for mine yesterday and used your setup as a guide. I really dig the purple and green effect. Luckily I ordered the 7 led strip.

There are a couple of small wear spots that most folks wouldn't even notice, and some light discoloration from non-mylar areas. Got a couple small bubbles on inserts, but I don't know if I'm going to even attempt to pull it up at some point. Only nagging issue is a noticable buzz from the speaker when it's quiet. Not sure if it's a ground issue or if the speakers are questionable. I've noticed a thread on here about it so I'll give those suggestions a shot.

On my game at the end the music goes on for ages (I'm assuming this is standard) but is there a way to limit this or switch it off? can't find anything in the manual.

There must be a way to limit it. Mine only plays for about a minute and another one I played did the same.

I just timed mine and it goes for 1.34 minuets, if this is just what it is no problem but all the other System 11 games I have just go for 20 seconds or so. Its a bit worse with space station as it has such awesome sounds I have it turned up but when you finish a game its difficult to talk to someone with it pumping the end of game music out for so long and you end up switching it of and on again!

Watched a little Big Daddy, look what I saw in the background of the apartment:

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Cool. Always interesting to see what set designers use in movies.

They chose a great game to display!

Good move. Can you put up a pic please.

See my post #131 and for another lighting tip #136. Since I posted those pictures I swapped out the color matching insert bulbs for th white 2 smd clear dome bulbs and the inserts are much brighter and not color bombed.

Has anyone here put mirror blades in their space station cabinet? I'm thinking about it, but I heard the Williams ones don't necessarily fit the Sustem 11s, so seeing if anyone has experience with what to look ok at.

Not enough room on mine.

Have them on mine. To fit the WPC into a SYS 11 you have to take tin snips and cut out the playfield pivot area. Have them in F14, SOF and Pinbot too. Most SYS 11 have great light effects.

Lucky.

Joined the club today.

Unfortunately it is not working. The power supply has been hacked and I'm open to recommendations.

New supply? Repair?
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