(Topic ID: 218553)

Space Shuttle (Williams) - Switch Issues/Lane Change

By MaxAsh

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by MaxAsh
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There are 55 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 5 years ago

Just picked up a Space Shuttle recently, and it's playing great aside from one issue, which upon research looks like it's all linked together. All of the stand-up switches around the playfield (behind rubbers) and the Lane Change function that keys off the right flipper are non-functional. Looking at the manual, I can see they're all linked to the same Wire and connector (Green-Blue, 1J8 Pin 7).

Looking under the playfield, I found that every single one of the associated switches has a diode on it... but all the diodes are disconnected for some reason (someone cut one side off, so it's just dangling there). Thoughts/suggestions as to why someone might have done that? Maybe they couldn't find a switch issue, so just killed the whole chain? Not sure if I should just reconnected all the diodes or what. Open to suggestions.

Thanks!

Space_Shuttle_SwitchIssue1 (resized).jpgSpace_Shuttle_SwitchIssue1 (resized).jpg
#2 5 years ago

They were probably trying to isolate a switch issue. They might haven't been able to figure it out and moved on without replacing their "diagnostic" steps. Or they said fuck it and left the column out so the game was playable.

Edit: I would hook up the diodes (or replace them) one by one and see if it causes switch issues.

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

They were probably trying to isolate a switch issue. They might haven't been able to figure it out and moved on without replacing their "diagnostic" steps. Or they said fuck it and left the column out so the game was playable

Exactly what i was thinking. Might have a bad chip/transistor/etc for that column. Definitely take a closer look at the mpu/driver board's switch matrix before hooking it all up. Or go with gutz good suggestion and try hooking one up at a time to see if you can isolate a faulty switch or diode. If it were me, I'd just go ahead and replace all 8 diodes with new ones.

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

If it were me, I'd just go ahead and replace all 8 diodes with new ones.

These are too cheap, change all of them and then see where you stand. Especially on a machine you bought and don't know it's history or who's hands were in there.
-Mike

#5 5 years ago

So try replacing all the diodes first and reconnecting, don't mess with the transistor yet? Looks like, from the schematic, 1J8-7 goes to Q12 (2N3904)

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#6 5 years ago

Anyone know what the diode is? Guessing it's generic. Haven't found it in the manual yet

#7 5 years ago

Update: Just hooked up one of the random stand up switches back to its diode. The result during gameplay was that it would award 10 points + something else it shouldn't. In the first test, it awards the far outlane award (15,000). I'm certain of that, because it made the specialized outlane sound effect when I hit the stand up switch.

I disconnected that diode, and tried connecting another one on a different stand up switch. This resulted in being awarded +1110 pts and strangely it triggered the "Start" button function, adding an additional player each time until 4 players were added... all from hitting a standup switch during a 1-Player game. That's weird.

Going to try some more and see what's going on, but clearly that's not correct behavior.

EDIT: I think I'm onto something... though I'm not sure what. So looking back at my post above with the Switch Matrix Table, I can see that the item the re-connected stand-up switches is triggering is actually in the SAME ROW of the chart, but a different column. Examples:

Switch #43 (Mid-L Lwr S/U Sw)... look to the left in the same row of the chart, and you find in Column 1 that Sw#3 is the Credit Button
Switch #44 (Mid-L Upr S/U Sw)... moving to the left, same row, Sw#28 is Left Outlane

I've tested several stand up switches from Column 6, and they all trigger other switches in the same Row of the Matrix that they're not supposed to.

Thoughts?

Space_Shuttle_SwitchIssue2 (resized).jpgSpace_Shuttle_SwitchIssue2 (resized).jpg
#8 5 years ago

Diode is probably a generic 1N4001 or 1N4004 . It seems you have a bad diode that was in the middle of being hunted down and then you bought the machine.
-Mike

#9 5 years ago

Would a bad diode cause that kind of weird behavior?

I've never seen a situation where hitting a switch would cause a completely unrelated switch somewhere else to trigger like that. I thought maybe a short, but this is just odd.

Found a bag of diodes buried in the box of parts he gave me. Various... 1N4002, 4004, 4007. Wondering if he was guessing. Any chance someone with a Space Shuttle could verify for me what I should have on the switches? Also wondering if there was a diode on the right flipper Lane change switch. I don't see one dangling, but something looks weird there to me.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Would a bad diode cause that kind of weird behavior?

Absolutely and electrical gremlins are a PIA to find. Do you have the schematics for this machine?
-Mike

#11 5 years ago

Yup I have everything, so I'm happy to try and figure it out. Guidance welcome though haha.

EDIT: Just found this page, which I think is going to be a huge help troubleshooting. Posting it because others might find it useful:

Matrix Troubleshooting and Theory

Regarding my specific full column failure, jump to : Column Failure Troubleshooting

#12 5 years ago

For reference, here are some pics of the Lane Change switch on the right flipper, as well as some of the stand up targets where the diodes are all disconnected. I'll bring the manual/schematics to work, but won't be able to take pics while I'm there, so figured I'd post them now. Thanks to all for help so far... hopefully we can figure this out. I appreciate all the advice.

Note: I know some stuff is dirty and needs cleaning (and I'll rebuild the flippers too no worries)... just got it the other day

SS_Flipper_LaneChg (resized).jpgSS_Flipper_LaneChg (resized).jpgSS_Flipper_LaneChg2 (resized).jpgSS_Flipper_LaneChg2 (resized).jpgSS_Switch_Diode1 (resized).jpgSS_Switch_Diode1 (resized).jpgSS_Switch_Diode2 (resized).jpgSS_Switch_Diode2 (resized).jpgSS_Switch_Diode3 (resized).jpgSS_Switch_Diode3 (resized).jpg

#13 5 years ago

You certainly do have a project machine. Off my memory the flipper/lane change wiring is wrong, I also see in the pics that the switches are not assembled properly( nubs face in to switch not out) well known factory oops. I will take pics of mine when I get out of work.
-Mike

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

I will take pics of mine when I get out of work.
-Mike

That would be awesome, thanks!

#15 5 years ago

Well this isn't good... I was testing all the switches in that column, and was trying to figure out what switch #45 was "Ramp Lower Sw"... from the switch diagram, it looked like it was under the space shuttle. Sure enough, I flipped over the shuttle, and there's the switch... but the gate that triggers it is missing. Argh.

SS_Shuttle_GateGone (resized).jpgSS_Shuttle_GateGone (resized).jpg
#16 5 years ago

If you need the wire gate I have a extra 1 you can have.
I just would need to find it.

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from wdennie:

If you need the wire gate I have a extra 1 you can have.
I just would need to find it.


-Mike

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from wdennie:

If you need the wire gate I have a extra 1 you can have.
I just would need to find it.

That would be awesome, thanks! I think my switch itself is bad... going to post everything I found in a moment.

#19 5 years ago

Working 100%, looks like this.
-Mike

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#20 5 years ago

Okay, so I did a bunch of testing, and it may not be perfect, but here's what I found so far. I went through and re-connected each diode, one at a time, and tested the switch associated with it. I left all the others disconnected when I did each test. All switches are normally supposed to be 10pt stand up switches with the exception of two, the Flipper Lane Change (SW#41) and Ramp Lower Sw (SW#45) under the shuttle.

Here are the results:

SW#42 - Tilt (I'm guessing other things would trigger too, but Tilt trumps everything scoring-wise)

SW#43 - 10pts + Lower Jet (100pts) + Credit Button + "U" Target (1000pts) = +1110 Pts, Lights "U" and adds another Player (credit button)

SW#44 - 10pts + "T Drop Target" + Left Outlane (15,000pts) = +15010 pts, Starts "stop and score"

SW#45 - "U" Lane (2000pts) + "T" Target (1000pts) + Right Outlane(15,000pts) + Spinner (1000) = 19,000pts, lights U lane and spells T target.
NOTE: As mentioned above, missing gate under shuttle to trigger. I manually activated the switch... switch does not work. I manually crossed the wires that would be normally connected when the switch is triggered, and it caused the following to happen

SW#46 - 10pts + "L" Target (1000) + Ramp Bullseye (10,000) + "S" Lane (2000) + Left Flipper Ret lane (3000) = 16,010pts Lights S lane and spells "L"

SW#47 - Does not function or cause any scoring

SW#48 - Does not function or cause any scoring

Short Version: When I reconnect the diode at a given switch, it activates most of the stuff in its associated switch matrix Row shown in my original post.

#21 5 years ago

Did you test diodes with multimeter before reconnecting? That would have been the perfect time.
-Mike

#22 5 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

Working 100%, looks like this.
-Mike

Okay, based on yours, it looks like mine is just missing the diode between the White-Red and the nearest switch connection tab (which on mine is connected to nothing). Can you tell me what the Diode is by any chance? I might have one. Also, if you could tell me what some of the others are, that would be great. Mine seem to vary, it's annoying.

#23 5 years ago

Any of 1n4001 or 1n4004 or 1n4007.
-Mike

#24 5 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

Did you test diodes with multimeter before reconnecting? That would have been the perfect time.
-Mike

I did, and all of them fell between .562 and .568, which I believe is good since they're between .4 and .6 correct?

Any of 1n4001 or 1n4004 or 1n4007

Good, I have several of each of those I believe. So it doesn't matter which I use? I can re-add the one for the flipper... though based on what is happening with the others in that switch row, I'm guessing something will go wrong.

#25 5 years ago

Found it, pm me with your mailing address and l'll get it mailed out

#26 5 years ago

Most machines came with the 1n4001, I update to the 1n4004 as its a little higher volt rating.
-Mike

#27 5 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

I did, and all of them fell between .562 and .568, which I believe is good since they're between .4 and .6 correct?

Yes on the forward voltage but did you check in reverse to make sure it is zero or shows .OL
-Mike

#28 5 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

Yes on the forward voltage but did you check in reverse to make sure it is zero or shows .OL
-Mike

Yup, I did. Sorry I should have said that too.

I find it interesting that switches 47 & 48 do absolutely nothing when reconnected. Thinking I should do some straight up continuity testing from board to all these switches. Also thinking I should look for a ground/short issue by testing to ground right?

I have a sinking feeling it's going to be the chip... But I can hope it's something easier.

#29 5 years ago
Quoted from wdennie:

Found it, pm me with your mailing address and l'll get it mailed out

Thank you sir, PM incoming, you rock

#30 5 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Yup, I did. Sorry I should have said that too.
I find it interesting that switches 47 & 48 do absolutely nothing when reconnected. Thinking I should do some straight up continuity testing from board to all these switches. Also thinking I should look for a ground/short issue by testing to ground right?
I have a sinking feeling it's going to be the chip... But I can hope it's something easier.

Did this on my Alien Poker and it was 3 hours with my wife helping and taking notes. Take your time and be attentive, it's easy to look over something. Hopefully you find the issues.
-Mike

#31 5 years ago

If you have any methodology or tips, feel free to tell me... I've only done this type of testing on my EMs haha.

#32 5 years ago

You can check the switch matrix on the driver board using a wire with an alligator clip on both ends. Remove connectors 1J8 and 1J10, and carefully attach one clip to one of the following:

1J8 Switch Column Pin Numbers

Pin 1 = Column 1, green/brown
Pin 2 = Column 2, green/red
Pin 3 = Column 3, green/orange
Pin 4 = Column 4, green/yellow
Pin 5 = Column 5, green/black
Pin 6 = key
Pin 7 = Column 6, green/blue
Pin 8 = Column 7, green/violet
Pin 9 = Column 8, green/gray

Then use the other one to touch (or clip to) each of the following pins, 1 at a time:

1J10 Switch Row Pin Numbers

Pin 1 = Row 8, white/gray
Pin 2 = Row 7, white/violet
Pin 3 = Row 6, white/blue
Pin 4 = key
Pin 5 = Row 5, white/green
Pin 6 = Row 4, white/yellow
Pin 7 = Row 3, white/orange
Pin 8 = Row 2, white/red
Pin 9 = Row 1, white/brown

If only one switch registers each time, then you know the cpu/driver board is ok and that the problem is somewhere in the playfield. Good luck!

#33 5 years ago

So it seems the Green-Blue wiring on the left side of the playfield does not have continuity to the Green-Blue wiring on the right side of the playfield. The right side switches are all of the ones that don't do anything when I reconnect the diodes. I'm assuming that Green-Blue wiring should have continuity from the board all the way through every single associated switch in that matrix column.

It seems like the left side has continuity back to the board, but the right side doesn't. However, the right side switches do have continuity to each other.

I'm going to do more testing and wire tracing, but that could mean a break or issue somewhere along the way.

Frunch - I'll go through and do what you suggested tomorrow I hope. Thanks!

#34 5 years ago

UPDATE Time... so I did the test as suggested. Sadly, I think it indicates the problem is on the board side. Here are the results:

1J8, Pins 1 - 5 --> All showed only one switch registered as I touched each 1J10 pin

1J8, Pin 7 --> Every single pin on 1J10 showed multiple registered switches. And as expected, it showed the switches going all the way across the same row.

*** Example: 1J8, Pin 1 to 1J10, Pin 1 = Switches 48, 40, 32, 24, 16, 8 (i.e. it showed all of Row 8 )

The same was true of each 1J10 Pin... they all showed the entire row associated with the Switch matrix for that Pin.

So... should I assume bad chip? Bad transistor? If so, which one(s)?

#35 5 years ago

So then we are looking at this. But to be honest your last post confused me. Tired I guess but what row is actual problem?
-Mike

Screenshot_2018-06-07-19-57-07 (resized).pngScreenshot_2018-06-07-19-57-07 (resized).png
#36 5 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

So then we are looking at this. But to be honest your last post confused me. Tired I guess but what row is actual problem?
-Mike

It's Column 6 in the matrix (1J8-7). Every single switch triggers the entire row associated with each switch in that column. So basically (I think) the problem is associated with whatever is connected to 1J8-7.

So if I jumper connector 1J8 Pin 7 to any of the Pins on 1J10 connector, the entire associated switch Row for 1J10 will trigger. Like this:

1J8, Pin 7 --> Jumpered to --> 1J10, Pin 1 = Switches 48, 40, 32, 24, 16, 8 all show closed
1J8, Pin 7 --> Jumpered to --> 1J10, Pin 2 = Switches 47, 39, 31, 23, 15, 7 all show closed
1J8, Pin 7 --> Jumpered to --> 1J10, Pin 3 = Switches 46, 38, 30, 22, 14, 6 all show closed
1J8, Pin 7 --> Jumpered to --> 1J10, Pin 4 = N/A key location
1J8, Pin 7 --> Jumpered to --> 1J10, Pin 5 = Switches 45, 37, 29, 21, 13, 5 all show closed
1J8, Pin 7 --> Jumpered to --> 1J10, Pin 7 = Switches 44, 36, 28, 20, 12, 4 all show closed
1J8, Pin 7 --> Jumpered to --> 1J10, Pin 8 = Switches 43, 35, 27, 19, 11, 3 all show closed
1J8, Pin 7 --> Jumpered to --> 1J10, Pin 8 = Switches 42, 34, 26, 18, 10, 2 all show closed
1J8, Pin 7 --> Jumpered to --> 1J10, Pin 9 = Switches 49, 41, 33, 25, 17, 9, 1 all show closed

Looking at the schematic... 1J8-7 goes through Q12 (2N3904), R127 (1.5kOhm), U45-Pin7 (LS244) then over to U15 PIA6821 somewhere I think.

Do I start by replacing Q12 and hope it's the transistor? I have a feeling it's more likely a chip right? Should I replace U45? I'm at a loss from here on out. I have a logic probe somewhere, but have rarely used it. Advice welcome!

#37 5 years ago

Definitely check Q12 first, compare readings with other known-good transistors of the same type adjacent to it if you're unsure if it's good or not. Hopefully that's all it is!

#38 5 years ago

Okay, thanks! I'll have to pull the board and remove the transistor to test it properly, if memory serves.

I don't have one of those transistors around, so I'll have to order one of it's bad. If that's not the issue, what's next, U45?

#39 5 years ago

After you find the damaged board components, you need to thoroughly inspect under the playfield for what started the issue. Usually high(er) voltage has contacted a playfield switch and blown the board components.

If you don't find the root cause, the replaced components will quickly fail too.

#40 5 years ago
Quoted from MaxAsh:

Do I start by replacing Q12 and hope it's the transistor?

Thinking you're getting close to fixing this board! But while you're waiting for parts triple check the playfield as gutz is very right.
-Mike

Quoted from gutz:

After you find the damaged board components, you need to thoroughly inspect under the playfield for what started the issue. Usually high(er) voltage has contacted a playfield switch and blown the board components.
If you don't find the root cause, the replaced components will quickly fail too.

#41 5 years ago

Ah, ok, good follow-up advice. I thought perhaps they might have just failed over time. I know someone messed around under the playfield because they hacked in a bunch of LED strips and such. Entirely possible a tab is bent oddly or something is grounded, etc. I'm assuming I need to check primarily within the problem switches.

Going back to the continuity testing, should every single switch have continuity back to the board (and each other? Finding out some don't concerned me.

#42 5 years ago

gates on its way.

#43 5 years ago
Quoted from wdennie:

gates on its way.

Thanks so much! Hopefully I can get it in there and working.

Looks like I have some board work ahead of me first. Fingers crossed that goes well. The more I think about it, the more I think it's going to be the PIA chip... I can't imagine how the transistor would cause that kind of full matrix row issue. Someone let me know if there's something else I should go after, but I'm thinking do each of these and test as I do them:

1) Test transistor, replace if needed (or just replace anyway since I might as well order some since they're cheap)
2) Replace U15 (6821 PIA) and install socket to make life easier while doing so
3) Replace U45 (LS244) if 1 & 2 don't fix things

Then who knows beyond that. I'll start trying to check the wiring and such in the mean time. Things I should look for when doing so? Test for Green/Blue to Ground (which would be bad I assume) and check continuity again. Verify things visually... what else?

#44 5 years ago

Sounds like you're on the right track. You wouldn't think a single transistor could cause so much trouble, but i would definitely start there anyway. I recently got a game where one transistor out on a display made the whole display act wonky. So hopefully it's just a transistor, as those are way easier to swap out than a chip. Good luck!

#45 5 years ago

Thanks frunch. I ordered the transistor, U15, and U45. I'll try to go through systematically and figure it out.

Parts should be here in a couple days. Fingers crossed

#46 5 years ago

Bell pics as requested.
-Mike

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#47 5 years ago

The switches below the Lock lights(blue-green wires) do have continuity to each other.
-Mike

#48 5 years ago

And a diagram of bell assembly.
-Mike

Screenshot_2018-06-10-10-08-40 (resized).pngScreenshot_2018-06-10-10-08-40 (resized).png
#49 5 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

The switches below the Lock lights(blue-green wires) do have continuity to each other.
-Mike

Thanks for checking that Mike. So clearly I've got something wrong in my Green-Blue wiring for that column of switches. I have continuity through a certain point, then it stops. I'll have to trace things out and try to find the break/issue, which may in turn explain the problem that screwed up the board.

Edit/Update - That was quick... just found that the Green-Blue wiring that goes into the plug for the Space Shuttle node switch is not making good contact. The wire that goes in and comes out is not tight, so slight wiggling will cause it to break contact between the two wires (which then cuts off the switches on the rest of the chain. Going to re-pin that connector and I should be good for continuity.

Thank you for the bell pics, I'll go compare mine right now.

Checked out my bell. Someone had reversed the striker part so that it couldn't hit the bell. Subsequently doing that made it so the bell switch shown in your pic was always open, instead of normally closed when the bell isn't striking, since the bell striker actually holds the switch closed when in its natural position. I've put the striker back on properly (easy as shown in your pic, just two black screws) and that should take care of it.

Sidenote - my high score reset switch wouldn't work. I tested the switch itself using my meter and it closes as it should, but nothing happens when I hold it down during attract mode like it should. I manually jumpered the two wires coming into the switch and sure enough it worked. Strange. There's a diode on it, but it tests good, so I'm not sure what's going on there... I'll worry about it later I guess.

#50 5 years ago

Underneath Space Shuttle.
-Mike

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