Lets start with the easy one first, F-1 1/4 amp fuse is burning. This fuse is for the high voltage to the displays. You have installed X-PIN displays which do not need high voltage to work because they are leds. So you can leave this fuse out as it is not needed anymore.

Now when you turn on the power, does the game boot up into attract mode every time and you have working displays?
Have you measured for the correct voltage on the power supply test points?

Ok so now you can't get the coils to fire in test but worked before. The up/down post coil that you cut loose, did you cut the power wire or the drive wire? If you cut the power wires, did you keep both wires tied together when you insulated them? If not then you will have a break in the power to the rest of the coils.

I'm not seeing anything wrong on the playfield. Did the coin lockout coils have one or two wires on them when disconnected them? Did you remove any connectors from the cpu board?

Well I would test for power on the red coil wires. Should be @ 28 volts dc.

Well then, for all coils not to work and you have good voltage at the coils, you either have a bad ground connection at the CPU board, a bad blanking signal or a bunch of bad transistors. You can install the balls and start a game to see if the coils only not work in coil test.

Do you have a jumper wire @ 3 ft in length.

Turn the game on. Lift the play field and prop it up. Attach one end of the jumper to the ground braid on the cabinet. Take the other end of the jumper and briefly touch the negative coil lugs (not the red power wires). Do the coils fire with good power?

So you actually don't have power at the coils even though you read voltage on your meter. I know this sounds crazy, but it happens a lot. You have an intermittent connection that's fine with out a load but opens under load. If you use your voltmeter and test one side of the fuse for example, you will read say 34 volts. While doing that then do the coil jumper test. If every time you jumper the coil the voltage drops to near zero, then you found the bad connection or the bad connection is before the place you tested. If the voltage stays the same then the bad connection is somewhere between the coil and the test spot.

I too have had fuses and fuse holders do this many times before. You chase your tail for a while.

Replace f-2 with another fuse and retest. You definitely have a bad connection somewhere, now you need to find it.

Don't repin yet. Remove the power supply from the game. Take a pic of the back of the board.

Check the solder joints on these spots for cracks.

The bridge rectifier on the power supply is for the five volts. The bridge rectifier for the coils is mounted in the lower right corner of the back box.

Inkedpowersupply_LI (resized).jpg

The original power supply is in need of a rebuild as it still has original caps, header pins and bridge rectifier. Doing a good rebuild will allow for another 40 years of service.