(Topic ID: 83637)

Space Shuttle Power

By sta98

10 years ago


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  • 61 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by Cheddar
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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There are 61 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 10 years ago

I've finally started to work on my Space Shuttle I picked up last fall. On powering up, only playfield lights would come on, no power to board or score. This is my first SS pin, I've only worked on EM pins in the past. I decided to start at the transformers and found that most of the voltage readings were on the high side, especially between posts 18-16. Anyone have some insight to transformer voltages and what is within range and what is not? If they too high, how to do you lower them? Any info would be welcome. Thanks.
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#2 10 years ago

Don't worry so much about incoming AC voltages. On the unregulated side of the circuits, voltages is going to vary. Solenoid voltage is one you typically find reading high. Unregulated 12v reads high as well.

Start at your MPU. You need +12vdc to trigger a reset and +5vdc to run the CPU. If you have missing or low voltages work, then you go and work backwards towards the transformer. That is always how I would recommend doing it. Go to the displays look for the + and - voltages there too. Ignore the lamp shit for right now, get your MPU and display running first.

#3 10 years ago

OK, thanks for the tip. I'll start at the other end and let you know how it goes

#4 10 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Ignore the lamp shit for right now

this is a tech term

#5 10 years ago

Well, I've only got about 1 vdc where there should be 5 vdc and -14 vdc instead of -15 vdc and 13.5 vdc instead of 15 vdc coming into the cpu board. This must be why the board won't boot. Does the rectifier controlls the dc voltage?
power2.jpgpower2.jpg

#6 10 years ago

Go to your power board and give a good visual inspection. Pay close attention to the capacitors there. Look for bulging, split wrappers, leaking electrolyte.

#7 10 years ago

I don't see any cracking or split caps, no leaking, some slight bulging on the two larger blue ones and the large black one. Don't really notice any other red flags that I can see. I've attached some photos, maybe you can see something I don't. Would the next step be to just start recapping the power board? Which ones do you think would be priority for the DCV's I'm short on. Thanks again for your help!
IMG_20140312_125911_148[1].jpgIMG_20140312_125911_148[1].jpgIMG_20140312_125829_755[1].jpgIMG_20140312_125829_755[1].jpgIMG_20140312_125759_533[1].jpgIMG_20140312_125759_533[1].jpgIMG_20140312_125708_445[1].jpgIMG_20140312_125708_445[1].jpg

#8 10 years ago

You can directly see in the photos that the 100uf caps are BAD.

Replace the 18,000uf cap while you are in there.

If you have a desoldering tool, I'd replace the headers. If not, at least reflow them.

About 1/2 way down is tips for updating sys 7 power supply, but much will apply to your sys 9

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2

#9 10 years ago

Thanks Vid, I'll get those caps replaced. Also, I looked over your guide for System 7 updating. Great read! I'll also install those extra fuses while I'm at it. The last time I had to replace caps it was when I recapped my Donkey Kong arcade monitor! Like I said, I've only really worked on EM pins in the past so this is gonna be a fun learning experience

#10 10 years ago

So where does everyone order parts here? I went to my small town Radio Shack and could only find a couple of the smaller caps I needed. I did get the two fuse holders and the fuses though.

#12 10 years ago

Always check Tayda's facebook, often 15% coupon code:

https://www.facebook.com/TaydaElectronics

#13 10 years ago

OK, ordered all the caps, resistors, diodes and transistors to replace everything from Great Plains Electronics. It was nice they had the cap kit and the High Voltage parts kit was out of stock but I found everything in open stock. All for under $20 shipped, can't go wrong! Thanks for the tip...no I just wait for the mail.

#14 10 years ago

So I just tracked my parts from Great Plains Electronics and it's out for delivery today....in Utah! I'm in Michigan! That's just great, guess I won't be working on it tomorrow like I planned.

#15 10 years ago

Contact Ed @ GPE. Maybe just your tracking # got mixed up.

#17 10 years ago

Got my parts in after they took the scenic route. Tonight I'll start soldering

#18 10 years ago

OK, got all my caps and resisters changed out. Hooked everything back up and I have power to the board now but I get either a 0 or 7 code on the main board. Also, how many rom chips should I have? I see a couple of empty spots and I'm wondering if I'm missing a couple?

#19 10 years ago

IMG_20140322_215101_582.jpgIMG_20140322_215101_582.jpg

#20 10 years ago

U20 and U49 are the two ROMs needed on the MPU.

If you get a zero that is good. Should go into attract mode or adjust failure. 7 is means the MPU is flat out not booting.

#21 10 years ago

Here's some other things to consider.

-Check for proper battery voltage.
-When you get a "0" there should also be something on the displays. If there is not, you may have missing voltage to the displays (faulty power supply) or, just all bad displays.
-When you get a "0" do you hear and sounds when you try to coin the game up?

1 week later
#22 9 years ago

Update: I get the board to boot to a 0 status now everytime. I don't see any attract mode but this is what is on the score display on power up:
IMG_20140405_182253_761.jpgIMG_20140405_182253_761.jpg

If I push the sw1 on the board it goes to this:
IMG_20140405_182057_113.jpgIMG_20140405_182057_113.jpg

and toggles to this one and then back to the above:
IMG_20140405_182059_648.jpgIMG_20140405_182059_648.jpg

I only get general pf lights, everything seems to be unresponsive from this point on. Any ideas?

#23 9 years ago

Do you have 3 balls in it? Ed

#24 9 years ago

No, but I'll try that

#25 9 years ago

If you don't have 3 balls in it, it won't respond. I worked on mine the other day and forgot to put the balls back in it. I turned it on and it would not coin up a game. I thought something else had happened to it but then I noticed I forgot to install the balls. Put them back in and bingo, back in business. Ed

#26 9 years ago

I put the three balls in. Also notice that I forgot to put the bottom fuse back on the power board from when I replaced the caps! Opps, my bad. Now on power up I still just get the first image I posted above but now when I press the sw1 on the main board, it goes into attract mode. Wow, that was awesome to see for the first time Can't coin it up yet, my machine didn't have the mechs in the coin door and I'm assuming the second red push button on the front of the cabinet would credit it up? What color are the coin switch wires in the door? Green and White? Didn't really find them in the manual.

#28 9 years ago

Looks like green and white one side and green and yellow on the other. Ed

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#29 9 years ago

Thanks, I'll take a look at it.

#30 9 years ago

Hope you get it going, playing mine now. Ed

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#31 9 years ago

Thanks, I'll be working on it again tomorrow. Nice shot of yours, are those LEDs on your FP?

#32 9 years ago

Not in inserts but in gi yes. It came that way when I bought it. It's my favorite game. Williams Ij just sits now.

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#33 9 years ago

Still can't get it to coin up and the three buttons inside the coin door don't respond either. I checked and they are plugged in, must be something else I'm missing. Besides the loading of the three balls, is there anything else that would prevent the game from coining up or accessing the menu with the three buttons?

#34 9 years ago

Sorry nothing that I can think of. Ed

#35 9 years ago

Thanks anyway Ed. Anyone else have any ideas?

#36 9 years ago

Next step is to confirm that you can execute a switch input by directly shorting it to ground in the head at connector 1J14.

On system 11 games, the test button switches inside the coin door are wired directly to the CPU board at connector 1J14. These switches DO NOT go through the switch matrix on any system 11 revision. The test button switches are direct switches to the CPU board, directly connecting to the CPU. Shorting these input pins to ground should allow you to get into the games diagnostics. You probably just have a loose connection from these pins through to the coin door. If shorting those pins does not get the game into self tests or audits, the MPU will likely need work.

FYI, this image above "IMG_20140405_182059_648.jpg" is showing a properly booted system 9 game! Get it to that state again and perform the step above.

#37 9 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

On system 11 games, the test button switches inside the coin door are wired directly to the CPU board at connector 1J14. These switches DO NOT go through the switch matrix on any system 11 revision.

Good to know, the reset switch on my High Speed doesn't work (but the other two do) so I will trace it physically back and make sure there isn't a break in the wire somewhere along the line.

As for setting free play on Space Shuttle, it is not in the manual. I had to Google it when I reset my settings to factory.
From Ed Cheung's site:

From Usenet, figured out how to put the game in free play mode. Surprisingly, this is not in the manual. The way to do it is to change 'Function 18' (Maximum Credits) to zero.
With all diagnostic buttons UP.
Press 'Advance' until 'Ball' display reads 18.
Press middle diagnostic button DOWN.
Press 'Start' button until 'Credit' display goes to zero.
Power cycle game to clear book keeping mode.

Keep us updated on your progress.

#38 9 years ago

Thanks for the tips, I'll be working on it tomorrow.

#39 9 years ago

Shorting the pins worked and I was able to walk through the menu Checked the main plug that connects the board to the switches at the coin door and found many pins in the plug were coated with a green corrosion. Wire brushed the plug and cleaned it up and now the three switches inside the door work Next up, trying to coin it up and see what happens. I'll keep everyone posted, thanks again for the help!

#40 9 years ago

Cool! That was your problem. You will be playing it tonight. Ed

#41 9 years ago

Not quite...I can put credits on it and when I push the credit button I hear the ball kicker kick and then the drain stop pops up and down once and then it stays in attract mode and doesn't start the game. The credit button is dead until the attract cycles once then if I press it, it repeats. Can you confirm what sequence happens when starting a new game?

#42 9 years ago

Ya that's weird. Ball should kick up and you can shoot it to start. My center does not pop up to start a game. Ed

#43 9 years ago

The game is performing a ball search because it cannot "see" all, or some of the balls. It will not start until the game sees all 3 balls in the game's ball trough. Check the switch wires to all of those on the underside of the playfield. One may have just fallen off or be really dirty...

This is an excellent time to teach yourself how to go into the game's self tests and perform the switch test on every switch in the game, including the trough switches. Get into the habbit because in the pinball hobby you will be performing the switch tests a LOT.

#44 9 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

The game is performing a ball search because it cannot "see" all, or some of the balls. It will not start until the game sees all 3 balls in the game's ball trough. Check the switch wires to all of those on the underside of the playfield. One may have just fallen off or be really dirty...
This is an excellent time to teach yourself how to go into the game's self tests and perform the switch test on every switch in the game, including the trough switches. Get into the habbit because in the pinball hobby you will be performing the switch tests a LOT.

Hey, good idea. I bet that's his problem. That's why I love this place! Ed

#45 9 years ago

OK, I'll be checking in out later this morning after I bring the kids to school I agree Ed, this is a great place for everyone helping each other out.

#46 9 years ago

Hot Damn! It's working! Yep, one of the ball switches was stuck. What great progress, I'm super excited! Next up, sound. I have a very loud speech volume but a very low sound effect volume. I'm thinking maybe I need to change the caps for the sound on the board? Besides it sounding very low, lots of static and noise. I'm going to go through the switch checking today and see if anything on the pf is in need of attention. Again, thanks to everyone here who responded to my post, what a great group of pinheads

#47 9 years ago

There isn't a system 11/9 that has stumped me yet.

You pots are probably dirty. There is one in the lower cabinet and one on the sound card/board in the head. Twist them both around fully in both directions about 100 times to see if there is an improvement in sound quality.

#48 9 years ago

That is great to hear! You are going to love this game, tons of fun to play. I feel like it bridges the gap between older, more traditional pinball and the modern mode driven games.

Quoted from snyper2099:

There isn't a system 11/9 that has stumped me yet.

You're making me want to pick your brain on this intermittent problem I'm having where High Speed sometimes kicks a second ball into the shooter lane after one ball is locked... but I don't want to muddy up this thread.

#49 9 years ago

When I had very noisy sound it was related to the grounds on the boards. To fix it I made sure that each mounting hole had a screw in it and they were tight. Most of my noise went away.

I also found I had to tweak the pot in the backbox (seemed to be mostly voices) relative to the sound effects. then I used the volume knob in the cabinet to set the master volume

#50 9 years ago

Opps, I was replacing light bulbs and when I got done I have none of the matrix (blinking) lights. I can coin it up, start a game, ball kicks out, all the switches work and sounds but no matrix lights at all. I replaced one fuse in the back box that was out (second from the bottom) but still nothing. Can't quite figure out what went wrong.

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