Application time!!

First, let's talk about final prep:

I used Naphtha to wipe down the entire playfield. After evaporation and drying occurred, I used a tack cloth to remove any final dust from the playfield, then laid the hardtop on top of the playfield.

Then out came the perfectionist in me. I spent a good 30 minutes attempting to get the best lineup of holes. I started shoot some video before I realized I wasn't lined up accordingly:

In the video, you'll see a couple things I have already done. I used a center piece of painter's tape to hold the hardtop in place. Then I decided which side I wanted to affix first. I chose the upper level of the playfield. Therefore, I "locked in" the bottom of the hardtop wouldn't pivot in the center.

Once locked in the process you'll see below is followed:

1. Pull the hardtop back to center.
2. Peel off the 3M adhesive protector.
3. Cut the 3m adhesive protector off with SHARP scissors (not jagged edges or tears here or you'll make life difficult).
4. Apply to playfield and use firm pressure to stick down. Try to work the hardtop from the middle -> out when pressing.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Before following this process, do a test run to confirm all switches can make it through the holes. I found that I had one switch that was angled in a way that cause the hardtop to catch. I dropped that one through the playfield.

Video in action on the top application:

(as you can see, my wife is thrilled to be on camera)

Now, here's the bottom side. I removed all the painter's tape as it's no longer needed:

Now for the last part, I remove the top layer that is protecting the surface in travel/handling. One thing that I will note here is that it may be best to do this step prior to application so you can confirm your inserts are lined up appropriately. Luckily, I nailed getting mine based on the holes alone:

WATCH THE MAGIC UNFOLD BEFORE YOUR EYES!

Here's some close up shots:

shot2 (resized).jpg

shot1 (resized).jpg

Now, it's time to start to put this thing back together. Outside Edge had told me that this beta had a couple of missing holes that were not cut out, and this was already fixed. Therefore, I did have to do some drilling/dremel work for some holes. Also, it's important to note that some holes needed to be a little larger due differences in the playfields. So, after application there is going to be an on-going set of time where the hardtop may be sanded back a couple of millimeters to get the screw to hit the hole. I don't see this as a big deal as it's pretty easy and almost invisible once it is completed.

Another important step to take is that many of your leaf switches will need to be adjusted due to accommodate the new thickness of the hardtop. I used this adjustment tool from Pinball Life which worked great: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518

While I had the machine tore down to this level, I always rebuild pop bumpers. I especially found these plastic spoons a little rough:

popspoons (resized).jpg

I solder back on the ramp target switch and the outhole kicker solenoid as well and took the playfield back downstairs into my heated workshop to finish up the install.

I talked to Outside Edge who said waxing is fine to do. Luckily, I'm not too far into my reassembly to do so! Thanks vid!

As someone testing, this is where I find the biggest motivation. I'm not great with restorations with it comes to painting/artwork. Therefore, if I had a title of a pin that I wanted to save, I would have the following choices:

1. Buy all the equipment, learn how to use it, practice, etc.
2. Send it to someone who would do a great job, but expensive to complete (playfield restorer) / buy a repro playfield.
3. Use a product like this.

Although, I love to have the time for #1, with two girls 3 and under, that's just not going to happen. #2 would also work, but in some cases, you're going to be in $400 - $600 for a quality restoration of a playfield. Even more depending on condition. Reproduction playifelds can also insane from a pricing perspective.

#3 makes sense for many reasons:

1. Time/effort/energy needed to input into the product.
2. Keeping a machine on a budget, yet playable.
3. Ability to "save" titles that are not in the upper tier of pinball machines.

Now, if I was restoring a TAF, AFM, IJ, CV, etc. I would probably turn to #2 depending on current condition. But if I found a completely roached TAF playfield with the mansion gone (which I saw one that still sold for $300 recently), this is a life-saver and will work well in any players condition game.

But if I am restoring a Comet, am I going to speed $800 for a new reproduction playfield for a game that's "maybe worth $1,000"? No, because financially that doesn't make sense. However, if I could get a product like this for a much cheaper price, I've saved one machine that can be playable for years to come.

Ok, final post here as I'm wrapping up this SS install:

Here's the video of the finished hardtop installed and some (one-handed) play-testing:

Here's some final thoughts on the reassembly:

1. A mentioned in an earlier post, there's definitely some fiddling with certain holes once applied and going through reassembly. I keep a 3/32" drill bit in my drill to ever some slightly expand some holes.

2. The playfield is marvelous. I really haven't seen anything like this in terms of an "off the shelf" product except for CPR playfields.

3. Ball travel is fantastic. In the video, I only have the playfield at a 5 degree slope. I leveled the playfield up to 6.5 degrees and HOLY COW, this puppy is fast! Waxing the hardtop also made a great difference to the overall friction-less surface. I would say it's not required to wax, but it definitely helped.

4. Again, the artwork on the hardtop is really top notch. Nothing is blurry or distorted that I could find anywhere.
5. Take the time when reassembling to replace any worn out/broken parts. My pop bumpers are on a high trigger now and the game is playing great. I need new plastics for SS and a new ramp, but I was able to recondition mine as good as possible.

6. I decided to switch to Titan Pinball silicone rubbers and now I don't think I'll ever buy anything else. These things are legit.

I do want to thank Outside Edge for letting me give hardtop a beta test run. I've been able to give him feedback both on PinSide but also privately. I think he's got a great product that is going to be able to "save" a lot of titles from being parted out in the future.

I'm happy to answer any questions about my SS.

Finally, here's some closeup shots of the hardtop:
finish2 (resized).jpgfinish1 (resized).jpg

Yes, the lettering is included!

Hi mof,

1. Ordered!

2. Yeah, when I moved SS into my workshop, I just threw on whatever legs I had laying around. I realized halfway into the video that I didn't setup the pitch. I'll try out the 7 degrees though!

Well when the PF has already done half the work for you already! Haha!

Definitely a cathartic response on taking a sander to a PF by far!

So, a couple of updates now that the game is been out in my game room for a bit (including a Super Bowl party):

Gameplay:
I think the overall sentiment is that the game just "plays better." Since ball travel is more consistent, it's easier to handle the ball and scores are higher than usual on the table.

Aesthetics:
There's really no comparison here. The hardtop does a great job emphasizing the artwork but also allowing a "clear coat like" shine from the lamps on the playfield. My old overlay never did that which really flattened the feel visually.

Final Impression:
I feel like a product like this is good even when an amateur notices and spots the differences. Many of my close friends are not really into pinball, but all of them knew something was different when they played.

Although, this was a beta test for the product, I would have absolutely spent my money on this product. In fact, based on some of the (potential) upcoming titles, I may just do that. As I said in an earlier post, there are different levels of playfield restoration that one may take, I see the hardtop as in the same boat as a reproduction playfield. Unless you have severe wood damage like planking or water damage, I think this is a more cost effective approach.