Just pulled the trigger on the backglass this morning. I have new plastics, new shuttle and ramps installed in mine, now if I could only find the time (and guts) to swap out my playfield

Vid scanned an original, PM sent!

That "SPACE SHUTTLE" logo REALLY pops in the photos, I can't wait until mine comes

You bought the backglass JUST to hang on the wall? You need to get a machine

Holy crap you're right, I've checked the usual 4-5 vendors and all out of stock. Ironic the plastics sets sold out but they still have playfields.

Got my SS backglass from CPR today. I'm seeing the same blue hue everyone else is. However with that said:
It does POP, the colors are very vibrant
It is nice having a backglass that doesn't have paint chipped off on the edges
The new art, looking at it close up, is less dithered than the original. You can tell there's a big difference between 1986 printing and 2014 printing.
spaceshuttle.jpg

The wire gate isn't that complicated, yet this subject keeps coming up.
bay area had it in stock for a while but not now:
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-12-6653&Category_Code=

If I bought some stainless stock and recreated mine, I wonder how many would need one?

No offense to Jeff, but a LOT of his decals for inserts don't line up.

Waterjet would be better than cnc, less burrs.. Plus waterjet will be faster and can go down to a 1mm tip, CNC would require multiple tips and even then it would be hard to get down to 1mm on a CNC.

I would imagine for each plate (each layer, per side) it would probably cost you at least $50 a piece.. But compare that to $130 for a set of stickers that you can use once.

If I remember right, these guys charge $500 to restore a playfield (you have to strip it yourself). Same price as a CPR playfield (which isn't available anymore)
http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/Home.html

The metal rod is useless. Even if it stays, it'll tilt to the left. Most people add a strip of wood in the very back (so the back plastics don't crack), and just rest it on the rails of the side of the cabinet, and tilt it back towards the backbox.

I don't think so. There are no logos, and the shuttle is is called "defender" and not one of the real shuttle names. Though there is a "NASA" text on the shuttle, but the font is generic.

I'm amazed he's willing to fix boards in his spare time like that, the guy is an former NASA scientist for crying out loud
Any idea what he charges in case I ever have board problems?

Stickers that are that thin you really won't notice. If you're touching up other areas and intend on clearing anyway, the clear should level it out.

Can somone take a photo of the sticker on the backbox GI? Mine is so sunfaded I can't even make out what it says anymore:
space_shuttle_backbox_sticker.jpg

3 fit on a sheet, so I have 2 spare stickers. If you want one mailed to you, PM me an address.

That's why it's awesome. It's modern pinball with old school ringing

Woo! glad those worked out.

I had to replace my soundboard after I messed up a solder job trying to fix mine, but I bought a refurb from k's arcade. Pinballpcb intrigues me, thinking about buying their version of the system 7 cpu / driverboard vs rottendog.

I'm curious what the number means in the upper left, I've got a #36 on mine (did they mark which pinball build for the day to make it easier to troubleshoot)?

If you're reluctant to removing the siderails, it's easy (and you're going to want to replace the worn rusty nails anyway):
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-6505-K

Before you put the rails back on, polish them with sandpaper (work your way up to 600 grit), then put in your grain with a scotch brite pad.

I second that. If I didn't already have one, It'd be worth the drive up there.

No, and I've contacted rottendog to see if they would and they said there isn't enough demand (only 3 machines used this CPU, so 15k boards at best). You can either ship it to Ed Cheung, bring it to a show like Chicago Expo and let Rob T repair it, or sell it off and let someone else repair it and just buy a refurb from K's arcade.

** edit: this must be recent, but pinballpcb is going to be releasing a brand new system 9-11c MPU board with updated non-obsolete components, this is awesome news!
http://www.pinballpcb.com/System9-11cMainBoard.html

200[1].gif

I bought an aftermarket Pyle speaker off amazon for $14 to replace the stock bottom speaker. Of course there isn't much driving it so not sure I can tell the difference.

This /\

Also do you intend to drill holes for a speaker grill through the NASA logo? And if the black areas represent cut-out sections, you'll need to do some adjustments otherwise you'll have sections of the shuttle that will fall out after cutting (they can't float in space). That means joining them with thin sections of material (think army font)
http://www.dafont.com/theme.php?cat=114

I've done waterjet parts before. I'm figuring once you get the vector done those should cost you between $25-$50 per part. Let me know if you need any help converting the art. I really do like this idea.

As far as attaching, there "should" be enough surface area to attach to the 2 channels. If not, the speaker panel isn't that far back from the backbox trim
spaceshuttlelarge[1].jpg

Goingincircles: Love this mod, so did some quick tracing in autocad. Be happy to share the file with you:
grill.jpg
shuttle_closeup.jpg

I would try to match the blue of the plastics. I think I'd actually want it clear so I can backlight it, so yes I'm in.

Yea, the unsymmetrical doesn't look right. Every grill set I've seen is symmetrical. There's a reason why more symmetrical faces are more beautiful, our eyes are prejudice.

Jeff has a large library of art (and one of the few that's reproducing various pop bumper caps), but his stuff isn't always accurate or complete, and I don't think any of it is licensed as far as I know.

My wife is a huge NASA enthusiast, she went to space camp twice and she has every single patch ever released. We were also lucky enough to watch the final launch
5923956773_d5e2c025e2_b.jpg
5924519416_b700b92d45_z.jpg

No, that was from STS-135.

I think the causeway got you within 5 miles of the launch, or if you hang out at the museum it's more like 7-8. You must have been in the special VIP bleachers.

My really question is... How do you only have addams family in your collection? Surely there's a space shuttle in texas somewhere?

My vote is the double williams logo on each side. Let us know when you start making them.

The sets always came with an extra set of slings, and they don't come with feet, you have to make your own.

I'm willing to bet most of that cost is the stainless material. I bet it could be reduced to 1/4 the cost if it were made out of aluminum, would just have to polish it afterwards.

it's a valid point, heck NASA may even want license money. PPS deals with small vendors all the time, the licensing (to make it legal) may not be that much.

buy a lotto ticket, that's never going to happen again

I've seen a populated playfield or two for sale over the years with bad playfields. Was nearly tempted to buy one for $300 out of indiana about a year back. Keep your eyes out, one is bound to pop up.

What the hell? I've emailed them, I didn't get an email. Oh well, just happy that board is moving past the test phase. Love that company.

wrong thread

me

I'd say bare minimum $1000, you could pay a much as $1600 (non-CPR)

I still have my original after buying the CPR, light flaking at bottom in the black section

I've tried twice to sell my old one. They either found another source, or changed their mind.

It's come to my attention by some local pinball friends that the drop target has become unobtanium. So I 3d modeled it and printed some replacement parts. If anyone else needs a replacement, I uploaded it to thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4613394

awe snap, wonder why I couldn't find it. I did do some optimization to make it more printer friendly (thicker boss wall, chamfered the material saver strips)

I printed in PLA+ which seems like it would hold up. My target is fine, but my friend's games have really shotty fixes in theirs so anything is better than what they have now. I told them if it doesn't hold up, go to xometry.com and order parts in HP fusionjet nylon 12. VERY strong, and only $9 a piece.