(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!

By E_N_3

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

6 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #19 Center Ramp Switch Upgrade thread Posted by silver_spinner (10 years ago)

Post #50 Side rail nail removal Posted by toyotaboy (10 years ago)

Post #54 Free Play cards Posted by beatmaster (10 years ago)

Post #391 Backbox Display - Sticker Template Posted by toyotaboy (9 years ago)

Post #2362 DIY Glare Guard Posted by MurphyPeoples (4 years ago)


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#4127 1 year ago

Gooood morning guys! Finally, after years of searching... I'm joined the club! I recently purchased my Space Shuttle..
Of course it needs some attentions. I'm started to fix electronics and now it boots and all the display are 100% working. It seems all perfect BUT there are some things that do not convince me and looking at your pictures or pics of other Space Shuttles, I notice substantial differences...
Unfortunately mine has two non-original trafo and therefore the main wiring has been modified... but it works.
So, this is what I noticed:
1) Ground wire path. In mine, starts on the left side of the backbox, it goes up, crosses the whole backbox (above, behind the metal panel for the air vent) and return down on the right side. From the pictures, it should come down form behind the PCB panel... and I don't have any staples signs to be able to say that it was modified later. I also have to chech the path under the playfield, but one thing at a time.
2) Backbox metal sheet (where the boards are fixed) that has screws and not threaded spacers. It means that it doesn't lay well on the backbox due to the screws head, and I think it will not intercept the ground wire (see point No.1)
3) Backbox light panel. In mine I have an additional MDF panel glued on the main one.
4) Speaker panel. Some has the metal profile also on the bottom side. Mine has only the one for receive the glass.
5) Coin door... but it has the original WMS stickers inside
My questions about ground wire are born because the hum is very very very loud so I though was a problem about correct grounding...
So let me have your opinions about it... I'm really courious!!! And I want to restore everything to how it should have been originally!
Thanks!!!
Backbox (resized).jpegBackbox (resized).jpegCoin door (resized).jpegCoin door (resized).jpegGround (resized).jpegGround (resized).jpegLight panel (resized).jpegLight panel (resized).jpeg

EDIT! Looking at the light panel, even the flashers area is quite different...

1 week later
#4152 1 year ago
Quoted from kryss63:

Great idea !
Somebody knows if there was several version of the bell assembly and tilts on Space Shuttle? On mine, bell is missing (there is a disconnected knocker) and it looks really strange. The wood plate seems to be too short, and the tilts (pendulum disconnected) are differents.
There is no hole in the cabinet to proof that there was the biggest white wood support in the past.
Maybe the cabinet has been replaced.
[quoted image]

kryss63 I'm in the same situation..
I've already noticed some differences with other Space Shuttle (see my post #4127), maybe due to production changing. I've always think the tilt panel has been changed by the previous owner together both the trafos.. but if you have the same panel, the same configuration, no holes or remaining old staples.. I'm believing that's from factory. I missing the knocker and.. what about bell? Is an important feature in this machines.
Could be the last machines in production (wms didn't have pieces using what they had disposable) or modify for the export machine?!?
I'm really courious..
Ciaooo
IMG_20230121_132129 (resized).jpgIMG_20230121_132129 (resized).jpg

#4154 1 year ago
Quoted from kryss63:

Really interesting. Your are in Italy isn't it ?
Does your Space Shuttle originally comes from Italia ?
I have bought my My Space Shuttle in France (to a french guy) but it seems to come from Italia because there is some Italian text on some parts.
My knocker is not an original coil so I don't know if there was originally a knocker or a bell or nothing or something else.
I will check the voltage on the knocker to try to understand.
I keep you informed.
NB: I have move the sound level button, but originally it was at the same place like yours.

Ciao! I don't know where it comes from. I bought it from a guy that owns it for many years in the basement.
A friend of mine has another SS ready to be restored (it caught fire ), with the internal "white" tilt board. Another interesting point is the same coin door, the rounded one instead the classic with inox frame. But all the features noticed in my post (flat light panel, no lower profile in the speaker panel, different backbox panel and ground path...)
So mine is missing of bell or/and knoker... and I'm not able to understand why...

#4164 1 year ago
Quoted from misterhare:

Everyone do yourself a favor and get this freaking ramp. It's amazing. Visually opens everything up!

I wrote to Larry for a black one but he didn't answer to me yet...
The playfield needs to be adapted in a certain way? The original ramp has three holes for fixing while the repro has only two...

#4165 1 year ago
Quoted from kryss63:

No idea, my knocker is disconnected, I don't know why.
And it's not an original Williams coil.
I have to check the voltage on the wires.
If there is voltage, I will connect the knocker and test.
The very interessant thing is that there is 2 machines with exactly the same mods... so the question is to know if it's a mod or not.

So my machine has the backbox like yours, 23 cm depth. A friend of mine is 18,5 cm and the pinball is completely different (the "other" version). I didn't know about this difference...
In the next days I will continue with cab cleaning so I can check if cabling is complete or someone cut something. We'll keep in touch...

#4168 1 year ago
Quoted from iamdrunker:

Order the black ramps off the website.

Where? I mailed him off the website. Is there any other source?

4 weeks later
#4226 1 year ago

Hi everybody! That's my coin door.. very interesting to know that my machine came from Germany. But I need your help.. I'm trying to fix cut wires. The wires colours don't match the manual so it seems a bit hard..
I fixed the coil (Brown and Red wires), also the two lamps (Yellow and Yellow/black wires) but.. the coil starts to operate after approx 5 sec after the power on. Is it correct? Then, another trouble about coin door GI.. when the main GI relay is shut down, the coin door lamps also shut down. Is this normal?
Could someone take a picture for me of inside cabling? It remains the slam tilt..

IMG_20230225_180423 (resized).jpgIMG_20230225_180423 (resized).jpg
#4229 1 year ago
Quoted from KenH:

What coil? The coin lockout? Just my opinion, but that is the first thing I disable and bypass when I get a game.

You're right, but I would like to have all in order... I hate seeing cut cables in sight

Quoted from iamdrunker:

Yes is the answer to both of your questions.

Many thanks!

#4230 1 year ago

Two issues remain to answer:
1) Slam tilt connected. Working on test mode (#7) but once closed during attract mode, a brief "beep" from the speaker and the insert lights freeze for a while but nothing more... is this normal? I have always seen that the pinball usually blocks totally for a few seconds. Also the playfield slam tilt.. works in test mode but during attract mode nothing happens if closed...
2) Everytime I power on the machine, a coil is fired. From diagnostic test everything works fine, I mean all solenoids and switches are 100% working..
Any suggestion? Thanks guys and have a nice day!!!

#4232 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Have you rebuilt the power supply? Caps go bad.

Yes! Power board recapped and new connectors.
Also on the MPU I've rebuilt all the connectors, new sockets, new capacitors and some transistors/IC for dead solenoids and switch matrix columns..
Usually the coils which are fired are a bumper or the shield coil (between flippers)
Then,.. what happens on your Space Shuttle doing these test closing the slam switches?

#4234 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The cpu has a blanking signal... is that working correctly?
No lamps or solenoids should be on when the game is first turned on.

Blanking is low for a while at power on then High +3,5V.
On U22 the readings with logic probe are
P1 low, P2 High/pulse, P3 High, P4 High
P5 High, P6 ///, P7 High, P8 High
P6 is High at power then measure +1,34V.
All is fully working. I read that System11 has a similar issue with knocker at power on.. the sys9 board has the same structure so.. could be the same? A doubt.. I don't think WMS engineers and WMS itself could release a machine with this problem (also poor grounding is a problem but they put them on the market )

2 weeks later
#4236 1 year ago

Another question my pinball friends!!!
Just cabled the coin door. All the switches are ok in diagnostic mode but during attract mode the slam switch (#7) doesn't work properly.. I mean, if closed by hand the speaker do a brief "beep" and display has a sort of garbage, but just for a while.
I used to see that the pinball would freeze once closed the switch..

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