(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!


By E_N_3

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by KSUWildcatFan
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#1023 3 years ago

Just joined the club last week. Playfield is gonna need some love as well as the backglass, plastics seem good as well as the cabinet. MPU shows a "7", so that will need some attention too. It also seems to be missing the bell. I haven't dove into it yet as I'm in the middle of a bathroom restoration. I bought it right and it will be a fun game when it's done. It will go good with my Blackout.

#1030 3 years ago
Quoted from merfeldma:

Hey guys, just picked up count them, 2 Space Shuttle machines. One for only $100 and a parts game for $150 that had some very needed parts in it. I'm planning on doing a full resto on the game and going to send my playfield into John Greatwich.
I've made new aprons for High Speed and TOTAN in the past. Would there be any interest among the group for apron and shooter gauge reproductions with durable powdercoated undercoat and silk screened artwork?

Do you have an extra bell? The one I picked up last week was missing the bell.

1 month later
#1060 3 years ago

Check column 5 (strobe 5) on your lighting matrix.Check 1J7-6 connector pin, Q27, Q19.

#1071 3 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

What exactly is q27-q19?

Light driver section of the MPU. Q19 is a 2N6427 Darlington transistor, Q27 is a TIP42 transistor. All the lights you mentioned (plus a few more) are on this column in the light matrix.

6 months later
#1253 3 years ago
Quoted from KillerQ:

Nice, thanks! Does that little control board replace an old board, or is it new and inline....?

It's complete. Plug and play. You replace the existing controller board as well. Uses existing ribbon cables. I also removed the high voltage fuse. I didn't think the edge board connectors/plugs seated as well as they should but I've never had issues. It comes to mind the SSh used 2 different control boards so you may have to verify that.

#1256 3 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Were you able to choose color? I would love to have this in blue

I believe orange is all that is available from Rotton Dog. I contemplated blue, but I wasn't sure. Orange kind of complements the Shuttle flame, and the blue from xpin was another $100 and out of stock.

2 weeks later
#1276 3 years ago

May be obvious but make sure there is 3 balls in the machine and the ball switches are working.

2 weeks later
#1278 3 years ago

Good place to start. You may want to pull the ROM(s) and clean the legs and re-seat them. If ordering a new rom I'd probably get both new.

2 weeks later
#1291 3 years ago
Quoted from enjoyvelvet:

What is the capacitor replacement mod? Mine machine is working 100% except for the hot dog shaped lights...I had LED flashers in them and I think it cooked em. Any ideas where to look?

I'm unaware of a cap "mod" but i re-capped my power supply. The flashers are wired in series and the warming resistor needs cut if using LED's. I think there's a post somewhere on this thread. If I remember correctly it maybe a higher voltage circuit as well. I just left the incandescent bulb in as they are plenty bright. I also like the "analog" effect better in the backglass for the flame as opposed to the "digital" on/off.

#1295 3 years ago

Ok that's just replaces the bridges and added fuses. You can also add fuses and holders to the existing bridges, that's what I'm doing. That is a nice clean set up though.

1 month later
#1316 2 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

I've got an interesting problem I'm diagnosing. I picked up this SS a while back, but as I have gotten more educated on the game, I'm noticing that some of the computer controlled lights aren't acting correcting:
» YouTube video
Above, the is the green 2X to 7X lights. These were some not-so-great LEDs that I thought were causing my problem, so I dropped some incandescent bulbs back in. You can see the 4X doesn't light (bulb is good, diode is good, and socket is reading correctly) and 7X has an odd pattern.
Could there be something wrong back with the MPU board that drives these lights? Anything I should look over for or bench test?
I've also noticed my 4 X 3 grid also doesn't fire lights at the specific time (spelling S-P-A-C-E-S-H-U-T-T-L-E doesn't really work). Perhaps, this is all related?

Check the lighting matrix and see if there is a pattern if more than one light is out. Also, check plugs and connectors to see if you have any burned socket or loose pins. I had to replace a driver transistor as well as a socket and pins on the MPU.

2 months later
#1386 2 years ago

May want to check column 5 on the switch matrix. The kickers as well as the shooter lane switch is on that column. (If it's scoring when the ball is launched). You can check the switches but also check that column to ground.

1 month later
#1454 2 years ago

May be obvious, but make sure it has 3 balls in it.

1 year later
#1850 1 year ago

That "L" bracket is supposed to have a rubber on it. They are available from various suppliers, Marcos for sure. Looks like it's for playfield alignment but I'm not sure why it is needed. I use a 2 x 4 to prop up the playfield if I'm not resting it on the backbox.

1 month later
#1888 1 year ago

Why? because he wants to and can. Shoot it's not proportion correctly either if you want to nit pick, but neither is the Shuttle on the game. The whole thing should actually glow from sun reflection, perhaps not the panels though. I don't think I would do it but I am curious to see how this turns out.

#1892 1 year ago

Interesting, does look nice (solar panels should be black )I may have to try it, at least print it. If anyone is interested NasaModels has an STL file on thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1606209

#1893 1 year ago

Also....Bunches of 3D models here.....ISS maybe????
https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov/search/3d%20model

7 months later
#2079 6 months ago

You should also be able to rake the drop targets on the way through the spinner with the right flipper.

4 months later
#2171 75 days ago

U,S,A, and the upper ramp switch are all on the same column, along with the jets. I would check there if you haven't already.

#2173 74 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Yes I saw that in the switch matrix, but the jets work. I will take another look to be sure.

But do they register points?

#2176 68 days ago

Wire colors are listed in the manual. If you unplug the switch row and column plugs you can short the appropriate pins to by-pass the wiring to see if the wiring is alright or mpu needs attention.

#2185 64 days ago

I'm curious now. If I remember I'll try to get some pics this weekend. The switch matrix and the mpu diagram pin out are not the same. The matrix has the key at pin 2 and the cpu diagram has it at 4 (1J10). The wire colors are also inverted, 1 is 9 and so forth. Not sure if there is a service bulletin on this or not.
I just looked at the Sorcerer switch matrix and it matches the mpu pin out. So the switch matrix on SSh is wrong.

1 week later
#2213 54 days ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

On my machine in a situation where not all three bumpers are lit, the event that rotates which bumpers are lit/not-lit is by triggering the RIGHT pop bumper. My question is whether it is only supposed to be the RIGHT bumper, or are all three pop bumpers supposed to cause the lit/not-lit bumpers to rotate?

That sounds like it is working correctly. The lit pop(s) rotate as they are triggered.

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