Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!

Just joined the club last week. Playfield is gonna need some love as well as the backglass, plastics seem good as well as the cabinet. MPU shows a "7", so that will need some attention too. It also seems to be missing the bell. I haven't dove into it yet as I'm in the middle of a bathroom restoration. I bought it right and it will be a fun game when it's done. It will go good with my Blackout.

Do you have an extra bell? The one I picked up last week was missing the bell.

Check column 5 (strobe 5) on your lighting matrix.Check 1J7-6 connector pin, Q27, Q19.

Light driver section of the MPU. Q19 is a 2N6427 Darlington transistor, Q27 is a TIP42 transistor. All the lights you mentioned (plus a few more) are on this column in the light matrix.

This is what I used:
https://ksarcade.net/rottendog-7-digit-led-display-system-dis079.html

It's complete. Plug and play. You replace the existing controller board as well. Uses existing ribbon cables. I also removed the high voltage fuse. I didn't think the edge board connectors/plugs seated as well as they should but I've never had issues. It comes to mind the SSh used 2 different control boards so you may have to verify that.

I believe orange is all that is available from Rotton Dog. I contemplated blue, but I wasn't sure. Orange kind of complements the Shuttle flame, and the blue from xpin was another $100 and out of stock.

May be obvious but make sure there is 3 balls in the machine and the ball switches are working.

Good place to start. You may want to pull the ROM(s) and clean the legs and re-seat them. If ordering a new rom I'd probably get both new.

I'm unaware of a cap "mod" but i re-capped my power supply. The flashers are wired in series and the warming resistor needs cut if using LED's. I think there's a post somewhere on this thread. If I remember correctly it maybe a higher voltage circuit as well. I just left the incandescent bulb in as they are plenty bright. I also like the "analog" effect better in the backglass for the flame as opposed to the "digital" on/off.

Ok that's just replaces the bridges and added fuses. You can also add fuses and holders to the existing bridges, that's what I'm doing. That is a nice clean set up though.

Check the lighting matrix and see if there is a pattern if more than one light is out. Also, check plugs and connectors to see if you have any burned socket or loose pins. I had to replace a driver transistor as well as a socket and pins on the MPU.

May want to check column 5 on the switch matrix. The kickers as well as the shooter lane switch is on that column. (If it's scoring when the ball is launched). You can check the switches but also check that column to ground.

May be obvious, but make sure it has 3 balls in it.

That "L" bracket is supposed to have a rubber on it. They are available from various suppliers, Marcos for sure. Looks like it's for playfield alignment but I'm not sure why it is needed. I use a 2 x 4 to prop up the playfield if I'm not resting it on the backbox.

Why? because he wants to and can. Shoot it's not proportion correctly either if you want to nit pick, but neither is the Shuttle on the game. The whole thing should actually glow from sun reflection, perhaps not the panels though. I don't think I would do it but I am curious to see how this turns out.

Interesting, does look nice (solar panels should be black )I may have to try it, at least print it. If anyone is interested NasaModels has an STL file on thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1606209

Also....Bunches of 3D models here.....ISS maybe????
https://nasa3d.arc.nasa.gov/search/3d%20model

You should also be able to rake the drop targets on the way through the spinner with the right flipper.

U,S,A, and the upper ramp switch are all on the same column, along with the jets. I would check there if you haven't already.

But do they register points?

Wire colors are listed in the manual. If you unplug the switch row and column plugs you can short the appropriate pins to by-pass the wiring to see if the wiring is alright or mpu needs attention.

I'm curious now. If I remember I'll try to get some pics this weekend. The switch matrix and the mpu diagram pin out are not the same. The matrix has the key at pin 2 and the cpu diagram has it at 4 (1J10). The wire colors are also inverted, 1 is 9 and so forth. Not sure if there is a service bulletin on this or not.
I just looked at the Sorcerer switch matrix and it matches the mpu pin out. So the switch matrix on SSh is wrong.

That sounds like it is working correctly. The lit pop(s) rotate as they are triggered.