(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!

By E_N_3

10 years ago


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  • 4,485 posts
  • 320 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by Pinkitten
  • Topic is favorited by 150 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

6 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #19 Center Ramp Switch Upgrade thread Posted by silver_spinner (10 years ago)

Post #50 Side rail nail removal Posted by toyotaboy (10 years ago)

Post #54 Free Play cards Posted by beatmaster (10 years ago)

Post #391 Backbox Display - Sticker Template Posted by toyotaboy (9 years ago)

Post #2362 DIY Glare Guard Posted by MurphyPeoples (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#125 10 years ago

I can verify there where at least two SS backbox designs. One is larger at the bottom as seen in picture with artwork changed to fit. I've owned two of these bigger backbox type so far. Ser#22250 & 22187. So these were only 63 apart which makes me think they made at least 63 of this type. Also this is an early serial number. Most SS games start in the 30,000 range.eser.JPGeser.JPGcside.JPGcside.JPGbside.JPGbside.JPG

9 months later
#605 9 years ago

7) The 3-drop target bank does not reset. It had this problem before, so I inspected and thoroughly cleaned the unit, and it feels much smoother by hand. The coil does fire, but does not push the targets up. The coil seemed OK during the rebuild (sleeve was not binding but I replaced it anyway, coil not scorched, etc).
----In my experience drop targets don't always go up in test mode but work fine in game mode.

8] Bell does not work at all. And something about it just doesn't seem right to me, I can't understand how it would work as currently configured. Seems the striker's spring tension is a bit much against that tiny little coil, and it pushes the switch normally closed so how would it ever be triggered in the first place? Can anyone share a photo of theirs?
----In my experience I had to sand the closed switch and sometimes bend it tighter to work.

9) Still seem to hear a bit of high-pitched static in the backbox speaker, which changes depending on the # of pf lamps illuminated.
--seems kinda normal but make sure all boards are screwed tight in back box

abell.jpgabell.jpg
3 years later
#1680 6 years ago

Tm decal is original

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4 years later
#3788 2 years ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

I’m getting back on my Space Shuttle project, none of the flasher are working, where should I direct my attention?

Make sure all flash bulbs are good. Check flash in test mode.

1 year later
#4191 1 year ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Was looking into doing a full restoration on my shuttle. Going to repaint the cabinet a nice metallic blue. However I don’t see anyone selling drop targets for either the 3 bank or single target. Can anyone point me into the right direction?
Thank you.

Any reason to replace yours? All you really see is the decal applied. I don’t think I’ve ever had one break.

9 months later
#4366 5 months ago
Quoted from jcar302:

Hey guys, it's getting close to time to refurb my beater space shuttle.
It's played for years flawlessly with 50%+ wood showing and just an insert decal set, lol.
Going to do a hard top.
Is there anywhere to get the plastics for less than $169?
Anyone have a post count? Looks like there are a few hidden.

31

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#4370 5 months ago
Quoted from Iamthelaw:

Anyone have a spare shuttle w switch and gate for sale?

I recommend contacting M&M creations. They have magnet switches that can stick under ramp to detect the ball. No gate needed.

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1 week later
#4372 4 months ago
Quoted from Kramertheman:

New Space Shuttle toy.
I just bought a new Space Shuttle toy to replace the beat up one on my Space Shuttle pinball machine. I'm sure they all come from the same place. It feels much better than the original. I just have one question. There are two holes in the top in order to mount the switch assembly. There is a hole on each wing to mount the toy to the playfield plastic. There is also one hole on each side of the ship to place the sides of the ball gate in. The original toy looks like it had a rivet holding the gate onto the ship. The new toy doesn't have a hole for the rivet. Do I need to drill a hole and rivet it or is it not needed? I'd like some input before I start drilling.
Thanks
Kramertheman

no

#4376 4 months ago
Quoted from rwredmon:

I have a slightly different config on mine which I think yields 32 red posts. See edited pic. On mine, both side of the spinner are on a red post, and there is an additional red post on the left side. However on mine the very upper post by the USA lanes is a metal post with the bumper (which makes sense as this is where the launched balls go).
Randy
[quoted image]

looks right. So 34 post total.

#4379 4 months ago

I would test the switch for continuity. They almost never fail. I’m guessing it a harness or connector issue.

#4385 4 months ago

Go into switch test mode. This will eliminate a possible board switch errror. Just use a wire to jump1J8 pin2 Over to 1j10 pin9. This should activate switch 09.
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1 week later
#4388 4 months ago
Quoted from BrewersArcade:

Will try this thank you! I did replace the cherry switch for the outhole with no luck so jumpering on the board is the next phase. If it does activate the switch does that mean I have a MPU board issue?

If you see your switch #9 on the display that means the board is fine. You would need to follow the wires to the switch. It would likely be the harness connection or Molex board plug.

2 months later
#4439 58 days ago
Quoted from Ranpastrana:

Hey guys, I'm looking in to buying a ss and wanted some input. I've attached a picture. Owner is 80 years old that claimed that has been owned by the same 2 people since new.
I wanted to show you guys a partial picture of the playfield. Tge whole playfield looks like that. I just zoomed in so that you guys see details.
[quoted image]

Things to keep in mind. You can buy a new playfield for 900 and probably sell yours for 300 with a net difference of 600. Do the swap yourself and you have a collector quality space shuttle worth 5k and up. If cabinet is nice it saves you on decal or stencils. If mpu is nice it saves 450.00 for a new one. If other electronics and displays are good it saves. I would much rather have a new cpr playfield than a perfect nos original because of the yellowing and muddy colors. The new Cpr is slick, fast , and fabulous. Any game with a new playfield is easy to resale.

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2 weeks later
#4461 43 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Yep - our ramp MRS has been quite popular with Shuttle owners....it's a simple solution and easy to install....let me know if interested!
Oh, and don't forget one of these for your GNR!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/guns-n-roses-gnr-members-only/page/47#post-6586952
Matt
M&M Creations

#4462 43 days ago
Quoted from grbgemen:

I am still looking for a complete ball gate assembly and switch for the ramp exit. Anyone have a spare that they're willing to part with?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Sonic:
Yep - our ramp MRS has been quite popular with Shuttle owners....it's a simple solution and easy to install....let me know if interested!
Matt
M&M Creations

3 weeks later
#4470 22 days ago
Quoted from Dandydan1959:

Hi Everyone,
I purchased a new to me space shuttle that was in process of doing a playfield swap. It came with a new cpr playfield. Since I didn’t start this swap it’s taken me a month to finish it up but I have some experience with pins so I finally figured it out. The game hadn’t been powered up for over 5 years and there is no battery damage. I rebuilt the power supply before I booted up and checked power and the readings and ac ripple are in tolerance.
The bad news is that when I power up I don’t get a zero on the mpu board. The segments on the board are all out.
The good news is that the game displays all work, controlled lights all work and the game is in attract mode and toggles the displays and lights as it should. I can toggle the test switches and it goes into test mode and the display tests, switch tests and solenoid tests all work. No sound in sound test but I have a hum and the sound amp seems to work because I can adjust the volume control and raise and lower the sound output. Also various solenoids fire on power up and blow the 2.5 amp fuse. I disconnected the solenoids that fire at the solenoids by removing ground input and all of the other solenoids mostly driven by u4 solenoid drive work when I replaced the fuse.
When I go into test mode I can attach the solenoids that fire on startup and they function normally in test mode. I have good blanking signals to the solenoid drive circuits. And reset is working.
So, on the mpu I have checked the address and data buses and they toggle. I have checked the chip select circuits and they are working. Blanking and interrupt are all working.
I have it on a bench and using a pc power supply have the same symptoms. . I found a bad pin on the game rom and installed a new chip holder and replaced the game and sound rom.
I have swapped the cpus and no change.
One anomaly I can’t figure out is on u4 pin 40. It says it is the sound busy signal and says it is an output to u13. The pia description calls this pin a input but on the schematic it shows as an output to U13 pin 40. With a meter I have no connection from U4 pin 40 to pin 40 of u13 which is listed as CA1. I also have no signal either high or low on pin 40 of U4 testing with a logic probe. Is the schematic correct for this connection?
I have checked the inputs to U8 from U5 and they never toggle so I jumpered u62 pins to ground and the seven segment mpu display segment do light up so I know it works.
So I am a bit stuck. I ordered a rom burner from eBay to make Leon’s test EPROMs but the sp200 I bought won’t load the chip library so I am trying to figure that out too.
Should I replace U4? Should pin 40 be tied to pin 40 of u13? Btw pin 40 of u13 is low as tested on the logic probe.
Sorry for such a long rambling but this system 9 board is running me in circles. I worked on earlier machines while I was in the navy back in the early 80’s in VA beach and I’m pretty decent though I am getting older and it’s not as easy to work through schematics now as it once was.
Thanks for help or advice in advance.

SYS9 boards are expensive. Sounds like you have a clean a good board with minimal problems. Keep it up, you’ll fix it.

1 week later
#4477 12 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Got my Shuttle set up at home and nearly put up 5 mil. Having fun with this one. The code, rules and balanced scoring is great. Newly restored playfield playing like butter!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice clean look with white targets and blue rubbers. Like the white flipper rubber. Only thing I can think of to take it to the next level is changing to clear ramp.

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