(Topic ID: 75438)

Space Shuttle crew members' club - prepare for liftoff!

By E_N_3

5 years ago

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  • 2,298 posts
  • 198 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by DorkInAbox
  • Topic is favorited by 99 Pinsiders


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#2156 3 months ago

Just picked up my first SS at a show yesterday! It's a fixer upper for sure so I'm sure I'll be asking a lot of questions here in the coming months.

My first is regarding the right flipper button does not trigger the lane change feature. I did notice the ceramic disc cap at the switch was cut. Does anyone know off the top of their heads what the specs on that cap are, and is there some first spot to check for a likely culprit to the problem? Thanks!

#2158 3 months ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

At the EOS switch for the right flipper is a second switch that triggers the lane change. Check this switch, and be sure to specifically look at the diode. My diode came loose a couple times and that disrupted the lane change. Resolder, good to go.

The switch was bent so it was permanently closed. Adjusted it and now it works great. Thanks!

#2161 3 months ago

This is a general system 9 question, but what is the large 30,000uf 25vdc capacitor mounted to the floor of the back box for and how important is it to replace the 35 year old original? See photo.

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1 week later
#2168 88 days ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

Not exactly sure what it's for, but it's always good to replace old capacitors. I replaced mine with this board that replaces the capacitor and also adds 2 fuses in the 18 volt controlled lamp and 34 volt solenoid circuits to prevent possible fire hazards if the bridge rectifiers should fail.

Thanks for the link!

3 weeks later
#2194 64 days ago

Could someone please check this on their machine and report back... I noticed on my SS during gameplay when the ball is getting smacked around in the pop bumpers only the right pop bumper will cause a change in which pop bumper(s) is/are lit. Are all three bumpers supposed to do this or only the right one?

E.g. if only one bumper, say, the left one is lit, if the right bumper is triggered it will cycle the lit bumper to right so only the right one is lit, then to the bottom one, then left again. But only the right bumper being triggered causes this change. Are all three bumpers supposed to do this?

#2195 64 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Thanks man! I'll look at it when I get home but it looks like the way mine is pinned.
That said, the previous owner rewired that connector previously, and I wonder if that's the issue. I don't think so, but you tell me:[quoted image]

In your diagram that should be equal and both setups should work if everything down stream is wired properly.

#2197 64 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

That is correct; in the settings you have two choices for how the pop bumpers light:[quoted image]

Thanks for the response but that's not exactly what I'm referring to. I know the drop target bank lights more of the pop bumpers. But in a situation where, say, only ONE bumper is lit, and the ball is getting smacked around between the three pop bumpers, any time the ball hits the RIGHT pop bumper then the lit bumper changes, starting from left to right to bottom. Say initially the LEFT bumper is lit. Then the ball gets knocked around and eventually hits the RIGHT bumper. When that event happens the LEFT bumper light shuts off and the RIGHT bumper light turns on. The next time the RIGHT bumper is triggered the RIGHT bumper light goes off and the BOTTOM bumper light turns on, etc. I'm referring to a situation when only one or two (not all three) bumpers are lit.

On my machine in a situation where not all three bumpers are lit, the event that rotates which bumpers are lit/not-lit is by triggering the RIGHT pop bumper. My question is whether it is only supposed to be the RIGHT bumper, or are all three pop bumpers supposed to cause the lit/not-lit bumpers to rotate?

P.S. Danger Mouse is the bomb!

#2199 64 days ago

For future reference if anyone is ever interested, I made a phototransistor/IR opto switch to replace the lower ramp switch (the one under the shuttle toy). The switch under my shuttle was completely missing, so instead of trying to bend metal to make a mechanical switch with a mount, I decided to use an IR-LED/Phototransistor unit (about the size of a cork board pin) mounted on a piece of clear thermoplastic material that sits above the ramp. The setup is tiny and fits completely hidden under the shuttle. I used an Arduino Uno and a relay (mounted inside the cab) to control it. The code is very simple, it detects a change in the amount of light hitting the transistor when the ball rolls through, it clicks the relay for .25 seconds to simulate the switch, then delays for 3 seconds so it won't accidentally double-trigger if the ball doesn't make it all the way up the ramp (since the real switch is a one-way switch). The Adruino runs of a USB charger/cable plugged into the service outlet in the back of the cabinet. I made a custom wire harness with 6 wires to connect it all together. The whole setup cost under $20. It works flawlessly and another added bonus is that the clear plastic mount slightly raises the nose of the shuttle so it doesn't get smashed up if the ball bounces a little when it hits the ramp.

#2205 64 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

moses_1592 any pictures?

Per request, here are pictures of the opto switch mods I made. To clear up any future confusion there is no diode on the original lower ramp switch mounted in the shuttle toy (it is somewhere up/downstream). I also added pics of the GI mods I made to the shuttle toy. I added two LED's in the toy shuttle to illuminate the rockets, which are directly tied to the strobing rocket lights in the back box GI. There are some pics of my playfield as well. I used some purple and pink LED's around the lower playfield and drop target GI for effect. In the back box I used warm white LED's for the "Space shuttle" text illumination and cool white LED's for the shuttle illumination. I can provide Arduino code if needed. FYI, all the wiring and connection is on a blank shield board which plugs directly into the UNO board. This way if the UNO microcontroller ever fails I can replace it in 2 minutes. Enjoy!

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#2206 64 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Does anyone know an easy way to repin a connector when originally the wires are continuous through the IDC connector?[quoted image]

Re-pinning is a pain in the butt. Before going that route check the continuity of the whole wire (Before and past the pin). Also check the continuity to the pin itself. If all of this checks out you may want to try reflowing solder to the header pins on the CPU board. I picked up my SS a month ago, a worn out fixer-upper. The biggest issue I had was the display kept flickering out. After hours of dicking around it ended up being bad solder connections on the CPU board header pins. I was actually warned about this by someone in the parking lot at the pinball show I bought the machine at haha. I never thought this would actually be the problem, but in the end, re-flowing solder to the header pins on the CPU board fixed my problem completely.

Lastly, I understand that what I am about to suggest may be considered blaspheme, but if you want to try an "easy" fix if the above doesn't work, I discovered that if you stick a small pin on the side of the connector you can push the contact back out so it presses more firmly against the header pin. This, along with some cheap contact cleaner from Home Depot may save you hours of wire crimping. Again, take said advice with a grain of salt. This is not the 'standard-of-care' medical treatment for a geriatric pinball machine, but it has worked for me in the past.

#2215 62 days ago

Dumb question but what lights the red extra ball arrow that points up the right ramp? I know the right ramp target will randomly light the yellow extra ball light to get extra ball from the shuttle ramp, but what about the red arrow for the right ramp?

3 weeks later
#2262 39 days ago

Apologies if this has already been asked, but does anyone else notice excessive speaker hum that fluctuates with the blinking of the playfield lights during attract mode? I have eight pins, from system 6's to DE dmd's from early 90's, and space shuttle is the only one that has this issue.

If I put the game in diagnostic mode so no playfield lights are on then the noise goes away. It seems to be directly related to playfield lights blinking. Incandescent bulbs being swapped with LED's made no difference. It happens the same with the original power supply and with a brand new rottendog. I replaced the giant filter cap mounted in the back box and no change. Fiddled with the screw mounts and tightening/loosening the circuit boards in the back box with no difference whatsoever.

Does anyone here have the same issue?

I'm considering trying a separate isolated power supply for the sound board.

2 weeks later
#2279 23 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Ugh. Still fighting my right pop bumper. I'm pretty sure all that was wrong was a skirt/spoon alignment (just pressing the skirt up top, it was clear it didn't press the same way as the other two) but now, after messing around with the leafs I have zero action whatsoever on that pop. Then, looking at the board to see if something stood out, I saw this wonderful 'fix'. I don't think it's a contributing factor to this issue, but... Wow.
[quoted image]
Back on task, just how are people adjusting pop bumpers on these? No matter how I prop the playfield, I can't seem to contort myself in such a manner that I can do much of anything pop-related with any ease. It's beyond frustrating.

You can *carefully* lift the playfield all way so its pointing straight up in the air, then gently slide the back of the playfield forward just a bit and lean it against the back box. Just make sure it has several degrees tilt towards the back box and its not perfectly straight up, otherwise it could accidentally fall down. All of the wire harnesses are more than long enough to allow you to prop the playfield up like this. You'll have to first lift the playfield then slide it way out forward. You may have to stand on the side of the machine and actually lift both the front and back of the playfield to kind of scoot it into position. Its not too hard though. Then you will have direct access to the underside of the pops with nothing in the way. TAKE THE BALLS OUT FIRST!

Which transistor is that in the pic (with the hot glue around it)?

You could try lifting the playfield as described above (with balls taken out), turn the machine on and put it in diagnostic mode. Then you will be able to test the leaf switches on the pop bumper directly, measure voltage, etc.

Also test the TIP transistor that is associated with this pop. There is a small chance maybe if you shorted one of the leafs and the coil was stuck on too long it may have fried the driver transistor.

I'm not sure if this is a recommended solution but you could use very fine grit sandpaper and electrical contact cleaner and very gently cleaned the leaf contacts without bending them.

When all else fails always check continuity everywhere, even between the tip of the leaf and base of the solder lug, all the way up to the header pins on the CPU board.

Good luck!

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